First water loop, hot to the touch

Spanky24

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May 20, 2014
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4,510
Hey all,

Having a problem with my new build and water cooling temps. I'll list the issues below the relative components.

- NZXT H440 Tower
- ASUS Maximus VI Formula mobo
- i7 4770k @ 4.0 with 1.25 voltage (got unlucky, won't even stay stable at 4.2 with 1.3 voltage)
- 2 ASUS GTX 780 Poseidons in SLI (built in water blocks)
- Phobya DC12-260 Pump
- XSPC RayStorm Acetal CPU Block
- XSPC EX360 rad with Corsair SP120 fans (top mounted in push)
- XSPC EX240 rad with Corsair SP120 fans (front mounted in pull)
- 3/8 ID x 5/8 OD PrimoChill Tubing
- Corsair AF140 (rear exhaust)

This is my first water cooling build. I have a fairly solid understanding of all the components and basic procedures, but I'm completely stuck on the cause.

Water loop is:
res>pump>front rad>cpu>mobo>top rad>gpus>res using distilled water

When I fire up my rig from a previous day, my idle CPU temps are between 29-32c and GPU idles are 28-30c - slightly higher but not out of line from where I expect them to be with ambient temps around 22c. However, when I run Prime95 for about 40min, my CPU temps creep all the way up around the mid 70s. Not only does this make the tubes and fittings hot to the touch, it raises the GPU temp (at 0 load) to 33-35c. When I shut down Prime 95, the CPU takes easily an hour to come back down to original temps.

Likewise, when I run FurMark for 15min from low idle temps, my GPUs get up to 65c with hot tubes/fittings and CPU goes up as high as 78. The GPU and water loop also take about an hour to cool back down. I also noticed that the GPU/CPU come down at exactly the same rate, as if they are both decreasing with the temp of the water. I know these temps aren't terrible, but for having 600mm of rads and very little additional OCs, these temps seem a little out of line.

I spent well over an hour bleeding the system the first day, and spent another 30-45min the second day just for reassurance. I have a 3rd Corsair SP120 blow the front rad (pulling in) for additional airflow and an AF140 as a rear exhaust. The top rad and rear fan both blow very hot air when the system is stressed.. What am I doing wrong?

Thanks in advance

 
You need a more powerful pump than the Phobya DC12-260. For a dual-rad loop cooling both a CPU and a GPU you will probably want either an MCP-355 for 3/8in ID tubing, or an MCP-655 for 1/2in ID tubing. Swiftech is my go-to company for watercooling components.

The fact that it takes a long time to cool down is expected though. Water has a very high heat capacity, about five times higher than copper. This means that it takes a lot more energy to heat it up, and must dissipate much more energy to cool down.
 

Spanky24

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May 20, 2014
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4,510


Yeah I bought that pump because I initially just had the one 360 rad. I got the 240 a couple days ago because in the same senarios I was getting temps in the mid-high 80s. The water flow still seems pretty decent coming back into the res but I'll probably end up upgrading the pump. I know you can't be exact, but what type of temp difference do you think I might get from a more powerful pump? Thanks for the input!
 


Well, for reference my loop consists of a Swiftech Maelstrom 5 reservoir, Swiftech Apogee HD, Swiftech MCP-655, and a Swiftech MCR320 radiator, 1/2 inch tubing, and Koolance coolant (Ethylene-Glycol based).

My 3960x hits about 70 degrees under Intel Burn Test conditions. It takes about 15 minutes for the temperatures to equalize.

You didn't mention what thermal paste you have applied. The difference between the cheap stuff and the excellent stuff is only a few degrees at best, but some (such as Arctic Silver 5) have lengthy cure times