Setting up new home network with 2 wireless access points and wired connections

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Yafahayb

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Moved into a new, larger house last month. This weekend I started the process of running cat6 cables to eventually set up home network. I have two diagrams of possible setups but am not sure which one is best or if either one will even work. If possible, I’d like to use the equipment I already have (3 Linksys E2000 routers with 3db external antennas) but am willing to buy new equipment as necessary. I know just enough to be dangerous but can follow specific instructions.

Background: For the past month I have been getting by with Suddenlink cable modem connected to a Linksys e2000 router in the family room. Wifi works great in the family room which is adjacent to the router. Both my Samsung smart TV and home theater are able to connect and stream Netflix without any problems. All 4 members of the household hang out in the family room surfing the web and streaming video (3 iPads, 1 Kindle Fire, 2 iPhones). If more than 2 people are on Netflix then the movies seem to slow down and get jerky but I think that is entirely a function of my Internet service plan (30 Mbs) and not the fault of my router. Biggest problem, to me, is that I get spotty signal in the bedroom wing on one end and the upstairs bonus room in the other end (where we all stream video to the TV). I’ve tried placing a Linksys RE1000 range extenders at each end to help. Overall size and layout of house, combined with large double-sided brick fireplace are all limiting wifi range.

END GOALS:
• Be able to walk anywhere in the house without dropping wifi signal on my iPad.
• Be able to print to HP printer in office from anywhere in the house (regardless of wired –vs- wifi). The printer is AirPrint compatible but I haven’t set it up yet.

My initial thought was to run cat5e cable to each end of the house and connect them to two Linksys E2000 routers that function as wireless access points. From these access points I would wire drops to office and desk areas. That option is shown here:
idkZFAk4j

https://imageshack.com/i/idkZFAk4j

After doing more research I am confused if this plan would work. Not sure if I should do LAN to LAN or LAN to WAN. I do not even know if the other LAN ports on the back of the E2000 will function if I set them up as access points.

My second scenario is to use the E2000s as access points and also install a 8 port switch to cover all the extra wired connections. That option is shown here:
p10hljGPj

https://imageshack.com/i/p10hljGPj

With this option I am not sure if I could print to the office printer (which will be wired to the switch) from an iPad connected via wi-fi to one of the access points.

As you can tell I am confused about best way to set this up.

Suggestions???

Once you guys and gals explain it to me I think I can follow instructions in **The Ultimate Model/Router Setup Thread** that is a sticky on this forum.

Thanks,

YAFAHAYB

 
Solution
B
You have to read the specs on the switch. What you are looking for are one that claim bandwidth of 2x number ports x gig. Ie a 8 port switch should have 16g of bandwidth. This makes it able to run all ports at 1g up and 1g down simultaneously. You would have to have a very special application transferring data between machines INSIDE your house for it really to make much difference. Still you might as well get a switch that claims these rates many times they use the word non blocking or wirespeed also. Only a small handful of brands do not use the chipset that can run wirespeed.

I would also recommend using the switch just because it is a cleaner design but performance wise it likely makes no difference at all.

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maestro0428

maestro0428

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Well, I think I may be a bit confused, you are using multiple routers? Are they set up as repeaters? I live in a smallish house, with a simpler network than I have ever run, but Ill tell you what I did for example. My cable modem is in the back of my basement storage area which runs Cat6 up a floor to my wifi router, an ASUS triple N, I forget what model, on the main floor and then to wired locations around the house using Cat6. Now I run mostly wired because the wifi can get bogged down and I like to control the traffic so my games are interrupted by Netflix/Hulu. Because the router is so powerful, it reaches easily to the basement, first and second floors as well as on my patio and deck. Heck, I can get a signal at my neighbors no problem. My point is, one router, if good enough, should do it unless you have a really big house. Then just add a repeater in between any dead spots and the router. Ive had customers that couldn't get signals 30 ft from their routers though. Is that router AC? You may want to consider that. I know I am as I finally have lappies/phones that can use it. All that said, I would go with the 8 port switch option. I used to run multiple switches in a similar manner. Hopefully that helps.
 
