OC ASRock Z97 Extreme6 - Question

PSU voltages look ok, very good in fact. I am somewhat concerned though that it shows only .952v on the CPU core voltage. This is very likely to cause instability at that OC. In your OP you said it was at 1.234v. Did you change it to drop it down or is it possible that some further BIOS settings are needing to be changed, like disabling speed step or C states, as the system may be dropping the voltage down. Weird though that it's showing that voltage even at load though. You may need to address this if it's not something you did intentionally.

Also, your temps seem pretty high at load and perhaps the system is throttling due to exceeding the thermal limits. You don't have to get to shut down temps in order for there to be an adverse affect as the cpu will throttle to stop itself from getting to that point. Perhaps you can post screenshots of the BIOS window to show all settings. Flash drive in usb port and hit F12 will generally take a screenshot of the current BIOS window on most UEFI motherboards.

Ok, I typed this whole fracking thing once already, and then got the inevitable Tom's hardware fracking error page, so, here we go again.

Couple of things. Your CPU temps seem way high, high enough to cause throttling or worker errors.

The first place I'd look is the center pressure screw on your EVO cooler. In case you're not aware, which most people who use this cooler are not, the center screw applies all the pressure to firmly seat the heatsink base against the CPU lid. The four outer screws do not, they are mainly just there to leverage the center screw fulcrum point. There is a loose and a tight position. The bottom half of the center screw has a slot in it which is supposed to catch on a matching raised slot in the center hole of the heatsink base so you can finger tighten the center screw.

The tab in the hole sometimes is not there or breaks off. It's only aluminum after all and not that sturdy. My recommendation is, if you are not 110% certain that you were previously aware of the center screw being adjustable, and did so, correctly, you remove the entire heatsink, clean the cpu lid and heatsink base, familiarize yourself with how the center screw works, repaste and reinstall the heatsink.

You can hold the bottom half of the screw in place to tighten the upper half into it, effectively getting it fully tight prior to installing the hold down bracket, but it makes it much harder to get the four outer screws in place and started.

Alternatively, if you can just loosen the four outer screws about halfway, press down on the center screw to hold the bottom half in place against the bottom of the bore in the center of the heatsink and tighten the upper half of the center screw fully in, then re-tighten the four outer screws to spec, it would make it much faster. The center screw not being adjusted correctly can account for as much as a 10-20°C difference in temps.

The next thought is perhaps too much TIM was applied to the bottom of the heatsink, or not enough. A rice grain sized amount is about perfect in most cases, applied directly to the center of the cpu lid prior to mounting the cooler.

Lastly, case cooling. Good case cooling requires a significant volume of cool air be replenished every second in order to allow the CPU and GPU fans to do their jobs. Otherwise, you're just trying to cool the CPU, or GPU, with warm air, which doesn't work well. If you don't have good internal case cooling then the CPU heatsink cannot exchange heat well which leads, once again, to high temps. All case fan locations should be populated on any overclocked rig. Both intake and exhaust fans, preferably multiple of each, are necessary to accomplish this. If you have good case cooling then one of the first two items is likely the problem.

I think your voltages are all fine just going by the sensor values which isn't as accurate as using a meter but is accurate enough to not indicate any glaring issues.