i7 3770 Temp Issue + CM V8 cooler with Crucial Ballistix Elite
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rlakhani11
July 14, 2014 7:50:49 AM
Other relevant specs besides the title:
Casing: CM Elite 335U (soon to be replaced with CM Storm Enforcer)
CPU: 3770 (non-k) w/stock cooler
GPU: Gigabyte GTX 770 (soon to be replaced with GB GTX 780 Ti OC)
PSU: Corsair TX750 V1
Ok. So I believe some clarification is in order, to remove any ambiguities that may come to mind as to why I want to go with this particular combination.
As you can see I'm not using the unlocked CPU, but still I'm just not able to satisfy myself and get relaxed with my current temps. at all. After powerup, the BIOS starts at 39C and settles at 42C. Asus FanXpert shows the same in windows but HWMonitor, Aida64, CoreTemp and RealTemp all show the individual cores to be consistently between high-40s and mid-50s (and this is @ IDLE!!). At load/gaming etc., these 4 software show average mid-70s but I'm sure FanXpert would differ and show lower readings. GPU temp. remains in high 30s at idle but reaches as far as mid-70s while gaming. Anyway I have no clue about this contradiction between FanXpert and other monitors, but in any case if these CPU/GPU temps. really are high as per standards, then the reasons could be:
1. room temp. being around 30C (or may be very low 30s) most of the time;
2. my casing choice was probably pathetic due to not giving inside space/airflow proper consideration;
3. inappropriate airflow (single 120mm front and 2x 120mm side fans for intake; a 120mm casing stock fan for exhaust);
Now as I'm going to replace the casing very soon, I'd have the option to utilize the roof-exhaust part at the cost of side intakes.
Questions:
1. What could be the best/ideal airflow options I could apply to the new Enforcer casing?
2. With the ideal airflow (of course with you people's help), should I check the temps first before investing on a CPU cooler?
3. Must I add CM V8, would it fit alongside 4x Ballistix Elite sticks (mobo = P8H77-V LE)? This one requires someone who has experienced this situation first hand.
Thanks very much.
Casing: CM Elite 335U (soon to be replaced with CM Storm Enforcer)
CPU: 3770 (non-k) w/stock cooler
GPU: Gigabyte GTX 770 (soon to be replaced with GB GTX 780 Ti OC)
PSU: Corsair TX750 V1
Ok. So I believe some clarification is in order, to remove any ambiguities that may come to mind as to why I want to go with this particular combination.
As you can see I'm not using the unlocked CPU, but still I'm just not able to satisfy myself and get relaxed with my current temps. at all. After powerup, the BIOS starts at 39C and settles at 42C. Asus FanXpert shows the same in windows but HWMonitor, Aida64, CoreTemp and RealTemp all show the individual cores to be consistently between high-40s and mid-50s (and this is @ IDLE!!). At load/gaming etc., these 4 software show average mid-70s but I'm sure FanXpert would differ and show lower readings. GPU temp. remains in high 30s at idle but reaches as far as mid-70s while gaming. Anyway I have no clue about this contradiction between FanXpert and other monitors, but in any case if these CPU/GPU temps. really are high as per standards, then the reasons could be:
1. room temp. being around 30C (or may be very low 30s) most of the time;
2. my casing choice was probably pathetic due to not giving inside space/airflow proper consideration;
3. inappropriate airflow (single 120mm front and 2x 120mm side fans for intake; a 120mm casing stock fan for exhaust);
Now as I'm going to replace the casing very soon, I'd have the option to utilize the roof-exhaust part at the cost of side intakes.
Questions:
1. What could be the best/ideal airflow options I could apply to the new Enforcer casing?
2. With the ideal airflow (of course with you people's help), should I check the temps first before investing on a CPU cooler?
3. Must I add CM V8, would it fit alongside 4x Ballistix Elite sticks (mobo = P8H77-V LE)? This one requires someone who has experienced this situation first hand.
Thanks very much.
