Does my mother board support these?

I am having the Gigabyte GA-H81M-S1 motherboard does it support 8gb ddr3 ram , core i3 4130, corsair cx430w power supply, nvidia gtx 650ti boost 2gb ddr5 graphics card. And also suggest me a best cabinet for that build.
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More about mother board support
  1. Your motherboard is compatible with all of those as long as the RAM is under 1600MHz (even if it is higher it will work fine). Cases are all personal preference, good manufacturers are: Corsair, Coolermaster, NZXT, Lian Li, Antec, Fractal Design, etc. It's hard to go wrong, just read reviews and find something in your price range.
  2. Best answer
    kspraveen1996 said:
    I am having the Gigabyte GA-H81M-S1 motherboard does it support 8gb ddr3 ram , core i3 4130, corsair cx430w power supply, nvidia gtx 650 to boost 2gb ddr5 graphics card. And also suggest me a best cabinet for that build.

    2 x 1.5V DDR3 DIMM sockets supporting up to 16 GB of system memory
    * Due to a Windows 32-bit operating system limitation, when more than 4 GB of physical memory is installed, the actual memory size displayed will be less than the size of the physical memory installed.

    So yes. Worst case scenario with the memory is to disable spd and do manual setup. I always go manual with timings from the module but that's just me after years of dealing with crap SPD issues as a pc biz owner.

    As the other poster said, case is up to you and your tastes.

    Personally I'd want more on the PSU, but I see why you'd want the cheap one as it's $25 right now. However the second you try to grow you may not like it (cpu+vid card might push that 430w). You can't even put in the top cards on that psu. So severely limiting if thinking of the future. But maybe you're buying all you think you'll ever want which is OK too. I just always want room to add at least a potent card at some point, etc.
    Since you picked a corsair (I'm not saying I like or dislike them for PSU, love the memory though was a reseller) it's only another $20 and allows much more growth at 600w and another 14A on the 12v and another 5A on both 3.3/5v leads. All around much better and even if overkill now somewhat, you'll run COOL because it isn't taxed which will also make it last for years probably vs. running warmer. Both have $20 rebates so $45 vs. $25. Not a place to skimp if you have an extra $20 and I'll cut other places (say the case) that don't affect my life in the PC FIRST. Most people don't understand how important the PSU is because it doesn't display wizbang graphics, make things faster etc. It just seems like a dump piece of pc equipment to them. Not so. Without rock solid power you have issues, and without enough you have heat.

    nvidia gtx 650 ti boost 2gb cards have min PSU req of 450. While I believe you'd be fine, you can already see they are telling you to amp up your PSU.
    Nvidia specs above, 450w, I pulled up a few cards also and got the same recommendations. I would NOT do what you're doing even though as I said, you'd likely be OK for years as it is a pretty good PSU IMHO. But seeing as you're under, do you ever plan to upgrade the cpu, gpu or add a drive etc? If so go HIGHER period. I always try to shoot for under 60% load in configs and lower even better for myself or customers I know use the heck out of a pc like me (24x7 here almost 365 and loaded a lot ripping, packing, multipar, etc) and also for upgrader types obviously. Personally I strive for what I think I'll need LATER on my next upgrade and still stay ~50% loaded (or less...LOL). IE I have a PC Power & Cooling 750 silencer and it has nothing to do with my current pc but rather the 20nm $500-700 card I'm planning and a broadwell K upgrade. I thought it would be haswell+ 20nm but gpus are delayed obviously and now I'll just wait out broadwell K since they'll both hit pretty close. You're probably not over 200-250w here but still...You don't shoot for high loads for years.

    If you're dirt poor I understand your selection but if not IMHO you're making a mistake and I'm almost wanting to say not IMHO and just outright say it's a FACT. But I'm trying not to be brutal here, but rather just being honest to save you problems later speaking as a person who's been built these pretty much my whole career (more troubleshooting now and rolling out new ones etc but the principles are the same today as when I had a pc biz). People add discrete because they intend to game usually, so I can't see you completely ruling out a future gpu upgrade down the line. Gamers are on treadmills of cpu/gpu upgrades (gpu mostly, cpu every other gpu probably for most people).

    I ran into people doing the same a lot when I used to have a PC biz. I would tell people shave on the case, and I'll even work on your scrappy tinfoil box if needed just to get them to up the PSU with the cash saved from the case. Those cheapo cases usually had sharp edges inside that could cut the crap out of me, I'd shred my latex ESD gloves on them even being careful...LOL. That part is only worked on a few times maybe though, so you can live with shafting the case assuming you get the amount of drive bays you need etc. I'm talking shorting quality not features you have to have. More expensive cases are a joy to work on for a guy like me playing in them for a job but I'd rather build a great POWERed system and sucko case vs. fixing it for a user a year or two out and some blame you for building it. Well, as a PC shop I mean, or even a friend doing it for a friend I guess...LOL. I would tell you to go away if you wouldn't change psu in my old biz (politely of course but I just wouldn't do it for them due to specs). Not many walked after the discussion, as they got what I was saying and knew it wasn't about making more cash on them, just a smarter build via a shift in a few dollars.

    I sincerely hope this helps and makes sense. I can type 60wpm, but I even at that I wouldn't have typed that much about power if I didn't really feel you need a better model :) I could go deep into the weeds on power, regulation, vdroop, ripple etc but I think most already get my point and NV specs are what they are even if some don't believe my (rather stern, but polite I hope) recommendation here. IF you give a case cost for your budget and a model you like after figuring for my PSU switch (the extra $20) I might be able to tell you a choice I wouldn't mind working on when shafting the case for the difference. I've been inside nearly every brand over decades and 8yrs owning a PC biz. Rolled edges etc are nice, rubber grommets on the drives etc, but not required. With no idea about the case budget AFTER the PSU fix, and what you want in the bays etc in the case I'd be throwing darts at a board as the other poster kind of hinted.

    For anyone really wanting to know more about power here's a great place to start:

    Best point I think to avoid a pissing contest which I'm not trying to start with people here:
    "Once you figure out how much power you NEED, you still should determine how much you WANT. Opinions vary on this, and it's a good way to start an argument on the boards... but I will say this: Buy a quality PSU that will last you for many years and cover any eventuality you can reasonably predict."
    Most efficient at 40% and goes down from there. Just an observation. No question this PSU is a steal at the price of $25...LOL.
    Note the noise jumping from 18db at 20% load to 22db at 50% on your chosen 430w corsair. @80% load 25db. I don't even want to hear 22db and it depends on how close you are to your unit, if you have a silent pc already etc. Also shows most efficent again at 50% (verifying other test at 40% from hardwaresecrets which shows a bit more efficient so really does go down a bit from 40%). Another reason I like ~50% regardless of how high you can really push them. Tolerable between 50-80% but that is very subjective per person.

    I already know you can get away with the system the user is quoting above but doing so is ignoring Nvidia's gpu power recommendations. No point in dozens of posts saying you can get by. Lower load=longer life and less heat. Also lower than 60% usually means little to no noise (also huge to me, at 50% or less you may never hear the fan at all in many units). But I buy parts for no noise also while some would be drowned out by other fans etc anyway if NOT buying that way. More than enough said I guess...ROFL To each his own ;) If I didn't make a good enough point for your switch at least it is good info IMHO for anyone looking to build something. Not trying to trash your picks here, it's a good build.

    Have a good day ;)
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