System Panel Header, ASROCK 970 Pro3 R2.0

Uthere

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Apr 26, 2013
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Hello everyone,
I am trying to build a new PC (for the first time) and of course it didn't work, I took it to someone to try and find the problem, he told me that I put the cables wrong in the System Panel Header and now the motherboard is dead.
The question here, putting the cables wrongly into the System Panel Header can kill the motherboard or he is just trying to sell me a new one ?
Here's a picture of the manual, if someone can tell me how to do this correctly, thank you very much for the help.
http://
UkplsS8


PC Specs :
AMD FX 6350
ASROCK 970 Pro3 R2.0
 
Solution
You have a 600w psu that does not have a pci-e 6 pin connector?

Sounds like a very cheap junk psu. There is no certifying body that has a requirement for the psu to output what they company puts on the sticker. Any atx psu that was designed to have that kind of wattage would be made for gaming, so if it did not have a 6pin cable that is a huge red flag.

Without being able to see the rig and how it is connected this is where I would put the point of failure at.

Uthere

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Apr 26, 2013
11
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10,510


Thank you sir for the fast reply, here how I wired the cables (you can follow me on the picture in the Link if it works)

  • I put the colored cable "POWER LED" in PLED+
    the white cable "POWER LED" in PLED-
    the colored cable "POWER SW" in PWRBTN#
    the white cable "POWER SW" in GND
    the colored "HDD LED" in HDLED+
    the white "HDD LED" in HDLED-
    the colored "RESET SW" in GND(2nd row in the picture)
    the white "RESET SW" in RESET#
    DUMMY is empty
 
The manual is pretty straight forward on the system panels, if you call the top row of pins 1-4, and the bottom row pins 5-9:
1 and 2 for the power button light on the case (not all cases have this)
3 and 4 are for the power button, this makes no difference forward or backwards as it is just a momentary switch
5 and 6 are for hard drive led (not all cases have this)
7 and 8 are for the reset switch, same as power button these can be reversed (not all cases have this either).

Did you buy the board from the guy you saw, or did you get it from a different vendor.
Its easily possible something else is hooked up wrong. You can always try returning the board as defective as well.
 
Sounds like you inserted it correctly then.
Did you plug in the 8 pin/4pin cpu harness (board should be 8 pin but your psu could be only a 4 pin).

You said it did not work but gave no further detail on how it did not work, nor did you specify what the rest of our build is.
 

Uthere

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Apr 26, 2013
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Thank you so much, I just have one last question, if I put the reset switch on 8-9 does it break the motherboard ?
Anyways, I will just buy another one cause it's a motherboard that my mother bring it to me from the US and sending it back will cost 2x its price :sarcastic:
The Chassis Speaker does not give me any signal, and I have a black screen of death :D (the fans are working fine) the PSU is ok 600W, maybe the CPU is dead :??: no no no I don't want to imagine this case :no:
Thank you again :bounce:
 

Uthere

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Apr 26, 2013
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Yep as you said, my PSU got a 4pin that I have plugged, I use a 2-Molex/PCI6-pin adapter for my GPU cause I don't have a PSU 6pin :(
Here all the hardware that I bought : http://
Some details : I put the power on, there is no output to the screen (black/no signal) and the Chassis speaker does not give any signal, the CPU/GPU fans are OK. well looks like there is a problem but impossible to detect :D
 
You have a 600w psu that does not have a pci-e 6 pin connector?

Sounds like a very cheap junk psu. There is no certifying body that has a requirement for the psu to output what they company puts on the sticker. Any atx psu that was designed to have that kind of wattage would be made for gaming, so if it did not have a 6pin cable that is a huge red flag.

Without being able to see the rig and how it is connected this is where I would put the point of failure at.
 
Solution

Uthere

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Apr 26, 2013
11
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10,510


Thank you very much, you are right, its a very bad quality PSU (that's all we find here :( ), I suppose the solution for this problem is to find a good PSU.
:bounce: Problem Solved :bounce:
Thank you
 
FYI, you don't have to attach every one of those connections before testing it. I recommend just using the POWER SWITCH at first until you get it working.

Make sure the CMOS jumper isn't jumpered (see motherboard manual).

THIS is a good PSU. You can find slightly cheaper but carefully investigate the quality:
http://pcpartpicker.com/part/antec-power-supply-hcg620m

Other:
Frankly, it's IMPOSSIBLE to determine if you wrecked your motherboard in that fashion. I'm also not even certain its possible. The only thing he could have done is attach a different power supply, CPU etc and actually try to boot up but even then if it was dead that doesn't prove how it died so I call finklesnaps on his diagnosis. Or peatulflips. Take your pick.

other:
a) DDR3 memory only properly supported in specific slots (see motherboard manual for one or two-stick placements)

b) CPU 8-pin power connector on motherboard need to be attached.

c) before installing Windows, run MEMTEST www.memtest.org for a full pass

d) after installing Windows, use drivers from the motherboard support site
 

Uthere

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Apr 26, 2013
11
0
10,510


Thank you very much Sir, I will try as you said to attach a different PSU and graphic card (hard to change the CPU). I don't have a CPU 8-pin power connector on my current PSU but in the manual they said that a 4-pin is OK.
For the CMOS jumper, should I set it in a specific way ?
Thank you for the help. :)