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Yafahayb

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The Linksys E2000 is a/b/g/n. None of my equipment works on AC band. House is bigger than our last but not huge. I think problem is the large brick double sided fireplace with a chimney that extends through the roof. Also, the router is blocked by fridge and double oven so signal can not get to bedroom wing. Range extenders helped somewhat but I figured it would be better to run some spare routers my brother gave me to a spot in the insulated attic that will be very close to where we need the wifi signal. I'm comfortable with the second setup but do not know if I'll be able to wirelessly print with that configuration.
 
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maestro0428

maestro0428

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Reusing equipment=awesome. Now if you can use those routers as repeaters, I think you are good. Im no network expert, but if you can repurpose them, go for it. As long as your printer can hear any of the wifi signals and so can your device, you are good. Ill keep an eye on this as I am interested to see how it goes.
 
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digitaldoc

digitaldoc

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I would use CAT 5e cable as it is less expensive, supports Gigabit speeds, and not as thick.

I think the 2nd plan with the 8 port switch is the preferred one. While your first schematic may work, the one with the switch directing the traffic is more stable.

I have a Linksys e2000 router. I think they are fine as your secondary AP's, but would use something more recent as your main router. I find its speeds are good, but the range is less than other gear.
 
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Yafahayb

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Do you have any recommendations for a switch or are they all pretty much the same as long as they can handle gigabit speeds .
 
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bill001g

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You have to read the specs on the switch. What you are looking for are one that claim bandwidth of 2x number ports x gig. Ie a 8 port switch should have 16g of bandwidth. This makes it able to run all ports at 1g up and 1g down simultaneously. You would have to have a very special application transferring data between machines INSIDE your house for it really to make much difference. Still you might as well get a switch that claims these rates many times they use the word non blocking or wirespeed also. Only a small handful of brands do not use the chipset that can run wirespeed.

I would also recommend using the switch just because it is a cleaner design but performance wise it likely makes no difference at all.

Most better routers have a small 5 port gig switch chip in them. You would think of this as a 1 port router with a external switch. The traffic between the lan machines does not go to the router chip. So if your main router happen to have a 8 port switch built in it would be very similar in design to what you have drawn using a external switch.

Running them daisy chained though multiple devices does add some tiny fraction of a millisecond but you likely can not actually measure. If you can afford the extra $50 for a switch it is a better simpler design if not it will likely work just as well without.
 
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bill001g

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A note on your wanting to
"Be able to walk anywhere in the house without dropping wifi signal on my iPad"

This goal unfortunately is not possible. In the very best case when it would switch from one AP to the other you will get a very short drop of a couple seconds. It must reauthenticate and renegotiate the keys with the new AP. What tends to happen is the device will stay associated with the first AP it connects to even though it has a much better signal available. You could place it directly on top of the other AP and it will not switch over. It tends to only switch when it completely loses the signal. Not sure how you change this behavior on a mac, on a PC some wireless nic cards have a setting called roaming aggressiveness. Problem is if you set it too aggressive it will jump back and forth causing small outages each time.

There is no good solution to this problem. Commercial AP load special drivers into a end device so a central controller can manage the transition between AP similar to how a cell tower controls your phone switching. This works better but as we all know using cell towers you can many times still drop calls when it switches and these systems have similar issues.
 
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Robrertjhonson

Robrertjhonson

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Once you know what type of network you want and have the necessary hardware, there are four possible steps to take:

1. Install any necessary hardware.

2. Set up an Internet connection (optional).

3. Connect the computers.

4. Run the Set Up a Wireless Router or Access Point wizard (wireless only).
 
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digitaldoc

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I would just look for an 8 port switch, with Gigabit ports from a manufacturer you have heard of. They are pretty affordable and you won't find many differences between them.
 
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