PSU / hardware issue or corrupt Windows files

Joseph DeGarmo · Jun 11, 2014

I have been having major issues with the PC rebooting and struggling to even power on. It seemed as if Windows 7 from the recovery partition was corrupt. I even had the same issue after performing an emergency upgrade to Windows 8. On top of that, I was unable to sign in to my Microsoft account in Windows. So finally, I switched back to my old PSU and the rebooting stopped. I was finally able to sign in to my Microsoft account and complete the upgrade to Windows 8.1. What worries me now is that one time, the keyboard shut itself off while Windows was locked. I replugged the USB connector and it was back on. I took the PSU that was causing problems to a computer shop to test it. The guy told me that the PSU is fine and that it could be an issue with the system memory, hard drive, or the motherboard. I will take the PC back there for hardware tests later on, but it seems like the PC is running in stable condition for now. Overheating is not an issue since my CPU temps are normal. Could this be a voltage issue with the PSU when connected to the motherboard?

i7Baby · Jun 11, 2014

Are you re-updating all the drivers after every Windows install? They get wiped with everything else.

Dark Lord of Tech · Jun 11, 2014

If your PSU is the CX600 listed in your specs it could be they aren't very good.

Joseph DeGarmo · Jun 11, 2014

I heard that the CX600 is not too bad, but can still have issues. I'm hoping that it's not a motherboard issue. Replacing the hard drive or memory should be no problem, but the motherboard is a different story. Getting a new motherboard also means getting a new CPU since X58 boards are no longer manufactured. My case is Micro ATX, so if I need to replace the board, then I would be looking at getting a Z97 micro ATX board and a Devil's Canyon CPU. I was always thinking that hyperthreading reduces CPU load in anything I throw at the CPU, thus reducing power consumption. Thus, I may be looking at getting something like this:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($339.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus Z97M-PLUS Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($134.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 Professional (32/64-bit) ($199.99 @ Best Buy)
Total: $704.95
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-06-11 23:22 EDT-0400)

I guess I could be wrong, but if a motherboard replacement is absolutely necessary, then Asus is more reliable than AsRock. Correct?

InvalidError · Jun 11, 2014

What sort of 'test' did the shop do to see if it was ok?

One of my old PSUs got damaged by a power outage last weekend - blew one of the diodes in the line input rectifier bridge. I repaired that by scavenging a bridge from another dead PSU (blown 5VSB supply primary) I had lying around. The "repaired" PSU turns on with the "paperclip test" and all voltages are ok but as soon as I put on any remotely significant load, it refuses to turn on until it has had time to warm up at no-load. Once the PSU is warmed up, it appears to work fine. I tried reflowing the solder joints across the whole PCB but got no change with that. Quite frustrating - so close to working properly again.

PSU problems can sometimes be fairly subtle.

Joseph DeGarmo · Jun 11, 2014

The PSU was tested with a voltameter.

InvalidError · Jun 12, 2014

Joseph DeGarmo :

With what sort of loads attached? Nothing? That would be a similar scenario to my sort-of-working PSU: powers-up without load but fails to power-up with an external load (20W halogen) attached unless I give it enough time to warm up first.

Also, a multimeter "test" does not tell you anything about how clean the outputs actually are. Better than nothing but it does not tell you anything beyond the most basic parameters which are a relatively small piece of the whole picture.

i7Baby · Jun 12, 2014

HWInfo will give you voltages while your pc is at work.

Joseph DeGarmo · Jun 12, 2014

So if the PSU is the issue (which likely is), what would be the best 600w PSU I could get? I will need gold or platinum certified. Money is not much of an issue, but I just don't want to get anything overpriced. My OEM motherboard cannot handle a PSU greater than 600w.

i7Baby · Jun 12, 2014

See - http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-1804779/power-supply-unit-tier-list.html eg Seasonic 620, XFX650, Antec HCG 620M

Joseph DeGarmo · Jun 12, 2014

How good is this one? I cannot find this in the tier list.

http://pcpartpicker.com/part/silverstone-power-supply-st60fesg

i7Baby · Jun 12, 2014

Its got an F in the number so its crappy (Tier 3). Try one of the ones I suggested.

Joseph DeGarmo · Jun 12, 2014

Will this work best? I'm planning on getting a Maxwell 800 series video card and those should use much less power than the 600 series.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151136&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=

i7Baby · Jun 12, 2014

Yes - its Seasonic!

It will work well with your GTX660

InvalidError · Jun 12, 2014

i7Baby :

You say "crappy" but the EggXpert list you probably pull tiers from says: "Tier 3 Brands - Power supplies fully able to meet ATX specs, although closer to the edges of the limits than higher tier units. Still solid units."

In my book, still solid units would not get called crappy. You might not be able to beat as much heck out of them but there should be nothing fundamentally wrong with them for everyday use.

That said, there often are better PSUs available at similar or cheaper prices so, while the CX may not technically be crappy, I agree it may not be the best value for money.

Joseph DeGarmo · Jun 12, 2014

i7Baby :

OK, I'll look into that one. From what I've seen, it could handle even a GTX 870.

The original 460w PSU I just reinstalled will still handle my current video card as long as I don't max out my CPU and GPU. This is only temporary until I get a new PSU. In the meantime, is there a way to cap the GPU usage to about 75% in EVGA Precision X in hardware-demanding games like Battlefield 4? I know how to run some games capped at 30 fps, so that's easy enough.

InvalidError · Jun 12, 2014

Joseph DeGarmo :

You can lower the thermal and power ceilings to force the GPU to stay in its lower-clock, lower-voltage range. This may still register as 100% usage since all GPU resources are still being used but those resources will be running at a fraction of their normal speed and power draw.

Joseph DeGarmo · Jun 12, 2014

Could I create game-specific profiles for custom clock speeds?

Joseph DeGarmo · Jun 13, 2014

I ran into an absolutely terrifying situation this morning. I tried to turn the PC on, but it would not power on. I tried the Corsair PSU and still could not get the PC to turn on. I plugged the old power supply into an older PC; that would not turn on. The Corsair PSU did power it on, though. I tried once more to power on my current PC with the old PSU...the old PSU blew out. In a state of panic, I desperately connected the Corsair PSU into this PC and finally, I got it to boot. It may have been a loose connection of the power cable. I'll try to work with this PSU for now. I will need to get a new PSU, anyway, but I'm hoping for the best with this one. But now I know that the motherboard is not dead. WHEEEEWWWW!!!

PSU / hardware issue or corrupt Windows files

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