Intel Atom Cooling

Afterdark3 · Jan 10, 2015

Alright this question seems a little stupid to some of you, but I need to figure out a way to cool an Intel Atom processor better. (N570 model) and the incredibly bad "heatsink" is basically a copper heat spreader with a fan attached, no fins or anything, now mind you, this just hosts a basic file server so its pretty much a stationary laptop so portability isn't a problem at all. But the thing gets pretty hot, and I want to make sure it lasts as long as possible.

CompuTronix · Jan 10, 2015

Afterdark3,

The information you've provided suggests that you've had the unit open, so you've probably inspected it for dust and cleaned it. It's possible that the fan is wearing out due to excessive hours on the fan bearings. You may be able to source a more powerful fan with a higher CFM specification to replace the original.

Otherwise, you can purchase a set of generic adhesive feet which are thicker, and will increase the clearance between the bottom intake grill and your desk, which will in turn increase airflow and reduce temperatures a few degrees. Also, a laptop cooling pad may help to further improve temperatures.

CT :sol:

LoneSombrero · Jan 10, 2015

You could buy a USB laptop cooler, they plug into the usb and provide extra fans to ease heat off the laptop. They're sold where ever laptop accessories are sold so like target or walmart but if you want higher performing laptop coolers you can also buy some from corsair. Hope that might help.

digitaldoc · Jan 10, 2015

The Atom processors use low wattage and should not generate much heat at all. The latest ones are suitable for use in fanless situations, such as a tablet.

Your Atom is Socket BGA559. These were generally sold as the processor already installed in the motherboard with the heatsink in place. I do not find any coolers that can be separately purchased for BGA559.

Even the new ones are sold fanless.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813182914&cm_re=atom-_-13-182-914-_-Product

At best, I think you can add a fan to the case of your system if it is getting too hot in there.

Afterdark3 · Jan 11, 2015

digitaldoc :

Sorry to dump your idea, but like these guys said, its a laptop and not a server

Afterdark3 · Jan 11, 2015

CompuTronix :

I understand that this is completely not manufacture reccomended, but would there be any terrible horrible detrimental effects if i used an old GPU heatsink (Passive) and stuck it to the bottom of the cooler with some "thermal adhesive" (a little JB weld and cheap-o ceramic thermal paste) I have the old thing propped up on a 2x4 so there won't be any clearance issues to start. I know it isn't the greatest theory when it comes to computers, but this thing is practically disposable, and I have a tendency to jury rig my own things, but never others (fortunately for them)

CompuTronix · Jan 11, 2015

Please describe where this laptop sits. How much vertical clearance is there with screen open?

Afterdark3 · Jan 11, 2015

CompuTronix :

With 2x4 it has a good 3-4 inches above the computer, and 2 inches (obviously) below it. and i also usually have a fan hooked up via usb (also jury rigged) running so it blows underneath it (its on a shelf out of sight)

CompuTronix · Jan 11, 2015

I've got the picture. You read my mind. That's exactly what I was going to suggest.

The only other idea that I can offer to increase airflow, is to use perhaps a Dremel tool to very carefully cut away the plastic grill from the intake port on the bottom of the laptop, so as to decrease resistance to airflow.

Afterdark3 · Jan 11, 2015

CompuTronix :

Yes, fortunately I own a Dremel, but to be completely honest, i have know idea what acer was thinking when they designed this thing, like i said the heatsink isn't at all a heatsink its a heat spreader with a fan and i have never seen a computer more stupidly designed than this (thermally anyway). I shake my head in discust

CompuTronix · Jan 11, 2015

Have Dremel, will cut!

Well in the same manner, you can also cut away the plastic grill from the exhaust port on the side or rear of the laptop, so as to further decrease resistance to airflow.

With both grills removed, you would think it's got to make a noticeable difference.

Afterdark3 · Jan 11, 2015

CompuTronix :

Thank you for your assistance

CompuTronix · Jan 11, 2015

Another thought ... perhaps a "plenum" would help. You could fabricate a plenum from a plastic page sleeve and tape to form a short cylinder, which could provide a relatively air tight seal between the external intake fan and the bottom of the laptop.

I am ye ole plenum maker from way back.

Afterdark3 · Jan 11, 2015

CompuTronix :

That is actually not a bad plan, it might be cheap-o cardboard because I'm cheaper than dirt but it will work the same

CompuTronix · Jan 11, 2015

I've made plenums to duct air inside poorly designed cases to improve flow where it was most needed. It was always well worth the effort.

