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How Long I Can Turn On My Desktop??

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June 7, 2014 6:50:40 AM

I am going to buy new graphic card radeon hd 7750 1gb ddr5
and i am not going to upgrade my psu
i am going to use my generic 450W psu
i wanna know that how long i can leave my desktop turn on without any problem
currently i leave my pc turn on about 24 hours and then i turn it of for 5 or 6 hours and i don't get any problem
so now with new graphic card without any branded psu how long i can turn my pc on without damage any components of my pc
My Specification Are Below
I3-3210 3.2 Ghz
4GB ram
KY-550ATX 450W psu
or if you know any good psu about 2000 INR then please suggest
Thanks In Advance

More about : long turn desktop

June 7, 2014 7:43:55 AM

i dont want to turn it on for 24/7 i only want to know that i long can i turn on
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a b U Graphics card
June 7, 2014 7:49:33 AM


with the current psu you have there are no guarantees , i cant say it will last x amount of time with x amount of use for x amount of years
if you get a psu like i suggest i would say
as long as you like :)  , 24/7 , 3 hours , 12hours , for years it will be fine
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June 7, 2014 8:31:10 AM

Tony 1 said:
I am going to buy new graphic card radeon hd 7750 1gb ddr5
and i am not going to upgrade my psu
i am going to use my generic 450W psu
i wanna know that how long i can leave my desktop turn on without any problem
currently i leave my pc turn on about 24 hours and then i turn it of for 5 or 6 hours and i don't get any problem
so now with new graphic card without any branded psu how long i can turn my pc on without damage any components of my pc
My Specification Are Below
I3-3210 3.2 Ghz
4GB ram
KY-550ATX 450W psu
or if you know any good psu about 2000 INR then please suggest
Thanks In Advance


For that system you don't need more than a good 300w. Having said that you don't need a new one even with a 450w junker (IMHO junker...but fine for a pc not even pushing 1/2 that).
https://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:A...
216w at load with and AMD chip.

Remember you have a sub 75w card there and I'm just guessing here, but I'm pretty sure Intel's 22nm at your level is lower than 32nm AMD in the above link. Your PSU probably isn't pushing 200w at load even if you have a lot of other stuff in the box.
http://www.tomshardware.com/charts/cpu-charts-2013/-38-...
Lowest chip in the charts is above yours (3220 @3.3ghz 75w).

http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2012/11/26/intel-core-...
again above your cpu. Note the power page with i5-3570K (way above you) +GTX 690 (blows your gpu watts away):
http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2012/11/26/intel-core-...
OC'ed to 5ghz still 267w (stock is 161w). You're below this. Unless you're having a problem you should be fine until you stick in something that draws quite a bit more power. GPU loaded should show another ~100w but whatever...Moving on you'll see what I mean about the 100w.

http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2012/06/13/nvidia-gefo...
690gtx review, just happens to have your card at the top.
Test System

Intel Core i5-2500K (operating at 3.3GHz – 33 x 100MHz)
Asus P8P67 motherboard (Intel P67)
2 x 2GB Corsair 1,600MHz DDR3 memory

So i5-2500K+7750+4GB is 121w loaded...Again I don't see how you'd be over 200w with a die shrink to IVY and 1/2 the cores of i5-2500k (and not running as fast). No new PSU needed for now (look at dell 300-350w basic pc's with this type of card as options). AT $33 USD I'd stay on the current PSU until you can afford something like the other poster suggested. Sure I'd like a better PSU, but you don't NEED one unless it's failing. Even the 7950 is only coming in barely over 200w with the same core.

24/7/365 is fine, just like mine assuming proper cooling this is no issue at all ;)  It is rarely asleep...LOL. But I do believe in Seasonic, and have a PC Power and Cooling who is made by then anyway. I'm pretty sure that is still the case since they got bought out by ocz.

Drop in the card and burn it in to see if you crap out. I don't believe in buying a psu that's less than $50 :)  This part is so overlooked (but you have plenty of power junk or not). So save and stick with what you have until then. I'm not arguing with the OP choice, just that you don't need one now. 12v lead is weak but I'd still run until you can buy above $50 unless you crap out with the burn in.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
$87 after rebate if you can buy from newegg. Wide though :( 

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/radeon-r7-250x-grap...
Would rather have a 250x that blows away 7750 (it's a 7770 really) as you can see.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=E...
or pick anything in there, only R7's 250, 250x, 260x etc. All about the same price as 7750 which I wouldn't buy (why vs. 250x at ~same pricing?).

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
$70 after rebate ($90 before)+free game. 640sp (avoid the 384 core models, they suck). 1000/1125mhz boost
http://www.powercolor.com/Global/products_features.asp?...
400w min and I think they're banking on a more powerful cpu here.