More about : 3770 temp issue cooler crucial ballistix elite
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Reply to rlakhani11
They are not measuring the same thing.....The Asus utilities report a "package" temperature which is a weighted average of various temps. The core temps are just that .... temps of individual cores.
Never use two utilities at the same time and they can interfere with one another.
All your temps are "normal" for the CPU on a stock cooler and also for the GPU. With a non K processor, I wouldn't invest more money in cooling.
A. The V8 isn't all that impressive. Just a degree better than a Hyper 212 for 4 times the price. I'd get a Hyper 212 which is more than enough for a non K processor. If you had a K, I'd say the Phanteks PH-TC14-PE
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
B. Again, your temps are normal. If you had a K, I'd say get something like the Enthoo Pro but with the Non k, with just the Hyper 212, you will do just fine.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
1. Air flow options are always the same:
a) Air cooled - in front, bottom and window side.... out top back and behind MoBo side
b) Water Cooled- As above but all rads should have fresh cool air blowing in and not hot case air blowing out.
2. Again, I wouldn't spend more than $25 on a Hyper 212 cooler for your loadings. Set cooler up to blow towards rear of case.
3. The 212 usually doesn't interfere with RAM, if it does, you can simply move fan to other side.
Never use two utilities at the same time and they can interfere with one another.
All your temps are "normal" for the CPU on a stock cooler and also for the GPU. With a non K processor, I wouldn't invest more money in cooling.
A. The V8 isn't all that impressive. Just a degree better than a Hyper 212 for 4 times the price. I'd get a Hyper 212 which is more than enough for a non K processor. If you had a K, I'd say the Phanteks PH-TC14-PE
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
B. Again, your temps are normal. If you had a K, I'd say get something like the Enthoo Pro but with the Non k, with just the Hyper 212, you will do just fine.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
1. Air flow options are always the same:
a) Air cooled - in front, bottom and window side.... out top back and behind MoBo side
b) Water Cooled- As above but all rads should have fresh cool air blowing in and not hot case air blowing out.
2. Again, I wouldn't spend more than $25 on a Hyper 212 cooler for your loadings. Set cooler up to blow towards rear of case.
3. The 212 usually doesn't interfere with RAM, if it does, you can simply move fan to other side.
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rlakhani11
July 15, 2014 1:38:15 AM
JackNaylorPE said:
They are not measuring the same thing.....The Asus utilities report a "package" temperature which is a weighted average of various temps. The core temps are just that .... temps of individual cores.Never use two utilities at the same time and they can interfere with one another.
I'm grateful for this invaluable info
.JackNaylorPE said:
A. The V8 isn't all that impressive. Just a degree better than a Hyper 212 for 4 times the price. I'd get a Hyper 212 which is more than enough for a non K processor.B. Again, your temps are normal. If you had a K, I'd say get something like the Enthoo Pro but with the Non k, with just the Hyper 212, you will do just fine.
What if I said I could get a slightly used V8 for around $25 or may be less?
Also, I was already planning to change the case anyway. Not only this cheap CM Elite 335U's power button sucks (sometimes have to press more than 5 times to power on; it's less than a year old), but there's also a huge problem of cable management in there. So I think it should benefit me with that as well as provide a bit better airflow. This too is available 3 months used for around $30.
JackNaylorPE said:
3. The 212 usually doesn't interfere with RAM, if it does, you can simply move fan to other side.What about V8. It looks huge!!
EDIT: I finally found the stock cooler dimensions which somehow took unexpectedly long. So V8 most definitely won't fit alongside 4x4 Ballistix Elite
Stock cooler: 95 x 95 x 60 mm (L x W x H)
V8 (huge!!!): Fan - 120 x 25 x 120 mm, Heatsink - 120 x 120 x 158mm
I'll see if I can arrange a used 212 for $25 or less. But there are several models available. Which one do you suggest my friend?
