Corsair h100i. It is idling at 38-40c and under load i saw it go over 90c and maybe causing black screens. HELP PLEASE!
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Last response: in CPUs
Deathly1
August 2, 2014 1:55:08 PM
OK guys here's the situation,
I recently built a new computer with the following specs:
Gigabyte Z97X-UD5H Mobo (Haven't done anything in bios but put RAM in X.M.P Mode)
I7-4790k Processor (Not overclocked)
Corsair vengence pro 2400mhz 16gb RAM
Gigabyte R9 290 GPU (Factory overclocked, other than that i did nothing)
WD black 1TB Hard Drice
Samsung EVO SSD 250gb (has my OS and a few games)
Corsair CX750M PSU
Corsair C70 vengence case
And of course the trouble making Corsair h100i Liquid cooler.
Just in case my monitor has anything to do with the issue :ASUS VG248 144HZ (Set to 144HZ)
******Note*****: I have updated everything in my system. Except maybe the monitor. The CD it came with offered some weird folders and a NVIDIA folder, however I do not have a NVIDIA card so yeah i didn't download anything.
The setup problem (In case)
So this cooler has been a major trouble maker for my computer. I watched a video online about how to install it and followed it. The only thing i didn't follow was placing the fans on top of the case. Instead I positioned it under my radiator. The fans are blowing upward into the radiator and out my case. I checked my temps through Corsair link here are the results.
IDLE: 38-40C Load: 90C!!!!!!!! (to test load all i did was a windows index test).
I haven't tried to re position the water block because I did that last week when i first installed it. I did not remove the plastic cover on the back plate, but removed the wrapping on the water block.
I did not apply any thermal compound because I read that it is manufactuer applied. From my observations the standoffs for the cooler and my motherboard don't match up. The 4 screw in holes aren't aligned properly. 1 screw hole is closer to the water block then the others. Even the other screws aren't in their "ideal" location. I set my fans to "Performance Mode".
The problem while gaming:
While I'm playing Warface at max settings AA and all and 144Hz My computer would just black screen for no reason. My sound and computer and working fine, but the screen does not detect anything in the DVI port. I think this is caused by my overheating CPU. The hottest I ever saw my GPU go was 72C while playing Warframe. It has black screened twice now first after a 4 hour gaming session and 3 hours after I restarted my computer.
Please help me guys I'm new to building computers as this is my first build and I'm really scared. I don't want to see my first build go under and scare me away from building computers forever. All help is appreciated. You have my personal thanks. ~Ephraim
I recently built a new computer with the following specs:
Gigabyte Z97X-UD5H Mobo (Haven't done anything in bios but put RAM in X.M.P Mode)
I7-4790k Processor (Not overclocked)
Corsair vengence pro 2400mhz 16gb RAM
Gigabyte R9 290 GPU (Factory overclocked, other than that i did nothing)
WD black 1TB Hard Drice
Samsung EVO SSD 250gb (has my OS and a few games)
Corsair CX750M PSU
Corsair C70 vengence case
And of course the trouble making Corsair h100i Liquid cooler.
Just in case my monitor has anything to do with the issue :ASUS VG248 144HZ (Set to 144HZ)
******Note*****: I have updated everything in my system. Except maybe the monitor. The CD it came with offered some weird folders and a NVIDIA folder, however I do not have a NVIDIA card so yeah i didn't download anything.
The setup problem (In case)
So this cooler has been a major trouble maker for my computer. I watched a video online about how to install it and followed it. The only thing i didn't follow was placing the fans on top of the case. Instead I positioned it under my radiator. The fans are blowing upward into the radiator and out my case. I checked my temps through Corsair link here are the results.
IDLE: 38-40C Load: 90C!!!!!!!! (to test load all i did was a windows index test).
I haven't tried to re position the water block because I did that last week when i first installed it. I did not remove the plastic cover on the back plate, but removed the wrapping on the water block.
I did not apply any thermal compound because I read that it is manufactuer applied. From my observations the standoffs for the cooler and my motherboard don't match up. The 4 screw in holes aren't aligned properly. 1 screw hole is closer to the water block then the others. Even the other screws aren't in their "ideal" location. I set my fans to "Performance Mode".
The problem while gaming:
While I'm playing Warface at max settings AA and all and 144Hz My computer would just black screen for no reason. My sound and computer and working fine, but the screen does not detect anything in the DVI port. I think this is caused by my overheating CPU. The hottest I ever saw my GPU go was 72C while playing Warframe. It has black screened twice now first after a 4 hour gaming session and 3 hours after I restarted my computer.
