Cooling Fans will not start anymore

MSwhip

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Apr 20, 2010
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My system consists of:

- Fractal Design Define R4
- Asus Sabertooth Z87
- Intel i5 4670K (not overclocked)
- 2 x 8GB Kingston Hyper X blu blue 1600 240 pins RAM
- OS is Windows 7 Home 64-bit
- Corsair PRO AX750 Power Supply Unit
- 3 silent Fractal fans 140mm.. 2 in the front panel(intake) one in the back (exhaust). They are controlled by a fan controller with 3 possible settings at 5, 7 and 12 volts.

the only thing that i tried to do is to add a EVGA nVidia GeForce 740 4 GB discrete Graphic Card; I seated it into the motherboard PCI Express slot. Connected a PCI-E cable into the 6 pins to the graphics card slot and the other end a 12 pin connector to the PSU.
Switched the PC on and Windows wont boot with the Graphics card connected.
I removed the card thinking that it was affecting the Windows boot. (as you see i know very little about the computer innards). Without the graphic card the PC and Windows start normally -except that there is no fan activity-

Is there any possible diagnosis that could explain why i am having this problem?

Any step by step troubleshooting to fix this situation?

Thank you for any and all contributions you may have to offer.


 
Solution
The two front panels you removed are actually a filter screen and the fan mounting frame. To remove the front panel remove both side covers, you should be able to see, or feel, inside the front edges on each side of the case. The front panel has split pegs on each side holding the front panel on. Squeeze the ends of the pegs and push them forward and the front panel should pop off. Just be aware that there are going to be a bunch of cables running from your front I/O panel to your motherboard, PSU, and fans. Either take care to note how they're all connected so you can reconnect them afterward, or just separate the front panel from the chassis just enough to reseat the fan lead connector to the front panel header, then pop the front...
The simplest explanation for the fans is you may have knocked loose the connector at the front panel. If you pull the r/side panel and follow the fan leads back to the back of the front panel, they go into an opening in the corner. The front panel fan connector will be the plug that you can see or feel just to the left of center of the opening. Poke a finger in and make sure it's firmly seated.

See if that fixes the issue. If it does, put the selector switch on 5V or 12V before we go on to addressing the GPU issue.

You said it wouldn't boot to windows with the GPU connected - did it boot to BIOS? Also, am I correct in assuming that it's just the case fans not working, or is the CPU fan non-functional also?
 

MSwhip

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Thank you volcanoscout.
Indeed, when I checked the cables from the 3 fans were not just unseated , they were totally loose. Unfortunately through that hole of 1 inch x 3/4 inch I cant fit 2 fingers to plug them. I cant even see inside; my case, a Fractal Design Refine R4. I removed front panel and 2 fan panel and cant access that small cubicle behind front panel on the right side. The right panel side is also removed. I certainly hope that thre is a way to open up that area to be able to plug. I do not see how.

Do you have any more suggestions as to how to get to the connectors?

I did not notice if it booted to the Bios or not at that time.

The CPU fan works normally.

Until I solve the fans issue i set an external fan.

When i switched the PC on and temperatures were(as per Speccy report):
CPU 42C,
Motherboard 28C
Intel SSD 23C (with the OS)
Raid 1 (2 x 500GB HDDs) 21C
HDD 2 23C
HDD 3 21C
HDD4 23C (the Seagate 5900 rpm)

After 5 hrs of PC operation temperatures were (in the same order sequence)
46C
28C
24C
23C
28C
28C
33C1 (the Seagate 5900 rpm)

As soon as I switched on the PC i also switched on an external fan pointed (right side of the case has been removed) to the drives and somewhat to the back plate of the motherboard facing the right side of the PC.

Yesterday without no exterior fan the highest temp after 5 hours was for a Seagate HDD drive 5900 rpm (the last one on today's list) Speccy read was 51C

Thank you for your help








 
The two front panels you removed are actually a filter screen and the fan mounting frame. To remove the front panel remove both side covers, you should be able to see, or feel, inside the front edges on each side of the case. The front panel has split pegs on each side holding the front panel on. Squeeze the ends of the pegs and push them forward and the front panel should pop off. Just be aware that there are going to be a bunch of cables running from your front I/O panel to your motherboard, PSU, and fans. Either take care to note how they're all connected so you can reconnect them afterward, or just separate the front panel from the chassis just enough to reseat the fan lead connector to the front panel header, then pop the front panel back on.
 
Solution

MSwhip

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Answering the last part of the quote above when i tried to install the Discrete GPU, i still had my monitor set to work connected to HDMI cord and receptacle.


 
Any success with the fan connector?

Okay, when you go to reinstall your GPU, take these steps:

1. Before you start, make sure you have an appropriate cable to connect the monitor directly to your GPU (not the I/O panel connector). The 740 should take a DVI-I, DVI-D (digital only, no sound - this is for monitors with built-in speakers, or speakers that are directly connected to it) or mini HDMI cable. According to the pictures, it should also come with a DVI-to-VGA adapter.

2. With Windows up and running, hit your Start button and type "Device Manager" into the search window and hit return. Click the little arrow next to "Display Adapters". Right click any adapters that show up and select "Disable". Then shutdown your PC and turn the PSU off and/or unplug it.

3. Install the GPU in the top PCI-E slot. That should be the long white slot just below your CPU. Make sure it's firmly seated, the lock is engaged, and the screw securing the end of the card to the case's back panel is screwed in firmly. Connect you power cables and the monitor cable. Power the PC back up.

