FX 8350 and Mobo Heat Issues

Mastergrief NPR · Jan 8, 2015

Hello, I have been having some problems with cooling my CPU and Mother board.

My specs are:
Case: Rosewill Thor V2
Mobo: Asus M5A97 LE R2.0
CPU: AMD FX 8350 ( at stock speed)
CPU Cooler: Swiftech H240-X
TIM: Arctic Silver MX-4
GPU: XFX r9 280x Black Edition
RAM: 2 x Patriot Viper Extreme 4GB DDR3 1600Mhz
PSU: Hentek 1075W
HDD: Western Digital 1TB
Software to perform thermal tests: Prime95

Over the Christmas season I have upgraded my CPU from a fx 4150 to a fx 8350. When I had first switched I was still using my old air cooler, a thermaltake F4. My new processor at idle was about 29C and at full load would approach 65C at which point I would stop it because I was uncomfortable with it being that hot. While it never approached 65C while gaming I was hoping to overclock so I investigated more advanced cooling options. I finally settled on a Swiftech H240-X. I installed it in my case with its default fan configuration (the fans are pre-installed and force air into the case when mounted on top as I had it). When I tested my CPU the temps were 30-31C idle and at full load 50C with motherboard at 32C. However, the CPU is being throttled when it reaches 50C. I noted that the vcore dropped from 1.36 to .888 and the core multiplier from 20,0 to 7.0. My PC had never done that before I installed my water cooler. I reinstalled the H240-X with the fans in a configuration pulling air out the top. The temps were the same afterwords. Seeing that the vcore was dropping occasionally I thought that the VRMs might be overheating so I removed the side of the case and used a blow dryer to cool the VRMs. The CPU did stop throttling but the temp continued to rise slowly during testing until about 58C at which point i turned off the blow dryer to see it the CPU would throttle. My CPU throttled almost instantly.

My question is firstly how to keep my CPU from throttling without using a blow dryer. Secondly, how can I keep my CPU temps down. From my research on forums an AIO water cooler should keep my temps much lower. I need answer soon as I plan to return my H240-X and buy a better air cooler in an attempt to cool the VRMs and drop CPU temps. Thank you for your support.

t3naci0ust · Jan 8, 2015

Ok, which way do you you have your CPU block installed, and is it hitting any of the VRM on the motherboard? BTW talk to Bryan from swiftech and tell him you are having and issue and he will sort you out if i can not.

Mastergrief NPR · Jan 8, 2015

t3naci0ust :

I do not understand what you mean by which way my CPU block is installed. Is there a correct way? If so then I am unaware. I followed the instructions that came with the cooler. Also it isn't hitting anything. Here are some pictures so that you may see (I am fairly inexperienced and might not see something).

This is the top of my PC with the fins removed. I have LEDs on top for looks and tape to force air into the radiator.

Also how can I find Byran. I am new to this site.

t3naci0ust · Jan 8, 2015

Try mounting the block there the logo goes vertical instead of horizontal. and where the power plug for the led is on the side instead of the top or bottom

t3naci0ust · Jan 8, 2015

Because it sounds like the exact same issue i was having. and if that doesn't work email them at help@swiftech.com

Mastergrief NPR · Jan 9, 2015

t3naci0ust :

I just tried your solution and it did not work. I sent and email to swiftech's support and hopefully they can help me resolve the problem. Thank you for your help and advice.

t3naci0ust · Jan 9, 2015

Np. Bryan will get you sorted out.

slyu9213 · Jan 9, 2015

First of all I think you have the Asus M5A97 LE R2.0 instead of the Asus M5A97 R2.0. My reasoning is that the Asus M5A97 R2.0 comes with a blue heatsink on the VRM but yours doesn't have any like the Asus M5A97 LE R2.0. Unless you bought the motherboard second-hand or you took off the heatsink that is.

The VRM's will need additional cooling. You should at least get a fan blowing air at the VRM but installing your own heatsinks on them will help also. Although your motherboard supports up to 140W TDP processors I don't think it will be as efficient as an 6+2 or 8+2 as the power phase design of your particular motherboard is only 4+2. While it was enough for the 95W TDP Quad-Core it's not as efficient and strong for a 125W TDP Octo-Core.