Please help me guys I'm new to building computers as this is my first build and I'm really scared. I don't want to see my first build go under and scare me away from building computers forever. All help is appreciated. You have my personal thanks. ~Ephraim
More about : corsair h100i idling 40c load 90c causing black screens
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Reply to Deathly1
You may have a faulty Cooler Or Cpu, When you feel the cooler is it warm? (The tube) You may want to contact Intel for a replacement cpu, Or corsair for a new cooler, How long does it take for it to get to 90c? Check in your Bios that it might of "Accidentally" Over clocked it or it might of Over Volted it.
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Reply to Littlesackninja
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Deathly1
August 2, 2014 2:15:24 PM
I just felt my tube and its is pretty cool ( not running any games at the moment). The cpu went over 90c when i was running the index test. It was over 90c for like 10 sec while it was being tested. I have a store warrenty on my cpu so yeah that's a plus. I want to check my bios but i dont know what volts it should be. CPU Z shows 1.1V peak after looking at it for 1 min.
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Reply to Deathly1
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Ok, It looks like you may have a faulty cpu then, Don't worry though, Intel Should provide you with another card, If it persists after that then its probably the motherboard but thats highly unlikely.
First, Does the cpu feel warm? Put your hand nearish it when on, Does it feel like the searing hot intensity of 90c? Is it defiantly not just an arrow on behalf of the program telling you its 90c.
Second, Use a program too give you the current performance of your cpu, Is it at an abnormal Clock Speed?
Third, Post the results here
First, Does the cpu feel warm? Put your hand nearish it when on, Does it feel like the searing hot intensity of 90c? Is it defiantly not just an arrow on behalf of the program telling you its 90c.
Second, Use a program too give you the current performance of your cpu, Is it at an abnormal Clock Speed?
Third, Post the results here
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Reply to Littlesackninja
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beefy
August 2, 2014 2:22:44 PM
Hi,
If your CPU volts are 1.1 that will be fine. Firstly do you know what driver you used for the h100I? below is a link for the newest ones 2.6.5214
http://www.corsair.com/en-gb/support/downloads
I would not use your pc for anything demanding until the problem can be pin pointed
If your CPU volts are 1.1 that will be fine. Firstly do you know what driver you used for the h100I? below is a link for the newest ones 2.6.5214
http://www.corsair.com/en-gb/support/downloads
I would not use your pc for anything demanding until the problem can be pin pointed
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Reply to beefy
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beefy
August 2, 2014 2:34:06 PM
Deathly1 said:
I did not remove the plastic cover on the back plate, but removed the wrapping on the water block.
I did not apply any thermal compound because I read that it is manufactuer applied. From my observations the standoffs for the cooler and my motherboard don't match up. The 4 screw in holes aren't aligned properly. 1 screw hole is closer to the water block then the others. Even the other screws aren't in their "ideal" location. I set my fans to "Performance Mode".
The water block should be tightly secure against the cpu with almost no perceivable gap. Yes there is thermal paste attached to the waterblock when you get it. It was that silverish material on the block. If it was just copper then it was missing the thermal paste and that would be a huge issue. The alignment of the screws shouldn't be an issue as long as the waterblock is securely and tightly touching the CPU itself. Btw don't reposition the waterblock to much if you lift the waterblock it will start creating airpockets in the thermal paste at which you would need to clean off and apply new thermal paste.
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Reply to caqde
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Deathly1
August 2, 2014 3:07:35 PM
I did NOT apply any third party thermal paste I used the pre applied one. As for tightening the screws I tightened it to the max and un tightened it just a tiny tiny bit. I really want to go through every other solution before reseating/removing the h100i. Remember I am new to this computer business so i dont want to disassemble anything that I dont have to. Im running TF2 right now, hopefully it isnt an CPU intensive process. Also it would be much appreciated if I could get a response reguarding my black screens. Thanks for all the responses so far! Oh yeah like i said before the intel chip has a store warranty so worse comes to worse I just swap it.
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Reply to Deathly1
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Deathly1
August 2, 2014 3:16:14 PM
Deathly1
August 2, 2014 3:31:26 PM
Ok before I put on the stock cooler I want to asses your understanding of the situation. Firstly only when Im running the Windows index performance does my cpu hit 90, the cpu usage was 90% (is this normal). Secondly what temps should I expect with the stock cooler. Lastly should I buy third party thermal paste apply it and check temps before I assume that it is a faulty cooler. Perhaps theres something wrong in the bios? Maybe I should change something there? Also can i get a response for my black screen issue?
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Reply to Deathly1
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beefy
August 2, 2014 3:35:03 PM
I would say the black screens are resulting from heat. If you still have the h100i connected what fan profile are you using??? there are quite to custom you can also set it to make speed which will be a bit loud but that should get the temp stable for the time being. Have you got CPU-Z install so we can know what your cpu core speed is.
