Power supply went out, PCI express port won't work

misterbread

Honorable
Sep 12, 2012
29
0
10,530
I upgraded my rig over the weekend to a new GPU and a new PSU, while also upgrading to an SSD. I'll give my before and after specs, highlighting what changed:

Before


  • CPU - Intel i7 3770k OC'd to 4.2 ghz
    Mobo - Asus Z77 Pro
    RAM - 8GB Corsair XMS3
    GPU - MSI Radeon 7850 2GB
    Storage - Western Digital Blue 500GB
    Storage - Seagate 2TB
    PSU - Rosewill Green Series 530W

After


  • CPU - Intel i7 3770k OC'd to 4.2 ghz
    Mobo - Asus Z77 Pro
    RAM - 8GB Corsair XMS3
    GPU - MSI GTX 780 3GB
    Storage - Western Digital Blue 500GB
    Storage - Seagate 2TB
    Storage - Crucial M500 240GB SSD
    PSU - Corsair CXM750M 750W

I installed all of the components last Thursday and did a BIOS check. Everything ran perfectly after a few tweaks with cables and whatnot. Got Windows started and checked how games ran with Steam. Everything ran flawlessly at Ultra settings and I was completely satisfied.

The next morning, Friday, I decided it was time to transfer Windows to my SSD. I backed up my C:/ drive (on my WD Blue 500GB) to my F:/ drive (Seagate 2TB). Took a while to transfer, but everything got backed up. I then got my SSD ready, formatted and all the works, and made it available. I slimmed down my C:/ drive, cloned it using EaseUS ToDo (website tutorial I was following recommended it) and transferred Windows and any other files to the new SSD.

During the transfer, and after messing with BIOS a bit, the SSD became my new C:/ drive, and I wiped my old WD Blue 500 GB drive and named it E:/

Everything still ran fine after the transfer. I was able to play Watch Dogs on Ultra and it all went great.

Saturday morning, 11:00ish, I booted up my PC as I normally would and went about my day. Forgetting I left it on idle, it went to sleep and I went to work around 4:00. Got back around midnight and pressed the power button.

Nothing. Not a fan running, no beep, no lights, nothing. Unplugged my PC from my surge protector (I know, my wife has already given me hell for that) and plugged it into the wall socket. Still nothing. Pretty sure at this point my PSU is dead.

I took my rig in to a local computer shop, Ribbit Computers in Wichita, and had them take a look at it. Uninstall the Corsair PSU, install a new Thermaltake 750W Modular PSU, test it. Boots, posts, but no video. Check connections, retry, no video. Thinking faulty GPU, test with a fresh similar GPU. No video.

So we move the GPU to the secondary PCI port and it works. My case is really tight with the new gigantic 780, so we can't test it on my current build. They have a similar rig set up near, I ask if they can test my card on that build, they hesitate but say that motherboard's already screwed, so they do it anyway. GPU works perfectly, thank God.

Get home, place my GPU in the secondary PCI port, it works, everything works fine except for a few Windows programs that needed adjusting when the PSU went out. I'm typing from my rig right now, actually.

So... Here's my final question(s).


  • My PSU went out, probably because I had it plugged into a surge protector, even though that surge protector is rated at handling 2000 Watts. If that's not the case, was it just a bad egg? Would my surge protector be the issue or was it actually the PSU? I know Corsair is infallible when it comes to their products so I was surprised it failed within 3 days.

    Would a PSU failing cause my PCI express port to fail as well? Does this mean my motherboard's at risk for further failure?

    I know my GPU, the GTX 780, is only rated to run off of a minimum of 600 watts. Is there something that could've caused it to overheat my PSU?

    The local computer guy recommended that I replace my motherboard, preferably with the exact same model, so I don't have any other issues that pop up. Is this a good idea? The Z77 is already a few years old, and the chipset's getting dated, but everything else in my system is almost as old as the motherboard. Should I consider getting a Z87 or something similar? Or not?

I'm at a loss for this weekend upgrade... I ran my Before build perfectly fine though my surge protector for the last year and a half, but in three days my new build is DOA. My PCI Express port is shot, my brand new PSU is shot, and I'm worried that I'm going to compromise the rest of my system.

TL;DR: Upgraded my system, brand new PSU is shot and PCI express ports won't work after also installing SSD.

First post to Tom's Hardware, but after lurking for a while, I know you guys know your stuff, so give me some advice!

Thank you all,

Brandan
 

neon neophyte

Splendid
BANNED
your rolled the dice and bought a cheap, borderline psu and paid the price.

consider it an expensive lesson.

yes a psu can kill pci-e slots. it can kill dimms. it can kills gpus, ram, cpus. anything.

to this day i do not understand how people feel ok spending so much on a pc then cheaping out on a psu. it happens all the time too, and i will tell you from years of being on toms. every single time a psu explodes and kills a computer, it was a cheap psu.
 

misterbread

Honorable
Sep 12, 2012
29
0
10,530


I'm glad it didn't kill more than it did, but I assumed buying the Corsair PSU that it would be okay. I've only used Corsair products as RAM before, and that never failed, so I assumed a low priced Corsair PSU would do no harm.

