Is my build ok?

Solution
1. Id get 2133 RAM for $5 more.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820226420

2. The WD Blue is almost the slowest HDs THG has on the charts.... 63rd out if 65. Go from 63rd place to 1st place for $22 ... 2.5 times faster for loading ya games.

http://www.tomshardware.com/charts/hdd-charts-2013/-17-PCMark-7-Gaming,2915.html
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822178381

3. I'd wait for the non reference 980s.

4. Ridiculously priced PSU with 9.5 Build Quality rating from jonnyguru saves ya $60
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438028

5. I like the 820 but the Phanteks Primo has more features and is same price.... it also comes with 5 fans to the 820s 2.....and frankly...
Made a few changes.
Better motherboard, MSI has some poor QC.
Cheaper, and higher quality SSD.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($338.95 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($93.70 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus Z97-A ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($137.99 @ NCIX US)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($149.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($154.99 @ B&H)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($56.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 980 4GB Video Card ($559.98 @ NCIX US)
Case: NZXT Phantom 820 (Black) ATX Full Tower Case ($234.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: XFX ProSeries 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($80.99 @ NCIX US)
Optical Drive: Asus BC-12B1ST/BLK/B/AS Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer ($57.31 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 - 64-bit (OEM) (64-bit) ($90.26 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: BenQ XL2411Z 144Hz 24.0" Monitor ($255.31 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: Corsair Air Series AF120 Quiet Edition (2-Pack) 39.9 CFM 120mm Fans ($24.14 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Corsair Air Series AF120 Quiet Edition (2-Pack) 39.9 CFM 120mm Fans ($24.14 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Corsair Air Series AF120 Quiet Edition (2-Pack) 39.9 CFM 120mm Fans ($24.14 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Cooler Master Megaflow 110.0 CFM 200mm Fan ($8.99 @ Newegg)
Case Fan: Cooler Master Megaflow 110.0 CFM 200mm Fan ($8.99 @ Newegg)
Keyboard: Razer Blackwidow Ultimate 2014 Wired Gaming Keyboard ($107.99 @ NCIX US)
Mouse: Razer Ouroboros Wireless Laser Mouse ($130.28 @ NCIX US)
Other: Office 365 ($70.00)
Total: $2584.10
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-09-26 23:13 EDT-0400
 
1. Id get 2133 RAM for $5 more.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820226420

2. The WD Blue is almost the slowest HDs THG has on the charts.... 63rd out if 65. Go from 63rd place to 1st place for $22 ... 2.5 times faster for loading ya games.

http://www.tomshardware.com/charts/hdd-charts-2013/-17-PCMark-7-Gaming,2915.html
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822178381

3. I'd wait for the non reference 980s.

4. Ridiculously priced PSU with 9.5 Build Quality rating from jonnyguru saves ya $60
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438028

5. I like the 820 but the Phanteks Primo has more features and is same price.... it also comes with 5 fans to the 820s 2.....and frankly those are more than enuff for a single 980
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854002
But this will usually come down to looks over features.

6. The Corsair fans just ain't "all that" ... see how they stack up in the chart here ... the NZXT is sized for 140s wherever ya can put a 120mm .... 4 LED colors to choose from (Blue, orange, red, white)
http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page7.html
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007998%20600035673%20600035592&IsNodeId=1&Description=Phanteks&name=140mm&Order=BESTMATCH

7. That's way way more fans than ya need for that little 980 :)
But some other 200m fans to look at .... note that the Cooler masters are extra thick an dmay cause issues in some cases.
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g36/c331/s1585/list/p1/Fans-12_Volt_Fans_-_LED_UV-200mm_x_25mm_LED_Fans-Page1.html

8. Might wanna look at the Cryorig R1.... given your component, case and fan colors, may be a bit more attractive
 
Solution

intelfanb0y

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What do you mean non reference?

 
Reference is the nVidia stock card.

Non-reference is everything else.

