Do I need anti-corrosive ?
Tags:
-
Overclocking
- Water Cooling
- anti-corrosive
- nickel
- POM acetal
- POM brass
- copper
- metals
- Silver
- corrosion
- brass
- acetal
Last response: in Overclocking
White Wind
July 30, 2014 6:55:36 PM
Hi guys, those are the parts / wetted metals within my loop :
- EK cpu copper - acetal wb ( dunno if the acetal is wetted )
- rad : copper and brass
- top : nickel-plated brass and POM acetal
- res : POM brass ..and caps : nickel-plated ( don't know if it's just on the outside and thus unwetted )
- fittings : brass, and one is chrome-plated ( again, don't know if the chrome is wetted or not ) and my valve is nickel-plated ( same thing again, wetted or maybe not )
- pump : don't know about it... I just can tell that it is an EK D5 PWM
- and finally silver
I'm gonna use distilled water and PrimoChill Primoflex Advanced LRT tubing if that matters ( without adding the PrimoChill additive in the distilled water ).
So do you think I'd better add an anti-corrosive additive ?
And if yes, which one would suit my loop and my needs ?
Thanks !
- EK cpu copper - acetal wb ( dunno if the acetal is wetted )
- rad : copper and brass
- top : nickel-plated brass and POM acetal
- res : POM brass ..and caps : nickel-plated ( don't know if it's just on the outside and thus unwetted )
- fittings : brass, and one is chrome-plated ( again, don't know if the chrome is wetted or not ) and my valve is nickel-plated ( same thing again, wetted or maybe not )
- pump : don't know about it... I just can tell that it is an EK D5 PWM
- and finally silver
I'm gonna use distilled water and PrimoChill Primoflex Advanced LRT tubing if that matters ( without adding the PrimoChill additive in the distilled water ).
So do you think I'd better add an anti-corrosive additive ?
And if yes, which one would suit my loop and my needs ?
Thanks !
More about : anti corrosive
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Reply to White Wind
Benzotriazole is probably the best chemical to inhibit copper corrosion.
http://www.sigmaaldrich.com/catalog/product/sial/b11400...
http://www.sigmaaldrich.com/catalog/product/sial/b11400...
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Reply to damric
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Different companies may have certain requirements to honor their warranty like Koolance with their nickle plated blocks and maybe EK, so I would check if they require anything special for their products.
I always purposely run copper water blocks as you do not need any corrosive protection with that.
@ damric, To suggest what you did do you even water cool?
I always purposely run copper water blocks as you do not need any corrosive protection with that.
@ damric, To suggest what you did do you even water cool?
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Reply to 4Ryan6
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4Ryan6 said:
Different companies may have certain requirements to honor their warranty like Koolance with their nickle plated blocks and maybe EK, so I would check if they require anything special for their products.I always purposely run copper water blocks as you do not need any corrosive protection with that.
@ damric, To suggest what you did do you even water cool?
Hah yeah it's what we use in the plant to watercool all of our PLC racks and power buses
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Reply to damric
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White Wind
August 1, 2014 7:25:35 PM
I'll go with distilled water, I may need like two liters for my loop so proprietary coolant would be too costy, especially on the long run.
As for the biocide, I'll have a piece of silver, more of a set-and-forget solution, also cheaper on the long run too.
Okay so I'm getting rid of all nickel-plated parts, and my loop will just have : copper - brass - acetal - silver.
So even if it may not be really needed, I still prefer to use an anti-corrosive.
Now there's this : http://www.aquatuning.de/water-cooling/water-additives/...
or
just add anti-freeze, like 5-10% of it for 95-90% of distilled water.
Which of the two would you recommend ?
And if anti-freeze is a good option with no drawbacks, should I look for a formula/"ingredients" in particular ?
Thanks guys
As for the biocide, I'll have a piece of silver, more of a set-and-forget solution, also cheaper on the long run too.
Okay so I'm getting rid of all nickel-plated parts, and my loop will just have : copper - brass - acetal - silver.
So even if it may not be really needed, I still prefer to use an anti-corrosive.
Now there's this : http://www.aquatuning.de/water-cooling/water-additives/...
or
just add anti-freeze, like 5-10% of it for 95-90% of distilled water.
Which of the two would you recommend ?
