Final Wiring Solution for my build?

PaladinAzumarill · Jul 13, 2014

I'm in the wiring phase of my build. Thanks to some online video tutorials, I believe all that's left to do is wire tie these, close the right side of the case up, plug in the power, power on, see if it runs, phase done.

Just to make sure that I didn't make any mistakes, this is my very first build after all so I don't want to had done all this work only to end with frying the system parts when I turn it on due to faulty wiring, I'll be posting the photos of my build, all with annotations.

The Build Itself: http://imgur.com/a/0mhwG#0
What should be focused on is the 24-pin ATX Cable and the 8-pin EPS12V Cables.
As well as the 6/8-pin PCIe Cables. Not sure if that's the right way.

Manuel Sheets with the H97 Pro4 Motherboard & the EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply: http://imgur.com/a/mz4Jx#0
The first image of this album shows what power ports I have in use in a red circle.

I'm very close to finishing my first build, please point out any errors with hookups you see.

tech-wreck · Jul 13, 2014

second picture showing the right side:
front panel audio/card reader/power wires for the drives, is there a way to feed them through the side of the drive caddy, rather than round the back against the side of the case?

the rest of the wires from the PSU up the back - start with the one with the least amount of play in it (the tightest) and cable tie it alongside the edge of the motherboard tray. then the next tightest alongside that moving toward the front of the case, and so on, until the're all neat and vertical. try to avoid coiling wires up, they could heat up.

CPU cooler fan wire - will it go around the outside of the fan and then into the mobo?

the mobo power plugs - probably tight because they're new. if you have one the right size, an eraser wedged behind the board connector will stop the board flexing too much. wrap a loop of tape around it so you can pull it out. firm, even pressure in a straight line when pushing them in.

your PSU, does it supply enough amps to feed both GPU power connectors on one wire? you may find a use for those 'spare' 4-pin molexes if not - adaptors are cheap enough.

and you should remove the +2 from the 6+2 PCIE plug, according to your manual.

PaladinAzumarill · Jul 13, 2014

tech-wreck :

Changed the placement of the HDD, SSD and Front Panel Power Cables. The HDD and SSD Power Cable is routed via the middle drive caddy, just below the actual HDD. Can't make it any tighter though... The Front Panel Power Cable is routed via the second from the bottom hole on the side of the HDD drive caddy nearest to the back of the case.

I'll try to do that after all the cables are in place.

No, tried that, the CPU Cooler's fan wire is just a bridge too short to reach the power port. Putting it to the left side would be a bad idea in my honest opinion, with the other fan and heat sinks side by side with it. So, it'll just have to be kept where it is at, unfortunately.

Didn't think of that, I'll give it a shot, but I'll pass on the tape, might be a problem in the far future if I ever have to replace the Motherboard with one that only uses a 20-pin ATX. The 8-pin EPS12V one will be the most problematic due to the awkward position of where it plugs into. If the heatsink wasn't in the way, it would make things easier, but since I just applied thermal compound to it and the CPU two weeks back, (after making sure it spreed fine) I don't want to waste that coat since I've yet to get 90% or 70% Isopropyl Alcohol to clean the paste off and reapply it, given how much trouble that was. As well as since my local area doesn't have that kind of Alcohol for sale.

I don't recall my GPU to be able to be powered via a Molex cable? also, regarding the 6+2 PCIE Plug, it should work, according to the GPU's manual here: http://imgur.com/a/mz4Jx#3
I also have the other page and yellow slip that came with the Video Card included in the album as well.

tech-wreck · Jul 14, 2014

i wasn't very clear, there - i meant wrap tape around the eraser before wedging it behind the board, when you're done, pull on the tape to remove the eraser.
the 8-pin plug - the wrong end of a pencil may be useful for reaching into the gap. or better still, a piece of wooden dowel in each hand.

the CPU fan wire, can it be looped behind the screws attaching the fan to the heatsink? (make a loop, tuck it under, not around, the screw at the top of the fan, make another loop, tuck behind bottom screw, rinse and repeat, and hold in place with tape.
or, if you're feeling brave and don't mind voiding a bit of warranty, cut the wire and resolder the plug back on, leaving just enough wire to plug/unplug it.

i think your PSU manual says to remove the +2 so you don't try and plug it in wrong, but you seem to have got it right.

i had to use a 2x molex to 6-pin PCIE adaptor as my PSU only had one 6-pin. your PSU looks a lot better quality than mine, so should be okay to run that GPU without one.