The 3rd party manufacturers generally release both types. With the 970, there are no reference cards, all the cards we have seen are customized versions with different properties, power delivery, voltage control, cooling, clocks etc. Looking at the reviews, I'd rank them MSI > Gigabayte > Asus > EVGA with the EVGA actually being defective. MSI gets the nod for having far better componentry and construction, the power delivery system is 6+2 which is more than anyone else, and they took extra steps not only to provide better chokes and capacitors but too cool them as well.

With the 980, every vendor's card is exactly the same. No custom PCB's, no beefed up voltage controller, no advanced cooling systems, no better caps or chokes. The non-reference cards, because of those type of changes, run cooler, overclock better and are quieter.



 
Again the 750 RM is strongly advised against because of the cheap capacitors. If you must have something that says Corsair on it, you'll want the HX or AX series, or if you can find it, a TX V2 series. You are paying more than twice as much for an inferior product with well known issues .... JG Build Quality 8.5 ... the EVGA is 9.5 and less than half the cost

http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story5&reid=369

Gag. Most of the output filtering on this unit uses Ltec capacitors. That's not tier one or even tier two for me... that's just about bottom rung. Remember that great big deal about ten years ago where some company started using a flawed electrolyte formula, and they started failing left and right? That was Ltec, right in the middle of it.....

....right out of the gate, I'm taking away the full point for capacitors. Ltec, schmelltec. I'm also taking half a point for the burns on the Nichicon on the VRM board

Build Quality 8.5


Your MoBo will require you to buy a Haswell CPU, install it, update the BIOS so you can handle your Devils Canyon CPU. Get the Z97 version if you don't want to do that.

I don't see the slower memory from a lesser brand for just about the same price....while faster memory doesn't help in some games.... in others it increases speeds up to 11% .... most are in the 2-5% and for $7, its a worthwhile investment.

http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-motherboard-maximusviiformula

If you are using the M6F / M7F Mobo that you have selected, I would strongly advise you to grab that Swiftech H220-X .... not only will it cool your CPU, but the MoBo block that adds $50 to the price of your MoBo will just go to waste.

As for the fans ... my PC is OC'd to 4.6 Ghx and the two 780 GFX cards are OC'd by 26%....you can not tell if the PC is on or off using your ears and that is under fill stress testing. I have 10 Phanteks fans (5 case fans and 5 radiator fans and not a whisper....I a\have 5 more rad fans to add when I get some time.

If you go with the Swiftech, that adds two fans to the top so you can eliminate those

Well these are already there.... I see no need to replace them at this time, if you find them noise, replace later

Front: 1x 200mm (Included)
Rear: 1x 140mm (included) or 1x 120mm height adjustable
Side: 1x 200mm (included)

Replace this with the Swiftech H220-X
Top: 2x 200mm (One included) or 2x 140mm or 3x 120mm

That leaves
Bottom: 2x 140mm or 2x 120mm
Pivot: 1x 140mm or 1x 120mm internal pivot fan

I'd use 3 Phanteks 140s .... but again, I'd wait till you see if you actually need more fans.
 
PSU: Choices

EVGA G2 750 (10 year warranty) - $100 10.0 Performance / 9.5 Build Quality
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story6&reid=380
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438017

EVGA B2 (5 year warranty) 9.0 Performance / 9.5 Build Quality
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story6&reid=393
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438028

What other MoBo are you considering ? I just suggested that you use the Swiftech H220-X to cool your CPU and the MoBo Waterblock ... grab the H220-X and then it's a simple task to add the MoBo to the cooling lopp and later, even the GFX card(s)
H220-X-800_w_600.jpg


http://www.swiftech.com/H220-X.aspx

http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/cooling/liquid/40870-swiftech-h220-x-open-loop-240mm-cpu-cooler-review?showall=&start=3

For those in the loop (pun intended), the H220X has been highly anticipated and with good reason. Many looking to delve into the world of liquid cooling start out with a unit that is ready-to-go right out of the box, simply because the idea of setting up a loop can be a little daunting. However, with a CLC you are limited to only what it is, and only the performance it can deliver as assembled. With that in mind, the H220X makes infinitely more sense as a starting point into liquid cooling. It is ready to go out of the box and requires no maintenance, but it is also fully expandable when you are ready to take the next step. Even if you aren’t looking to take the next step, the H220X outperforms every CLC on the market, and does it at more than 20 dB quieter. Plus, it actually looks like an open loop cooler, simply because it is one.