Good luck ;) 
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Best solution

June 7, 2014 9:35:33 AM

On second thought, you might stick to your original planned 7750 with the 12v that low...LOL Depending on what all you have drawing 12v you may not cut it since it's the old variety (most on 3.3v/5v). I still think you'd be ok with that low of a cpu, but if you don't have the money for the better psu...A 7750 shouldn't need an extra plug, which with that psu would likely require a molex to 6pin adapter also if moving on up. If my PC wasn't dead, I'd say wait a little bit until you can afford the 250x + the PSU mentioned. Even switching to a slightly lower psu brand wouldn't be bad as you're moving more current over to 12v where pc's live today (as opposed to older systems that used 3.3/5v more heavily).

http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/productdetail.aspx?c...
Radeon 7750 compatible with Inspiron 660 desktop which came with 300w (and I have a dell chat to prove that...LOL). They had a model with 220w also but I don't think that came with the 7570 you could get in the 300w.

http://en.community.dell.com/support-forums/desktop/f/3...
Dell discussion on the 300w and saying 7750 will work with this box and a 350w. AMD errors on the side of caution claiming 400w (probably attempting to cover people like you with older model psu's).

But this is the most relevant to you probably.
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c03...
HP 300w, with i7-2600 (3.4ghz/3.8 turbo quad on 32nm sandy vs your 22nm ivy) and 7570. The 7570 doesn't draw a lot less on 40nm vs. 28nm 7750. I'm pretty sure they basically offset the difference between your i3 dual core+7750. I wouldn't buy something like this, but you can see how low the OEM's will go. You should be ok with 7750. If you have issues you'll know in the burn-in very quickly and it isn't going to kill your parts (just gets unstable in this case). If so buy a PSU asap and revert to whatever you have in now and put the gpu back in as soon as you get the PSU you need. You can also lower the gpu cores speed to get buy temporarily which will bring the power down if needed until that PSU arrives. I really doubt this would be needed but just saying you can do it in catalyst drivers. I do it occasionally on hot days with the 5850 to bring down my pc room temps (on 110+ days)...LOL. I'm think I'm done proving it should work...ROFL. :) 
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June 7, 2014 6:37:32 PM

Thanks man for the efforts i completely get it what are you trying to say i am going to buy 7750 1gb ddr5 and also i am going to upgrade my PSU in about 1 month. Thanks everyone for giving efforts.
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a b U Graphics card
June 7, 2014 7:04:46 PM

you are welcome
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June 7, 2014 8:51:08 PM

Tony 1 said:
Thanks man for the efforts i completely get it what are you trying to say i am going to buy 7750 1gb ddr5 and also i am going to upgrade my PSU in about 1 month. Thanks everyone for giving efforts.


Yes, you're very welcome. I hope you can pull enough together to get a PSU as mentioned. Seasonic is a nice brand and PC P&C picked them for years for a reason and have proven they have great QC and can meet stringent requirements they asked them for (been using PCP&C for 20yrs). I used to joke you could kill someone with one of these things as they are so heavy (my old 500w was ~6lbs!). It's comic but PSU's can actually be pretty accurately judged by their weight. A vendor used to do that ages ago, but I can't remember the name. They would score in quality (voltage outputs on the rails, regulation etc) at sites like anandtech and here just like they weighed...ROFL. OH, just hit me, DIRECTRON. They did it.
http://www.directron.com/table1.html
It doesn't look like they've kept it up. I take that back, I checked a few of their new psu's and they still list the weight but just don't seem to make an updated list for comparison sake. But as an example:
http://www.directron.com/ra650.html
FSP 650 3.85lbs $73
http://www.directron.com/ea650platinum.html
Antec 650 4.4lbs. $105 -
Check out the old list above showing 500-550 watters running up to 5.45lbs! They did that with fewer cables/connectors back then too. My silencer 750 is easily over 6lbs (ship weight is 7.7lbs). Last I checked they make junk under 350w though, the real deals are above that (everyone needs a cheapo line to sell - still ok, but not BEEFY in any way). The seasonic 400w in that old list is barely under the FSP 650w I listed and the PC Power & Cooling 410w in that old list is a whopping 4.7lbs! They also aren't what they advertise but rather far above it. Like the 500w I had could push 600w peak fairly easily (they even put that on the label). My 750w is an 850w max I think.

More info than you needed to know, but this thread just brought back some memories of how I used to determine the junk just by picking up the PSU boxes at ASI/Supercom etc back then. Antec, Enermax, Seasonic always had some heft to them on mid-higher models. They all skimp on low-end stuff aimed at IGP's and no discrete (meaning 300w and down). PCP&C was a direct vendor for me back then (I was a reseller of theirs). ONE RMA in 8yrs of their PSU's! And it wasn't dead, just a little low on leads and it was for an OCing PC customer (rock solid just low), they adjusted and sent it back 2day air with an apology note saying I might want to pitch their units with a dial on/in them so my OCers could adjust it any way they wanted (they had just announced these models back then) :)  NICE SERVICE. They knew I sold OC machines a lot (step-thermodynamics before they died etc etc) so it made sense for them to comment on it.

Glad you could make sense of what I said as I was hoping to not confuse anyone. If you have an issue just dial down the core speeds in the AMD catalyst drivers and you should survive and still blow away your i3 until you get the psu (if that is what you're doing, turning off IGP and going discrete). Enjoy your new card ;) 
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