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i7-4790k Overheating With Corsair H60

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  • Computers
  • Intel i7
  • CPUs
  • Corsair
Last response: in CPUs
August 16, 2014 6:51:54 PM

I just put together my rig and everything seemed to be alright. I decided to run a prime 95 test on my computer and the CPU would instantly jump from 28c at idle to 100c. I have the Corsair H60 and my CPU is the i7-4790k. I already checked to make sure that my pump is getting the 12V of power it needs and I already tried reseating the cooler. The pump and fan are both working fine. If you guys have any idea what I can do to fix this, I'm all ears.

More about : 4790k overheating corsair h60

August 16, 2014 7:12:26 PM

Not very familiar with water coiling but it sounds like the coolant is not moving. It should be running a bit cooler at idle too. When a load is applied it can't handle it. Dumb question but did you apply thermal paste?
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August 16, 2014 7:13:40 PM

It can really only be one of two things: the cooler is not seated well, or the cooler is not working. I see you have checked the pump and fan and you are sure it is working? Does the radiator get hot? For it to instantly jump to 100 degrees I presume the radiator is not even getting slightly warm as it is clearly not doing it's job at all. Ok then if you have checked the above, can I suggest changing power source to the H60. You can sometimes use molex for power, or alternatively use a different fan header. If I think of anything else I will come back!
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August 16, 2014 7:18:08 PM

xuxu said:
I just put together my rig and everything seemed to be alright. I decided to run a prime 95 test on my computer and the CPU would instantly jump from 28c at idle to 100c. I have the Corsair H60 and my CPU is the i7-4790k. I already checked to make sure that my pump is getting the 12V of power it needs and I already tried reseating the cooler. The pump and fan are both working fine. If you guys have any idea what I can do to fix this, I'm all ears.


# i have read that people have had issues fitting the cooling plate make sure the the heat sink is covering the CPU fully with lots of heat sink compound some said they used the whole tube that came with it, they had the same problem, when he took it apart he found the that the cooler was half on half off sorta, i remember that some heat sinks can only be put on one way. Make sure it is set flush even if you think it is double check,

I haven't had much experience with this subject except for this instance i mentioned.

I assume you need to apply firm pressure, like when you put ram in, click!!

h60 is a water cooling device for the cpu right?

Have you check cpu voltage aswell but i think this should be auto detected?
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August 16, 2014 7:35:55 PM

http://youtu.be/HO9APx2yKrg check out this link make sure you seat the all the mountings flush, so the unit can fit together properly including the risers so everything screw together properly, but you probably have it sorted already!
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August 16, 2014 8:13:23 PM

Matthew Busse said:
Not very familiar with water coiling but it sounds like the coolant is not moving. It should be running a bit cooler at idle too. When a load is applied it can't handle it. Dumb question but did you apply thermal paste?

Yeah, there was thermal paste on there originally. I even removed the paste and repasted with Arctic silver without any change in performance.

m3ch said:
It can really only be one of two things: the cooler is not seated well, or the cooler is not working. I see you have checked the pump and fan and you are sure it is working? Does the radiator get hot? For it to instantly jump to 100 degrees I presume the radiator is not even getting slightly warm as it is clearly not doing it's job at all. Ok then if you have checked the above, can I suggest changing power source to the H60. You can sometimes use molex for power, or alternatively use a different fan header. If I think of anything else I will come back!


The radiator gets pretty warm. The tubes, one of them gets pretty warm and the other is relatively cool. I'll see if I can connect a molex for power and see how it goes

Baconhashtags said:
13973949,0,1739368 said:

I haven't had much experience with this subject except for this instance i mentioned.

I assume you need to apply firm pressure, like when you put ram in, click!!

h60 is a water cooling device for the cpu right?

Have you check cpu voltage aswell but i think this should be auto detected?
said:

It's not a click in thing, you gotta screw the thing down. Yes it is a cpu cooling device.