4. Okay, this part is straight from the manual:

"When you boot up your computer for the first time after installing your new graphics card, Windows may detect a
new display device and attempt to install the drivers. If it gives you the option to cancel, please do so, otherwise
wait for Windows to complete the installation (a reboot may be necessary).
After this process has been completed, it is necessary to install the recommended drivers for your graphics card.
To begin, insert the EVGA Installation DVD/CD and allow the autorun driver installation menu to start.

(Note: If the autorun driver installation menu does not appear, it can be launched manually by clicking on the
“Computer” or “My Computer” icon, and double clicking the icon for your DVD/CD drive. After that double click on
the “autorun.exe” file.)

Once the autorun installation menu appears, select the “Install Video Drivers” button. This will start the driver
installation process.

(Note: During installation, you may be prompted by the Microsoft WHQL (Windows Hardware Quality Labs) warning,
please select the “Continue” or “Install this driver software anyway” option, as it is safe to do so.)

Once all this is complete the system may require a restart, but other than that you should be set. If you don't get anything on your monitor, restart your PC and boot into your BIOS (hit the DEL key). (If you can't get the BIOS to display, reconnect your monitor to the I/O monitor connector.) Find the display options (should be listed as "Main Display", "Display", "Display Adapter" or something like that. Look for an option like PEG, PEG/IGP - PEG stands for PCI-E Graphics and IGP is integrated graphics processor. Make sure that PEG is selected - if there's a combo like PEG/PCI or PEG/IGP, make sure the combo that starts with PEG is selected. Basically you're telling your computer in which order to search for a graphics adapter.
 

MSwhip

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to volcanoscout,

THANK YOU! Very, very much
It finally worked, I followed your instructions step by step (which gave me a lot of confidence knowing where to "touch")
Even with the front panel all the way forward it took me several tries before I found the seat and it slide in snuggly.

I am very appreciative of your efforts to put yourself in my position as someone(me) who does not know what to do.
All 3 fans: 2 in front and 1 in back panels are now working and with less noise (no noise now) than it had before and still with the 2 sides of the case removed. So when I am finally done and the sides back on it would be totally silent.
Now the temps of the storage drives is now higher than when i had the external fan so, after the graphics card MAYBE I would have to add something stronger as a 4th fan.
I have been checking Noctua 14 units. Now, as I have ran out of slots in the fan controller I would have to plug it elsewhere.
I know that the connector is fundamental, which kind of fan should I need to buy? Is 3 pin and 4 pin the same cause they are referred to for the same model as in the first one listed below:
A. Noctua NF-A14 FLX 900-1200RPM 115.5M3/H 19.2DBA 3-pin connector 140mm Fan square Frame -$23@Ncix-
4 pin Molex
B. Noctua NF-P14 FLX Ultra Silent 140 mm Fan (Brown) simple round frame $20@Amazon &Ncix
C. Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 IP67 PWM -$35@ncix- (97667)
D. NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 -$32@ncix- (97668) 3-pin onnector
E. Noctua NF-A14 Industrial PPC 3000 PWM 140mm Cooling Fan 800-3000RPM 4 Pin Molex $32@Ncix
Over 2000rpm could become noisy and also I think that for my system is an overkill although price wise is more bang for my buck than the NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 at the same $32 price.

Which one/s would you choose and why? Are they all compatible with my system in terms of "connector" availability?
Do they connect to motherboard or PSU?
As you know there are 2 slots for fans in front panel, now populated with 2x140mm Silent series from Fractal Design bringing air into the case, the back panel 140 mm also Silent from Fractal for exhaust out air from case
Then there are another 3 slots to place the 4th.one: two on the roof of the case and one on the floor of the case.
Should a 4th one become necessary, where would you place the Noctua one, in the place of one of the front one?, or as exhaust? or where?



Thank you again for taking me under your wing to help me out.


Notes:
After 2 hours of operation with me working at the keyboard, the temperatures reading from Speccy say:
- CPU oscillating between 45 and 48C in quick succession
- Motherboard: permanently at 28C (it has never changed since I remember)
- Intel 530Series SSD 240GB 29C (is this not too hot for a drive that has no mechanical move?)
- Raid 1 Volume (2 x 500GB WD Blue) 28C
- WD20Earx (green with lower rpm) 2TB 28C
- Seagate Green 5900rpm 2TB 39C
- Hitachi Desktar 1 TB 35C
- WD 1002FAEX 1 TB 42C

With the current high prices to replace HDDs I would rather extend their life span by lowering those temperatures to under 30C(if at all possible) thus the Noctua thoughts. I am even thinking to take advantage of WD's policy to replace -at no cost for me- 2 Black ones just before the 5 year warranty would be expiring. They assure me they do not refurbish their HDDs so I would be getting brand new ones with better current technology than the versions I now have.

What do you think of the temperatures?

Re-reading your detailed instructions about the Graphic Card now, 1:30 am Eastern time in here now. I will tackle the issue when fresh early morning today Wednesday.

Cheers.






 

Godto

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it is not too hot ... your is alot cooler than mine ... i have M2 SSD and they are running 37-41c

the rating for temp on SSD is 60-70c .. as long you have it under 50 then you good.

it contradict with every one though that SSD no moving part is cooler but it actually hotter and lot of laptop have problem with heat because of SSD.