While the H220X is an obvious choice for the novice, it also has some incredible benefits for the enthusiast looking to do a smaller loop. When you break it down, the H220X is a collection of excellent components that simply happen to come in one box. The included Apogee XL is top notch, and recently took home a Hi Tech Legion Gold Award. The MCP30 pump has a head pressure of over 2 meters, with over 1GPM flow and PWM control, making it a perfect choice for a 3-4 component loop. The radiator is an excellent quality copper/brass piece that delivers excellent low rpm performance, and the attached reservoir is easily accessible. 3/8” ID tubing is used throughout, and there is plenty of length to simply make one cut to add a GPU in most builds. In other words, you have a small loop in a box with every component being top quality, and may be the same components you would have been looking at in the first place.

Installation of the H220X was very easy, probably the easiest liquid cooler I have ever done. A huge part of this is thanks to the use of the Apogee XL block, which is a flagship top tier block and has a mounting system fitting of that stature. I had noted just how easy the install was when I reviewed the block alone, and comparing it to the Asetek/CoolIt/etc. kits, it is absolutely a world better. The radiator/pump/reservoir assembly go in simply with fan screws to your desired location in the case. The PWM splitter is as easy as it gets, and takes absolutely all of the guesswork out of the wiring setup.

In terms of performance, well….we could simply leave it at the fact that the H220X is simply the best performing out-of-the-box cooler you can buy today. Period. It slightly betters its predecessor, the H220, as well as the Glacer 240L that is equipped with far more powerful and louder fans. The NZXT X60/61 comes close in terms of performance, but at the expense of far more noise and far less compatibility. 240mm CLCs can’t touch the H220X in all out performance, and at tolerable noise levels the H220X flat out embarrasses them. The Cryorig R1 and Noctua NH-D15 come closest in matching the H220X in terms of performance and noise, but fall short. What more can you say? We put the best out of the box solutions up against the H220X, and the H220X walked away a clear winner and did so with absolutely astonishing performance to noise. With all of this performance the H220X never topped 40 dB at full speed.

While the wait for the H220X after the tease at CES seemed like a lifetime, there is no doubt it was worth the wait. Frankly, given the quality and performance here, there is no doubt that forcing this redesign by pulling the H220 off the shelves was a blessing to consumers. Even if it only meant getting the Apogee XL included, the performance and aesthetic benefits of that alone are huge. The result of this redesign makes the H220X the best performing cooler that is install ready right out of the box. There is not a 240mm CLC or air cooler that can beat it, and it does it at 20+ dB quieter than the competing CLCs. To sum it up; the H220X offers better performance, lower noise, better aesthetics, flawless design and build, better components and the option of expandability when compared to a CLC. Putting it gently, choosing any CLC over the H220X would be doing yourself a huge disservice. If you are looking to step into liquid cooling, or looking to start a small loop, the H220X is the obvious choice and comes with our highest recommendation and Hi Tech Legion Editor’s Choice Award.

As for the fans.....

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007998%20600035673%20600035592&IsNodeId=1&Description=Phanteks&name=140mm&Order=BESTMATCH


 
Like I said, I have 10 Phanteks fans installed running off (2) Phanteks Fan Controller PCBs. I can not tell if the machine is on as it is dead silent. The fans run from 325 to 850 rpm under stress testing an make no sound and that is with the case side panel removed.

