H100i not doing so well?

The_Pianoman

Reputable
May 14, 2014
23
0
4,520
Alright so I am having issues cooling my CPU.

Here is my setup:
CPU: AMD FX8320
Cooler: Corsair H100i
Case: BitFenix Shinobi
Fans on Cooler: Gelid Slim with Blue LED
and just in case:
Fan Controller: NZXT digital controller
Mobo: Asus M5A99X Evo
GPU: EVGA GTX 760
Power: TX650M

Temps:
Idle: 34
10 min Stress: 65 (stayed at 64 for last 3 min then jumped to 65 as I stopped it)
In Civ 5: 49

Fan details:
2 BitFenix fans on intake in front.
1 Corsair Exhaust Fan on Back
2 Gelid Exhaust fans on radiator at top
1 Vent on side
1 Vent on bottom

I have had this setup for a while and it never worked right. I just got the time to ponder why it isn't doing it. I have heard people maxing out at like 45C with this cooler and I am getting around 65C on a stress test and 50-55C in my benchmark game Civilization 5. This is ridiculous for this cooler in my opinion so the question is, why. I wanted to post on here before putting any money into it.

My first idea is that the Gelid slims aren't moving the air out well enough. I had to fit them because the case was too small for the Corsairs supplied. I got the ones with LED for fun :p Even with the slims though I had to squeeze them in and mount the radiator higher to make it work.

Second I was thinking, maybe the thermal paste isn't doing it's job well enough. I used the stock paste that came pre applied on the surface of the cooler. I have Antec Formula 7 Nano Diamond Thermal Compound I bought for my first gen PS3 (Cause that sucker was gettin hot!) but don't want to use that expensive compound if it is not going to make a difference or if I have to replace the cooler.

Last could it be a problem with the actual cooler? I got it as factory refurbished from Fry's but it should be working like new.

Any ideas?

Was thinking about another intake fan on the bottom near the power supply. Don't know what good that might do if I think the issue is due to lack of escaping air but I could be crazy.

I was thinking about trading someone on Reddit for and H80i because that one would fit much better in the case without having to squeeze it in but I'm not sure. I would prefer not to ditch my nice cooler for a lesser one but if I must I must. Would that solve anything?

Hope I provided enough info to help me diagnose :p

Thanks!

Idle


100% Load 10 min


Civ 5 10 min


 

someguynamedmatt

Distinguished
...I had an H100i temporarily - it was used to cool the Xeon E3-1240v3 that runs in my Rosewill W1 mini-ITX case. When you were mounting the backplate to the motherboard, was it clamped firmly down by the standoff-like bolts that went between the pump and backplate? Or, was it loose on the motherboard until you mounted the pump down?

The reason I ask, is because my own H100i had something... wrong... with it; the backplate actually wasn't threaded properly or something, which led to it putting very little pressure on the CPU (I'd assume), and my load temps were in the mid 60s. That's absurd for a stock-clocked Xeon. It seems that a few other people have have had the same problem, and that some sort of felt/rubber washer between the back plate and motherboard can help, but I just tossed it back in the box, screwed a Noctua NH-U12 down, and called it a day. It makes less noise and lets me use my ODD anyway.

Just a theory.
 

The_Pianoman

Reputable
May 14, 2014
23
0
4,520
It is secure, all the wires are well in place, including the USB. I opened Corsair Link (I haven't messed around with it much. I just kind of installed it. However I looked through it and the H100i is not listed. Is it not detecting it? I double check and rechecked the USB cable and all is fine!
 
G

Guest

Guest
Evidently there's an issue with the backplate orientation.
Apparently its a big issue because it's difficult to spot.

Honestly I'm talking out of my rear orifice here, I do have a H80i, but it uses the stock backplate on AMD boards.
Try remounting with a flipped backplate, it's a long shot.
 

The_Pianoman

Reputable
May 14, 2014
23
0
4,520
So I was trying stuff with Corsair's customer service and found that there is a driver or something called USB Dongle that was not installed. This got it to register on Corsair Link. Also I didn't have the fans plugged into the cooler, I had them in the board and the pump into the fan controller. (I'm dumb.) It is actually running at a lower temp now though! It went down to 59C then stuffed a bigger fan in there and got it down to 57C on the stress test. I plugged everything in correctly with the pump into the CPU fan slot on the board. However now I'm getting all these Warnings from the BIOS. (Such as "CPU_OPT 0 rpm", "+VDDP voltage 3.060 V") Haha this sucks. Any suggestions on this? I already did a reset with the battery.



 

The_Pianoman

Reputable
May 14, 2014
23
0
4,520
There are 2 ports. 1 is labeled CPU Fan, the other is labeled CPU OPT (Optional). I am told I don't need a fan in this port and I need to turn it off in the BIOS but Corsair customer service said they don't know where it is on the ASUS BIOS and ASUS customer service says I would need to over clock to fix the problem which they won't tell me how to do (even though I don't want to and just want the message gone). Stupid.

I have resolved the heat issue already but now these messages are the last thing to getting this running right.
 

The_Pianoman

Reputable
May 14, 2014
23
0
4,520
Yeah. I did everything to the letter in that!

Everything plugged in



Pump sensor wire plugged into "CPU FAN" header. Nothing plugged into "CPU OPT"



Fans plugged into H100i via adapter cable



Power plugged into SATA connector.


Then USB is plugged in just no pic. I can see it in Corsair Link so it is good!
 

The_Pianoman

Reputable
May 14, 2014
23
0
4,520
Computer wouldn't boot with CPU opt. I was looking for that setting in BIOS but couldn't find it. I was looking around AI Suite and I found something called Probe II. Inside that I was able to turn off alerts for all the issues. I don't like the idea of just turning them off but it got rid of them. It seems like the sensor is either not reading right or it is missing something because everything in that settings area has let off a warning. Gonna further investigate the BIOS but that's where I stand as of now.