Speaking about cheap PSU's my Thermaltake PSU that I bought was the only PSU they had with the same wattage. Is this something I should worry about, not knowing Thermaltake? And I've only plugged in my new PSU to the wall outlet. I don't want to risk another outage.
 

neon neophyte

Splendid
BANNED
anything other than thermaltake toughpower series is generally a good idea to stay away from.

you have a high performing rig, stick to tier 2 power supplies or above.

Tier one - The highest quality and most stable PSUs available on the hardware market today. Highly recommended for any situation -

Antec -
High Current Pro - 1200 watts
High Current Platinum series
Signature series

Be Quiet Dark power pro P10 (Greater than 750 Watts)
Corsair AX / AXi series (MK1 AX series is also an excellent choice)
Enermax Revolution series (87+ and 82)
Kingwin Lazer platinum series
PC Power & cooling Silencer series (Only above 610 Watts)
Sapphire Pure series

Seasonic -
S / M12 II Bronze series
Platinum series (Fanless or not)
X series

Silverstone -
OP / DA series (power greater than 700 Watts)
ZF series (Etasis series 85 / 75 / 56)
ZM series

Seventeam ST series (greater than 600 watts, SSI, V2.91)
Ultra - X3 greater than 1000 Watts

XFX -
Black edition series
XXX series

Zippy -
SSL
GSM
PSL
HG2
HP2

Tier two class A - Excellent quality units, if not, as good as the Tier one class of units. For people who have a limited budget, but still want a reliable unit for the price -

Antec -
Earthwatts series (Only from 700 Watts and up)
High Current Gamer series
Neo HE
Truepower Trio
Truepower Quattro
Truepower New - 700 Watts only

Akasa Powergreen 80+
Coolmax GTG-750 / 850 / 1000 Watts

Cooler Master -
V series
VS series

Be Quiet -
Power zone series
Straight power E9 (Greater than 400 Watts)

Corsair -
GS series (GS600 / GS800)
HX / HX v2 series
RM series
TX / TXM series

Cougar - SX and GX 700

Enermax -
MaxRevo 1350 Watts
Platimax series (under 1250 Watts)
Triathlor (550, 650, 700)

Enhance ENP-GH
Lepa G500
NZXT Hale82 Modular (650 and 750 Watt models)

OCZ -
EliteXStream series
EvoXStream series
Fatal1ty series
GameXStream series (less than 1000 Watts, if manufactured from December 2007 or later)
ModXStream series (Again, if manufactured from December 2007 or later)
ProXStream
StealthXStream (400 Watt only)
StealthXStream MK2 (greater than 700 Watts)
ZT / ZS series (less than 1000 Watts)
ZX 850 Watts

PC Power & Cooling -
Silencer (Less than 610 Watts)
Silencer MK2 series

Rosewill -
Capstone series
Silent Night 500 Watts
Tachyon series

Seasonic -
G series
M / S12 MK1 series

Setney Golden Steel Power 850 Watts
Seventeam ST series (less than 600 Watts)
Silverstone OP / DA series (less than 700 Watts)

Superflower -
Golden green series
Golden King series
Leadex Platinum series

Supermicro / Ablecom

Thermaltake Toughpower series (greater than 600 Watts)
Thortech Thunderbolt plus (800 Watts only)
Topower Powerbird (900 Watts only)
XClio Stablepower series

XFX -
Pro series
Core series

Xigmatek -
HC Series
MC Series

Ultra -
X3 series
X-Pro series

Zalman ZM series (Less than 1000 Watts)

Tier two Class B - Lower life span or slightly lower power output than rated. These are still great units, all of which are still within standard ATX specifications -

ABS-Tagan ITZ / BZ series (less than 1000 Watts)
Antec VP series (350, 450 only)

Cooler Master -
GX series (450 Watt only)
Real power Pro (Greater than 800 Watts)

Cougar S700
Enermax -
NaXn 82+ (550 to 750 Watts)

EVGA -
Supernova NEX (greater than 750 Watts)
Supernova G2

Fractal Design Newton R3 Series

FSP -
Aurum Gold
Aurum Xilencer

Hiper -
Type M (Greater than 600 Watts)
Type R (Again, greater than 600 Watts)

Huntkey Jumper series
Kingwin Lazer gold series
Lepa B series (B650, B850 only)
Mushkin Enhanced series

NZXT -
Hale 82 series (Non modular, apart from 650 Watt model)
Hale 90 V1 / V2 series

OCZ -
Powerstream series
StealthXStream (Less than 700 Watts, if manufactured from December 2007 or older)

Silverstone Strider Element series (EF series)

