Building a Quiet Gaming PC, Some Airflow Questions

AndyBirch

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Jul 23, 2014
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Hi there,

I'm building my first PC, almost entirely for gaming either from disc or Steam.

In terms of priorities, the machine being as quiet as possible is the priority (I've got tinnitus so loud, high-pitched whining from any source is a problem) followed by the graphics being as good as possible to work on a high-end Panasonic 60-inch plasma TV - ie. 1080p/60FPS/Ultra Settings.

Then there's performance, I'm mostly playing single player games but will likely use quite a few mods where possible.

Finally there's cost - I know that to get the kind of machine I wanted that wouldn't require upgrading for sometime yet it would probably sit at around 2.5-3K total so I've budgeted for it.

It will essentially be a games machine though, not really used for anything else. There's also no plans for over clocking it for now, maybe down the line, and I went with more powerful components as a result so I don't need to "push" them and thus hopefully keep them naturally quieter and cooler in the final build.

It took a lot of digging to find the best performing quiet components I could. I'm also going for a black/white with silver and gold highlights color scheme on the case inside. Right now here's the build, it'll be operating in a high-ceiling shaded room without AC (only a ceiling fan) with wooden floors - temps ranging from 18-33C (64-91F) over the year:

Intel Core i7 4790K 4.0GHz CPU
NZXT H440 Mid-Tower White Case
Corsair RM-1000 PSU
ASUS Z97-Deluxe Motherboard
Samsung 840 EVO 500Gb Solid State Drive
Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB (2x8Gb) DDR3-1600 RAM
MSI GeForce GTX 780 Ti Gaming 3Gb Graphics Card
Corsair Hydro Series H110 280mm CPU Cooler
5 x Aerocool DS Fan 140mm White LED Fan
Corsair Gen2 White Sleeved Modular Cable Kit

My main questions are regarding the fans/cooler placement and airflow. All the DS fans run at 1200rpm standard, but can be swapped with a lower voltage 700rpm cord for even quieter (but not as effective) performance.

As I said I'm deliberately not overclocking so I didn't have to get the higher RPM fans with their louder noise, but 700RPM sounds too low to be effective as a fan so I'm sticking with the standard 1200RPM on all of them.

I was always told it was better to have more exhaust than intake so the plan is for the 2x140mm top fans and 1x140mm rear fans to be exhaust, and the 2x140mm front fans to be intake. So:

1. Where would be the best place to fit the H110 cooler - the top or the front? I'm thinking it's the top, but do H110s work with exhaust fans only?

2. If I do put it at the top, would a push/pull configuration with fans on either side of the radiator make a difference (or even fit)?

3. Is there any rule regarding amount of air inflow/exhaust? The current config is 129.6CFM intake/194.4CFM exhaust - would it be better to swap one or two of the rear exhaust fan intakes to the quieter 700PM setting so the difference isn't as much?

4. Anyone have any general suggestions about making it quieter?
 
Solution
You can make that rig significantly cheaper at no loss to performance. A top of the line gaming rig can be had for $1500.
Also, there is no such thing as a future proof computer. Everything aside from the case, storage and PSU (the former two to a lesser extent) dont keep well, they will be outdated so quickly. Dont buy top tier performance components thinking they will last a long time, they will last just as long as mid and high range will. If you need performance now, buy high end stuff, if you want performance 3yrs down the line, buy something in 3yrs.
If you want a way to sink cash into this machine that will still be relevant, look at monitors, water-cooling and peripheral items.

1. Depends where your priorities are really (and...

grav varma

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Apr 16, 2014
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1. on the top, 2 exhaust fans
2. if you have the money a push pull is the best, if not do a push
3. no not really, its best to fill up on front intake, and 3 exhaust
4. but silent optimised fans like the corsair SP fans
 
You can make that rig significantly cheaper at no loss to performance. A top of the line gaming rig can be had for $1500.
Also, there is no such thing as a future proof computer. Everything aside from the case, storage and PSU (the former two to a lesser extent) dont keep well, they will be outdated so quickly. Dont buy top tier performance components thinking they will last a long time, they will last just as long as mid and high range will. If you need performance now, buy high end stuff, if you want performance 3yrs down the line, buy something in 3yrs.
If you want a way to sink cash into this machine that will still be relevant, look at monitors, water-cooling and peripheral items.

1. Depends where your priorities are really (and assuming the tubes are long enough). Having it exhausting air means its getting heated air from the you GPU and mobo, which impacts on CPU temp. But to have it intake fresh air means better cpu temps, but your dumping that heat inside the case for everything else.
IMO, your better off exhausting when it comes to radiators, but it will work either way.

2. It wont make that much of a difference in terms of performance. The Corsair CLC's are thin, not very high FPI (Fins Per Inch) radiators so having that additional Static Pressure (laymans terms, how hard the air is being pushed, more is better when it comes to airflow restricted usages like a rad fan) doesnt make too much of a difference.
If you go with a single layer of fans, pull is better. Not for any performance reason, but it means easy cleaning as dust builds up on exposed radiator rather than underneath a fan.

3. There are a couple schools of thought with this and its a pretty contentious topic actually. Google "Positive vs Negative case airflow" and you will find plenty on the topic.
CFM values dont really mean anything TBH. They vary from rated specs pretty wildly and typically are only representative of full speed usage.

4. Get a fan controller so you can dial in fan speeds that represent the level of noise your fine with.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811992012&cm_re=NZXT_Sentry_Mix-_-11-992-012-_-Product
 
Solution

AndyBirch

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Jul 23, 2014
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manchalk. Yeah I understand you can't future proof, it's more a case of getting the best in place now to extend the time until I have to upgrade again. The cost doesn't bother me as I want the machine's performance to be as good on Day 1 as it is on Day 600 if possible, plus I'm in Australia so PC components have a 20-30% surcharge on them anyway. If I do upgrade the next things on my list are either a second SSD, water cooling for the graphics card, or a second graphics card and a custom water cooling build.

Thanks for the tips though, you've definitely helped me with this. As I'm not overclocking the processor I think I'll go with putting the radiator on the top exhaust with the fans in a pull only configuration so there's less internal heat inside the case for the other components even if it means the processor doesn't get quite as cold as it could.

Airflow does seem to be contentious alright, lot of people arguing for positive or negative pressure inside the case.