Just built new pc, component in case front i/o panel exploded upon turning it on. Help?

Joloro

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Nov 20, 2014
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Okay, so I am a beginner at pc building, and have just finished installing most of my components in my case for my first build, minus any storage devices and an optical drive, but when I turned the system on for the first time inside the case (feeling confident in its functionality after a successful out-of-the-case build) I immediately heard a somewhat loud pop, but the system continued to run. I turned the system off to inspect it and upon opening the top panel of the case I noticed that what I think is a capacitor? connected to the i/o panel had exploded. This tiny capacitor appears to be connected to buttons that control the case fans. When I turn the pc on again, everything else seems to still work fine, video card and cpu cooler fans still spin, and I can access the BIOS on a monitor connected to the video card. However the case fans lack any functionality, aside from the rear exhaust fan, which works fine, as it connects to the motherboard independently of the others. I'm thinking this explosion may be related to a possible defect I noticed when I first received the case that I initially passed off as not a concern, being too swept up with excitement to believe I had hit a roadblock already, involving some kind of maybe leakage around another nearby component on the i/o panel. But I'm not ruling out the possibility of having plugged the 4-pin fan connector wrong. Then again, I'm new at this so maybe there's something obvious I'm overlooking. Any explanations/suggestions as to why this apparent disaster might have happened and/or how to best deal with it would be greatly appreciated. I will include some photographic evidence if it helps.
Also, my case is a Thermaltake Core v71, my motherboard an ASRock z97 Extreme4, and my psu a Corsair CS650M.

The scene of the crime:
http://i.imgur.com/L57WqE3.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/lLNtIEH.jpg

That defect I mentioned which looks like a tiny cheese volcano:
http://i.imgur.com/rJ45jF1.jpg

The three dead fans (2x200mm front intake and 1x200mm top exhaust) have cords that all connect and end in this connector:
http://i.imgur.com/UnTPqcL.jpg
Which I plugged into the connector on the left of this image below, and then used the connector on the right to plug into the cha_fan1 header on the mobo:
http://i.imgur.com/929Cpui.jpg

Maybe I'm including a bit much information, but this is my first post on a tech forum so I figured I'd play it safe.
 
Solution
Hello,

Double check all connections; an electrolitic capacitor explodes if the voltage on its terminals is way over its rating (highly unlikely, as you could find inside your PC a maximum voltage of 24V DC), if it is inversely connected (possible) or if the working temperatures exceeds the rating (usually 85C/105C/120C, unlikely). Of course, you cannot rule out a bad capacitor (the other one seems fine, and I guess it's identical).

If the manufacturer is not willing to change the case, cut/desolder the damaged capacitor from the board (the best is to replace it).

Xavier Bouttier

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Initial guess would be that that 'goo' caused a short circuit, which resulted in an electrical loop with nowhere for the excess voltage to go, and it just exploded.. If that's the case, be thankful it didnt damage anything else.

For an almost 200$ case, you should definitely return this, with the photographic evidence you showed us, get your money back, or have them send you another case... Unfortunately, although extremely rare, some defects can cause this kind of thing.

EDIT 1: That goop, which i doubt is a bonding solvent, or epoxy, should definitely not be there.

EDIT 2: is it solidified? Or still kinda gooey?

(Maybe the worker assembling the case was enjoying his cheddar burrito too much whilst assembling :p)
 

Cristi72

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Hello,

Double check all connections; an electrolitic capacitor explodes if the voltage on its terminals is way over its rating (highly unlikely, as you could find inside your PC a maximum voltage of 24V DC), if it is inversely connected (possible) or if the working temperatures exceeds the rating (usually 85C/105C/120C, unlikely). Of course, you cannot rule out a bad capacitor (the other one seems fine, and I guess it's identical).

If the manufacturer is not willing to change the case, cut/desolder the damaged capacitor from the board (the best is to replace it).
 
Solution

Joloro

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Nov 20, 2014
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Thanks for the reply, your explanation sounds reasonable enough to me. The goo is solidified, and I definitely regret now not acknowledging it as a serious concern when I first observed it... I guess sometimes you run into a bit of sour luck now and again. Although it may have been karma, like the universe trying to tell me I shouldn't have splurged on such a nice case packing features I really don't need, seeing as how I am not super ambitious about upgrading or overclocking to the point where I'd actually need to take advantage of the core v71's extensive support for big liquid/water cooling systems, I just really liked its aesthetic, although I did manage to nab it for about $100. Still, I will definitely endeavor to have it returned and refunded.
I was really hoping I'd have this bad boy up and running by now, but apparently I'll just have to be patient.
Now I know to be concerned whenever I spot anything that resembles cheese inside a computer case!

