recommendations on this setup

Jclepejr

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Aug 30, 2014
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4,510
i will be using this for light gaming not any first person shooter games just casual gaming what are your thoughts.
PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/RdY4ZL
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/RdY4ZL/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($188.99 @ NCIX US)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock H97 PERFORMANCE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($80.91 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($72.00 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($53.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 760 2GB Dual Superclocked ACX Video Card ($214.00 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 430W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($25.00 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($19.98 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: *Microsoft Windows 8.1 - 64-bit (OEM) (64-bit) ($92.98 @ OutletPC)
Total: $772.83
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-09-01 02:29 EDT-0400
 
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You can save money on the CPU cooler and remove that. Why I say this? The stock cooler will be fine as you can't overclock the current CPU and the aftermarket cooler doesn't do much compared to a stock cooler when no overclocking is performed.

I would personally change the PSU to a Tier 2 Class B or 3 PSU with that build. But the one you listed is a Tier 3 PSU which is good. However I have heard problem with the CX Series and from what I have learnt is that the CX series is recommended for short term or temporary use only. But try investing in a Tier 2 as it is great it have a reliable one as the PSU is like the heart. And if the heart ides the body dies, similar to a computer system.

Anyways I hope that wasn't too much. ;)
 

Jclepejr

Reputable
Aug 30, 2014
6
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4,510


thanks for the cpu cooler help, but I don't know to much about computers so I don't understand the things about the tier 2 and 3. i assume you are speaking of the power supply. if its not to much of a hassle would you mind explaining to me what you said and what would be a better option to use instead. thanks in advance
 

John Widner

Honorable
Jul 27, 2013
12
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10,510
A 430 Watt power supply is very small, a bronze rating means when this thing gets under load and gets hot (like when you play games) it doesn't give you 430 watts. Bronze just means its very inefficient. Try to get a 650 Watt power supply with at least a silver rating.

Just for theoretical numbers
Two 700 Watt power supplies
One Bronze
One platinum
Both playing 8 tabs of Crisis 3
The bronze will cut down to supplying 600 watts
The Platinum will only drop to 650.
(These are not real factual numbers)

With your cpu and gpu a 430 watt psu will really struggle to keep them powered, especially under load.
 

John Widner

Honorable
Jul 27, 2013
12
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10,510
Also one time a cheaped out and got the cheapest 750 watt psu I could find. It surged immediately and killed my whole rig and burned a hole in my MoBo. Turns out it did this to many others.

Always read reviews and don't cheap out.
 
Sorry for the late reply here's a brief overview of what each Tier is responsible for. By the way this is from the link by a member of Tom's. I am about to list the PSU tier you should be aiming for in your build.

Tier one - The highest quality and most stable PSUs available on the hardware market today. Highly recommended for any situation


Tier two class A - Excellent quality units, if not, as good as the Tier one class of units. For people who have a limited budget, but still want a reliable unit for the price

Tier two Class B - Lower life span or slightly lower power output than rated. These are still great units, all of which are still within standard ATX specifications




I wouldn't really go for this but if budget is an obstacle then maybe yes.


Tier three - Meets standard ATX specifications, though closer to the edges than Tier two units. These are still solid units, which still supply stable power to your system, though not ideal for serious overclocking


Don't forget there are certificates for PSU for energy savings. Here's from best to worst. Platinum 80+, Gold 80+, Sliver 80+, Bronze 80+, 80+, no certificate at all.

Hope this helps. :)
 


Yah that's true that's why I added the analogy of a human heart and the body. If the heart fails the person is dead. If the PSU fails and burns, the parts are gone.

And one more hing, the body may remain and so is the computer case.
 

Jclepejr

Reputable
Aug 30, 2014
6
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4,510




is this a better option http://pcpartpicker.com/part/xfx-power-supply-p1750bbefx
 



Absolutely with your build. It is a Tier 2 Class A which is great. And it is an XFX one of the best PSU brands in my opinion.
 
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