Wireless Bridge w/ Optimum Sagecom Route

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Optimum provides a free Sagemcom wireless router (F@st 3965 CV) but hosts the configuration via web and then pushes the data to the device which limits flexibility. I want to add a wireless bridge to allow wireless to the 2nd floor of my house so I just picked up TRENDnet TEW-810DR (AC750). However, it appears I need to enable WDS mode but that would force me to use a WDS router and WDS devices. Would both routers need to know about each other? If so, it sounds like I won't be able to use the Sagecom as I don't have access to change that configuration. Are all devices WDS enabled? If so, I could just get another TRENDNET and get rid of the Sagemcom. Should I look for a router that doesn't force WDS and WDS devices?

Note: Before configuring WDS, please ensure the following first:
1. Make sure different IP addresses are assigned to each WDS supported wireless device used for bridging. (ex. 192.168.10.1,192.168.10.2, 192.168.10.3) to avoid IP address conflict. See page 34 for changing the LAN IP address.
2. If you are using more than one WDS supported router, please make sure the LAN DHCP server is enabled on only one and disabled on all others to avoid IP address conflict. See page 35 for DHCP server options.
3. Configure the same wireless channel and use the same on all WDS supported wireless devices. See page 20 for configuring basic wireless settings.
4. Configure the same wireless security and key on all WDS supported devices. See page 15 for configuring wireless security settings.
To configure WDS bridging between TEW-810DRU routers:
1. Log into your router management page (see “Access your router management page” on page 15).
2. Click on the Advanced tab.
3. Select wireless band you would like to configure, Wireless 2.4GHz or Wireless 5GHz and click on WDS.
4. Select Enable for WDS and enter the MAC address of the other WDS supported wireless device you are bridging next to AP MAC Address field. (e.g. 00:11:22:AA:BB:CC). To save settings, click Apply.
For additional routers, make sure to disable the DHCP server first on all additional routers and configure the LAN IP address to be different on each router. You will connect devices to the LAN ports 1-4 only on all additional routers and the WAN port is not used. Then, repeat the steps for additional routers you are bridging.
 
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ronintexas
The rumor mill has 1Gbps internet across the nation within the next 4 years. If you live in or near a major metro area - chances are you will have these speeds shortly. In Austin, TX where I live, TWC has gone from 50Mpbs max to 300Mpbs max - and the 1Gbps is on the horizon. AT&T is going 1Gpbs, Google Fiber is going live, Grande Communications is 1Gbps. San Antonio, Dallas & Houston have all made announcements. I have been keeping up with news in Las Vegas, both Cox Communications and Century Link have announced the higher speeds.

Prices did not increase....

Remember - the powerline connections are max possible, you probably won't get 100% of the bandwidth. 10/100 is a big difference from 10/100/1000.....
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ronintexas

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First thing - I wouldn't use a router that forces WDS....too much of a security risk.

For best results - if you can run an Ethernet cable from the first router to the second router, and enable the second router as an access point, you would get better results. Setting them up in bridge mode eats your wireless bandwidth (the routers are talking to each other and consumer quite a bit of the bandwidth). If you can't get a cable run - you might want to try a powerline adapter to run from the first to the second....

In complex LAN setups, I usually reserve IP addresses for the routers using their MAC addresses and only allow DHCP to use 192.168.0.101-192.168.0.255 (all IP addresses 192.168.0.1 - 192.168.0.100 would be reserved for manual reservations).

Make sure you setup WPA2 security with a good key for your network - you don't want to be hacked. Second - make sure the SSID of the wireless routers are different - if you have to troubleshoot connections - you want to know which is which....
 
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Please explain. Per the documentation, security can still be used. I am not TOO concerned with this given where I live but, you never know.



I can't get an ethernet cable but need to extend my wireless to the 1st and 3rd floors of my house. I have 50-100MB down via speedtest.net so I am not concerned about speed. However, it must be able to support streaming of my blu-ray via my HTPC. I guess I am still confused about the differences between bridge vs. repeater. Are my only choices a bridge, adding another wired AP, or a powerline adapter (not sure what that is yet) my only choices?



I have a few reserved IP addresses and some of my devices (phones, wireless printer, etc.), I just allow the router to assign.



I use WPA + WPA2 security but not sure what "encryption" type as Optimum hides those details within configuration screen. Should I just use WPA? I guess I could just use WPA and see if any legacy devices complain. I use a different SSID for 2.4 and 5G to ensure I know what network my device is connected to. I wanted the main router and bridge (or other AP) to use the same SSID so the devices would seamlessly switch as they move around the house.
 
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ronintexas

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For network security, WPA2 is the best for home wireless - WPA and WDS both can be hacked easily.