 

Joloro

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Nov 20, 2014
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Very helpful. Good to know some DIY might save me in case I cannot return/exchange the case, although the cheesy mess remains a mystery.

 

Joloro

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If anyone is still out there, I did forget to ask something: Is the feathery material that came out of the capacitor something that requires special care in cleaning up or can I just spray it off with some compressed air?
 

Cristi72

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I just saw something: the connector in the right is for use with floppy disk units and some fan controllers; if you inserted it into the cpu_fan1, Disconnect it ASAP! You can definitely damage the motherboard (that header is intended only for the CPU fan). Where did you insert the CPU fan?
 

Joloro

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Well I definitely inserted that 4-pin connector into the cpu_fan1 header. It seemed like the most logical solution at the time, but it was still an assumption as I couldn't find anything in my case manual that specified exactly what to do with the fan cables. If that wasn't the correct way, what do you suppose was?

Edit: Trying to eliminate it as a mistake, was I at least correct in plugging this connector http://i.imgur.com/UnTPqcL.jpg into this one (which was the only cable included with the case that would fit it) http://i.imgur.com/929Cpui.jpg?
 

Cristi72

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Nowadays all CPU box coolers have a PWM fan connector, so a 4-pin one, which must be plugged in the CPU fan header. Are you using an aftermarket CPU cooler with a 3-pin connector, that's why you haven't used the 4-pin CPU fan header?

You correctly use the 4-pin MOLEX for the case fans; being the sole power case connector, I wonder where was the mistake. The fan controllers uses +12V, that's why the fan connector' plug has only 2 pins instead of 4; even if you managed to insert the connector backwards, the fan controller will receive only +5V, so no damage. Have you tried to use an additional non-Thermaltake fan with the controller? It seems that the controller is not working with other fans (source: https://www.overclock.net/t/1488984/thermaltake-core-v71-owners-club).

I tried to find more pictures depicting the fan controller area and it seems the gooey thing is covering an electrical choke (a little ferrite coil, something like this: http://nanfangdianqi.en.made-in-china.com/custom-detail/EnxEJEmDQQbEJQJEnxmyGxLE/Ferrite-Core-Raidal-Type-Inductor.html). If this is the case, that means the fan controler is actually under the board (it should be an SMD chip), and it is possibly damaged.

For checking if all the fans are working, try one at the time with this:
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_1344&products_id=285

The difference between the floppy connector and the 4-pin PWM connector (your confusion is understandable, given the fact you just assembled your first PC):

Floppy: http://i.imgur.com/4ZJJdO8.jpg , red: +12V, 2x black: 0V(GND); yellow: +5V;

4-pin PWM Fan: http://i.imgur.com/QEDDmMd.png, black: 0V (GND); red: +12V; yellow: sensor; blue: PWM signal.
 

Joloro

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Wait, wait, I'm sorry, I wrote incorrectly. I actually inserted that 4-pin connector into the cha_fan1 header. I don't know why I wrote cpu. I totally meant cha. It was late, I was stressed, etc. My bad!
That said, the 4-pin cpu_fan1 header was definitely used for its intended purpose; I plugged a cooler master hyper 212 evo into that.

I have not tried to use non-Thermaltake fans, the ones that came with the case remain exactly as they came.

Okay, so after some poking around I have ascertained that you are indeed correct that the cable I tried putting to use connecting the molex fan controller connector to the cha_fan1 mobo header is rather a floppy connector, and actually came with my psu, not my case, as I for some reason thought because I am apparently insane, so it is most assured I have made an error there. So I know now that the fan controller molex connector is supposed to plug into something else. My questions now are what is that something else the molex connector hooks up to (I can't seem to find the answer after a good deal of googling) and can it be concluded now that it was that error I made that caused the capacitor to explode, or can I still blame the goo? Also, do you think that mistake could have damaged my motherboard or other components and if so, how would I check for that?

Thank you, by the way, for your continued help, and sorry for the excess of questions; I know spelling things out for a confused beginner like myself can be annoying, so I am grateful of your patience in helping me learn. :)


 

Cristi72

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Off topic: it is good you ask questions, that means you are willing to learn (never apologize for that).

Back to business:

First, I made a mistake in the previous post when describing the wires for the floppy connector: the correct voltages are: yellow: +12V; red: +5V (the MOLEX connector has the same wiring). Sorry about that (night shift).

It is indeed possible that you have damaged the cha_fan controller (by using the floppy connector, you have provoked a short-circuit on the +12V rail; the PSU can deliver up to 51 Amps, so the weakest link became the motherboard); the easiest way to test it is to plug a fan in the cha_fan header; on the other hand, it's better to not use it anymore (less worries), so forget about its existence. The problem is that the +12V rail short-circuit shouldn't damage the fan controller, maybe the fan controller was wrongly wired by the manufacturer.