And if anti-freeze is a good option with no drawbacks, should I look for a formula/"ingredients" in particular ?
Thanks guys
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Reply to White Wind
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4Ryan6 said:
I always purposely run copper water blocks as you do not need any corrosive protection with that.Not to be contrary, but you better rethink that idea as clearly outlined in this article.
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/24/corrosion-explor...
And also, I've been doing copper plumbing for 15 years in upscale housing where pre-entry whole house filters are used to extend pipe life and I can tell you for a fact that regardless of whether or not you remove existing dissimilar metals from the water (ie, purified or filtered water) you will still get corrosion of the copper over time as can be seen if you enter the basement of any house that's more than five years old and look at the copper pipes.
All I'm saying is don't be to reliant on the idea that using copper is foolproof.
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Reply to darkbreeze
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darkbreeze said:
4Ryan6 said:
I always purposely run copper water blocks as you do not need any corrosive protection with that.Not to be contrary, but you better rethink that idea as clearly outlined in this article.
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/24/corrosion-explor...
And also, I've been doing copper plumbing for 15 years in upscale housing where pre-entry whole house filters are used to extend pipe life and I can tell you for a fact that regardless of whether or not you remove existing dissimilar metals from the water (ie, purified or filtered water) you will still get corrosion of the copper over time as can be seen if you enter the basement of any house that's more than five years old and look at the copper pipes.
All I'm saying is don't be to reliant on the idea that using copper is foolproof.
I read Martins article and I'm not having any issues using 100% steam distilled water, just flushed and checked my system about a month ago after it's been sealed and running close to a year?
Maybe it takes 2 years for problems to arise like Martin showed? IDK
As for myself, if I'm not having any corrosive or bacteria growth problems why use additives I don't have to?
The green monsters are usually inhibited by sunlight and none of my machine is in direct sunlight, so the water remains 100% clear, and I don't even use a silver kill coil.
It could possibly be Martin had some old chemicals in his loop that were not flushed completely out? Maybe?
As far as copper under a home, I am a carpenter and I've seen aged homes with copper piping that has corroded and that also has not corroded over time, so I think the environment that copper is in is mostly responsible for that corrosion, and it will not be the same for every home.
Copper water pipes also have a disadvantage if the acid flux used to solder the pipes together is abused as well, I am sure you are very well aware of that.
That's why it is very important to fully flush your radiators before putting them in operation, to completely remove all the manufacturing gunk even though it should have been factory done before it ever left out the door.
I personally never assume they've done a good job flushing a radiator and always do it myself, since they also used acid flux to solder it together you want to be sure all that acid is gone, and you as a plumber know that very well.
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Reply to 4Ryan6
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damric said:
^^ With water that pure you could probably get away with just a silver kill coil for a long time.I usually flush my entire system every 6 months and replace with fresh 100% pure steam distilled water, I do want to note here that it is important to read the label of the water and acquire 100% steam distilled with no additional additives.
Some companies that market steam distilled water put a lot of additives in the water that you do not want in the water.
The original earlier purposes of steam distilled water was an additive to battery acid electrolyte and to be combined with Anti-Freeze so in earlier days finding 100% steam distilled was very easy, but today with more and more sealed batteries showing up, and automotive coolants premixed, 100% pure steam distilled water is getting harder and harder to find.
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Reply to 4Ryan6
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Best solution
I would like to say, if you feel like you need this or that additive, or even a complete premixed coolant containing anti this and anti that, it's your hardware do what you want, and don't compromise what you think you need.
Or if any water block you buy has special company coolant requirements to honor their product warranty, make sure you read the fine print!
I do suggest you read up on long term use of the various solutions available, because some have actually had some really negative results like gelling in a water block and blocking off water flow completely.
Steam distilled water is the very best cooling performance wise, and every additive lessens that cooling performance, so read investigate the long term use of what you are considering and see if there has been any user problems relating to the product.
Lastly please remember reviewers get to keep the products they review, and that may very well possibly corrupt their end results, you want to be able to trust all reviewer information, but there's no better information than to test yourself, and if your results are different? Well you decide.
Or if any water block you buy has special company coolant requirements to honor their product warranty, make sure you read the fine print!
I do suggest you read up on long term use of the various solutions available, because some have actually had some really negative results like gelling in a water block and blocking off water flow completely.
