Green & gold interior watercooling build tacky?

Phallicopter

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Hi, doing a watercooling build. When i bought my components i wasn't thinking about watercooling, so therefore no colour coordination with tubing or fittings. I've got an Asus Z87 Pro with gold Geil Enhance Veloce ram so gold heatsinks and gold ram.
I've bought upto now a an Xspc vario d5 pump and res, xspc razor gtx 680 gpu block, raystorm cpu block and an st30 240mm alphacool rad and an xt45 120mm alphacool rad. I can't go any thicker than 30mm on the 240, my case is a 600t. First watercooling build not gonna start cutting bits off the case, i've done enough research to know the 240 and 120 are enough to cool 1 gtx 680 and an i7-4790k.
My question is if i change the leds on the blocks and res to green and go for green uv tubing with gold monsoon free centre fittings and green cathodes will it look crappy/tacky? I'm not an Arab (reference to green and gold) btw just trying to look for a way to go coordinated there are no pictures i can find with green/gold interior. Anyone seen a green and gold build?
Also will the leds on the blocks dull the uv on the tubing?

i7 4790k
asus z87-pro
geil enhance veloce 2x4gb ram
Corsair ax750
OCZ Vector 150 120GB ssd
wd red 2tb hdd
NZXT Sentry 3
4 x corsair sp120 quiet edition
1 x 200mm NZXT FS-200

Cheers
 
Solution
4790k = 135 watts overclocked
GTX 680 = 200 watts overclocked
Pump = 20 watts

355 watts x 60% = 213 watts for 10C target

A ST30 w/ 1000 rpm fans gives you 50 watts x 2 + 50 watts for the XT45 = 150 watts
A ST30 w/ 1400 rpm fans gives you 60 watts x 2 + 61 watts for the XT45 = 180 watts
A ST30 w/ 1800 rpm fans gives you 66 watts x 2 + 68 watts for the XT45 = 200 watts

The SP120s are at 1450 rpm max so you'll be at 182 watts or so....your Delta T will be about 12c

As for the color stuff I suggest you search the forums over at OCN for green / gold builds ... there's a few. I'd also check out the Mayems Users thread.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club...
4790k = 135 watts overclocked
GTX 680 = 200 watts overclocked
Pump = 20 watts

355 watts x 60% = 213 watts for 10C target

A ST30 w/ 1000 rpm fans gives you 50 watts x 2 + 50 watts for the XT45 = 150 watts
A ST30 w/ 1400 rpm fans gives you 60 watts x 2 + 61 watts for the XT45 = 180 watts
A ST30 w/ 1800 rpm fans gives you 66 watts x 2 + 68 watts for the XT45 = 200 watts

The SP120s are at 1450 rpm max so you'll be at 182 watts or so....your Delta T will be about 12c

As for the color stuff I suggest you search the forums over at OCN for green / gold builds ... there's a few. I'd also check out the Mayems Users thread.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club
http://www.overclock.net/t/916909/green-is-for-the-money-gold-is-for-the-honeys
http://www.overclock.net/t/1449770/bl-vl-gold-rush-the-voters-choice-build-750d-780ti-sli-delidding-sleeving-acrylic-tube-2x420-rads
http://www.overclock.net/t/1312335/build-log-smokey-green-giant-enermax-fulmo-gt-titan-sli


 
Solution

Phallicopter

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Lol i'm just asking for opinions and other people's views on it. I think it will look good! It will only cost an extra £10 to do to change the blue leds to green, i haven't bought fittings, tubing or sleeving yet. Was gonna throw some purple in there as well but not made my mind up yet. Like you say it's me who's gotta look at it mostly but if i'm gonna use it to try to get people i know to pay me to build a computer for them rather than going retail it has got to look good to other people! If i do a good job it might make people want to buy a new computer now rather than in 6 months! I've been building computers for 20 years but never tried to sell any to order!
I had a Green Bay Packers helmet and rain jacket as a kid, the helmet didn't do me any good seen as though American Football isn't played in England, £175 was a lot of money in 1986 for something that just sat there, it did look cool though!
 