That being said install some sort of heatsink to the VRM on the motherboard and get active cooling for the VRM. You can also install a small fan at the back of the motherboard behind where the CPU would be (CPU backplate). As for the CPU the idle temps should be lower than the air cooler you had. This could mean bad contact between the CPU and the waterblock in most cases, excessive thermal compound used but it can also be a defect. I would contact whoever t3naci0ust mentioned for that.

Mastergrief NPR · Jan 10, 2015

slyu9213 :

First of all I think you have the Asus M5A97 LE R2.0 instead of the Asus M5A97 R2.0. My reasoning is that the Asus M5A97 R2.0 comes with a blue heatsink on the VRM but yours doesn't have any like the Asus M5A97 LE R2.0. Unless you bought the motherboard second-hand or you took off the heatsink that is.

The VRM's will need additional cooling. You should at least get a fan blowing air at the VRM but installing your own heatsinks on them will help also. Although your motherboard supports up to 140W TDP processors I don't think it will be as efficient as an 6+2 or 8+2 as the power phase design of your particular motherboard is only 4+2. While it was enough for the 95W TDP Quad-Core it's not as efficient and strong for a 125W TDP Octo-Core.

That being said install some sort of heatsink to the VRM on the motherboard and get active cooling for the VRM. You can also install a small fan at the back of the motherboard behind where the CPU would be (CPU backplate). As for the CPU the idle temps should be lower than the air cooler you had. This could mean bad contact between the CPU and the waterblock in most cases, excessive thermal compound used but it can also be a defect. I would contact whoever t3naci0ust mentioned for that.

You were correct in that I have the LE version of the mother board. I apologize about the confusion. Also, could over-tightening of the water block be the problem? I have been tightening it with a screwdriver until I could not anymore.

slyu9213 · Jan 10, 2015

Overtightening may not be a problem with heat (not sure) but ypu would be putting unnecessary amount of preesure and force on the CPU.

Mastergrief NPR · Jan 13, 2015

I am in the process of working with Bryan from swiftech. If we cannot determine anything wrong with it than I intend to return it and purchase either a NH-D15 or a Cryorig R1 Ultimate.

t3naci0ust · Jan 13, 2015

Or you can buy a different AIO? there are a bunch of really good ones. Like the X61 and the Enermax Liqtech 240

mdocod · Jan 13, 2015

However, the CPU is being throttled when it reaches 50C. I noted that the vcore dropped from 1.36 to .888 and the core multiplier from 20,0 to 7.0.

This is standard AM3+ motherboard self-preservation protocol.

Your motherboard is overheating, the CPU is not.

The M5A97 LE ONLY supports 140W CPUs when the AMD 140W 5000+RPM boxed cooler or something similar is used, as that cooler replicates the function that you were performing with the blow drier. If you use software that can show you the motherboard socket temps, you'll probably see the CPU kick down to 7X @0.9V when the temp goes over a threshold like 70C or 80C.

Swapping to a D15 or Cryorig R1 won't help, as you'll still have very limited air-flow over the VRM mosfets.

-------------

If your goal is just to get the system to work, use the stock cooler, it's the best cooler for use on your motherboard.

It wouldn't hurt to turn off turbo, turn off APM, and do some fine tuning of the CPU voltage to find a stable under-volted configuration for good measure.

-----------

On a final note, you really can't trust any 3rd party software with AMD core temps. Use AMD overdrive to check thermal margin. Use HWiNFO or HWMonitor to check socket temps (this is a temp reading read from your it87 type SuperIO chip, not directly from the CPU).

AMD core temp is not "measured" as a real temperature by a traditional temp probe or diode, it is calculated and reported as a thermal margin, which can then be inverted and calibrated to a more "human readable" scale. The correctly calibrated scale inverts the output such that 70C correlates to 0 thermal margin remaining, and 0C correlates to the highest thermal margin that the scale allows. When calibrated correctly, temperature monitoring software should show a properly idling Vishera in the 0-10C range.

Mastergrief NPR · Jan 13, 2015

mdocod :

However, the CPU is being throttled when it reaches 50C. I noted that the vcore dropped from 1.36 to .888 and the core multiplier from 20,0 to 7.0.

This is standard AM3+ motherboard self-preservation protocol.

Your motherboard is overheating, the CPU is not.

The M5A97 LE ONLY supports 140W CPUs when the AMD 140W 5000+RPM boxed cooler or something similar is used, as that cooler replicates the function that you were performing with the blow drier. If you use software that can show you the motherboard socket temps, you'll probably see the CPU kick down to 7X @0.9V when the temp goes over a threshold like 70C or 80C.