You do have a 980 refernce card in there and they don't have any of the advanced features of the non refernce cards. MSI for example has a feature that shuts off the fan at like 60C so it can't make any sound because it isb't moving. I expect ytou will har the reference card fan when playing games or stress testing.

You will also hear the Noctua fans on the CPU cooler.....

Might wanna read this thread but this is not "typical" .... but still the Noctua fans are audible.

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/2314752/last-read
 
I'm not Knocking the Noctua's CPU cooler fans, they're not as good as the Phanteks but have comparable noise levels. They top the Nocs by 3C while spinning 300 rpm slower. But you can hear any CPU cooler when the CPU is overclocked and under full load.

Still the Phanteks are close enough to the PH-TC14-PE that I wouldn't quibble over the Phanteks small advantage. The reason I use the Phanteks is more that the Noc is fugly and more expensive

If you are not overclocking you don't need a CPU cooler, The Phanteks comes in multiple colors

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100006519%2050060115%2040000574%20600035315%20600035399&IsNodeId=1&Manufactory=60115&name=Variable&SpeTabStoreType=1


As for Fan Controllers, they best one made comes free with the Phanteks cases. I prefer the type that do all the work automatically and don't require user intervention like the Sentry series.

This one is unique in the industry and takes the PWM signal from your MoBo and sends it to up to 11 3-pin fans allowing your MoBo to control fan speeds automatically. I have 3 of them in my csse.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811984004

If you want one that you adjust with your fingers, I'd grab the Reeven Six Eyes2

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/25172/bus-393/Reeven_Six_Eyes_II_30W_6_Channel_Fan_Controller_Temp_Sensor_-_Black_RFC-02.html
 
I can only give you the information you need to make a decision, that decision on how you spend ya money is up to you.

I can tell you that every person for whom I built a computer who said they didn't wanna overclock, did eventually overclock.

Fan Hub just does what MoBo tells it to. Your MoBo has incredible Fan Control via FanXpert2. You have something like 4 or 6 PWM headers on that board. You prolly use CPU-1 and CPU-2 for the CPU cooler.

That leaves you at least 4 free PWM headers and 4 separate controllers.... if you have 4 fans, you don't need anything else. If you want to combine 2 fans on one header that's fine, you can use these:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812987007

That will cover 8 fans.... set them up in BIOS as DC Voltage copntrol

Or just use one header, and use PWM with the PCB on one header and have the single header control everything:

So....

Option 1 = Header (PWM) => PCB => Up to 6 Phanteks fans (No extra power needed)

Option 2 = Header (PWM) => PCB => Up to 11 Phanteks fans (must connect SATA power cable that comes w/ PCB)

Option 3:

Header 1 > Splitter => 2 Fans
Header 2 > Splitter => 2 Fans
Header 3 > Splitter => 2 Fans
Header 4 > Splitter => 2 Fans

OH, BTW,

1. You have a Z87 MoBo.... to install a 4790k (Devils Canyon) , you will need a Haswell CPU to boot up the machine and install the DC BIOS, then you can take out the Haswell CPU and install the 4790k. To avoid this buy the Maximus VII Formula I linked to previously.

http://pcpartpicker.com/part/asus-motherboard-maximusviiformula

2. You don't need TIM, it comes with the cooler.

3. You have a black case, with red / white highlights on ya components and black / white fans w. Red LEDs .... therefore instead of the Blue Cooler ... ya may wanns think about having too many colors in there.... maybe look at the Red, Black and White Ones.

35-709-001-V01


35-709-011-TS


35-709-004-TS


Side View ...

index.php


I have seen the white one in the white case and it looked hawwwwt !
 

intelfanb0y

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I changed CPU cooler to red very good observation.
I changed motherboard to the one you suggested thanks a lot for pointing that it would have been a pain in the a** changing it.
I added fan hub and watched some videos to understand FanXpert2 way easier than controlling it manually.
I removed thermal compound.
P.S i know fan hub is not necessary if i have 4 fans but if i want to add more the fan hub will come in handy.