Need pre-assembled cheap desktop without HDD

Sean Kurth

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I was in the process of fixing a 2009 Compaq Presario, and I'd stopped the blue screens and gotten it running for 2 days straight by replacing the hard drive, upgrading the RAM, and replacing the CMOS jumper (it had none). Then a few hours ago, Windows 7 blue-screened with "bad_pool_caller," rebooted, blue-screened again with "bad_memory," then shut down. I pressed the power button and nothing happened. I smelled the power supply and it was unpleasant.

Basically what happened was Compaq put a 250W power supply in a fully loaded, multiple hard drives, 2 lightscribe-dvd-cd-bluray drives, 4GB RAM machine that should have had at least 400W. I'd have felt better with 500W. Predictably enough, the power supply blew and fried the motherboard after only 5 years, I tested this with another known working supply. The blue screens were really Windows updating me on the PSU gradually frying components in real time, one by one.

However, the hard drive and disc drive were *not* fried. Since the Bazillion terabyte drives and bluray-lightscribe disc burners are about half the cost of a new PC, I was thinking I could get one for cheap if I order without them and used my own.Basically, the machine I want will be a case with a 400-500W power supply by a good brand like Antec, and a board. Preassembled with plentiful ports, but no HDD or disc burner.

Specs:
Basically the equivalent of http://www.cnet.com/products/compaq-presario-sr5710y-athlon-64-x2-4450e-2-3-ghz-none/specs/

Processor: Amd Athlon 64, at least 2.3Ghz, I don't really care if its dual or quad core, but if the quad core doesn't cost too much more that would be great.

RAM: 4GB

Graphics: A low-end Geforce or even Intel graphics would be okay as long as the memory is good (1GB or more).

Power supply: 400-500W and made by Antec. This is non-negotiable. I could tone down the processor or graphics if that was required to squeeze the price point. It needs plenty of plugs, because I have two burners and my own drive.

Repeat: NO OS, NO DRIVE, NO BURNERS. I'm hoping this will cut half or more off the price point.

The brands I'm really looking at are Dell, Asus, and Acer. Cheap custom builders would work too. HP and Lenovo are not options, I want 10 years out of this thing, not 10 days. And the price should be $300 or less, but if that's not possible I could go to $400 or less.
 
Solution
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Pentium G3258 3.2GHz Dual-Core Processor ($69.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97M Anniversary Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($81.97 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($44.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GT 730 1GB Video Card ($56.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Antec One ATX Mid Tower Case ($45.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: Antec EarthWatts Platinum 550W 80+ Platinum Certified ATX Power Supply ($86.24 @ Amazon)
Total: $386.16
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by...

gizzard1987

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Aug 7, 2013
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Are you against building one yourself? You can get all the things you need for that cost and be upgraded for the long run. The problem with buying from companies like dell or hp, they give you a system with a minimal psu in them, because they want you to buy the upgraded one with all the stuff in it from them instead of buying a cheap on and upgrading.
 

Sean Kurth

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Sep 22, 2014
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Well, actually what I would prefer to do is get a cheap PC that's nothing but a board with a CPU, RAM and Graphics, upgrade the PSU myself (I've seen 500W Antecs for as low as $70), then build in the rest with the external components I salvaged from the Compaq. I just don't want to risk plugging something in the wrong way while assembling stuff on the board, since even if you know what you're doing it only takes one stupid mistake to fry your board.

You see, the Compaq's problem is that its power supply was so inadequate that it couldn't even handle the components that were already in there stock. I would be okay with something cheap or borderline as long as its not inadequate to power a single hard drive and a DVD burner as well as the board.
 

gizzard1987

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Aug 7, 2013
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PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Pentium G3258 3.2GHz Dual-Core Processor ($69.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97M Anniversary Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($81.97 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($44.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GT 730 1GB Video Card ($56.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Antec One ATX Mid Tower Case ($45.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: Antec EarthWatts Platinum 550W 80+ Platinum Certified ATX Power Supply ($86.24 @ Amazon)
Total: $386.16
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-09-22 19:39 EDT-0400

This is what I threw together before you posted just now. I understand the concern, I had all the same fears when I did my first build. I just kept watching youtube videos the whole time I was assembling it. I watched everything they did. If I had extra wires, I looked them up. It's actually quite fulfilling to put it all together yourself.