Baconhashtags said:
http://youtu.be/HO9APx2yKrg check out this link make sure you seat the all the mountings flush, so the unit can fit together properly including the risers so everything screw together properly, but you probably have it sorted already!

Yeah I've already watched that video and made sure that the mount was mounted on correctly.
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August 16, 2014 10:31:29 PM

xuxu said:
Matthew Busse said:
Not very familiar with water coiling but it sounds like the coolant is not moving. It should be running a bit cooler at idle too. When a load is applied it can't handle it. Dumb question but did you apply thermal paste?

Yeah, there was thermal paste on there originally. I even removed the paste and repasted with Arctic silver without any change in performance.

m3ch said:
It can really only be one of two things: the cooler is not seated well, or the cooler is not working. I see you have checked the pump and fan and you are sure it is working? Does the radiator get hot? For it to instantly jump to 100 degrees I presume the radiator is not even getting slightly warm as it is clearly not doing it's job at all. Ok then if you have checked the above, can I suggest changing power source to the H60. You can sometimes use molex for power, or alternatively use a different fan header. If I think of anything else I will come back!


The radiator gets pretty warm. The tubes, one of them gets pretty warm and the other is relatively cool. I'll see if I can connect a molex for power and see how it goes

Baconhashtags said:
13973949,0,1739368 said:

I haven't had much experience with this subject except for this instance i mentioned.

I assume you need to apply firm pressure, like when you put ram in, click!!

h60 is a water cooling device for the cpu right?

Have you check cpu voltage aswell but i think this should be auto detected?
said:

It's not a click in thing, you gotta screw the thing down. Yes it is a cpu cooling device.

Baconhashtags said:
http://youtu.be/HO9APx2yKrg check out this link make sure you seat the all the mountings flush, so the unit can fit together properly including the risers so everything screw together properly, but you probably have it sorted already!

Yeah I've already watched that video and made sure that the mount was mounted on correctly.
said:


# well yeah to clarify the rear mount bracket behind the mobo might not be pushed in far enought! or some of the spacers might not be pushed down far enough! or some of the brackets! etcetera. This was the case in the installation every thing looked perfect and screwed in and appeared to be tight and solid but, he went back and found it was only half seated on the cpu?

But you could have a faulty unit, maybe you need more fans and space in you computer, check the safe working temp of your cpu with your manufacturer maybe you chip can handle it, but i dont know much about stress testing so maybe 100 defgis normal.

Silly question did you install the fan and radiator the correct way! And if you removed a case fan maybe you should put it back i. Some where else.

The reason being some fans push and some fans pull, effecting the flow of air through your computer if installed wrong, you want to maximise CFM traditionally, have you considered bolting on another fan to the back of your radiator housing for a push pull system, lol, if not you might want to get a bigger water cooler,

Ummm reminds me is your mobo actually varying the speed of the cooler in relations to load and heat, i know some mother boards and fans use four connections instead of three so the speed automatically changes with load. If this is not working that could account for heat build up. Maybe u have to enable it in bios or connect to a different fane header?
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a c 130 à CPUs
August 16, 2014 10:36:58 PM

What mobo do you have, and have you updated the BIOS? Have seen a few cases with wild temp and voltage fluctuations with DC chips that were fixed with BIOS update. Worth a try anyway :) 
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August 16, 2014 10:56:21 PM

Look for a high quality vane axial fan and go back to the good old days, check out some of the aerospace firms, and i considered making my own custom heat sink!, i heard of some crazy cooling options such as using a spot cooler, which actually uses and air compressor but can achieve temperature below -0c but i dont know how you would incorporate that into a home pc!
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August 16, 2014 11:12:51 PM

volcanoscout said:
What mobo do you have, and have you updated the BIOS? Have seen a few cases with wild temp and voltage fluctuations with DC chips that were fixed with BIOS update. Worth a try anyway :) 


I have the Gigabyte Z97X-UD3H. I'll check if there is any BIOs update for my mobo

Edit: No luck unfortunately.
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August 17, 2014 11:57:04 AM