No, the MOLEX connector from the fan controller connects directly to the PSU, not to the motherboard; I guess you have done the connection the right way. Your motherboard has also a MOLEX connector, but its purpose is to augment the current capacity for the PCI-e x16 slots, when using powerful GPUs (overclocked R9-290/290x, 780Ti) or SLI/CF setups (for a single card, you don't need that). Observe that both connectors (from fan controller and from the motherboard) are male connectors, while all PSU connectors are female connectors, so both must receive power. The wiring should be:

PSU --> 4-pin MOLEX --> fan controller (or PCIE-PWR from motherboard, if needed);
PSU --> 4-pin floppy --> floppy drive (in this particular case, it should remain unused).

You said that the system continued to work after the event; if you don't have any system in which to test the individual components, there is no other way but to power on the system. Try first to power on the system without connecting the SATA power to the HDD/SSD/DVD and also disconnect the fan controller, go into BIOS and check the voltages/temperatures, then do a memory burn-in test (if the motherboard have such utility). If all seems OK, connect the HDD/DVD and proceed with the OS installation.
 

Joloro

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Fyi I totally was rewording that post of mine you quoted here while you posted this so it looks a little bit different now than when you read it, but nevertheless I believe you have answered all my questions, so thanks!

I am relieved to hear what I did probably isn't was caused the capacitor to burst, makes me feel a little bit better. As for the cha_fan1 header, I think I can live without it if I can rely on plugging a MOLEX into the psu for providing power for case fans, as you say. I have found a cable that appears like it could work for this, although rather than just having one female MOLEX connecter it has four of them connected in a series, but I'm assuming that's fine.

So would it be safe to, after I get some sleep, seeing as how it is currently 5 am in my region, try connecting the fan controller correctly with that cable, even with that blown capacitor still chilling there? My goal would be to see if the fan controller has been truly ruined by its exploding and/or the mystery goo on the electrical choke. Even if it has, and the individual fans are still alright, I'm assuming I can buy one of those fan controllers that fits in an optical drive bay and be able to power my fans that way, although I think I'd rather just exchange this case for a new, hopefully defect-free one if that is a possibility.
 

Joloro

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Okay here's an update on the situation:
I went ahead and connected the fan controller to the psu with a molex cable and turned the system on, and, what do you know, the fans lit up and started spinning away. However, they stopped after about 30 seconds, and I noticed a burning smell as well. I immediately powered off the system and removed the top panel of the case and it was clear the smell was coming from that blown capacitor.

So needless to say, I am entirely too frightened to ever use this case again, with images of the whole computer exploding in a fireball flashing through my mind, and will indeed attempt to return it and order a different one, which when I receive it better not have any defects in it either or else clearly the universe is trying to tell me something.

Anyway, thank you SO much for all your help, Cristi72! I now know some important things I didn't before, and I am the better (as well as the more paranoid, which is probably a good thing too) for it! Hopefully I won't run into any more problems like this in my second attempt at assembling a pc, but if I do, I most definitely will come back here for advice. :)
 

Cristi72

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I wouldn't use the original fan controller anymore, to rule out any further damages (you said the case fans are not working anymore, so the fan controler is done). If still want to test the original fan controller, you must detach the broken capacitor (either desolder it or cut short the terminals with a cutting plier or an old nail clipper).
.
Until you will receive the response from manufacturer, you could use a simple MOLEX-to-fan adapter (it is also the easiest way to test the fans, just test the fans one at the time):
http://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Molex-headers-CONNECT-MULTIPLE/dp/B009D3HV1Q/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1416607204&sr=1-5&keywords=molex+adapter

If the response is negative, go for this:
http://www.amazon.com/NZXT-Technologies-5-4-Inch-Controller-AC-SEN-3-B1/dp/B00KJGYLNM/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1416607738&sr=1-2&keywords=fan+controller (up to 5 powerful fans, 1,2 Amps/15W each).
 

OreoDiiorio

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I just had the EXACT same problem. Issue was I plugged the controller into the peripheral output on my power supply and the LEDs worked but the fans did not spin. In an attempt to solve to issue I plugged the fan/led controller into the same adapter as our friend here and then connected the adapter to the CHA1 fan header on the mobo and sure enough when I powered on the system the same and only the same capacitor blew. I don't think the panel is meant to be connected in this way, though the lack of direction is very frustrating. If anyone manages to successfully get this item replaced because of this issue I would very much like to hear it
 

OreoDiiorio

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Nov 23, 2014
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So Cristi72, you said:
It is indeed possible that you have damaged the cha_fan controller (by using the floppy connector, you have provoked a short-circuit on the +12V rail; the PSU can deliver up to 51 Amps, so the weakest link became the motherboard)

First off, I believe the use of this adapter was LIKELY the problem for both myself and the author of this post (please let me know author if you manage to return the case).

