Is This Power Adapter Good For This PSU?
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Shark Dentist
August 18, 2014 12:04:31 PM
I live in Ireland but because of the good exchange rate I'm ordering parts from the US Amazon.
Will this US PSU http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045L4BJ6/ref=ox_sc_a...
Work in Ireland/UK with this power adapter?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Cable-Mountain-US-Plug-Adapter-...
Thaks in advance!
Will this US PSU http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045L4BJ6/ref=ox_sc_a...
Work in Ireland/UK with this power adapter?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Cable-Mountain-US-Plug-Adapter-...
Thaks in advance!
More about : power adapter good psu
It would be easier to find something like this: www.amazon.co.uk/Lindy-Mains-Power-Lead-3-Pin/dp/B000I2...
Is the standard the same in Ireland as it is in the UK?
The adapter needs to fit the plug in the picture below. The 2 pin would work for a laptop though.
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needs to be 2 pin and a ground
http://www.staples.com/Staples-6-AC-Power-Cable/product...
Is the standard the same in Ireland as it is in the UK?
The adapter needs to fit the plug in the picture below. The 2 pin would work for a laptop though.
needs to be 2 pin and a ground
http://www.staples.com/Staples-6-AC-Power-Cable/product...
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Slobodan-888
August 18, 2014 12:13:16 PM
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Shark Dentist
August 18, 2014 12:13:33 PM
Pondering said:
The adapter needs to fit the plug in the picture below. The 2 pin would work for a laptop though.needs to be 2 pin and a ground
http://www.staples.com/Staples-6-AC-Power-Cable/product...
Is there a way to just buy a UK cable that connects into the US PSU?
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Slobodan-888
August 18, 2014 12:14:31 PM
Shark Dentist
August 18, 2014 12:19:45 PM
So if I was to buy this cable - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Cable-Tex-Kettle-Power-Cable-Ma...
and plug it into this PSU - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045L4BJ6/ref=ox_sc_a...
Everything would work fine?
and plug it into this PSU - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045L4BJ6/ref=ox_sc_a...
Everything would work fine?
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Slobodan-888
August 18, 2014 12:21:57 PM
Shark Dentist
August 18, 2014 12:25:22 PM
Shark Dentist said:
Even tho the PSU is from the US? Great!
Thanks everyone for your help!
Actually, I'd relook that - the PSU draws 5A-10A. Using a 5A-fused cord would work for a while before the fuse went, but I think you're looking for something that will last a little longer. There may be better permanent solutions available, but for now you'd be better off with the adapter you linked in your first post.
Edit: Or change out the fuse for a 10A before you use it. It's replaceable, so shouldn't be hard or expensive.
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Shark Dentist
August 18, 2014 12:33:54 PM
volcanoscout said:
Shark Dentist said:
Even tho the PSU is from the US? Great!
Thanks everyone for your help!
Actually, I'd relook that - the PSU draws 5A-10A. Using a 5A-fused cord would work for a while before the fuse went, but I think you're looking for something that will last a little longer. There may be better permanent solutions available, but for now you'd be better off with the adapter you linked in your first post.
So that power adapter would be better than just buying the cable?
This http://www.amazon.co.uk/Cable-Mountain-US-Plug-Adapter-...
VS
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Cable-Tex-Kettle-Power-Cable-Ma...
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Shark Dentist said:
volcanoscout said:
Shark Dentist said:
Even tho the PSU is from the US? Great!
Thanks everyone for your help!
Actually, I'd relook that - the PSU draws 5A-10A. Using a 5A-fused cord would work for a while before the fuse went, but I think you're looking for something that will last a little longer. There may be better permanent solutions available, but for now you'd be better off with the adapter you linked in your first post.
So that power adapter would be better than just buying the cable?
I edited my last post to add, "Or change out the fuse for a 10A before you use it. It's replaceable, so shouldn't be hard or expensive."
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Shark Dentist
August 18, 2014 12:41:05 PM
volcanoscout said:
Shark Dentist said:
volcanoscout said:
Shark Dentist said:
Even tho the PSU is from the US? Great!
Thanks everyone for your help!