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Reply to beefy
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Third party Thermal paste won't really make a difference. Your black screen issue could be from too high of a temperature or clock speed. In the bios make sure the clock speed of your cpu and power consumption isn't above the stock speeds and consumption. I have to go now but il be on tomorrow in Gmt time.
Also check your windows installation isn't corrupt, How is gaming performance (Run a game like crisis and such) Or any games, Then open up your temperature monitor right after you exit the game. I don't completely know what temps you should get with the stock cooler.
Also check your windows installation isn't corrupt, How is gaming performance (Run a game like crisis and such) Or any games, Then open up your temperature monitor right after you exit the game. I don't completely know what temps you should get with the stock cooler.
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Reply to Littlesackninja
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Deathly1
August 2, 2014 4:12:49 PM
@Littlesackninja- Thanks for all of your help so far, I look forward to speaking with you again tomorrow. Sorry if im taking things a bit slow, remember Im a newbie.
@beefy- Im not sure what is this fan profile you speak of. I created one and called it profile one but i didn't make any changes to the default. I do have CPU-Z installed however it keeps on fluctuating. However under the specification tab my core speed is 4.00GHZ (NOT OC).
@beefy- Im not sure what is this fan profile you speak of. I created one and called it profile one but i didn't make any changes to the default. I do have CPU-Z installed however it keeps on fluctuating. However under the specification tab my core speed is 4.00GHZ (NOT OC).
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Reply to Deathly1
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Deathly1
August 2, 2014 4:27:12 PM
beefy
August 2, 2014 4:30:49 PM
O.k. I`ll be up for about another 3hours yet. help me out here where are you getting the core speed from??? and have you got the up to date drivers for the h100i as I said earlier they nedd to be as above as old driver report wrongly or not at all. When you open corsair link you should see 2 fans and a pump indicator which i think should be reading 2250rpm you should also see Cpu temp,h100 temp and a socket temp do you see all of these? and if so what do they read
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Reply to beefy
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Deathly1
August 2, 2014 5:18:30 PM
just booted up pc the driver version for corsair link is 2.6.5214.
cpu temp is reading 35c
fan1 1509 rpm
fan2 1518rpm
h100i 2260 rpm
r9 200 1158 rpm
I recieved my core clock speed from cpu z it keeped on fluctuating so i just checked the specification tab saw that it was 4.0 mhz. strangly enough in my bios it said my clock speed was 4.4 mhz.
Can you check my previous post concerning my voltages? let me know if they are healthy or not. thanks beefy and all other contributers!
I could get some pictures for my bios,cpuz and rig with my ipad but ill need some explainations on how to put the pictures up.
cpu temp is reading 35c
fan1 1509 rpm
fan2 1518rpm
h100i 2260 rpm
r9 200 1158 rpm
I recieved my core clock speed from cpu z it keeped on fluctuating so i just checked the specification tab saw that it was 4.0 mhz. strangly enough in my bios it said my clock speed was 4.4 mhz.
Can you check my previous post concerning my voltages? let me know if they are healthy or not. thanks beefy and all other contributers!
I could get some pictures for my bios,cpuz and rig with my ipad but ill need some explainations on how to put the pictures up.
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Reply to Deathly1
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chromenut
August 2, 2014 5:27:07 PM
beefy
August 2, 2014 6:11:05 PM
now start up corsair link software and double click on 1 of the fans you should see it says mode,what mode are you in???
your voltages seem fine,in the bios you you should set the board to auto for voltages.
you core speed is fine as well 4 is your cpu standard clock and 4.4 is turbo mode does it ever drop lower the 4????
and where is the specification tab???
Also in the bios what have you got the ram fsb set as,2400mhz??? also set that to auto. Unless you wish to overclock your CPU ram rated 1600mhz would have been fine as you CPU only has a 1600mhz fsb and I should think 16gb of the 2400mhz was a lot of ££££.
your voltages seem fine,in the bios you you should set the board to auto for voltages.
you core speed is fine as well 4 is your cpu standard clock and 4.4 is turbo mode does it ever drop lower the 4????
and where is the specification tab???
Also in the bios what have you got the ram fsb set as,2400mhz??? also set that to auto. Unless you wish to overclock your CPU ram rated 1600mhz would have been fine as you CPU only has a 1600mhz fsb and I should think 16gb of the 2400mhz was a lot of ££££.