Baconhashtags said:
Turns out if you connect to the wrong fan header the cooler will work at full power continuously might be a bit annoying but try it, this will disable the pwm

I found a thread on your Cooler

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=102003


I've already disabled any sort of power management for the pump and there hasn't been any difference.
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August 17, 2014 12:22:24 PM

Ok what temp do you get whrn you run. Demanding games and stuff
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August 17, 2014 12:23:31 PM

Baconhashtags said:
Ok what temp do you get whrn you run. Demanding games and stuff


When I was playing League of Legends it would go up to around 60-70c
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a c 225 à CPUs
August 17, 2014 1:00:59 PM

Ok, first off, the original paste is very high quality, easily equal to the arctic silver, and does not require @200 heat cycles to cure.

Second, the cpu fan should be attached to cpu_fan, and the pump to either molex or preferably cpu_aux and no control software, enable 100% duty cycle if cpu_aux is controlable in bios.

Third, when installing a pump, use a pea-sized dab of thermal paste, after making sure the backplate/spacers are correctly installed. Gently attach the pump with the required twist lock, then tighten down the locking ring, using a 'X' or 'figure 8' pattern, not a circular one. The 4 mounting screws should only be turned 1/4 turn at each, by finger until all 4 are really snug, then 1/8 of a turn until your fingertips are screaming and you are considering getting a screwdriver. Do not tighten 1 screw at a time, tighten all the screws at the same time.

Unless you touched the copper plate, or the lid of the cpu and left oily fingerprint, or unnecessarily moved the pump after it made contact with the cpu, you should be good. If you did either of the above, start over, you just messed up the paste.
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August 17, 2014 3:17:11 PM

Maybe you need a bigger cooler ?
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a c 225 à CPUs
August 17, 2014 6:06:18 PM

The cooler is just fine, its a 180w unit, equitable to a CM Hyper212 EVO. Unless op is pushing 4.5+ OC, he shouldn't be seeing 100° temps under prime95. I only see 74° @4.4 with a h55. Op may see upto 10° warmer than that as the arctic silver is not cured yet + his cpu has higher TDP, but thats also at 4.3-4.4 OC.
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August 17, 2014 8:33:52 PM

Karadjgne said:
The cooler is just fine, its a 180w unit, equitable to a CM Hyper212 EVO. Unless op is pushing 4.5+ OC, he shouldn't be seeing 100° temps under prime95. I only see 74° @4.4 with a h55. Op may see upto 10° warmer than that as the arctic silver is not cured yet + his cpu has higher TDP, but thats also at 4.3-4.4 OC.


# so that leaves a few things! has he mounted it correctly, has i put the fan on the right way i assume theres some difference in flow from push to pull! Does he need to run a pull push system? What do you think. Maybe he should put another cas fan in if he has only one which he replaced, or he should wait to see what happens when the paste has set, so,e say the paste you get in the box is better than stuff you buy cheap!
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a b à CPUs
August 17, 2014 9:03:51 PM

Prime95 is a bad choice to stress Devils Canyon. It will run TOO HOT approaching 100C. Try Googling this and you will find countless people complaining about the same situation regardless of their cooling set-up. Use Aida64 stess test instead. Haswell seems to do much better with it.

And if he is idling at 28C I'm betting he is good to go. Its just the nature of Haswell/DC. It just isn't made for Prime95. Prime is too intense for it.
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August 17, 2014 9:08:56 PM

What if he hooked it upto 40 fans? Lol
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a c 225 à CPUs
August 17, 2014 10:03:44 PM

Prime95 will run a cpu to 115% on all cores simultaneously. IBT is even worse, pushing to @125%. Its why it is used by oc'rs for stability testing. If you can pass prime95, you can push any game and not crash. As far as temps go, with that cooler, even a DC shouldn't hit 100° at stock speeds, on a stock cooler, yes, h-60? No way. I'm thinking either a bad paste job or the pump is installed incorrectly.
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August 18, 2014 4:13:06 PM



Karadjgne said:
Prime95 will run a cpu to 115% on all cores simultaneously. IBT is even worse, pushing to @125%. Its why it is used by oc'rs for stability testing. If you can pass prime95, you can push any game and not crash. As far as temps go, with that cooler, even a DC shouldn't hit 100° at stock speeds, on a stock cooler, yes, h-60? No way. I'm thinking either a bad paste job or the pump is installed incorrectly.