Actually, I'd relook that - the PSU draws 5A-10A. Using a 5A-fused cord would work for a while before the fuse went, but I think you're looking for something that will last a little longer. There may be better permanent solutions available, but for now you'd be better off with the adapter you linked in your first post.
So that power adapter would be better than just buying the cable?
I edited my last post to add, "Or change out the fuse for a 10A before you use it. It's replaceable, so shouldn't be hard or expensive."
How do I do that?
Is it just a more expensive cable?
Sorry if I sound like an idiot..I have absolutely no clue when it comes to power cables etc..
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Best solution
This one would work - Max Capacity Up to 3000 Watt (max 250 Volt, 13 A):
http://www.amazon.com/OREI-Hong-Kong-Adapter-Plug/dp/B0...
Don't worry about it - most people don't
http://www.amazon.com/OREI-Hong-Kong-Adapter-Plug/dp/B0...
Don't worry about it - most people don't
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Slobodan-888
August 18, 2014 12:48:49 PM
Shark Dentist
August 18, 2014 12:56:03 PM
volcanoscout said:
This one would work - Max Capacity Up to 3000 Watt (max 250 Volt, 13 A):http://www.amazon.com/OREI-Hong-Kong-Adapter-Plug/dp/B0...
Don't worry about it - most people don't
So just stick the cable supplied with the PSU straight into the adapter you linked and..wallaaah??!
Awesome,thanks!
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Shark Dentist
August 18, 2014 12:57:27 PM
Slobodan-888
August 18, 2014 1:03:48 PM
Shark Dentist
August 18, 2014 1:07:26 PM
Slobodan-888
August 18, 2014 1:17:24 PM
Standard UK double-sockets are rated to provide provide up to 13A continuous draw (from either or both sockets -actual draw can be up to 20A or more). The PSU is rated to draw 5A-10A, as per the manufacturer. A 5A fuse will work - before it fails. And it will fail, but hopefully not during a BIOS flash causing the OP to brick his mobo, or in the middle of something else important. A 5A fuse is sufficient for many laptops, but not a desktop.
I can say from personal experience that there's a big gap between what you CAN do and what you SHOULD do. Aside from extensive past personal experience working with UK-standard electrical systems, my company currently provides sensitive and extremely expensive electronic systems to the UK MoD and other EU customers. As part of the contracting process, I have to vet all aspects of the systems for compatibility, including cables, chargers, adapters, inverters, transformers, etc., so I'm reasonably confident that the advice I'm giving is accurate, but you don't have to take my word for any of this - all of it is easily verifiable online through reputable technical websites. Google is your friend
OP - I encourage you to research it yourself, but I think you'll find the adapter I linked in my last post is entirely sufficient and appropriate for your purposes. It's also cheap, simple and reliable. If you opt for a different solution that also incorporates a fuse, I'd advise you to get one rated at 10A-15A (220V-240V), or if the fuse is not inside that range, replace the fuse with one that is. You'd be okay with a higher rated fuse, but if you're going to have it in connection, you might as well take advantage of it as an additional protective measure for your PC.
I can say from personal experience that there's a big gap between what you CAN do and what you SHOULD do. Aside from extensive past personal experience working with UK-standard electrical systems, my company currently provides sensitive and extremely expensive electronic systems to the UK MoD and other EU customers. As part of the contracting process, I have to vet all aspects of the systems for compatibility, including cables, chargers, adapters, inverters, transformers, etc., so I'm reasonably confident that the advice I'm giving is accurate, but you don't have to take my word for any of this - all of it is easily verifiable online through reputable technical websites. Google is your friend
OP - I encourage you to research it yourself, but I think you'll find the adapter I linked in my last post is entirely sufficient and appropriate for your purposes. It's also cheap, simple and reliable. If you opt for a different solution that also incorporates a fuse, I'd advise you to get one rated at 10A-15A (220V-240V), or if the fuse is not inside that range, replace the fuse with one that is. You'd be okay with a higher rated fuse, but if you're going to have it in connection, you might as well take advantage of it as an additional protective measure for your PC.