EDIT:
Back to the build.
I chose that motherboard because it has all the headers you'll need for everything you said you have. It has great quality as well as great thermal design for long life.
I chose a case with great cooling options as well as plenty of room for adding drives and have plenty of room for anything you might add in the future.
I chose g.skill ram because it's been reliable great ram for years.
I didn't like it, but I got picked an Antec Earthwatts Platinum PSU for you so that you can have peace of mind for a longgggggggg time. I don't like small PSUs that cost as much as my 850w psu, but the price is there for a reason. :p
I picked the pentium cpu because, if you wanted to, it can be overclocked, quite easily with the ASRock Anniversary suite that comes on that motherboard. If not, it's still a great snappy little processor, that will make your life a dream. It's essentially an i3 without Hyperthreading.
You said you wanted a small 1 GB graphics card, so I picked the one that Tom's Hardware recommends for that price point. It's the 64-bit model which actually outperforms the 128-bit versions because it, for some reason, comes with a stronger gpu.

Hope this helps!

I scanned through a few of the pre-built sites and they just don't offer what you want/need for that price point. You basically have to get a HDD, as well as pay for Windows somewhere in that price tag. They don't have enough expansion bays without paying 5-600 bucks for the build.
 
Solution

Sean Kurth

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Sep 22, 2014
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Thank you, that's basically what I wanted. A quality power supply is absolutely essential though. If your RAM or GPU dies, you can just replace it, but if the power supply kills your board and everything directly attached to it, you're screwed. And I was just seriously lucky that it gave me *some* warning it was dying and my hard drive was salvageable. Most power supply deaths I've seen occur spontaneously and kill everything around them.

In the end, though, longevity is just dumb luck. You can buy two eMachines/Gateway T-series desktops, exactly the same, use them exactly the same, and one will die in 2 years while the other one will be handed down to your children. Quality helps, but in the end its pretty much random. You have no way of knowing which cheap power supply will blow a circuit first unless you disassemble it.
 

gizzard1987

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Yeah that's like the computer I upgraded from last Christmas. It was a dell e521 workstation with about the same specs you listed, minus plenty of hard drive space. I had upgraded as much as I possibly could until I finally had to upgrade. I had even upgraded the processor with one that most people swore would not work. I was almost 10 years old when I got rid of it. I had other dells with Pentium 4s and they never lasted more than a couple years, but the original Celeron Dell I had is still being used by my brother for web browsing on base in the Army and it was a 300 dollar PC in 1999.


I wish you the best of luck with your build. I really hope everything works out for you and I hope you take the time and watch plenty of how to videos like I did. It definitely makes a huge difference in the long run when you make your own and familiarize yourself with everything inside. Make sure you go over everything 3-4 times, and google everything that you're not 110% about.
 

Sean Kurth

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Sep 22, 2014
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Thanks, I ordered the stuff and its in the mail. I did make a few changes though, mainly I decided I should go with 8GB memory since I would be upgrading in a few years if I went with 4GB (I know it seems like a lot now, but remember that in 2005 2GB seemed like a lot, and was still pretty adequate until early 2013 or so).

I also added a sound card (because I'll be sorry I didn't when/if, inevitably, google play music gives a 96khz option).

I removed the graphics card because 1GB of Intel integrated can do A LOT. I have a laptop with a Pentium and about 1.5GB integrated memory, and I can manage about 2 hours of video, edited every 2-5 minutes, in photoshop before I have to save or get an out of memory error. I can even play Cities XL 2011 at full settings no problem. And I figure that with 8GB RAM, I won't have to worry too much about sharing memory with other programs. If I do need a graphics card later I can always buy one and add it.

I downgraded the power supply to 500W because I figure that as a pretty average home PC, this build would only suck up between 300W and 400W tops, especially without that graphics card hogging up almost 50 watts. Its still name brand, so its not like I'm buying a generic that says 500W on the box but would only deliver 300W. The Compaq's problem was that its PSU wasn't even adequate for basic home use, but I can probably meet that with a bit of wiggle room for hard drives without doubling the price. Besides, looking at the Newegg price curve on that PSU you posted, it will be down to $50 or $60 by the middle of next year if current trends continue. I might just upgrade when that happens.

I also added a case cooling fan, because why not? I went super cheap because its loud enough that if it fails, I'll know, and the CPU cooling fan (went a bit pricier because I'm now paranoid about things frying for obvious reasons) would keep the computer from immediately overheating before I could do a shutdown when the case fan does die.