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Reply to beefy
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Deathly1
August 2, 2014 8:27:08 PM
beefy
August 2, 2014 11:53:04 PM
O.k. that sounds about right, when you set that you can set it to auto or go with 2400mhz it`s up to you. How many sticks of ram do you have??? if you have 4 sticks, a mobo will normally set it back to 1333mhz as not all memory will run at the higher fsb when all 4 slots are being used, but I don`t think thats the cause of your problem. I`m gonna need you to start the corsair link software and double click on 1 of the fans you should see it says mode on the right hand side,what mode are you in??? I want to make sure the fans are increasing in speed as the CPU temp rises, if you have it set in silent when you start gaming or start putting load on the CPU it will cause more heat and if your fans don`t speed up there is no way you can expect your CPU to stay cool. There are preset modes choose performance mode or maxim speed mode this will make sure your fans speed changes when you cpu gets hot,you need to do that on both fans. Everything you have reported back so far has pointed out the the h100i is working as it should,if you are still seeing high temps then it is looking like the CPU is the problem. let me know if by changing the fans mode has decreased the temp problem.
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Reply to beefy
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Ok lets slow down here. Short of a defective part, its usually something simple that is being overlooked. I'm by no means any kind of expert, but I've got a half a dozen builds under my belt and just completed a new Devil's Canyon build, so maybe I can help.
First of all, I would NEVER just use the pre-applied TIM on a cooler, or any part that comes with pre-applied paste. Even on a high-end cooler like the H100i, the paste is horrible compared to using a good quality paste like Artic MX-4. Also depending on the motherboard (and I am not sure about your Gigabyte), sometimes the copper waterblock from the cooler doesn't fit nice and snugly against the CPU's IHS because the layer of TIM is so thin and the mounting holes and bracket aren't fitting perfectly together. Again, another reason to use MX-4. But that being said, don't use too much paste. A subject of much argument, but I recommend using a very small dollop right in the middle of the IHS over the die area (about the size of two BBs), and let the waterblock spread it out as you tighten it down.
Also often people don't tighten the waterblock down tight enough to make solid contact with the IHS so there are no gaps, bubbles, or spaces in fear of cracking the mounting holes on the board. It needs to be very tight. Just go super slowly, tightening in a "X" pattern, screwing it down as tight as you can. Just be super careful, and pay very close attention and you won't crack the board. I MEAN VERY CAREFUL AND SLOW. The point is these two things can make a huge difference in temps: 1) Use a quality TIM 2) Super tight fit between IHS and waterblock.
Secondly how are your fans set up on the H100i? Are you exhausting air out, or pulling it in? Again a big topic of argument and discussion, but remember this: the air outside your case in your room is almost always cooler than the air inside your case. Especially with a R9 290 which generates a tremendous amount of heat (in fact I suspect the card may be causing some of your problems in addition to using the pre-applied TIM on the H100i).
I went with a Corsair H80i and experimented both ways - intake and exhaust (and my case is a Corsair Air 540), and I found my temps were almost 10C lower with my fans set up as intake, pulling in the outside air. I then have three 140mm fans (one on top, two in front) exhausting out the warm air filling up my case. It works better/cooler this way.
My i7 4790k idles in the low to mid 20s (C). And the H80i is quiet as a mouse. Under load it stays in the mid 40s (C). And when I say under load I'm not talking synthetic benches like PRIME95, I simply mean running BF4 at Ultra settings, having several utility apps running, as well as iTunes in the background. I rarely hit 50C.
Finally, simply by tweaking settings on your motherboard you may have caused or can solve your temp issues. I have a MSI Z97M "Gaming" series motherboard and have been extremely happy with it. I purposely went with a mATX board and a huge case like the 540 to allow for ample air-flow. This board is very much full featured with isolated audio circuits on the PCB, and two PCIe x16 3.0 slots (even though I will never again run SLI or X-Fire), as well as M.2 (and SATA-Express with an adapter). The BIOS is set to "Enhanced Turbo" and runs my i7 4790k at 4.4GHz constantly. So my idle temps running in the 20's are great at 4.4GHz. Right now RealTemp shows 23/25/22/23. Fluctuating voltage is normal in CPUz and mine goes from 1.123, to 1.202v. I've had this build up and running for about a month now and its been wonderful. Probably my best most trouble free build so far. And I can't believe how fast the 4790k is (try some encoding if you want to see what I mean). It is simply crazy.
Have you tried BOOTing without the R9 290 and see what your temps are to make certain the card isnt exhausting hot air into your case? This is especially true if you have your fans set to exhaust only because you wont have any cool air coming in. Your fans will be constantly trying to play "catch up" and expel the hot air, but they'll be fighting a losing battle.