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Shark Dentist
August 18, 2014 4:30:06 PM
volcanoscout said:
Standard UK double-sockets are rated to provide provide up to 13A continuous draw (from either or both sockets -actual draw can be up to 20A or more). The PSU is rated to draw 5A-10A, as per the manufacturer. A 5A fuse will work - before it fails. And it will fail, but hopefully not during a BIOS flash causing the OP to brick his mobo, or in the middle of something else important. A 5A fuse is sufficient for many laptops, but not a desktop.I can say from personal experience that there's a big gap between what you CAN do and what you SHOULD do. Aside from extensive past personal experience working with UK-standard electrical systems, my company currently provides sensitive and extremely expensive electronic systems to the UK MoD and other EU customers. As part of the contracting process, I have to vet all aspects of the systems for compatibility, including cables, chargers, adapters, inverters, transformers, etc., so I'm reasonably confident that the advice I'm giving is accurate, but you don't have to take my word for any of this - all of it is easily verifiable online through reputable technical websites. Google is your friend
OP - I encourage you to research it yourself, but I think you'll find the adapter I linked in my last post is entirely sufficient and appropriate for your purposes. It's also cheap, simple and reliable. If you opt for a different solution that also incorporates a fuse, I'd advise you to get one rated at 10A-15A (220V-240V), or if the fuse is not inside that range, replace the fuse with one that is. You'd be okay with a higher rated fuse, but if you're going to have it in connection, you might as well take advantage of it as an additional protective measure for your PC.
I got this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003OD9XU8/ref=pe_385721_379...
Is it ok?
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That's a BS1362 cable which isn't really designed to carry the load you're going to be asking of it. You want to be looking for a cable that meets BS 1363, or an adapter that meets BS1363-3 standards.
See this: http://www.bs1363.org.uk/index.html
See this: http://www.bs1363.org.uk/index.html
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Shark Dentist
August 18, 2014 4:59:16 PM
volcanoscout said:
That's a BS1362 cable which isn't really designed to carry the load you're going to be asking of it. You want to be looking for a cable that meets BS 1363, or an adapter that meets BS1363-3 standards.See this: http://www.bs1363.org.uk/index.html
Can you link me a good cable?
(From the Amazon UK store please)
And does anyone know how to change an order on Amazon so I change the cable I just ordered before it gets taken out of my bank account?
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Shark Dentist said:
volcanoscout said:
That's a BS1362 cable which isn't really designed to carry the load you're going to be asking of it. You want to be looking for a cable that meets BS 1363, or an adapter that meets BS1363-3 standards.See this: http://www.bs1363.org.uk/index.html
Can you link me a good cable?
(From the Amazon UK store please)
And does anyone know how to change an order on Amazon so I change the cable I just ordered before it gets taken out of my bank account?
Log in, go to My Account, and My Orders, and locate the cable. There should be a "Cancel order" button next to it.
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Shark Dentist
August 18, 2014 5:13:09 PM
volcanoscout said:
Shark Dentist said:
volcanoscout said:
That's a BS1362 cable which isn't really designed to carry the load you're going to be asking of it. You want to be looking for a cable that meets BS 1363, or an adapter that meets BS1363-3 standards.See this: http://www.bs1363.org.uk/index.html
Can you link me a good cable?
(From the Amazon UK store please)
And does anyone know how to change an order on Amazon so I change the cable I just ordered before it gets taken out of my bank account?
Log in, go to My Account, and My Orders, and locate the cable. There should be a "Cancel order" button next to it.
I cancelled it,thanks.
Is there a way to add an order onto another order that was made today so I can get the free shipping of my last order?
I'm looking into getting the http://www.amazon.co.uk/OREI-2-In-1-Universal-Adapter-P... that you linked me earlier today.
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Shark Dentist
August 18, 2014 5:26:21 PM
volcanoscout said:
I don't think you can, but I'm not positive. One option would be to cancel the rest of your order, then place the order again with the adapters added. Worth a try anyway.I'm too scared to place it again lol
Another option would be.. (if I'm able) is to use the power cable I have now from my 550w PSU?
You think it would work?
It's a UK PSU but the cable is 3-pin/UK cable so it might work ??
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Probably - it should have it's ratings stamped on the plug head. I was going to say earlier that all of the cables I saw on Amazon UK that were appropriate were attached to PSUs already.