Swapping to a D15 or Cryorig R1 won't help, as you'll still have very limited air-flow over the VRM mosfets.

-------------

If your goal is just to get the system to work, use the stock cooler, it's the best cooler for use on your motherboard.

It wouldn't hurt to turn off turbo, turn off APM, and do some fine tuning of the CPU voltage to find a stable under-volted configuration for good measure.

-----------

On a final note, you really can't trust any 3rd party software with AMD core temps. Use AMD overdrive to check thermal margin. Use HWiNFO or HWMonitor to check socket temps (this is a temp reading read from your it87 type SuperIO chip, not directly from the CPU).

AMD core temp is not "measured" as a real temperature by a traditional temp probe or diode, it is calculated and reported as a thermal margin, which can then be inverted and calibrated to a more "human readable" scale. The correctly calibrated scale inverts the output such that 70C correlates to 0 thermal margin remaining, and 0C correlates to the highest thermal margin that the scale allows. When calibrated correctly, temperature monitoring software should show a properly idling Vishera in the 0-10C range.

I was hoping that by swapping an air cooler that it would "accidentally" cool my VRMs. This very thing happened with my old air cooler, a NiC F4, before swapping over to the H240-X. This would seem to work well with the NH-D15 as it is advertised to cool motherboard components. I am also considering going with a less expensive air cooler, compared to a AIO, and buying a better motherboard with heat sinks on it.

t3naci0ust · Jan 13, 2015

Why not just upgrade your mobo to one that actually has a heatsink on your VRM? That mobo is kinda crappy.

slyu9213 · Jan 13, 2015

Not sure what I suggested previously but look into getting small heatsinks for the VRMs. Here is a link to what I am kind of talking about.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708011
http://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Aluminum-Cooling-Heatsinks-cooler/dp/B007XACV8O/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1421183411&sr=1-2&keywords=vrm+heatsink&pebp=1421183413865&peasin=B007XACV8O

Also get a fan pointed at the VRM area and behind the socket on the backside of the motherboard if you have an opening on the back. If you don't want to buy anything extra then try rearranging your airflow and fans. I see that you have a mesh side panel. Maybe adding fans to the side as intake will bring cooler air to the motherboard/vrm area. Additionallu you can make the rear exhaust into an intake too. Then the top(AIO) and front could be exhausts.

A FX 8350 can run it's stock clock 4GHz plus another ~500MHz at the stock voltages of the CPU. I would honestly turn Turbo-Boost off because it tends to set voltages over the stock voltages when the CPU boosts to 4.1/4.2Ghz when the CPU doesn't even need those voltage boosts. You're better off OCing the CPU to 4.3-4.5GHz and then leaving all power saving options on. That way you can keep the CPU at it's stock voltage and not let it raise any higher. You can additionally decide to stay with the 4GHz stock and then try to undervolt the VCore to lower temps too.

mdocod · Jan 13, 2015

]A FX 8350 can run it's stock clock 4GHz plus another ~500MHz at the stock voltages

I guess my FX-8350 missed the memo...

slyu9213 · Jan 13, 2015

mdocod :

Yes I failed to use the word approximate, though that's what I use '~' for. It's just that in guides I have read that Vishera CPUs get around 400-500MHz OC at stock voltages give or take. Some can't get over 4.4GHz while some can get to 4.6GHz. My 8350 can do 4.4GHz stable through Prime95, IBT, AIDA64, OCCT but 4.5GHz isn't as stable. I only tested it roughly 2 hours on Prime95 and none of the scores crashed. It's just that one of the cores dropped to like double digit speeds occasionally for a fraction of a second. Stable for playing games I so I keep it on 4.5GHz. It's not a sure fact just what I've seen a lot from people's experiences around the web.

mdocod · Jan 13, 2015

I didn't mean it to be like that

I know most of them do have that sort of headroom in em, I'm just bitter about having a sub-mediocre 8350. Both of the 6300's I've overclocked on could do 4ghz on their VERY low VID of 1.21V. My 8350 needs almost every drop of it's 1.35V VID to do stock 4ghz speeds!

slyu9213 · Jan 14, 2015

mdocod :

Had a feeling you didn't mean anything serious. Almost every single CPU I have had was so bad with OCing, this 8350 is the only thing that is relatively okay.

FX 8350 and Mobo Heat Issues

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