Also, if you are "Black" screening and not BSOD'ing, it could indeed be your graphics card and/or monitor setup. Is the refresh rate set to the same freq on the card and the monitor? Try setting the refresh rate to 60Hz on both and see if it still happens. And, try and different connection from the card other than the DVI you are using. And are you using a single or dual link DVI cable? You want to use the DVI-D connector (not DVI-I) and a dual link cable (allowing for higher resolutions and bandwidth than single link).
But hey don't take my word for it, try it yourself.
Step 1- GET SOME GOOD TIM ON THAT COOLER! And mount it down tight!
Step 2- Reverse your fan set up to intake on the H100i, and exhaust on every other case fan
Step 3- Check BIOS and see if Enhanced Turbo is on, you can disable it to get Intel Speed Step to kick in and lower the frequency
Step 4- Check temps without the graphics card and see what they are - that card may be dumping a crapload of hot air inside your case
Step 5- Check display set-up with lower refresh rate (60Hz) - and make sure that your monitor's rate and card's rate match up and see what happens *[and make sure you're using DVI-D, and try different connector like HDMI cable- and hey cables go bad too, even try switching the DVI-D cable to a new or different one]
Step 6- Check system with a different graphics card keeping everything else the same - if it doesn't Black screen with a different card you've found the issue
Step 7- Check system with a different monitor keeping everything else the same - if it doesn't Black screen with a different monitor you've found the issue
And use either RealTemp or CoreTemp to measure the temps.
Good luck.
My DC build:
i7 4790k @ 4.4 GHz
MSI Z97M Gaming
Corsair Air 540 case w/three 140mm exhaust fans
Corsair H80i set up as intake for overall pull/push
4x4GB Crucial Ballistix 1600MHz
MSI "Gaming OC" GTX 770 4GB
PC Power & Cooling Silencer MK III 750 watt
HP (Lite-on) BluRay Player/DVDRW
Samsung 840 EVO 250GB (Boot)
Intel 320 160GB SSD (music/photos/docs)
Western Digital 1TB 7200RPM HDD
Windows 8.1 Pro w/Media Center
Twin 22" 1920x1080 monitors @60Hz (one LG and one Samsung)
Razer Deathadder mouse
Steelseries 6Gv2 mechanical keyboard (Cherry reds)
SteelSeries QcK+ Gaming Mouse Pad
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First of all, I would NEVER just use the pre-applied TIM on a cooler, or any part that comes with pre-applied paste. Even on a high-end cooler like the H100i, the paste is horrible compared to using a good quality paste like Artic MX-4. Also depending on the motherboard (and I am not sure about your Gigabyte), sometimes the copper waterblock from the cooler doesn't fit nice and snugly against the CPU's IHS because the layer of TIM is so thin and the mounting holes and bracket aren't fitting perfectly together. Again, another reason to use MX-4. But that being said, don't use too much paste. A subject of much argument, but I recommend using a very small dollop right in the middle of the IHS over the die area (about the size of two BBs), and let the waterblock spread it out as you tighten it down.
Also often people don't tighten the waterblock down tight enough to make solid contact with the IHS so there are no gaps, bubbles, or spaces in fear of cracking the mounting holes on the board. It needs to be very tight. Just go super slowly, tightening in a "X" pattern, screwing it down as tight as you can. Just be super careful, and pay very close attention and you won't crack the board. I MEAN VERY CAREFUL AND SLOW. The point is these two things can make a huge difference in temps: 1) Use a quality TIM 2) Super tight fit between IHS and waterblock.
Secondly how are your fans set up on the H100i? Are you exhausting air out, or pulling it in? Again a big topic of argument and discussion, but remember this: the air outside your case in your room is almost always cooler than the air inside your case. Especially with a R9 290 which generates a tremendous amount of heat (in fact I suspect the card may be causing some of your problems in addition to using the pre-applied TIM on the H100i).
I went with a Corsair H80i and experimented both ways - intake and exhaust (and my case is a Corsair Air 540), and I found my temps were almost 10C lower with my fans set up as intake, pulling in the outside air. I then have three 140mm fans (one on top, two in front) exhausting out the warm air filling up my case. It works better/cooler this way.
My i7 4790k idles in the low to mid 20s (C). And the H80i is quiet as a mouse. Under load it stays in the mid 40s (C). And when I say under load I'm not talking synthetic benches like PRIME95, I simply mean running BF4 at Ultra settings, having several utility apps running, as well as iTunes in the background. I rarely hit 50C.