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Reply to rlakhani11
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Related resources
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The new 212's are $25 after $10 MIR
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
Don't get me wrong, the V8 has a certain aesthetic appeal .... performance is not the only desirable goal.....and will perform better than a 212.... if you can fit it.
Those dimensions you listed aren't unusually big BTW
Phanteks is 159 x 140 x 171 mm (with Dual Fans)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
Don't get me wrong, the V8 has a certain aesthetic appeal .... performance is not the only desirable goal.....and will perform better than a 212.... if you can fit it.
Those dimensions you listed aren't unusually big BTW
Phanteks is 159 x 140 x 171 mm (with Dual Fans)
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rlakhani11
July 16, 2014 9:27:32 AM
JackNaylorPE said:
Don't get me wrong, the V8 has a certain aesthetic appeal .... performance is not the only desirable goal.....and will perform better than a 212.... if you can fit it.Those dimensions you listed aren't unusually big BTW
Phanteks is 159 x 140 x 171 mm (with Dual Fans)
You're right. The V8 looks cool.
My space restrictions are due to the fact that all four RAM slots are occupied by Ballistix Elite which are tall. I've got only 95 mm of space between the corner RAM slot and "don't-know-what" on the other side. Now subtracting 37.5 mm CPU in the middle, I get only 57.5 mm. That's 28.75 mm on each side of the CPU while this V8 being 120 mm wide, will require 41.25 mm space on each side. Now I don't know whether or not the widest part of the cooler will somehow end up on top of the corner RAM stick.
Well now I'll search the market first for Hyper 212 EVO's availability.
Thanks very much mate.
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The new Noctua makes adjustments for RAM with a little cutout in the heat sink.... kinda puzzles me tho about the logic behind this if there's a fan there....the fan will have to be mounted off center
http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/cases_cooling/noctua...
http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/cases_cooling/noctua...
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rlakhani11
July 20, 2014 6:55:16 AM
JackNaylorPE said:
The new Noctua makes adjustments for RAM with a little cutout in the heat sink.... kinda puzzles me tho about the logic behind this if there's a fan there....the fan will have to be mounted off centerhttp://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/cases_cooling/noctua...
So EVO is not available anywhere here somehow. But 212+ is. Surprisingly, 212+ and V8 both cost the same, that is $30.
I found out in the last couple of days that 212+ does not sit on the CPU due to the grooves between its heatsink pipes, unlike EVO which is much better in that respect. Almost all the reviews I read have this common thing regarding the PLUS requiring a lot of hassle during the installation preparation process or something.
Questions:
1. Is 212+ really that cumbersome to install as compared to EVO, or V8 too (whose only problem is the size and weight + older technology)?
2. Is V8 a better bang/value here due to it's cost being the same as 212+?
3. Is V8 compatible with Intel Socket 1155 CPUs?
Help me guys. Thanks.
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Reply to rlakhani11
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1. The 212 comes with plastic washers that protect the MoBo, the EVO does not..... something which I now attribute to having done 3 MoBo replacements in last 2 years for users of the EVO .... over tightening the clamp mechanism can crack or warp the MoBo breaking circuit traces.
2. Depends .... the major appeal of the V8 is the bling factor, if that doesn't float ya boat,.....
http://benchmarkreviews.com/4608/cooler-master-v8-gts-1...
![]()
3. http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/cpu-air-cooler/v8/
2. Depends .... the major appeal of the V8 is the bling factor, if that doesn't float ya boat,.....
http://benchmarkreviews.com/4608/cooler-master-v8-gts-1...

3. http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/cpu-air-cooler/v8/
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Reply to JackNaylorPE
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rlakhani11
July 20, 2014 12:17:48 PM
The guy who's selling this 212+ says it's an almost new (box-packed) unit, but thermal paste is not included. If I must spend on thermal paste separately, I think I'll go with V8 on two condition:
1. It performs equally or better than 212+;
2. It fits nicely above Ballistix Elite ram sticks;
Any thoughts on how this "Be Quiet! Shadow Rock TopFlow" will fare against 212+ and V8? Is it a good option. This too is available for $30.
