Is my PSU or Mobo dead?

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Alex Breen

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Oct 20, 2014
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Hello all,

I currently have an issue that I would appreciate greatly if someone would help me with.

Earlier today, I was playing Tomb Raider on my computer, specs are as follows.

AMD Quad core 3.8 GHz CPU

Coolermaster Elite 241 case with built in 550W PSU

1x8gb Corsair rage RAM

Sapphire Radeon 7950 HD GPU

Gigabyte Ultra Durable 4 Motherboard

All of a sudden, my computer just turned off. I was very puzzled by this so I decided to try and turn it back on. Nothing.

I figured that it was probably running hot, so I let it sit for 30~ minutes and tried again. Nothing.

At this point, I figured it to be a dead PSU. SO I did the paperclip test and to my luck, no fan was spinning. So I contacted Coolermaster and began an RMA, but I was just curious if I should RMA the Mobo too. The main reason being that the USB power to my keyboard was still working (Back light was on.)

Does anyone have any idea what I should do? I only have two days left in my warranty.

Thanks,

Alex.
 
Solution
Darkbreeze
What is the model number of the PSU? It should be on the unit itself. If it's a poor quality CM unit I wouldn't recommend spending the 15-20 bucks it will take to send it to them. It may be better spent just getting a quality PSU. Almost every pre-built PC or cases that come with a PSU installed are cheap units. You don't want to use them with your relatively expensive investment in hardware. You've already experienced how quickly a cheap PSU can fail and you're lucky if it didn't take any other hardware out with it.

If the led's on hardware connected to the motherboard are still lit, there's a good chance the mobo is fine. If you send it in and there's nothing wrong, you're going to be paying out of pocket for shipping both ways.

You...
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Darkbreeze

Darkbreeze

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Jun 24, 2014
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What is the model number of the PSU? It should be on the unit itself. If it's a poor quality CM unit I wouldn't recommend spending the 15-20 bucks it will take to send it to them. It may be better spent just getting a quality PSU. Almost every pre-built PC or cases that come with a PSU installed are cheap units. You don't want to use them with your relatively expensive investment in hardware. You've already experienced how quickly a cheap PSU can fail and you're lucky if it didn't take any other hardware out with it.

If the led's on hardware connected to the motherboard are still lit, there's a good chance the mobo is fine. If you send it in and there's nothing wrong, you're going to be paying out of pocket for shipping both ways.

You want a Tier 3 or higher PSU from here:

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-1804779/power-supply-unit-tier-list.html



If your PSU isn't on that list at the 3rd tier or higher it's probably a poor unit. Here's what happens with cheap PSUs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ezk9OA7aKOE



http://www.theregister.co.uk/2012/11/26/exploding_computer_vs_reg_reader/



http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/low-cost-psu-pc-power-supply,2862.html



I'd say do what you think is best, but if the PSU fails the paper clip test and was done right, then it's a failed unit without doubt. I wouldn't waste my money on shipping it. You will have already paid for half of the unit below and you'll still have a cheap untrustworthy PSU. Cooler master does sell some decent units (They don't make them though) but they don't include them in budget cases.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($32.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $32.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-20 23:15 EDT-0400
 
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Solution
A

Alex Breen

Reputable
Oct 20, 2014
5
0
4,510
Hey everyone! I'm thinking that I'm going to buy a new power supply. And to clear up what I was saying before, the LEDs in the keyboard themselves were lighting up, not the actual motherboard (even though it did flash once or twice when I turned on the power button.)
 
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Darkbreeze

Darkbreeze

Retired Mod
Jun 24, 2014
80,414
7,633
176,790
Your best option would be to borrow a PSU, if possible, and check to see that it POSTs so you can quickly make that determination before your warranty expires. Or, you can initiate an RMA now since it will take a day or two for them to respond and then they usually give you a grace period to get them the unit, during which time you can make that determination.
 
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