If I came off sounding all fire and brimstone, I apologize - I just hate to see expensive equipment ruined for lack of a simple accessory. Most U.S. military equipment is made to US MILSPEC standards. Quite a lot of UK military equipment, particularly electronics, is commercial off-the-shelf. A large chunk of that is made in the U.S. to U.S. specs. You'd be amazed at how many pounds of your taxes go up in smoke because somebody used an improper adapter or cable.
Edit: Sorry, I guess I just dated myself in regard to international borders. No offense intended
If I came off sounding all fire and brimstone, I apologize - I just hate to see expensive equipment ruined for lack of a simple accessory. Most U.S. military equipment is made to US MILSPEC standards. Quite a lot of UK military equipment, particularly electronics, is commercial off-the-shelf. A large chunk of that is made in the U.S. to U.S. specs. You'd be amazed at how many pounds of your taxes go up in smoke because somebody used an improper adapter or cable.
Edit: Sorry, I guess I just dated myself in regard to international borders. No offense intended
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Quote:
I can say from personal experience that there's a big gap between what you CAN do and what you SHOULD do..if the fuse is not inside that range, replace the fuse with one that is. Not sure you SHOULD just replace something does the job a fuse does with one rated higher just because you feel the first/spec one is so small.
If the fuze allows for 1kW+, and he's using a 750W PSU which probably won't even output that, what's the harm? I think it's an 80 bronze PSU, so even IF he was drawing 750W at 82% efficiency he's pulling 915W. Close to the 1.2kW that fuse is rated for, but still 300W less. I'm sure he'd be fine with either solution.
Quote:
Another option would be.. (if I'm able) is to use the power cable I have now from my 550w PSU?You think it would work?
As I understand things it's the wire gauge you need to worry about. The difference in draw between a 550W and 750W isn't much so the cable should be fine. In the reviews I've read you have to get above 1200 or 1300W before you need to worry about having the larger 14G power cable. The 16/18G cables that come with normal PSUs are all changeable.
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anbello262
August 18, 2014 8:16:52 PM
Actually, the PSU claims to pull 5-10A, but it's easy:
It will pull up to 5A when working on 220V
It will pull up to 10A when working on 110V
So if you live in a country where electricity is 220V, then you have no reason to worry, just use the 5A fuse.
But even if you don't use a fuse it will be fine, as the PSU itself has more than enough protections. Cables don't really need a fuse...
It will pull up to 5A when working on 220V
It will pull up to 10A when working on 110V
So if you live in a country where electricity is 220V, then you have no reason to worry, just use the 5A fuse.
But even if you don't use a fuse it will be fine, as the PSU itself has more than enough protections. Cables don't really need a fuse...
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I'll have to go ahead and eat crow on my amperage statement - I'm used to dealing with systems that have to handle dual-voltage on both the native U.S.-spec plug AND with the adapter, but clearly that's not applicable here. 5A is in fact sufficient, not 10A as I claimed. Apologies all around if I put anyone's nose out of joint.
Luckily, my misstatement appears to have saved the OP some money, even if by accident. His current 550W PSU cable with UK plug should be a standard IEC cable and rated appropriately.
Luckily, my misstatement appears to have saved the OP some money, even if by accident. His current 550W PSU cable with UK plug should be a standard IEC cable and rated appropriately.
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anbello262
August 18, 2014 9:44:08 PM
Slobodan-888
August 19, 2014 12:35:23 AM
Shark Dentist
August 19, 2014 7:06:18 AM
volcanoscout said:
Probably - it should have it's ratings stamped on the plug head. I was going to say earlier that all of the cables I saw on Amazon UK that were appropriate were attached to PSUs already. If I came off sounding all fire and brimstone, I apologize - I just hate to see expensive equipment ruined for lack of a simple accessory. Most U.S. military equipment is made to US MILSPEC standards. Quite a lot of UK military equipment, particularly electronics, is commercial off-the-shelf. A large chunk of that is made in the U.S. to U.S. specs. You'd be amazed at how many pounds of your taxes go up in smoke because somebody used an improper adapter or cable.
Edit: Sorry, I guess I just dated myself in regard to international borders. No offense intended
interesting,never knew that about the army!
(btw I didn't think you sounded fire and brimstone
)Thanks for all of your help Volcano!
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