I installed the pump exactly as the corsair installation video. Also, the paste job is most definitely fine, I'm confident in my repasting abilities to not mess it up. With aida 64 stability test though, the temperatures start at around 70 degrees slowly climbing to 90s after 5 minutes or so.
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a c 225 à CPUs
August 18, 2014 4:25:16 PM

And you are sure the pump is tight, tighter than you think would be ok, the fan is mounted in a push configuration used as exhaust, and you have a good airflow from the intake fan(s)?
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August 18, 2014 8:09:56 PM

Karadjgne said:
And you are sure the pump is tight, tighter than you think would be ok, the fan is mounted in a push configuration used as exhaust, and you have a good airflow from the intake fan(s)?


Yeah the fan is mounted correctly, I have good airflow from intake fans. What do you mean the pump being tight?
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August 19, 2014 7:00:44 PM

Karadjgne said:
And you are sure the pump is tight, tighter than you think would be ok, the fan is mounted in a push configuration used as exhaust, and you have a good airflow from the intake fan(s)?


Okay, so I decided to take off the Corsair H60 and use the stock cooler, and when I run prime 95 and aida 64, the same thing happens, is something wrong with my cpu?
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August 19, 2014 9:53:33 PM

Is the Bios up to date? I had issues with my GENE-Z MB as the board was pumping too much voltage through as it could not recognise the chip making it throttle almost immediatly on the stock cooler, once updated the temps were hitting 89c at stock.after 3hrs of prime.

Try manually setting vcore in the bios too, some have an offset which pumps and extra 0.1v through the chip, manually setting the vcore disables this offset.

I have a 4790K on a H100i and it idles about 2c above ambient,

under load at 4.4Ghz 1.132vcore it hits 60c after 3 hrs prime max heat
At 4.6Ghz 1.2vcore it hits 71c after 3hrs prime95
at 4.8Ghz 1.28vcore it hits 82c under prime 95 after 3hrs

This is in summer temps of 25c ambient

Edit - I also installed rubber o rings when i installed the backplate of the H100i, in the correct orientation, to give a truer mating surface between CPU and heatsink.
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August 20, 2014 1:48:33 AM

djralford said:
Is the Bios up to date? I had issues with my GENE-Z MB as the board was pumping too much voltage through as it could not recognise the chip making it throttle almost immediatly on the stock cooler, once updated the temps were hitting 89c at stock.after 3hrs of prime.

Try manually setting vcore in the bios too, some have an offset which pumps and extra 0.1v through the chip, manually setting the vcore disables this offset.

I have a 4790K on a H100i and it idles about 2c above ambient,

under load at 4.4Ghz 1.132vcore it hits 60c after 3 hrs prime max heat
At 4.6Ghz 1.2vcore it hits 71c after 3hrs prime95
at 4.8Ghz 1.28vcore it hits 82c under prime 95 after 3hrs

This is in summer temps of 25c ambient

Edit - I also installed rubber o rings when i installed the backplate of the H100i, in the correct orientation, to give a truer mating surface between CPU and heatsink.


What should I set the vcore to? When i set it to 1.132V and ran Aida64 I got a bsod after 40 seconds or so.
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August 20, 2014 8:28:49 AM

xuxu said:
djralford said:
Is the Bios up to date? I had issues with my GENE-Z MB as the board was pumping too much voltage through as it could not recognise the chip making it throttle almost immediatly on the stock cooler, once updated the temps were hitting 89c at stock.after 3hrs of prime.

