Help detecting fault on CPU

Jamchiv01

Reputable
Jun 3, 2014
8
0
4,510
Hello, my computer recently died and isn't POSTing. After looking online at similar symptoms it seemed to be the motherboard, but today i went out and got a new motherboard and its still not POSTing. I have manually tested the voltages on the power with a multi meter and they are all okay.

I removed all Ram and tested each stick on its own and removed the GFX card But still no luck, Any ideas what i can try and how to test a CPU???

Thanks, Jamie C

My Specs:

Processor: Intel i7-3770
Motherbord (New) AsRock Extreme4 z77
Graphics Card: Asus Nvidea gtx760 2GB OC Edition
RAM: 12GB RAM
SSD: 120GB Samsung
HDD: 2TB Seagate Barracuda
Cooling: Corsair h60 Liquid cooling


UPDATE: i Took apart the PSU and turned it on and heard a buzzing noise, so i removed the fan and the noise is still there. Would that stop my Motherboard POSTing.

Also i booted the computer with no processor in it and nothing happened, but when i placed the processor in it, the fans harddrives and GFX card power up but still no post. So my CPU still has Hope? ? ?
 
Solution
everything seasonic is as solid as it gets. pretty sure there is an xfx psu made by seasonic out right now for cheap. that seems to get suggested a lot around here. cant recall exactly

corsair is great, just not their cx for vs lines

gumbykid

Honorable
Jan 15, 2014
505
0
11,160
If its not posting then it's quite hard to test a CPU. The easiest way is to check for physical defects such as a bent pin or heat damage discoloration (unlikely). To figure out its your CPU you just have to make sure every other part is in working order or swap it out and see what happens.
 

Jamchiv01

Reputable
Jun 3, 2014
8
0
4,510



You think it was the PSU? lol, it is: Channel Well Technology 450W

But i checked all of the pins and got the correct voltages on each pin. example 3.37V , 5v And -12V
 

Jamchiv01

Reputable
Jun 3, 2014
8
0
4,510


well the motherboard has a onboard diagnostic system called Dr. Debug but it doesn't even turn on... which leads me to believe its the CPU as i got the motherboard today and all of the fans and hard drives + liquid cooling start up
 

Jamchiv01

Reputable
Jun 3, 2014
8
0
4,510


I tested the PSU by placing a jumper between Green and Ground and got all the correct voltages, But how do i test it under load if it doesn't boot... everyone else in my house has laptops so i cant use there's to test it

 

gumbykid

Honorable
Jan 15, 2014
505
0
11,160
CWT makes some of the high end PSUs for Corsair and Antec but they also have some shady units. I would be cautious of it, especially since it doesn't have that many Amps on many of its rails.

Anyways, it DOES seem to be the CPU. My advice is to go to a best buy, get a decent PSU (they mainly have 2-3 crappy ones but get the best one available), and swap it with yours. Test it again. If it doesn't fix anything, return the PSU (best buy doesn't charge anything and will give you your money back, which is nice).

I'm really hesitant, though, to claim your CPU is at fault. It is VERY rare for a CPU to just die, especially a high end one. I'd put it at the bottom of the list for 'most likely to fail on me components'.
 

Jamchiv01

Reputable
Jun 3, 2014
8
0
4,510


Theres no Best Buy in the UK ;( Il use amazon instead, but for £30 i can get a processor to test to see if it works. I am going to get a corsair CXM 750W soon Anyway
 

gumbykid

Honorable
Jan 15, 2014
505
0
11,160
Because you already tested your PSU, I doubt that's the issue, it's just a good test to do if its easily available. You're kind of in a pickle because you tested your most likely to fail component and it seems fine, but it wasn't a complete test. While your CPU seems to be dead however that's very rare to happen.
 

neon neophyte

Splendid
BANNED
cx line isnt great. and 750w is a lot more wattage than you need

650w quality psu would be a better way to go imo.

as for do i think the psu caused your problems. i almost always think the psu caused the problems. as stated previously, cpu is on the bottom of the list of units to just die. psu is almost always the culprit.
 

Jamchiv01

Reputable
Jun 3, 2014
8
0
4,510


Tell me about it lol, I am a Electrician by Trade (so i know power very well) and although i was getting slight fluctuations on the voltages (3.34 - 3.37) that is normal as it is an Autotransformer and lets be honest they always go bad and suck
 

Jamchiv01

Reputable
Jun 3, 2014
8
0
4,510


Well, which PSU do you recommend?
 

neon neophyte

Splendid
BANNED
everything seasonic is as solid as it gets. pretty sure there is an xfx psu made by seasonic out right now for cheap. that seems to get suggested a lot around here. cant recall exactly

corsair is great, just not their cx for vs lines
 
Solution

Jamchiv01

Reputable
Jun 3, 2014
8
0
4,510


Im pretty sure you were right about the PSU being bag, it just blew up and sparked like a MOFO and was making a buzzing noise not coming from the Fan.. lol


Thanks for your help
 

neon neophyte

Splendid
BANNED
lol it's always the damn psu.

buy quality! always buy quality! stick to tier 1 or tier 2.