But, and pardon me please as I am somewhat new to this as well, I'm not sure I really understand why using this adapter would cause a short-circut to occur. More specifically, I do not understand what about the connection is incorrect. I get that the wiring on the adapter is not intended to be used in this way (I saw your pictures Cristi) but what about it would/could cause a short-circuit?
Much appreciation if you can help!!
 

Joloro

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Nov 20, 2014
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You know what I just read a review on Amazon for this case where another person had the exact same problem: lack of clear directions in the manual led to plugging the fan controller in apparently incorrectly which apparently led to that capacitor exploding! Super annoying!

It is unfortunate that Thermaltake's included manual for the core v71 is so atrociously skimpy, and I've just been over to their page on their website for customer support and it is also kind of a nightmare to use. However I did buy this from Amazon so I'm returning it through them, so I will definitely post again here with an update on whether that process is successful, which I am hopeful it will be, seeing as how I've never had a problem with an Amazon return in the past, and also because I've already went ahead and ordered a new case (not from Thermaltake, as my opinion of them has been unfortunately soured due to my experiences thus far, even though I'm sure they do have many satisfied customers) because I am just not a patient person. If they do end up sending it back to me, I suppose I can keep it as a back-up case or something, because honestly it is a nice case, and there are ways of dealing with its problem, but I would rather get that money back. I will let you know how it goes, although coming up here on black Friday both UPS and Amazon will be frightfully busy I'm sure, so it might take a while (another reason why I decided to order a new case now rather than wait for a possible replacement).
 

Cristi72

Admirable


The explanation is simple and derives from the plugs wiring; starting with pin1 for both plugs, we have:

- 4-pin floppy: +12V/ 0V/ 0V/ +5V;
- 4-pin fan: 0V/ +12V/ sensor/ PWM.

So, inserting a 4-pin floppy plug into a 4-pin PWM fan controller (cha_fan from your motherboard), your +12V from PSU meets 0V (ground) from the motherboard; given the fact that 0V from motherboard is connected to 0V from the PSU through both the 20/24-pin and 4/8 pin CPU connectors, that means the +12V rail was briefly shorted (I said briefly because the PSU's current capability, 50 Amps, very likely caused the 0V circuit of the cha_fan to vaporize and eliminate the short-circuit).
 

DerekB

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I did the exact same thing as well trying to help my son build his first computer. The Thermaltake case manual made no mention of this connector and where it should go. The other ones were clearly marked and went smoothly into the appropriate destination on the motherboard.

I found the MOLEX to FAN adaptor and plugged it into the Chassis Fan Header and POW - the capacitor blew apart.

I believe the correct approach would have been to connect it to the PSU, not the Mobo.

I got the fans working by disconnecting them from the controller and connecting them to the various Chassis Fan headers on the motherboard. The software utility to control fan speed works well, so things are functional now. I did send an email to Thermaltake to see if it's possible to get a replacement control board but there is plenty of soldering to be done for that since many of the wires for the HDD light and other things are soldered directly to it.
 

gened216

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I had the exact same thing happen to me with the same case model. Plugged the fan control panel on the case into cha_fan 2 with the floppy drive connector on my Asus ROG MAXIMUS VIII Hero MOBO, and the same capacitor blew on the case's fan control panel. I ended up bypassing that control panel and connecting the 2 fans that were off of it directly to the MOBO and am currently using the cha_fan 2 connector on the MOBO and that fan works.

I really don't know much about electricity in general and this thread was a little hard to follow in that respect, but I am still wondering if I damaged my MOBO. would you have any idea on that?

I have all fans connectors on the MOBO used and working, and the only issue i ever run into is when I completely cold start, my MOBO cuts on then off, then cuts on and hangs with a q code of 00, I manually shut it off with the power button, turn it on, and my UEFI displays a message saying it detected power surges from an unstable PSU, I enter then exit the UEFI, and start the PC normally and everything works fine, until I have to cold start again. I have read that the MOBO I have has that issue often due to the anti-surge protection being too sensitive, but due to what happened I am afraid to turn it off. I can also restart and shut down and restart, but if I cut the power off on and to the PSU then cold start after, that is when it goes through that process then ends up displaying the message about power surges.

Would you be kind enough to share insight into this issue please?