1. It performs equally or better than 212+;
2. It fits nicely above Ballistix Elite ram sticks;
Any thoughts on how this "Be Quiet! Shadow Rock TopFlow" will fare against 212+ and V8? Is it a good option. This too is available for $30.
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rlakhani11
July 21, 2014 12:30:05 PM
Okay so I finally purchased a 212 Plus. I hope the installation goes absent any hiccups.
Were you recommending the same thing above? Sorry about this question as I don't have any prior experience whatsoever with installing CPU coolers.
On the contrary, I read and saw ppl recommending the fan to be put towards the RAM slots side, blowing/pushing air to/through the heatsink. Plz help me here. I'll do the installation today.
JackNaylorPE said:
Set cooler up to blow towards rear of case.Were you recommending the same thing above? Sorry about this question as I don't have any prior experience whatsoever with installing CPU coolers.
JackNaylorPE said:
The 212 usually doesn't interfere with RAM, if it does, you can simply move fan to other side.On the contrary, I read and saw ppl recommending the fan to be put towards the RAM slots side, blowing/pushing air to/through the heatsink. Plz help me here. I'll do the installation today.
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Reply to rlakhani11
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1. Yes.
See 1:10 mark for proper air flow direction
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dkRJsjuvQVY
2. I can not account for what you read. Sounds like someone saying
"It wasn't a half dozen, it was only 6"
If it fits you can push air thru the cooler from the RAM side or you could turn the fan around pull air thru from the rear case side. Either way it still blows roughly the same amount of air in the same direction. Which one does better is marginal and will depend on cooler, fin spacing, fan and rpm
2000 rpm, 38mm fan - pull does little worse
![]()
1350 rpm, 25 mm fan - push does little worse
![]()
So if that example holds, 90% of the time you will be slightly better in pull and 10% of the time you will be slightly better in push .... either way you talking a max range of 1C
See 1:10 mark for proper air flow direction
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dkRJsjuvQVY
2. I can not account for what you read. Sounds like someone saying
"It wasn't a half dozen, it was only 6"
If it fits you can push air thru the cooler from the RAM side or you could turn the fan around pull air thru from the rear case side. Either way it still blows roughly the same amount of air in the same direction. Which one does better is marginal and will depend on cooler, fin spacing, fan and rpm
2000 rpm, 38mm fan - pull does little worse

1350 rpm, 25 mm fan - push does little worse

So if that example holds, 90% of the time you will be slightly better in pull and 10% of the time you will be slightly better in push .... either way you talking a max range of 1C
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rlakhani11
July 21, 2014 7:28:03 PM
JackNaylorPE said:
I can not account for what you read. Sounds like someone saying"It wasn't a half dozen, it was only 6"
If it fits you can push air thru the cooler from the RAM side or you could turn the fan around pull air thru from the rear case side. Either way it still blows roughly the same amount of air in the same direction. Which one does better is marginal and will depend on cooler, fin spacing, fan and rpm
So if that example holds, 90% of the time you will be slightly better in pull and 10% of the time you will be slightly better in push .... either way you talking a max range of 1C
First of all, I messed up my last post pretty bad.
What I meant to say, followed by asking for your suggestion, was that ppl recommended "pushing" air through the sink either by putting the fan on RAMs' side or casing rear, and if you referred to this same "push" method (your very first post in this thread) when you mentioned that I could put the fan on either side.
What I really meant to ask in the previous post was whether to use "push", "pull" or both (by using two fans; either air direction).
Now what you're recommending is that using a standard 120x120x25 mm fan, I should apply the "pull" method for maximum efficiency (or push/pull with 2x fans). Don't tell me that I got you wrong plz
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Reply to rlakhani11
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Best solution
The 212+ comes with one fan ..... if you didn't buy a 2nd fan, the discussion is moot. If you buy a 2nd PWM fan, do you have a 2nd CPU header to control it ? A CPU header NOT a chassis header. If not you will need a PWM splitter cable
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23966/cab-1959/_EK_PW...