Finally, simply by tweaking settings on your motherboard you may have caused or can solve your temp issues. I have a MSI Z97M "Gaming" series motherboard and have been extremely happy with it. I purposely went with a mATX board and a huge case like the 540 to allow for ample air-flow. This board is very much full featured with isolated audio circuits on the PCB, and two PCIe x16 3.0 slots (even though I will never again run SLI or X-Fire), as well as M.2 (and SATA-Express with an adapter). The BIOS is set to "Enhanced Turbo" and runs my i7 4790k at 4.4GHz constantly. So my idle temps running in the 20's are great at 4.4GHz. Right now RealTemp shows 23/25/22/23. Fluctuating voltage is normal in CPUz and mine goes from 1.123, to 1.202v. I've had this build up and running for about a month now and its been wonderful. Probably my best most trouble free build so far. And I can't believe how fast the 4790k is (try some encoding if you want to see what I mean). It is simply crazy.
Have you tried BOOTing without the R9 290 and see what your temps are to make certain the card isnt exhausting hot air into your case? This is especially true if you have your fans set to exhaust only because you wont have any cool air coming in. Your fans will be constantly trying to play "catch up" and expel the hot air, but they'll be fighting a losing battle.
Also, if you are "Black" screening and not BSOD'ing, it could indeed be your graphics card and/or monitor setup. Is the refresh rate set to the same freq on the card and the monitor? Try setting the refresh rate to 60Hz on both and see if it still happens. And, try and different connection from the card other than the DVI you are using. And are you using a single or dual link DVI cable? You want to use the DVI-D connector (not DVI-I) and a dual link cable (allowing for higher resolutions and bandwidth than single link).
But hey don't take my word for it, try it yourself.
Step 1- GET SOME GOOD TIM ON THAT COOLER! And mount it down tight!
Step 2- Reverse your fan set up to intake on the H100i, and exhaust on every other case fan
Step 3- Check BIOS and see if Enhanced Turbo is on, you can disable it to get Intel Speed Step to kick in and lower the frequency
Step 4- Check temps without the graphics card and see what they are - that card may be dumping a crapload of hot air inside your case
Step 5- Check display set-up with lower refresh rate (60Hz) - and make sure that your monitor's rate and card's rate match up and see what happens *[and make sure you're using DVI-D, and try different connector like HDMI cable- and hey cables go bad too, even try switching the DVI-D cable to a new or different one]
Step 6- Check system with a different graphics card keeping everything else the same - if it doesn't Black screen with a different card you've found the issue
Step 7- Check system with a different monitor keeping everything else the same - if it doesn't Black screen with a different monitor you've found the issue
And use either RealTemp or CoreTemp to measure the temps.
Good luck.
My DC build:
i7 4790k @ 4.4 GHz
MSI Z97M Gaming
Corsair Air 540 case w/three 140mm exhaust fans
Corsair H80i set up as intake for overall pull/push
4x4GB Crucial Ballistix 1600MHz
MSI "Gaming OC" GTX 770 4GB
PC Power & Cooling Silencer MK III 750 watt
HP (Lite-on) BluRay Player/DVDRW
Samsung 840 EVO 250GB (Boot)
Intel 320 160GB SSD (music/photos/docs)
Western Digital 1TB 7200RPM HDD
Windows 8.1 Pro w/Media Center
Twin 22" 1920x1080 monitors @60Hz (one LG and one Samsung)
Razer Deathadder mouse
Steelseries 6Gv2 mechanical keyboard (Cherry reds)
SteelSeries QcK+ Gaming Mouse Pad
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Reply to hapkiman
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Deathly1
August 3, 2014 7:30:11 AM
So i posted on another thread that said my core volate was WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY to high. I went into my bios and saw that it was set at 1.395 while on auto. Thats extreamly high apprently. so i dropped my voltage down to 1.22V and saw that my cpu core speed accually stablized. before it was fluctuating from 1000MHZ to 2400MHZ tops. I dont know if I made a mistake changing that volatge so let me know soon guys. Thanks for all your help so far!
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Reply to Deathly1
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Deathly1
August 3, 2014 7:31:06 AM
Deathly1
August 3, 2014 7:39:46 AM
Just turned on turbo boost to check if temps increased....... apparently it didnt now im really confused. After I dropped the voltage the temp in my bios dropped of 10 C! Is this the solution? Im going to pick up some thermal compound today arctic 5 high density cooler. Ill remount everything and get some temperatures i guess. Please let me know if i screwed up my voltages I dont want to damage my CPU!
