First Time Builder $3000+ rig ON/OFF cycling

jhalfhill

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Oct 12, 2014
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Hey everyone... Total noob here just finished my first PC build ever. Completely new to PC building so bare with me please. Use will be for playing racing sim games and gopro video editing. See Specs below

Cooler Master HAF X case
Asus X99-Deluxe
i7 5820K
Corsair H100i cpu cooler
Samsung 850 Pro 512GB SSD
Corsair Platinum Dominator DDR4 32GB 2666 Mhz
Cooler Master Silent Pro 1000W
EVGA GTX 780 superclocked
Aerocool 2100 fan controller
Thunderbolt EX II card
Pioneer Blu Ray burner
Windows 8.1 Pro
(3) 22.5" Lenovo Monitors

Build seemed to go smooth at first. Got everything up and running. Updated drivers, installed Windows 8.1 Pro. Used the Asus EZ TUNE software to overclock. All it did was increase the bsclk from 100 to 102. System crashed about 20 minutes later. Reset CMOS on the motherboard. Started back up, ran fine for 10 minutes, then powered off on its own. Tried to turn back on and everything starts for about 2-3 seconds (fans, leds, post beep) then the computer shuts down. It will try to restart doing this over and over until i unplug it from the wall. Things I have tried so far after searching Tom's Hardware....

1. Uninstalled Ram & reinstalled
2. Uninstalled GPU & reinstalled
3. Reset Bios
4. performed paperclip test on PSU (passed)

I have not taken the cpu cooler off and checked it yet though. Thought maybe the CPU was heating up too much and system was shutting down to prevent damage but how could it overheat in 2 seconds?

Not sure what steps to take next... Frustrated....Any help greatly appreciated!
 
Solution


How did you figure out it was the motherboard?
1/ possible faulty power supply
2/ a short from the mb to the case . Check the standoffs are in the correct locations and a stray one is not touching the back of the board
3/ faulty case power or reset button . Disconnect both and try to start with the onboard power button if there is one , or by briefly shorting the front power button pins together with the tip of a screwdriver
 

Rookie_MIB

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I would...

Remove everything you can, take it down to a very bare system, the minimum needed. That would mean the following:

Motherboard. Power supply. SSD. CPU. 2 sticks of ram. Integrated graphics only. See if you can boot up and keep the system running. Also, remove and reseat the CPU, make sure the thermal paste is applied properly and the heatsink is on correctly.

If it boots up and remains stable, then start putting things back in one at a time. I would start with the lowest power parts first, then slowly add things until it either works correctly, or fails. If or when it fails, then you probably have the culprit.
 

jhalfhill

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Oct 12, 2014
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I have completed # 2. Standoffs are good. NO extras.
Going to borrow a multimeter tonight and check PSU again
Looks like I may try a rebuild as Rookie_MIB suggested with minimal parts to try to pin point which piece of hardware is the problem.

 

Rookie_MIB

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Yup - multi-meter the PSU and make sure it's coming on right. What you need to do with that is on the 24pin connector, take a paperclip and jump the green wire pin (psu on) with any black wire (ground). This is the 'on' signal, and will turn on the psu out of the case so you can check voltages on the connectors. Of course, make sure the plug is in it as well... ;)

Then, assuming voltages are correct, run through what I suggested.
 

jhalfhill

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Oct 12, 2014
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Checked the PSU. Jumped just as Rookie_MIB suggested. Yellow wire 12.10 volts. Red wire 5.10 volts. Orange wire 3.35 volts. That looks right on to me.

On to the teardown. Will have to install the graphics card because no onboard graphics for this motherboard.
 

jhalfhill

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Oct 12, 2014
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Alright after teardown and minimal rebuild still powers on and off. Used the onboard power on MB so no case button issues. The CPU Led on the MB is red so I know the issue is there.

I pulled the water cooler and chip. Inspected socket, cpu, water cooler plate etc... All looked okay, of course I am new to this so my untrained eye could have missed something. Put back together tried again and same result, powers on then off and continues this cycle along with the CPU Led being red, until I pull the plug out.

Again cleared the CMOS while everything was powered down. Also tried to reflash bios using USB Flashback on the motherboard. Don't know what to do now??? Any ideas.....
 

jhalfhill

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Oct 12, 2014
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It ended up being a bad motherboard. Had to RMA it. When i got the MB back and the H100i was screwed as well. Not sure if the MB was related to the H100i or not. Sent the H100i back. And in the meantime picked up a Swiftech H240X watercooler which I love way better than the H100i. Also got another GTX 780.
 

sethwilliam

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Mar 23, 2013
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How did you figure out it was the motherboard?
 
Solution

jhalfhill

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Oct 12, 2014
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I finally only hooked up the MB to the power supply only with nothing else and tried to POST but it would not. Finally got an IT guy at work to let me bring in the power supply and he tested it on his home Rig. THe power supply worked fine on his rig so it had to be the MB. Once the new board came back and i reinstalled the h100i would not spin the fans for the cooler and the LED on the pump would flicker for a few seconds and then go out. So I just boxed it up and sent it back :-( I did not have a good experience with the H100i.
 

sethwilliam

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Mar 23, 2013
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Oh thats good to know, I was considering a H100i now I am having second thoughts. Sorry it turned out like this for you and I hope you get your new parts quickly.
I know what its like to get faulty equipment, hate the waiting.
Good luck

 

jhalfhill

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Oct 12, 2014
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sethwilliam..My experience with the Swiftech H240x is limited but so far I love it. Seems much more robust than the corsair unit. I would recommend checking it out. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pt5_dU-15v8 Here is a link to the review.