PaladinAzumarill · Jul 15, 2014

tech-wreck :

Managed to get the 8-pin plug in, after some difficulty with the wooden dowels. The edge of the plug is plush against the connector and they "clicked" when I pushed them in enough. I believe the only way to remove the plug now is to push on the release latch before pulling on it. So I don't have to worry about vibrations shaking them out of the connector while I have the PC powered on.

Tried what you said about the CPU Fan wire, can't be done, placement would be too awkward considering where the CPU itself is. No, I won't cut and resolder the wire, I don't trust myself with those kinds of tools.

As for the 24-pin ATX Plug... despite following your advice with the tape and eraser between the Motherboard and Case where the connector is, I just can't get it to lock in. No matter how many times I remove and insert with intent to lock it into place, it always stops short of being flush with the connector. Been at it for a hour before giving up. And two mishaps on my part occurred as a result:

1) Stabbed the Motherboard with one of the wooden dowels when it slipped off the 24-pin ATX plug while trying to push it in straight. At first glance, I don't THINK I caused any permanent damage, nothing looks broke or knocked loose, but what do I know about Motherboard health?

2) After giving up for the night, when I removed the eraser and tape, I noticed that parts of the tape have been "scratched" off. Like a cat got hold of it. Meaning that bits and pieces of the tape might be stuck on the back of the Motherboard itself, an area that is impossible for me to clean as it would require removing the Motherboard from the case itself, which also means removing ALL the wires, (Yes, the 8-pin and 24-pin ATX Cables included!)

So, I now fear that I might have ruined the Motherboard, rendering all my work all for nothing. Unless there is a alternate way to plug the 24-pin in, I might have to make a house call to have someone fix this massive problem, much as I hate the idea, but I'm desperate now at this point. That and my fingers are raw to the bone as hell now trying to get that damn plug in. Typing this post alone has been very painful.

Any other smart ideas or suggestions? I'm beyond stumped.

tech-wreck · Jul 15, 2014

don't panic about stabbing your motherboard, at least until the 24-pin is in.
when trying to insert it, was there a gap between the plug and socket? or was it all the way in but not latching? if the latter, check for mould flash on both latching parts - if there's wispy bits of plastic hanging off the edges they can be removed with a sharp knife or small piece of sandpaper, then it should close.

have a close look at both, tomorrow under sunlight. see if there is any foreign objects in either, and check for deformation of the plastic pins of the plug and the separators in the socket that indicates something isn't lined up right.

don't worry about the tape behind the motherboard, it won't damage anything. i assume you used electrical tape, not metallised duct tape...?

PaladinAzumarill · Jul 16, 2014

tech-wreck :

...I didnt even think of that. Fortunately, yes, it was electrical tape.

I'm more then certain that there isn't any foreign objects in either place, deformation of the plastic pins and the separators appear to be lined up right.

Not sure if it is mold flash that's keeping the 24-pin from locking in. Here's a update to the album with two images regarding the 24-pin ATX Cable and connector. http://imgur.com/a/0mhwG#15
Anything?

tech-wreck · Jul 16, 2014

hmm. have you a spare mobo and power supply? check if your new 24-pin plug fits okay in the spare mobo, and if your spare PSU plug goes in your new mobo. even if those two combinations don't work, it may have loosened the new connectors up a little, try it again.

if it still won't close fully, it could be a manufacturing error in the plug or socket but the electrical connection between them should still be okay. if you can get it to latch, that 1mm gap won't be a problem.

...how flexible are the latches themselves? can you get in with a mini screwdriver, and manipulate the latch into place while applying pressure on the plug?

ps, the second picture is a great shot - love how the light bouncing off the out-of-focus sleeving gets distorted

edit: while pushing down on the plug, do any of the wires apprear to be pushing up out the top? could be a bent pin

PaladinAzumarill · Jul 17, 2014

tech-wreck :

Don't have any other Motherboards or Power Supplies. Those two are the only ones in my possession.

Certain that there aren't any bent pins. The wires on the plug don't move up out when applying pressure onto the connector.

After examining the plug, I believe you are right about it being a manufacturing error. In fact, you might of just made a breakthrough concerning this problem. Since there isn't any excess plastic hanging around the latch connector on the Motherboard, the reasons why this oddity are as follows:

1) A manufacturing error that resulted in having the ATX 24-pin connector made too short, hence, why the plug won't go in any further. The reverse might be true instead, the 24-pin Plug from the PSU might of been made too long, resulting in why the plug isn't flush with the connector on the Motherboard.