Tagan -
U95
U25
U15
U22

Topower Powerbird (1100 Watts only)
XClio Greatpower series
Zalman ZM 1250 Watts

Tier three - Meets standard ATX specifications, though closer to the edges than Tier two units. These are still solid units, which still supply stable power to your system, though not ideal for serious overclocking -

Acbel Polycom series

Akasa -
Paxpower
Powerplus (Greater than 500 Watts)

AMS Mercury series

Antec -
Basiq series
Earthwatts series (greater than 700 Watts)
Neopower 480 Watt (Old model)
Truecontrol MK2
Truepower MK2 / MK3

Athena Power space shuttle series

Be Quiet -
Dark power pro (Less than 750 Watts)
Pure power L8 / Purepower L8 CM series
Straight power E9 400 Watts

Cooler master -
GX II 750 Watts
i Series 700 Watts
iGreen series
Real power pro (less than 800 Watts)
Silent pro M2 / Gold / Platinum series

Corsair -
CX / CXM series
VS series

Enermax -
CoolerGiant series
Maximum Plus series
naXn ADV 650 Watts
Noistaker MK1 / MK2 series
Triathlor / Traiathlor FC series
Whisper MK2 series

Enhance ENS-G
Epower Xscale series

EVGA -
Supernova 750 Watts
Supernova Classified 1500 Watts

Fortron / FSP Aurum 92+ 650M

Fractal Design -
Integra R2 650 / 750 Watts
Tesla R2

Kingwin -
Lazer series
Mach 1 (the negative 12v rail may go slightly outside of spec in some loading conditions)

Lepa G900

OCZ -
ModXStream (rated at 40° C)
Z series 1000 Watts

Rosewill -
Fortress Series
Hercules 1600 Watts
Hive series
RP 2 (temp. Sensitive)
Xtreme / RX series

Seasonic Super versatile series
Sigma SP series
Silversone F prefix
Sparkle FSP units
Spire Rocketeer V/VI
Rocketeer V/VI
Sunbeam Nuuo

Thermaltake -
Litepower series
Purepower RX
Toughpower <less than 600 watts

Topower 1000w Gold
XG Magnum
X-Spice Kira series
Zalman ZM 850 / 1000 watts

Tier four - Not for overclocking systems or high end gaming rigs. May not even output labeled power and fail standard ATX specifications slightly. May even use cheap components to meet a price -

Aerocool -
Strike-X series
Templarius Imperator series

Asus Atlas

Cooler Master -
GX / GX lite series (The GX 450 non-lite Watt model is fine)

E-power units

EVGA -
500B
600B

FSP Raider series
Futurepower
Hiper - Type M (Less than 600 Watts)
HIPRO
LC power
Masscool
MGE XE
Mushkin HP series
NorthQ 4775-500S / BU

NZXT -
Hale82N 650w
Hale82 V2 700w

OCZ -
GameXStream (less than 1000 Watts, if manufactured before December 2007)
GameXStream 1010 Watts (it's an 850 Watt unit in disguise)
ModXStream (if manufactured before December 2007)
Fatal1ty 2013 550 and 750 Watts
StealthXStream (If manifactured before December 2007)

Scythe Kamariki
Superflower Amazon series

Ultra -
Xfinity series
U2 X2 series (Less than 700 Watts)
XVS series

Xion Real Power series

Tier five - Replace immediately. These units are NOT recommended for any system, no matter the purpose. Reference to higher tiered models for a better and potentially money-saving unit -

A-TOP technology
Apevia
Apex (SUPERCASE/ALLIED)
Artic / Ace (They're the same company)
Aspire (Turbocase)
ATADC
Athena Power
ATRIX
Broadway Com Corp
CIT

Cooler Master -
eXtreme series
Elite series

Coolmax
Deer
Diablotek
Dynapower
Dynex
Eagletech
Enlight
Evo labs
EZ-cool
Foxconn
FSP Everest
G7
HEC / Compucase Orion
Hiper Type-R (less than 600 Watt)
Huntkey (Apart from jumper series)
iStar computer co.
In win (Despite some reputable reviews, they are known to fail quickly)
Jeantec
JPac
Just PC
Kingwin (their budget models)
Linkworld electronics
Logisys computer
Macron
MGE
MSi (just stick to their GPUs and motherboards)
NMEDIAPC
Norwood Micro/ CompUSA
NorthQ
Okia
Powercool
Powmax
Pulsepower
Q-tec
Raidmax
Rocketfish
Rosewill (their older PSUs)
SFC
Sharkoon
Shuttle
Skyhawk
Spire micro
Startech
Storm
Sumvision
Tesla

Thermaltake -
Purepower NP / RU
TR2 and TR2-RX

Trust (Stick to their peripherals)

Ultra -
X-connect series
X2 (Greater than 700 Watts)
LSP series

Wintech
Winpower
Xion
Youngbear
Zebronics