Jdubs :
There's something wrong with that setup if you're getting 90+ degrees under a stress test.
I had a H60 and it really wasn't a bad cooler tbh I just wanted more room to OC.
Speaking of, is your chip overclocked? and if so, by how much?
The H100i is widely considered one of the best CPU coolers on the market. There are a few better, but not many. You will gain a very noticeable difference should you go down that route. How much exactly I can't really say, depends on your chip and case cooling etc...
Hey thanks for the reply! Alright I have to agree with you I personally think my temps are way too high. I actually brought it back in to the place where it was built and they said nothing is wrong with it so I figure I need to take matters into my own hands. Any idea what the cause of my temps is? Could it just be a faulty chip? I have excellent airflow to my case (corsair 230T) and I'm in the basement which as I mentioned before is very cool. I'm thinking about making the switch to an H100i because I'm at a loss of what to do!
The H60 uses a standard 3 or 4-pin wire for power (I can't remember which it was, probably 4). This is convenient, but it also means there's room for error.
As you probably know, boards have the ability to change voltages to fans on-the-fly, reducing their RPM when things aren't stressful. With the H60's setup it's likely that the board is turning down the RPM of the pump without realising it's actually a pump. It's considered best to plug that cable into a SYSFAN header, or one that doesn't adjust speeds.
Of course also plug it into a 12v header, but on pretty much every modern board they're all going to be.
So solution then. Fire up... I believe SpeedFan worked. One of the readings will be the pump RPM. It will be fairly obvious since it'll be the only one with stupidly high levels (I seem to recall with the H60 that was in the 4000+ range). How many fans do you know that spin
that fast? If it isn't, then there's an issue.
If it isn't. I would imagine making that particular header run at full speed in the BIOS would be the solution.
If it's not that. Remount the cooler and ensure that you remove any thermal paste before applying new stuff. (There are lots of tutorials for this, what to use etc...).
Fan orientation doesn't really matter with a radiator, but I'd advise that you have it in a pull config, in that it's pulling through the rad and exhausting out the back of the case.
Oh and by the way I'm not overclocking at all.
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