Tier one - The highest quality and most stable PSUs available on the hardware market today. Highly recommended for any situation -

Antec -
High Current Pro - 1200 watts
High Current Platinum series
Signature series

Be Quiet Dark power pro P10 (Greater than 750 Watts)
Corsair AX / AXi series (MK1 AX series is also an excellent choice)
Enermax Revolution series (87+ and 82)
Kingwin Lazer platinum series
PC Power & cooling Silencer series (Only above 610 Watts)
Sapphire Pure series

Seasonic -
S / M12 II Bronze series
Platinum series (Fanless or not)
X series

Silverstone -
OP / DA series (power greater than 700 Watts)
ZF series (Etasis series 85 / 75 / 56)
ZM series

Seventeam ST series (greater than 600 watts, SSI, V2.91)
Ultra - X3 greater than 1000 Watts

XFX -
Black edition series
XXX series

Zippy -
SSL
GSM
PSL
HG2
HP2

Tier two class A - Excellent quality units, if not, as good as the Tier one class of units. For people who have a limited budget, but still want a reliable unit for the price -

Antec -
Earthwatts series (Only from 700 Watts and up)
High Current Gamer series
Neo HE
Truepower Trio
Truepower Quattro
Truepower New - 700 Watts only

Akasa Powergreen 80+
Coolmax GTG-750 / 850 / 1000 Watts

Cooler Master -
V series
VS series

Be Quiet -
Power zone series
Straight power E9 (Greater than 400 Watts)

Corsair -
GS series (GS600 / GS800)
HX / HX v2 series
RM series
TX / TXM series

Cougar - SX and GX 700

Enermax -
MaxRevo 1350 Watts
Platimax series (under 1250 Watts)
Triathlor (550, 650, 700)

Enhance ENP-GH
Lepa G500
NZXT Hale82 Modular (650 and 750 Watt models)

OCZ -
EliteXStream series
EvoXStream series
Fatal1ty series
GameXStream series (less than 1000 Watts, if manufactured from December 2007 or later)
ModXStream series (Again, if manufactured from December 2007 or later)
ProXStream
StealthXStream (400 Watt only)
StealthXStream MK2 (greater than 700 Watts)
ZT / ZS series (less than 1000 Watts)
ZX 850 Watts

PC Power & Cooling -
Silencer (Less than 610 Watts)
Silencer MK2 series

Rosewill -
Capstone series
Silent Night 500 Watts
Tachyon series

Seasonic -
G series
M / S12 MK1 series

Setney Golden Steel Power 850 Watts
Seventeam ST series (less than 600 Watts)
Silverstone OP / DA series (less than 700 Watts)

Superflower -
Golden green series
Golden King series
Leadex Platinum series

Supermicro / Ablecom

Thermaltake Toughpower series (greater than 600 Watts)
Thortech Thunderbolt plus (800 Watts only)
Topower Powerbird (900 Watts only)
XClio Stablepower series

XFX -
Pro series
Core series

Xigmatek -
HC Series
MC Series

Ultra -
X3 series
X-Pro series

Zalman ZM series (Less than 1000 Watts)

Tier two Class B - Lower life span or slightly lower power output than rated. These are still great units, all of which are still within standard ATX specifications -

ABS-Tagan ITZ / BZ series (less than 1000 Watts)
Antec VP series (350, 450 only)

Cooler Master -
GX series (450 Watt only)
Real power Pro (Greater than 800 Watts)

Cougar S700
Enermax -
NaXn 82+ (550 to 750 Watts)

EVGA -
Supernova NEX (greater than 750 Watts)
Supernova G2

Fractal Design Newton R3 Series

FSP -
Aurum Gold
Aurum Xilencer

Hiper -
Type M (Greater than 600 Watts)
Type R (Again, greater than 600 Watts)

Huntkey Jumper series
Kingwin Lazer gold series
Lepa B series (B650, B850 only)
Mushkin Enhanced series

NZXT -
Hale 82 series (Non modular, apart from 650 Watt model)
Hale 90 V1 / V2 series

OCZ -
Powerstream series
StealthXStream (Less than 700 Watts, if manufactured from December 2007 or older)

Silverstone Strider Element series (EF series)

Tagan -
U95
U25
U15
U22

Topower Powerbird (1100 Watts only)
XClio Greatpower series
Zalman ZM 1250 Watts

Tier three - Meets standard ATX specifications, though closer to the edges than Tier two units. These are still solid units, which still supply stable power to your system, though not ideal for serious overclocking -