Also, I managed to drop the price down to about $300. You see, after dinner I mowed the lawn, and as I was putting the mower back in the shed, my neighbor came out and said he'd bricked his PC and the dude at Staples told him the RAM was dead. The PC is a Dell Dimension 4500, and as you may or may not know, this was an incredibly cheap PC when it was made and the power supply was at the limit. It was 250W, but it was a 10 year old, cheap 250W that was in reality delivering less than 200W. Staples didn't want to risk it since they didn't know what the real peak wattage was. Knowing nothing about RAM other than that it exists and more=better, he went to a local hole-in-the-wall family run parts shop and bought 8GB of DDR3. The Dell is DDR. No return policy. So, I put in 2x1 (2GB) DDR from an eMachines T3124 in my closet (it came with 512MB, I put that back in. No reason not to, its on Android x86 4.4 RC1, so 512MB is plenty). This is the highest DDR can go. There are 2x2 (4GB) DDR setups available, but some old boards won't recognize more than 2GB. So I got 8GB corsair RAM for free :)

BTW, here's my build: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/seankurth/saved/8ssV3C

I didn't buy directly off the site though because I wanted to google for the best prices. There are hundreds of lesser-known parts sites, and sometimes Google can find a $50 part on sale at randomchinesesite.com (that isn't an actual site). If it turns out to be a cheap knockoff I can just dispute the charge as a scam with my bank.
 

Sean Kurth

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Sep 22, 2014
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What's really ridiculous, though, is how much extra stuff Dell says you need. Their "Help me choose" links say that a 4GB RAM machine with an Intel i3 is a slow web browsing machine, an 8GB machine with a graphics card can do "simple games and document editing," and finally, the most ridiculous of all, you apparently need 16GB RAM for "web browser games" and 32GB to have a shot at "desktop games." I guess Dell expects most of their users to have 100 web browser windows open at once, increasing exponentially with more RAM. This is one of the main things that convinced me to take your advice and go custom. Even for relatively hardcore gaming, most user won't need more than 4GB, 8GB tops, and it will likely stay that way for a few years unless you play BF# or Crysis.
 

gizzard1987

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Aug 7, 2013
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The power supply you selected is one of the lesser models, even for Antec. I chose the Platinum grade because of the length of time you expect from this machine. I'm not saying the one you selected isn't going to work, but for the things you listed you're looking at around 350 watts without the graphics card. I added in some power hungry models to figure this stuff up, as PC Part Picker has a wattage preview on their website. You've done 2 things by changing the build. First off your RAM is going to have to pull more weight now because it's not only doing normal processing, but it's also going to be handle all graphics based workload. By reducing the power supply you've also possibly shortened the lifespan of your PC. If you want efficiency, and longevity you want to go by a 50-70% rule, meaning what you should get about 30-50% more than you "need". The PSU you chose is not a bad unit, but it's only 80+ certified. The lower rating means it can/will produce more heat, doing 2 things. Heat with electronics shortens lifespan, and wastes efficiency, and over time, efficiency will deteriorate.

The graphics card would have been a nice addition to the build and would have saved a little wear and tear on the ram in the long term. Since you did get 8 GB of RAM, this should alleviate some of that.

Just a heads up on the CPU cooler you chose. It's designed for older systems that do not support smart fan controllers for the CPU. It's going to pretty much run wide open. I'd suggest changing to a Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo. They're much like the one you selected, but much less dated. They are very efficient coolers and will be able to maintain much cooler temperatures.

On another note, I've read that those sound cards aren't really any better than 90% onboard sound. The motherboard has great audio quality already.

This is the audio support that your motherboard already offers. Up to 96kHz
http://www.realtek.com/products/productsView.aspx?Langid=1&PNid=24&PFid=37&Level=5&Conn=4&ProdID=144
 

Sean Kurth

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Sep 22, 2014
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Yeah, guess you're right about the power supply. I can just order the one you suggested and keep the one that's already coming as a backup for when I eventually (could be 2 years, could be 20, as I said its pretty much dumb luck) start getting random reboots. And as far as the sound card, sorry, I'm a bit 90s on that, I remember and should probably stop living in the days when every decent game required a sound card, and motherboards had almost no if any integrated sound. I'll probably buy a 192khz, since sound is something I really can't sacrifice. And as for the graphics card, agreed. Its better to have some dedicated memory, even if its just 1GB, so there's some buffer before the RAM has to start pitching in. For the cooling fan, why not, its not that pricey.

Its not that money is a particular constraint, I just wanted to get something cheap that would last a while, and unfortunately many of the major OEMs have succumbed to planned obsolescence in the past 5 years or so by adding cheap PSUs that are a guaranteed kill switch within 5 years tops with proprietary connectors/wiring so you can't replace them. And as far as upgrading, I wouldn't dare touch one of the new "mini" cases because you have to disassemble the whole thing just to replace a hard drive. The $300-400 was just a good baseline, but I'm still saving hundreds over what Bestbuy charges for similar rigs from Dell and Asus.

I don't really need that much sound quality right now, but with 1TB+ drives getting so cheap and internet being so fast, I wouldn't be surprised if everything goes lossless before 2020.