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Reply to Deathly1
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Deathly1
August 3, 2014 7:53:29 AM
@littlesackninja what about my changes to the core voltages I cahnged them from 1.395 to 1.21? Should i revert them back? Should i take for turbo mode?. I just downloaded realtemp and my PC is apparently idling at 30c and 70 away from TJ max. Im getting arctic 5 thermal paste for 7 bucks is this good enough paste? Whoa cleaning that paste may be a hassle for me because im a noob. Can you link me to a guide/video on how to do so safely. Thanks again ~Ephraim
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Deathly1
August 3, 2014 7:58:12 AM
@beefy I always set my computer to "performance mode" I want that maximum cooling possible because of this overheating situation. There is definitely louder when I turn on performance mode. Also i'm running 2 sticks of 8 gb ram for 16 gb total. I promise I put them in the same colored memory slot. They are Corsair vengence pro 2400Mhz. I'm going to buy the paste at about noon time so Ill let you guys know when I have it!
P.S.: about how many uses should I expect from 1 purchase of arctic 5 thermal compound?
THANKS FOR ALL REPLIES! =)
P.S.: about how many uses should I expect from 1 purchase of arctic 5 thermal compound?
THANKS FOR ALL REPLIES! =)
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kevinlong
August 3, 2014 8:02:03 AM
Deathly1 said:
@littlesackninja what about my changes to the core voltages I cahnged them from 1.395 to 1.21? Should i revert them back? Should i take for turbo mode?. I just downloaded realtemp and my PC is apparently idling at 30c and 70 away from TJ max. Im getting arctic 5 thermal paste for 7 bucks is this good enough paste? Whoa cleaning that paste may be a hassle for me because im a noob. Can you link me to a guide/video on how to do so safely. Thanks again ~Ephraimhttp://www.tomshardware.com/forum/333968-28-thermal-pas...
As far as core voltages go, I'm not OCing expert but keeping it at 1.21 is stable in this case, more core voltage = higher temperatures.
Deathly1 said:
@beefy I always set my computer to "performance mode" I want that maximum cooling possible because of this overheating situation. There is definitely louder when I turn on performance mode. Also i'm running 2 sticks of 8 gb ram for 16 gb total. I promise I put them in the same colored memory slot. They are Corsair vengence pro 2400Mhz. I'm going to buy the paste at about noon time so Ill let you guys know when I have it!P.S.: about how many uses should I expect from 1 purchase of arctic 5 thermal compound?
THANKS FOR ALL REPLIES! =)
It can go for a long time, you only need to apply just a little bit and have the layer dispersed via fitting on the cooler. It's a great investment and it's recommended you clean your thermal paste and re-apply 1-2 times a year.
I feel your pain man, I'm trying to OC and I have an H80i and I think I installed it wrong as well so I'm troubleshooting similar issues to see if it's my cooler causing my OC to reach high 90s.
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Reply to kevinlong
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Yes Arctic silver 5 is great thermal paste.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x9MJUuU58vE
Make sure you try and use 99% not 70%
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x9MJUuU58vE
Make sure you try and use 99% not 70%
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beefy
August 3, 2014 8:35:23 AM
Hi,
your choice of thermal paste is fine but if you are worried about getting it over the mobo and causing a short you should get Arctic MX-2 this is non conductive but performs in the top 3 of all the test s i`ve read,I`m using this on my fx8350 and on my 955 which is overclocked@3.8GHz and it keeps them both around 30c at idle.
your choice of thermal paste is fine but if you are worried about getting it over the mobo and causing a short you should get Arctic MX-2 this is non conductive but performs in the top 3 of all the test s i`ve read,I`m using this on my fx8350 and on my 955 which is overclocked@3.8GHz and it keeps them both around 30c at idle.
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beefy
August 3, 2014 8:45:20 AM
If you bios are setting your voltages to high by using auto you might want to have a look at what version you have on your mobo and see if there's a newer version on the gigabyte website. it will have a little description of what is in the update. when refitting the water block it is hard to know how much is too much when tightening down but you should do it in the x pattern as mentioned earlier with you fingers as I think intels are done with thumbscrews and the get a screwdriver and carefully turn until your happy.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hNgFNH7zhQ
watch video for applying thermal paste
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hNgFNH7zhQ
watch video for applying thermal paste
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Deathly1
August 3, 2014 9:15:33 AM
Ok guys Im just about to head out to purchase the thermal paste. @beefy I dont think ill get any thermal paste on my mobo, since im a noob i think i will be EXTRA careful. For bios all i did was pop in the CD...... i guess ill have to update it. @littlesackninja for the stock cooler installation should I remove the backplate for the h100I. Ill be back in 2-3 hours with more updates thanks for all the feedback!