2) A manufacturing error that resulted in the latch on the 24-pin plug might of put on too high by a cm, hence, why it won't latch into place on the connector.

Normally I would remove the plug from the Motherboard to correct this, but, unfortunately, a new problem has arise. I CAN'T get the plug out. First I couldn't push it in after a certain point, now I can't pull it out at all! Like it's been glued on! So, because of this, if I ever need to unplug it for whatever reason (upgraded Motherboard, Power Supply, replacing either), I have to call a technician to get it out, embarrassing enough. So, I'm afraid your reply to this is to be seen as a final verdict regarding this whole ordeal with the ATX 24-pin Plug and connector on the Motherboard all-together.

Here is a update to the album with two final pictures that show the space between the plug and the connector with use of a special mirror: http://imgur.com/a/0mhwG#17

If I can use my PC like this, I doubt that vibrations from the other parts will shake the 24-pin plug loose / off, since I can't even push or pull it out at all, then please say so, otherwise, your final answer on this matter please. If it's no good, just tell me out-right.

tech-wreck · Jul 17, 2014

no need to call a technician in future if you want to upgrade, it would however mean complete disassembly so the power supply and motherboard can be removed from the case while still attached by the dodgy connector. once out on the bench, you have space to work, and prise the plug out.

it's certainly usable as it is, but keep a close eye on it for the first week or so - the hot/cold cycles might cause it to come unstuck, or allow it to close and latch. if it stays where it is, a weekly check when dusting should be enough. you may lose some data if it does fall out during use, but the PSU will shut off as soon as it disconnects so the rest of your hardware should be safe.

PaladinAzumarill · Jul 18, 2014

That settles it then. Now, about the wire ties... Here's how I did it: http://imgur.com/a/0mhwG#19
Good job for a first time? However, when I put the side panel of the case back on, it was being pushed by the cables. The cables were sticking out the side by two inches or so. After laying the case down on it's left side so I could actually push and slide the panel back on into place, I got it back on. It was tight though, since I had to get pretty forceful. Will that be a problem? The panel itself and the part supporting the Motherboard aren't bulging out at all even though it must be tight in-between. Bad idea? I need to take it off again anyway so I can plug the SATA Data Cables in.

About the SATA Data Cables for the Motherboard, what ports should I plug them into? There's four of them in all (the Rosewill Card Reader / USB 2.0 / 3.0 has one, forgot to mention that). Normally I think the logical choice would be to plug them into SATA Ports 0, 1, 2 and 3. However, plunging two of those into ports 0 and 1 would put the cables directly under the Video Card's fan, a place too close for my comfort. So would plugging them into ports 2, 3, 4 and 5 instead be a good idea since it would keep the cables away from the fan completely? Or would that mess something up when booting the PC up the first and subsequent times?

tech-wreck · Jul 18, 2014

looks pretty good so far, but if you can re-route those three black cables, and spread the sleeved bundles out so they are not on top of each other, they won't protrude so much. and turn the tie-wraps so the large end is towards the inside, every millimetre helps. the sleeving adds to the bulk, but it will protect your cables if it's still tight.

if all the motherboard SATA ports are SATA-III, then i don't think it matters which ones you plug your devices into. if you have SATA-II and -III ports, check your manual for a layout diagram (or it may be printed on the board itself), to find out which is which. if you need to use the 0 and 1 ports, cables with right-angle connectors could help; otherwise, just route the cables away from the GPU fan and secure with another tie-wrap.

PaladinAzumarill · Jul 18, 2014

Re-did the wire ties as seen here: http://imgur.com/a/0mhwG#22
Can't do anymore with the three black cables, unfortunately. The HD Audio, USB 2.0 and 3.0 Cables are stretched enough as it is, and when I tried to re-route them before getting the power cables in place, they always fell short of reaching the connectors. Where they are now seems to be the only way that works effectively. Disappointingly enough...

All the SATA Ports on the Motherboard are SATA III's.

Since I can't do anymore with the CPU Cooler Fan wire in terms of routing, this will have to sit here: http://imgur.com/a/0mhwG#26
Good idea? The RAM wouldn't get hot enough to melt the wire, right?

Also did this: http://imgur.com/a/0mhwG#28
Not sure if that will make a difference though...