I would suggest installing what you have ordered and then once you see :
a) How much room you have
b) What your temps are
c) If you have another CPU header, you will be in a better position to judge if you need it.
Either direction should not be on the table, air flow should be as per the video in previous post
There is no universal answer.....push is better in some instances / pull is better in others ..... from previous post
Now if you read that carefully, you should conclude:
1. "marginal" - Which one you use will not make a whole helluva lotta difference.
2. "will depend on cooler, fin spacing, fan and rpm" = change any one of those things and the answer can change.
See No. 1 above
http://martinsliquidlab.petrastech.com/Radiator-Fan-Ori...
So your speed varies from 600 to 2000 ..... are you gonna shut down the computer and switch them when it goes above 1700 rpm ? If not then pick what works best 90% of the time and go with it. or go the other way..... the differences are so small you won't be able to perceive the difference.
As for push / pull..... the advantage of 2 fans can range from 10 - 30%. On radiators, we see a difference of 21% on average .... it will be less on air coolers. If ya wanna see more, look at some cooler reviews.
here you can see that going from 2 fans to 3 gains 0.25C (51.0 => 50.75) and going from 1 to 2 fans took him 1C from 52.75 to 51.75
http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/phanteks_ph_tc14pe...
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23966/cab-1959/_EK_PW...
I would suggest installing what you have ordered and then once you see :
a) How much room you have
b) What your temps are
c) If you have another CPU header, you will be in a better position to judge if you need it.
Either direction should not be on the table, air flow should be as per the video in previous post
There is no universal answer.....push is better in some instances / pull is better in others ..... from previous post
Quote:
Which one does better is marginal and will depend on cooler, fin spacing, fan and rpmNow if you read that carefully, you should conclude:
1. "marginal" - Which one you use will not make a whole helluva lotta difference.
2. "will depend on cooler, fin spacing, fan and rpm" = change any one of those things and the answer can change.
Quote:
Either way it still blows roughly the same amount of air in the same direction.See No. 1 above
http://martinsliquidlab.petrastech.com/Radiator-Fan-Ori...
Quote:
Push Vs Pull - This depends on fan speed/power. The high speed fans at 2000RPM with a 38mm fan thickness provided the best performance in a push condition. The slow speed fans with 1350RPM with a 25mm fan thickness provided the best performance in a pull condition. I would estimate that performance line is likely to cross in the 1500-1700RPM range where they are equal. So.... slow speed = pull, high speed = push, medium speed = it doesn't really matter.So your speed varies from 600 to 2000 ..... are you gonna shut down the computer and switch them when it goes above 1700 rpm ? If not then pick what works best 90% of the time and go with it. or go the other way..... the differences are so small you won't be able to perceive the difference.
As for push / pull..... the advantage of 2 fans can range from 10 - 30%. On radiators, we see a difference of 21% on average .... it will be less on air coolers. If ya wanna see more, look at some cooler reviews.
here you can see that going from 2 fans to 3 gains 0.25C (51.0 => 50.75) and going from 1 to 2 fans took him 1C from 52.75 to 51.75
http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/phanteks_ph_tc14pe...
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rlakhani11
July 26, 2014 10:45:14 AM
So I installed the Hyper 212+ along with HAF 932 case a couple of days back. And the combination of the cooler with a much better airflow has shown astonishing results I believe, considering the variables in my particular case. Let me tell you first that installing this cooler was a real PITA, especially since it was my first experience with an aftermarket one. I wasn't sure whether to do push or pull, so I just went on doing "push" regardless of the bundled 2000RPM PWM fan being 25mm thick and not 38mm as you suggested (this is what I've done: http://tinypic.com/r/2r3xt7b/8). Below are my observations using CoreTemp and HWMonitor (ambient temp being between high 20s to low/mid 30s):
Idle: 35 36 35 39 = exactly same with both software;
Prima95 Blend test (1.5 hour): 63 68 65 63 = again exactly same results in both (package temp in HWmonitor = 68C max!)