An access point takes signal from an ethernet cable and broadcasts wi-fi signal (this is the best - only communication is with the computers via wi-fi). Bridge mode and repeaters communicate with the first router and all computers. So to get an internet signal, your computer talks to the router, which talks to the other router, receives communication back and then sends it back to the computer. This is done wireless - which has a bigger limitation of bandwidth as compared to the 1GB ethernet connection.

WPA and WPA2 difference is the length of the encryption. WPA2 is more secure, but uses more bandwidth (because of the better encryption). I use WPA2 - and I also only allow connections from MAC addresses I approve. This way - even if someone were to hack WPA2, they wouldn't be able to connect because of the MAC address filter.
 
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ronintexas

ronintexas

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In my house, I have 2 routers - both using 2.5 and 5Ghz. I place a different SSID for each, so I know if I which router I am connecting to, and which frequency (5Ghz is preferred, and the closest router preferred). You can apply the same passcode for each - and if you setup all 4 networks on a device (my phones, tablets, laptops and other wi-fi devices EXCEPT for my Chromecast) all remember and support multiple networks. When one drops, it automatically connects to the next.
 
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Thanks. Personal or Enterprise? AES or TKIP encryption type?



What's the difference between bridge and repeater? Given the difficulty with connecting the routes, I need to do this wirelessly.



Different SSID for the routes or the 2.5 vs. 5GHZ? How are the routers connected? I find it odd how difficult it is to get a simple multiple AP setup using wireless.
 
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ronintexas

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Personal WPA2 is fine (unless you are dealing with top secret stuff and the government requires the other encryption algorithms....)

A bridge and a repeater are virtually the same.

I use an ethernet cable to connect the two routers. In a pinch, you can try a powerline adapter (they are about $50 - you can find them at most computer stores - even Best Buy). Basically - you connect ethernet from router #1 to the powerline adapter, plug it into the wall. Then go to the location of router #2, plug an ethernet cable in and plug that one in the wall. Most pair up automatically. They range from 100Mbps to 500Mbps - and give a solid connection.

I use different SSIDs because I couldn't figure out why my laptop was so slow all the time - it was picking the 2.5GHz as the preferred network, but when I manually forced the 5GHz network - it connects at a higher speed. I only setup the 5GHz networks for the laptop, so it is always on the better connection. I don't care which my phones connect on....
 
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Is router #2 basically an AP with DHCP disabled? Would I have to use a different SSID at router #2? This sounds exactly what I need. What's the catch?
 
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ronintexas

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That is correct. You do not have to use a different SSID - but again, I would recommend it - just so you know which router you are connected to. If they are both the same SSID - you won't know which it is. When I walk around the house with my phone - it automatically switches to the new network when it needs to - or if the connection is shaky - I can force the switch.
 
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I see. You have profiles for each SSID and the device switches over. The only issue I can see is if the connection sucks it might still hold onto it. Or, would the device find the more powerful signal and just switch to that SSID?



First, thank you for the help.

I think this might work as a solution but I I think I need a new router. My TRENDnet AC750 maxes at 150MB on the 5GHZ channel so something isn't right.

The powerline solutions are affordable. However, how do they claim 500MBS on a 10/100 input? For example, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833704165

Should I get one that supports gigabyte? My D/L speed is currently 50-60MBS but I COULD get 100MBS but don't think I need it. I do stream blu-ray within the house.
 
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ronintexas

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If your internet speed is 50Mpbs, the kit you selected is good (over 100Mbps won't speed up anything). They have 10/100/1000: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1EA1ET9791

The 10/100/1000 is about $90 on average, the 10/100 is about $50.

This is something I wouldn't spend more than $100 on - as when you get to about $150, you can pay a contractor to come in and professionally install ethernet in your walls to get a great connection ($150 per line run).
 
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What benefit(s) would I get for the 1000 powerline? Just file transfers? That link above is currently on sale for $60 but a 10/100MB version is only $25. I don't care too much about the money if there is a benefit.
 
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ronintexas

ronintexas

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The rumor mill has 1Gbps internet across the nation within the next 4 years. If you live in or near a major metro area - chances are you will have these speeds shortly. In Austin, TX where I live, TWC has gone from 50Mpbs max to 300Mpbs max - and the 1Gbps is on the horizon. AT&T is going 1Gpbs, Google Fiber is going live, Grande Communications is 1Gbps. San Antonio, Dallas & Houston have all made announcements. I have been keeping up with news in Las Vegas, both Cox Communications and Century Link have announced the higher speeds.

Prices did not increase....

Remember - the powerline connections are max possible, you probably won't get 100% of the bandwidth. 10/100 is a big difference from 10/100/1000.....
 
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