Acbel Polycom series

Akasa -
Paxpower
Powerplus (Greater than 500 Watts)

AMS Mercury series

Antec -
Basiq series
Earthwatts series (greater than 700 Watts)
Neopower 480 Watt (Old model)
Truecontrol MK2
Truepower MK2 / MK3

Athena Power space shuttle series

Be Quiet -
Dark power pro (Less than 750 Watts)
Pure power L8 / Purepower L8 CM series
Straight power E9 400 Watts

Cooler master -
GX II 750 Watts
i Series 700 Watts
iGreen series
Real power pro (less than 800 Watts)
Silent pro M2 / Gold / Platinum series

Corsair -
CX / CXM series
VS series

Enermax -
CoolerGiant series
Maximum Plus series
naXn ADV 650 Watts
Noistaker MK1 / MK2 series
Triathlor / Traiathlor FC series
Whisper MK2 series

Enhance ENS-G
Epower Xscale series

EVGA -
Supernova 750 Watts
Supernova Classified 1500 Watts

Fortron / FSP Aurum 92+ 650M

Fractal Design -
Integra R2 650 / 750 Watts
Tesla R2

Kingwin -
Lazer series
Mach 1 (the negative 12v rail may go slightly outside of spec in some loading conditions)

Lepa G900

OCZ -
ModXStream (rated at 40° C)
Z series 1000 Watts

Rosewill -
Fortress Series
Hercules 1600 Watts
Hive series
RP 2 (temp. Sensitive)
Xtreme / RX series

Seasonic Super versatile series
Sigma SP series
Silversone F prefix
Sparkle FSP units
Spire Rocketeer V/VI
Rocketeer V/VI
Sunbeam Nuuo

Thermaltake -
Litepower series
Purepower RX
Toughpower <less than 600 watts

Topower 1000w Gold
XG Magnum
X-Spice Kira series
Zalman ZM 850 / 1000 watts

Tier four - Not for overclocking systems or high end gaming rigs. May not even output labeled power and fail standard ATX specifications slightly. May even use cheap components to meet a price -

Aerocool -
Strike-X series
Templarius Imperator series

Asus Atlas

Cooler Master -
GX / GX lite series (The GX 450 non-lite Watt model is fine)

E-power units

EVGA -
500B
600B

FSP Raider series
Futurepower
Hiper - Type M (Less than 600 Watts)
HIPRO
LC power
Masscool
MGE XE
Mushkin HP series
NorthQ 4775-500S / BU

NZXT -
Hale82N 650w
Hale82 V2 700w

OCZ -
GameXStream (less than 1000 Watts, if manufactured before December 2007)
GameXStream 1010 Watts (it's an 850 Watt unit in disguise)
ModXStream (if manufactured before December 2007)
Fatal1ty 2013 550 and 750 Watts
StealthXStream (If manifactured before December 2007)

Scythe Kamariki
Superflower Amazon series

Ultra -
Xfinity series
U2 X2 series (Less than 700 Watts)
XVS series

Xion Real Power series

Tier five - Replace immediately. These units are NOT recommended for any system, no matter the purpose. Reference to higher tiered models for a better and potentially money-saving unit -

A-TOP technology
Apevia
Apex (SUPERCASE/ALLIED)
Artic / Ace (They're the same company)
Aspire (Turbocase)
ATADC
Athena Power
ATRIX
Broadway Com Corp
CIT

Cooler Master -
eXtreme series
Elite series

Coolmax
Deer
Diablotek
Dynapower
Dynex
Eagletech
Enlight
Evo labs
EZ-cool
Foxconn
FSP Everest
G7
HEC / Compucase Orion
Hiper Type-R (less than 600 Watt)
Huntkey (Apart from jumper series)
iStar computer co.
In win (Despite some reputable reviews, they are known to fail quickly)
Jeantec
JPac
Just PC
Kingwin (their budget models)
Linkworld electronics
Logisys computer
Macron
MGE
MSi (just stick to their GPUs and motherboards)
NMEDIAPC
Norwood Micro/ CompUSA
NorthQ
Okia
Powercool
Powmax
Pulsepower
Q-tec
Raidmax
Rocketfish
Rosewill (their older PSUs)
SFC
Sharkoon
Shuttle
Skyhawk
Spire micro
Startech
Storm
Sumvision
Tesla

Thermaltake -
Purepower NP / RU
TR2 and TR2-RX

Trust (Stick to their peripherals)

Ultra -
X-connect series
X2 (Greater than 700 Watts)
LSP series

Wintech
Winpower
Xion
Youngbear
Zebronics