I tested by playing Watch Dogs too with ultra details and stuff, and the cpu never went above 62C!! I know this could easily have gone around high 70s previously. Comparing these temps with the ones in my very first post in this thread, you could see why I think these results are great. This also goes to show that I also got the thermal paste application right luckily
(emptied the whole damn thing during trial and error based on the diameter of the spread). The quantity was neither too small (the temps are very good) nor in excess (paste not spilling out).
So the people who think the paste is not such a great deal seem to be right to me. Of course things could improve to a certain degree if some expert, using some great paste, did the installation. But my point is that some unknown chinese brand Halnziye's HY-410 paste gave me these results.
What do you think about these results?
Idle: 35 36 35 39 = exactly same with both software;
Prima95 Blend test (1.5 hour): 63 68 65 63 = again exactly same results in both (package temp in HWmonitor = 68C max!)
I tested by playing Watch Dogs too with ultra details and stuff, and the cpu never went above 62C!! I know this could easily have gone around high 70s previously. Comparing these temps with the ones in my very first post in this thread, you could see why I think these results are great. This also goes to show that I also got the thermal paste application right luckily
(emptied the whole damn thing during trial and error based on the diameter of the spread). The quantity was neither too small (the temps are very good) nor in excess (paste not spilling out).So the people who think the paste is not such a great deal seem to be right to me. Of course things could improve to a certain degree if some expert, using some great paste, did the installation. But my point is that some unknown chinese brand Halnziye's HY-410 paste gave me these results.
What do you think about these results?
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Reply to rlakhani11
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I didn't suggest 38mm fans. When that article was written, 38mm was common on radiators. But if you read the article, you will see it addresses both. Today, 25mm fans have gotten much better most especially the 140mm ones.
Yes, the 212 is a PITA to install and it's very easy to break your MoBo with it.... but hey, whaddya expect for $25
The pic shows that the fan is blowing up rather than towards the rear of the case.... that will cost you about 1-2C.
As for what is a big deal, it depends on your criteria.... The TIM choice might mean the difference between a 4.5 Ghz OC and a 4.6 GHz OC as it can mean a 4.5 C difference in performance. If you're not OC'ing, then the TIM won't matter and you don't generally need an aftermarket cooler.
Yes, the 212 is a PITA to install and it's very easy to break your MoBo with it.... but hey, whaddya expect for $25
The pic shows that the fan is blowing up rather than towards the rear of the case.... that will cost you about 1-2C.
As for what is a big deal, it depends on your criteria.... The TIM choice might mean the difference between a 4.5 Ghz OC and a 4.6 GHz OC as it can mean a 4.5 C difference in performance. If you're not OC'ing, then the TIM won't matter and you don't generally need an aftermarket cooler.
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rlakhani11
July 26, 2014 9:52:24 PM
JackNaylorPE said:
Yes, the 212 is a PITA to install and it's very easy to break your MoBo with it.... but hey, whaddya expect for $25
As for what is a big deal, it depends on your criteria.... The TIM choice might mean the difference between a 4.5 Ghz OC and a 4.6 GHz OC as it can mean a 4.5 C difference in performance. If you're not OC'ing, then the TIM won't matter and you don't generally need an aftermarket cooler.
So if I didn't break my mobo then it was a job well done, at least for someone who did this sort of thing for the very first time (pats himself on the back
).About TIM and aftermarket cooler, you're absolutely right. But all I want is to increase the cpu's life as I'm not planning to replace it for a long time. It should remain useful for gaming for some years from now I believe. If it kept running in high 70s at load, I couldn't have been at peace. The painful installation of 212+ has paid off a good deal I think.
So, I thank you very much once again my friend. I really appreciate that you shared your huge pile of knowledge on the matter with me.
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rlakhani11
July 27, 2014 10:45:02 AM
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