Issue with liquid cooling

Toggle sidebar Toggle sidebar
Y

Younis Jassem

Reputable
Apr 2, 2014
13
0
4,510
This is my first time installing a liquid cooling kit on my CPU. I'm using a Cooler Master Seidon 120XL. I have installed it twice before getting exceptional results. I got higher temp than my stock heat-sink the first time was installed.

My i7 2600K stock heat-sink idles at 39-42 C. The first time I installed the Seidon 120 XL kit I used to get 60 C and kept rising to 70-80 C so I shut down the PC and checked if everything was installed correctly then searched for installation guides online. I found out that the tubing's on the radiator placed at the bottom; I had them on the top. So I re-installed with rad tubing at the bottom and got 32-34 C idle temp, now i have about 8 degrees C cooler temps than the stock.
Im still not sure if the tubing position was the cause of the problem but all was good and it worked... for a while..

So I shut down my PC I have my desktop tower on its side adjusting some cables and what not then turned my PC on (while still lying on its side) and the fans are on full speed I checked the temps and it was 60 and increasing, then just realised that the tubing have to be at the bottom so I moved my PC WHILE its running to stand position but the temps did not adjust. I shut down and back on but with no success. I don't know if the liquid cooling device is damaged or if I'm doing something wrong?? Right now I'm back on my stock heatsink.

Any links/guide/help would be appreciated.

Edit: TL;DR
Two questions: Does the radiator and tubing placement matter? is it okay to place my tower PC on it side?
 
Sort by date Sort by votes
rubix_1011

rubix_1011

Contributing Writer
Moderator
Jan 12, 2007
16,707
660
60,190
Many people have seen issues with closed loop coolers where they get an airlock from the radiator and lines having an (you guessed it) air bubble in the loop. This causes the pump to not move any coolant and in turn, causes your temps to rise. Usually, mounting the tubing down can help with this, but still shouldn't be an issue if these coolers were filled to capacity (which they often aren't). You might also check to make sure you don't have a leak from any screws piercing the radiator or any cooling tubes (where the radiator fins are connected, not the tubing between the pump/block and radiator).

I would attempt the following:

Disconnect the radiator from the chassis so you can freely rotate it; ensure the pump/block is seated on CPU and the pump and all fans are able to power on as usual.

Power on your computer. Note temp settings. If hot, rotate the radiator until you hear gurgling and you see temps go down. If you rotate again, note sounds and temps. You will likely have to find how and if your cooler airlocks, what it sounds like and what orientation corrects the issue. If you find that the cooler does not improve temps by doing any of these steps repeatedly and in all directions, you might have bigger issues...the cooler might not have coolant (has happened) or you have a bad pump (also happens).

Edit ('duh' moment): if you have problems with the cooler or suspect it is faulty, request an RMA from CoolerMaster or see if you can return it where you purchased it. RMA is often your best bet.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Y

Younis Jassem

Reputable
Apr 2, 2014
13
0
4,510


Thanks for the reply. I'm going to try this later.

I have a quick question;
When checking Fan speed monitor in BIOS I can see ~1000 RPM next to CPU_FAN (radiator fans, 4-pins) but next to the to OPT_FAN3 (pump block, 4-pin) it show N/A.

Now I know that the bump must be at full RPM which used to be ~1400 when I got it to work for a while but right now I'm getting N/A. I see the blue light on the pump block which indicates the bump is working but the RPM in the BIOS is showing N/A? I tried connecting it to a different header but same results. I wanted to try connecting it directly to the PSU but I don't have the adapter for it.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
rubix_1011

rubix_1011

Contributing Writer
Moderator
Jan 12, 2007
16,707
660
60,190
Are you powering down before switching the connector between the headers? If not, make sure you do so. I wouldn't go unplugging or plugging anything into your motherboard while your system is powered up. Motherboards don't typically like hot-plugging much of anything into them.

Your pump should typically be connected to the CPU_FAN header since the pump likely ramps up RPMs due to the CPU cooler fan speed based on reported CPU core temperature sensors.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
You must log in or register to reply here.

TRENDING THREADS

Latest posts

Moderators online

Share this page

COMPANY
RESOURCES
FOLLOW
Top Bottom