Phallicopter

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Sep 25, 2014
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Thanks for the reply, are you letting me know that i'll be alright with what i've got?
If so thanks I hadn't actually made any calculations i only started overclocking on my last computer, I had a e8500 at 4.1ghz for a couple of months whilst buying components for new build. And like i said 1st watercooling. I did psu calculation and found i needed around 600 or there abouts at stock (accounting for age i'd read the quality depreciates over a period of years and i'm planning having this for a few) so thought 750 was safe. The radiators i couldn't find a straight answer anywhere after a ton of reading so i asked a couple of reviewers on youtube like jayztwocents and was told it was enough.

When i googled "green and gold interior computer" i got houses and xmas tree images!

Thanks for the links i can see with the lights the gold doesn't really stand out but black and gold looks good.

Cheers



 

Phallicopter

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Sep 25, 2014
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I'd love to go for rigid tubing but "simple" is the idea for my first watercooling build it looks a pain in the arse! Although i've seen an acrylic build with all angled tubing nobends at all and it looked good, every piece of tube started on the same level and on the same angle, the case had a raised floor.
I've been reading up on this and imagining what it will look like for a few months just need to get it finished. I wasn't supposed to be doing watercooling i'd already spent enough on the build i got a 27" 3d monitor as well. The first step was being offered the razor gpu block cheap.
Was gonna go with dyes and that aurora is mesmerizing better with a cylinder or clear bay res though but it's too much hassle i'm gonna use coloured tubing and distilled water with kill coil, or mayhems clear x1-t. The difference is changing once or twice a year, or 4 times! I do agree with you the clear tubing and coloured coolant would look better a lot advise against it though including people on here! To do with staining and gunking not my words i haven't a clue if it happens or not.
Gonna do gold/green or gold/black braiding only on the 24 and 6+2 pin cables though the rest can be hid.

Thanks for the help and suggestions.
 
I had fun .... and no, I haven't done my cables yet :)

20ded621_002.jpeg


 

Phallicopter

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I bet you did, Jesus, that's nice, maybe in the future for me!

I like to waste money i haven't got, literally it's not my money, just bought some avexir core venom ram so i think i'm gonna go with different coloured tubing maybe purple or white! I'm never gonna finish because i keep buying stuff i don't need and getting further in debt...does feel good though :)

That is nice i bet it set you back a fair bit! You got the cards on two separate things all symmetrical like, i bet the fittings alone cost as much as my watercooling components! Cables aren't noticeable because they are black they blend in, you doing red, black, or a mixture?
 

Phallicopter

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I bet a lot of blood, sweat n tears went into building that! I don't you blame you for not wanting to do the grind that is sleeving. If i was you after all that work i'd get some braided extensions just for graphics and 24pin power, the BitFenix Alchemy look real good quality and they do black and red! Cost is about £20 and it will save on bleeding/burning fingers :)

What are the red bits that look like a Lancashire rose? Two of them one above the other to the left of the res!

Is the same effect gained by fans sucking rather than blowing onto the radiator? I'm gonna have mine above the 240, the covered bit on top of the 600t is made for it. But when thinking in simple terms of heat, like when putting a match out you blow to extinguish the heat you don't suck! It's the same when you have a bowl of hot soup you blow to cool it down. Is it different with radiators or is it the power of the fans like how fast they suck that makes the difference?
 
I may have the folksies at FrozenCPU.com do them for me .... or Lutro.

Those are flow meters.

All rad fans blow INTO the case .... Just the way I like my wimmen / booze.... Tops Down / bottoms up :0

If doing push / pull your question is moot. If you asking push or pull, it is speed dependent.

http://martinsliquidlab.petrastech.com/Radiator-Fan-Orientation-And-Shroud-Testing-Review.html

The slow speed fans with 1350RPM with a 25mm fan thickness provided the best performance in a pull condition. I would estimate that performance line is likely to cross in the 1500-1700RPM range where they are equal. So.... slow speed = pull, high speed = push, medium speed = it doesn't really matter.