Edit: Say, I don't believe you gave your opinion about this: http://imgur.com/a/0mhwG#6

tech-wreck · Jul 20, 2014

good job

despite those three the side panel goes on without a fight, so call that a win.

the wire trailing across your RAM is fine, they don't get that hot under normal use.

the HDD cable touching the 24-pin bundle shouldn't cause any problems, but you could if you want use a right-angle cable to send it straight down.

and the cover on the SLI connector? if it was an ugly lump of plastic i'd say chuck it in the box with the rest of the packaging, but that one looks okay. i'd leave it, but you have to look at it every day, so it's your call.

PaladinAzumarill · Jul 20, 2014

I'll keep the rubber guard off. Am I to assume that leaving the Power Fan Wire on top of the Video Card won't be a problem while using the PC? Much like the case with the RAM and the CPU Cooler Fan wire?

tech-wreck · Jul 20, 2014

if the insulation is intact, it'll be fine, but if it's bugging you, undo it and re-tie it close to the fan so the loops sit underneath it. leave just enough un-looped to reach the mobo socket:

{fan}
|
{tied loops}-----------------------{plug}

PaladinAzumarill · Jul 21, 2014

tech-wreck :

Decided to undo and re-tie the Power Fan wire so it is not touching the Video Card, but I don't seem to understand your diagram? From what I thought you suggested how to go about re-tying the wire was to bind it tighter so that it would hover above the Video Card while pressed under the Power Fan itself while giving enough wire to reach the proper plug on the Motherboard (assuming the case is up-right as it should be for use). All that done was just go in a circle back to where I was with the wire, binded, but still resting on top of the Video Card.

So, I tried to place the looped wire behind the fan near the plug on the Motherboard, won't work due to the awkward position and difficulty trying to get a wire tie around the looped wire while holding the looped wire with the other hand while trying to move around the Heatsink. Even taking a wire tie and pre-tying it and cutting off enough to pull the tie tighter once it was on the looped wires didn't work at all. Placing the looped wires under near the I/O Shield or above the Power Fan by where the side panel for the side is to slide into place on are both a no go. Putting the looped wires between the Power Fan and the Heatsink are a obvious no-no, so it has to be the side closest to the Video Card.

Maybe if I use the electric tape to tape the looped wires to the bottom side of the Power Fan itself? (Again, assuming the case is up-right as it should be when in use.) If that is the solution, how should I do that? Precautions and warnings included.

tech-wreck · Jul 21, 2014

PaladinAzumarill :

^yeah, that's what i meant. from the picture it looked like there was a space where the tied up wire could be wedged.
the easiest way would be to measure the distance between the fan and the mobo socket, add half an inch to the measurement to allow for insertion, then unplug and remove the fan so you can work on it. mark the wire at the desired distance from the plug, a tape 'flag' will do.
if there is enough space around the fan, (i.e. not tight against the case recess next to the I/O backplate) wrap the wire loosely around the outside and tape it. if not, loop it and tape it underneath the fan. tape down the wire up to the flag and voila - just enough free wire.

when re-fitting the fan, the side with the free end of the wire sticking out should sit closest to the motherboard. or, if it's underneath, loop it so that the flag sits at the bottom-right corner of the fan (viewed from inside the case).

look for arrows on the outside of the fan denoting rotation and flow direction before taping up. usually, the side with the wires running along a frame leg to the centre is the exhaust side. a pencil mark somewhere on one side only will help you keep track of which side is which. the fan should be blowing out the back when it's up and running.

hope i have been clearer this time

PaladinAzumarill · Jul 22, 2014

This was a lot more trouble then it should have been, oddly enough: http://imgur.com/a/0mhwG#29
How's that? There is a tiny bit of tape on the edge of the bottom part of the fan, but it's hardly noticeable to be a concern. Should the tape job stay on amidst the vibrations and heat inside the case when in use?

tech-wreck · Jul 22, 2014

looks fine to me, it's out of the way and neat enough. it may collect dust and fluff, but that won't be much of a problem where it is. keep an eye on it for the first few days and press the tape back into place if it starts to peel off; as it warms up it'll get stickier, and should stay put.

PaladinAzumarill · Jul 22, 2014

That's that then. Need to see about something with the CPU Cooler and the Thermal Paste, but, other then that, it's all good! Thank you for your help!

Final Wiring Solution for my build?

Honorable

Honorable

Honorable

Honorable

Honorable

Honorable

Honorable

Honorable

Honorable

Honorable

Honorable

Honorable

Honorable

Honorable

Honorable

Honorable

Honorable

Honorable

Honorable

Honorable

Honorable

Share this page