Steam distilled water is the very best cooling performance wise, and every additive lessens that cooling performance, so read investigate the long term use of what you are considering and see if there has been any user problems relating to the product.
Lastly please remember reviewers get to keep the products they review, and that may very well possibly corrupt their end results, you want to be able to trust all reviewer information, but there's no better information than to test yourself, and if your results are different? Well you decide.
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Reply to 4Ryan6
Share
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Reply to zachparr2442
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zachparr2442 said:
http://www.amazon.com/PrimoChill-Performance-WaterCooli... Quote:
Designed as the ultimate OVERCLOCKERS fluid. With no fancy glycols or special chemical compounds, just PURE PERFORMANCE.Safe on all plastics, rubbers, and miscellaneous gasket materials.
Special inhibiting ingredients to prevent sludge build up like algae and galvanic corrosion**
Environmentally responsible food safe non toxic biodegradable product. Good for you, good for your PC, and good for the planet.
Formulated for high flow pumps and is not prone to mechanical sheering. # Specially formulated with excellent lubrication properties to increase pump life.
Wonder what's in it ingredient wise?
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Reply to 4Ryan6
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4Ryan6 said:
As far as copper under a home, I am a carpenter and I've seen aged homes with copper piping that has corroded and that also has not corroded over time, so I think the environment that copper is in is mostly responsible for that corrosion, and it will not be the same for every home.Copper water pipes also have a disadvantage if the acid flux used to solder the pipes together is abused as well, I am sure you are very well aware of that.
That's why it is very important to fully flush your radiators before putting them in operation, to completely remove all the manufacturing gunk even though it should have been factory done before it ever left out the door.
I personally never assume they've done a good job flushing a radiator and always do it myself, since they also used acid flux to solder it together you want to be sure all that acid is gone, and you as a plumber know that very well.
Very true. Probably only applies to inferior systems and situations where lower quality copper is used anyhow. I just needed to feel
self important by piping in with a potentially possible resultant situation, in some cases, especially if the sterility of the coolant isn't
maintained as well as you obviously do.
On a side note, not to sound like a fanboy but I'm highly appreciative of the articles and contributions you make to Tom's as I've
been building and working with computers since the Apple II GS. Not on a level equivalent to a lot of you guys, but on some level,
and it's helpful and informative to read what you post.
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Reply to darkbreeze
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darkbreeze said:
4Ryan6 said:
As far as copper under a home, I am a carpenter and I've seen aged homes with copper piping that has corroded and that also has not corroded over time, so I think the environment that copper is in is mostly responsible for that corrosion, and it will not be the same for every home.Copper water pipes also have a disadvantage if the acid flux used to solder the pipes together is abused as well, I am sure you are very well aware of that.
That's why it is very important to fully flush your radiators before putting them in operation, to completely remove all the manufacturing gunk even though it should have been factory done before it ever left out the door.
I personally never assume they've done a good job flushing a radiator and always do it myself, since they also used acid flux to solder it together you want to be sure all that acid is gone, and you as a plumber know that very well.
Very true. Probably only applies to inferior systems and situations where lower quality copper is used anyhow. I just needed to feel
self important by piping in with a potentially possible resultant situation, in some cases, especially if the sterility of the coolant isn't
maintained as well as you obviously do.
On a side note, not to sound like a fanboy but I'm highly appreciative of the articles and contributions you make to Tom's as I've
been building and working with computers since the Apple II GS. Not on a level equivalent to a lot of you guys, but on some level,
and it's helpful and informative to read what you post.
Thank You, for your kind words! Ry
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Reply to 4Ryan6
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White Wind
August 6, 2014 1:07:34 PM
Lot of good advices in this thread. Thanks guys.
So I've decided to go for Mayhems X1 Clear premixed coolant. Isn't expensive and has all it needs to keep my mind at peace ^_^ has good reviews, is a recommended product, and users seem not to be complaining about it ( haven't read about issues directly related to the X1 coolant, good thing ). So I say I'm good to go !
So I've decided to go for Mayhems X1 Clear premixed coolant. Isn't expensive and has all it needs to keep my mind at peace ^_^ has good reviews, is a recommended product, and users seem not to be complaining about it ( haven't read about issues directly related to the X1 coolant, good thing ). So I say I'm good to go !
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Reply to White Wind
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