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beefy
August 3, 2014 9:41:26 AM
Hi,
when you get back find out what mobo revision you have got as there is a 1.0 and a 1.1 and both have quite new bios update within the last 2 months,when you boot up your pc depending on the option you have set in the bios you should see it flash up at the start if it`s lower the f8 you can update bios for "Improve Intel K-sku CPU performance"
when you get back find out what mobo revision you have got as there is a 1.0 and a 1.1 and both have quite new bios update within the last 2 months,when you boot up your pc depending on the option you have set in the bios you should see it flash up at the start if it`s lower the f8 you can update bios for "Improve Intel K-sku CPU performance"
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Reply to beefy
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Yes thanks goes to Littlesackninja- forgot to tell you to first clean off ALL the pre-applied thermal paste then put on the new paste. Its very easy. You want a shiny and lint free waterblock and IHS. 90% or higher Isopropyl Alcohol and Q-tips work great.
And if there is a BIOS update for mobo I would do it.
And I would also go into BIOS and set EVERY setting to their Default until you figure this out. No XMP settings for RAM, no OC, or enhanced turbo - just Default until this is fixed.
It is possible your RAM may be causing issues as well, although RAM typically causes BSODs (blue screens) not Black screens. Black screens are almost always an indication of some kind of Display problem (but can be caused by high temps as well). Graphics cards, refresh settings, monitor settings, etc... But there are always exceptions.- and a voltage over 1.3v is too high and will definitely cause that DC proc to heat up quickly.
Still, if you do have any other available RAM, try it and see. Remove all your new RAM and use the old DIMMs and see what happens.
Removing the H100i and installing the stock Intel heatsink (clean off of TIM from it as well and apply new paste) would be a pain but will give you an indication if its your H100i causing the issues..
Artic Silver 5 is good, but like I said MX-4 is better. I actually prefer MX-4 over MX-2 and I've used both several times (but the difference is tiny- MX-4 is the newer product though). One good thing about MX-4 is there is no burn-in period. Its ready to go when you apply it. Artic Silver 5 has a burn-in period.
http://www.maximumpc.com/article/features/geek_tested_1...
And if there is a BIOS update for mobo I would do it.
And I would also go into BIOS and set EVERY setting to their Default until you figure this out. No XMP settings for RAM, no OC, or enhanced turbo - just Default until this is fixed.
It is possible your RAM may be causing issues as well, although RAM typically causes BSODs (blue screens) not Black screens. Black screens are almost always an indication of some kind of Display problem (but can be caused by high temps as well). Graphics cards, refresh settings, monitor settings, etc... But there are always exceptions.- and a voltage over 1.3v is too high and will definitely cause that DC proc to heat up quickly.
Still, if you do have any other available RAM, try it and see. Remove all your new RAM and use the old DIMMs and see what happens.
Removing the H100i and installing the stock Intel heatsink (clean off of TIM from it as well and apply new paste) would be a pain but will give you an indication if its your H100i causing the issues..
Artic Silver 5 is good, but like I said MX-4 is better. I actually prefer MX-4 over MX-2 and I've used both several times (but the difference is tiny- MX-4 is the newer product though). One good thing about MX-4 is there is no burn-in period. Its ready to go when you apply it. Artic Silver 5 has a burn-in period.
http://www.maximumpc.com/article/features/geek_tested_1...
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Deathly1
August 3, 2014 6:38:19 PM
Well i went to Walmart today and looked for the thermal paste. They apparently dont sell anything related to computers in store only on thier website. I am pretty upset about it, looks liek this tread has to be put on hold since I have to order the thermal paste. AS of right now my temps are peaking at 36c because I have put my gaming on a hold till I can solve this issue. I dont want to change the default voltage for my cpu because the default was 1.395. Also the blackscreens have stopped because I am currently not gaming. Thanks for all the help so far but this thread is gonna be useless until I can purchase that paste.
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beefy
August 3, 2014 6:41:34 PM
Default voltage should not be 1.395v. That can't be right - too high for default. The "normal" stock voltage for an i7 4790k can be between 1.05v and 1.2v. But 1.35v is about ~0.10v higher than the typical default core voltage. I ran 1.35v overclocked to 4.6GHz.
And you really do need to update your motherboard to the latest BIOS.
If you're saying the Black screen effect stopped when you stopped gaming, then again a big arrow pointing to a graphics/display related issue. Swap out to a different card and try gaming. I'm betting no Black screen.
And you really do need to update your motherboard to the latest BIOS.
If you're saying the Black screen effect stopped when you stopped gaming, then again a big arrow pointing to a graphics/display related issue. Swap out to a different card and try gaming. I'm betting no Black screen.
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hapkiman said:
If you're saying the Black screen effect stopped when you stopped gaming, then again a big arrow pointing to a graphics/display related issue. Swap out to a different card and try gaming. I'm betting no Black screen.
Totally agree, If it stopped when you were gaming it may be a graphics card problem, What are your gpu temperatures?
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!