Try manually setting vcore in the bios too, some have an offset which pumps and extra 0.1v through the chip, manually setting the vcore disables this offset.

I have a 4790K on a H100i and it idles about 2c above ambient,

under load at 4.4Ghz 1.132vcore it hits 60c after 3 hrs prime max heat
At 4.6Ghz 1.2vcore it hits 71c after 3hrs prime95
at 4.8Ghz 1.28vcore it hits 82c under prime 95 after 3hrs

This is in summer temps of 25c ambient

Edit - I also installed rubber o rings when i installed the backplate of the H100i, in the correct orientation, to give a truer mating surface between CPU and heatsink.


What should I set the vcore to? When i set it to 1.132V and ran Aida64 I got a bsod after 40 seconds or so.


Is the bios the latest version, no point doing anything until that's done.

You need to find your own vcore, just bump it a little and try again, keep going until it's stable for a few hours, try 1.14v, then 1.15v etc etc
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August 20, 2014 2:13:45 PM

djralford said:
Is the Bios up to date? I had issues with my GENE-Z MB as the board was pumping too much voltage through as it could not recognise the chip making it throttle almost immediatly on the stock cooler, once updated the temps were hitting 89c at stock.after 3hrs of prime.

Try manually setting vcore in the bios too, some have an offset which pumps and extra 0.1v through the chip, manually setting the vcore disables this offset.

I have a 4790K on a H100i and it idles about 2c above ambient,

under load at 4.4Ghz 1.132vcore it hits 60c after 3 hrs prime max heat
At 4.6Ghz 1.2vcore it hits 71c after 3hrs prime95
at 4.8Ghz 1.28vcore it hits 82c under prime 95 after 3hrs

This is in summer temps of 25c ambient

Edit - I also installed rubber o rings when i installed the backplate of the H100i, in the correct orientation, to give a truer mating surface between CPU and heatsink.


djralford said:
xuxu said:
djralford said:
Is the Bios up to date? I had issues with my GENE-Z MB as the board was pumping too much voltage through as it could not recognise the chip making it throttle almost immediatly on the stock cooler, once updated the temps were hitting 89c at stock.after 3hrs of prime.

Try manually setting vcore in the bios too, some have an offset which pumps and extra 0.1v through the chip, manually setting the vcore disables this offset.

I have a 4790K on a H100i and it idles about 2c above ambient,

under load at 4.4Ghz 1.132vcore it hits 60c after 3 hrs prime max heat
At 4.6Ghz 1.2vcore it hits 71c after 3hrs prime95
at 4.8Ghz 1.28vcore it hits 82c under prime 95 after 3hrs

This is in summer temps of 25c ambient

Edit - I also installed rubber o rings when i installed the backplate of the H100i, in the correct orientation, to give a truer mating surface between CPU and heatsink.


What should I set the vcore to? When i set it to 1.132V and ran Aida64 I got a bsod after 40 seconds or so.


Is the bios the latest version, no point doing anything until that's done.

You need to find your own vcore, just bump it a little and try again, keep going until it's stable for a few hours, try 1.14v, then 1.15v etc etc


Yeah the bios is up to date and is compatible with my chip. I'll try finding my own vcore and I think I'm gonna turn off the K overclock, perhaps that will help lower the temperatures more.
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a c 225 à CPUs
August 20, 2014 7:43:40 PM

It has been discovered that for some reason the mounting pressure on a pump has a definite bearing on its ability to absorb the cpu heat. All cpu coverings whether pump or block or aircooler, need to be solidly mounted to the lid, but with aircoolers this is to what's considered 'tight'. With blocks and pumps you get measurably better results if the mount is what to aircoolers considered 'over tight'. Aircoolers are only supposed to be tightened by hand down to 'its starting to hurt the fingertips now' whereas pumps work better at 'ok, get the screwdriver and add an extra 1/4 turn' passed that. In the article i read, which I can't seem to find now, there was an almost 10° difference between the instructions recommended and the 'over tight' reality.
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