You might try a plenum first before resorting to the Dremel tool :sol:

Afterdark3 · Jan 11, 2015

CompuTronix :

Eh, ill do both, nothing could possible go wrong

like i said, its practically disposable, i run it with the bottom plate off half the time (its an acer aspire d257)

CompuTronix · Jan 11, 2015

Any time I get the chance to cut a hole in my boat for a new gismo ... and it doesn't sink ... is a good day!

I'm interested to know how much improvement you get in your temperatures. :sol:

Afterdark3 · Jan 11, 2015

CompuTronix :

Well, without modifications, i was pulling up to the thermal limiter (upper 140s F) without bottom plate/modded bottom plate it was about the lower 140s, with the tin can heatsink I made, hot glued (no thermal paste at all) it was upper 130s and with a fan and the tin can heatsink it was all the way down in the upper 120s and real low 130s. Tested with Prime 95, in place large FFT's

CompuTronix · Jan 11, 2015

Which version of Prime95 did you run?

Afterdark3 · Jan 11, 2015

CompuTronix :

Most recent? I don't really know, Its may be an older version, it states its 32 bit

CompuTronix · Jan 11, 2015

Please download Prime95 version 26.6 - http://windows-downloads-center.blogspot.com/2011/04/prime95-266.htm

Run only Small FFT’s for 10 minutes.

Use Real Temp to measure your Core temperatures: Real Temp - http://www.techpowerup.com/downloads/2089/real-temp-3-70/

Let's see what you get.

Note: Prime 95's statement about Large FFT's is somewhat misleading where it says "maximum heat, power consumption". This is not meant to refer to the processor only. It actually refers to overall heat and power consumption dissipated among motherboard, voltage regulators, memory and processor.

Also, Blend and Large FFT's are both fluctuating workloads which yield fluctuating temperatures. Only Small FFT's is a stead-state 100% workload, which makes it ideal for thermal testing, as shown in this 13 minute SpeedFan Chart:

Shown above from left to right: Small FFT's, Blend, Linpack and Intel Burn Test.

Note the steady-state thermal signatures of Small FFT's, which allows accurate measurements of Core temperatures.

Afterdark3 · Jan 11, 2015

CompuTronix :

Please download Prime95 version 26.6 - http://windows-downloads-center.blogspot.com/2011/04/prime95-266.htm

Run only Small FFT’s for 10 minutes.

Use Real Temp to measure your Core temperatures: Real Temp - http://www.techpowerup.com/downloads/2089/real-temp-3-70/

Let's see what you get.

Note: Prime 95's statement about Large FFT's is somewhat misleading where it says "maximum heat, power consumption". This is not meant to refer to the processor only. It actually refers to overall heat and power consumption dissipated among motherboard, voltage regulators, memory and processor.

Also, Blend and Large FFT's are both fluctuating workloads which yield fluctuating temperatures. Only Small FFT's is a stead-state 100% workload, which makes it ideal for thermal testing, as shown in this 13 minute SpeedFan Chart:

Shown above from left to right: Small FFT's, Blend, Linpack and Intel Burn Test.

Note the steady-state thermal signatures of Small FFT's, which allows accurate measurements of Core temperatures.

Quick question, why does it display SpeedFan (thats what i was using) when you say to use realtemp?

Afterdark3 · Jan 11, 2015

CompuTronix :

Please download Prime95 version 26.6 - http://windows-downloads-center.blogspot.com/2011/04/prime95-266.htm

Run only Small FFT’s for 10 minutes.

Use Real Temp to measure your Core temperatures: Real Temp - http://www.techpowerup.com/downloads/2089/real-temp-3-70/

Let's see what you get.

Note: Prime 95's statement about Large FFT's is somewhat misleading where it says "maximum heat, power consumption". This is not meant to refer to the processor only. It actually refers to overall heat and power consumption dissipated among motherboard, voltage regulators, memory and processor.

Also, Blend and Large FFT's are both fluctuating workloads which yield fluctuating temperatures. Only Small FFT's is a stead-state 100% workload, which makes it ideal for thermal testing, as shown in this 13 minute SpeedFan Chart:

Shown above from left to right: Small FFT's, Blend, Linpack and Intel Burn Test.

Note the steady-state thermal signatures of Small FFT's, which allows accurate measurements of Core temperatures.

Quick question, why does it display SpeedFan (thats what i was using) when you say to use realtemp?

CompuTronix · Jan 11, 2015

Because I use SpeedFan "Charts" in my Intel Temperature Guide so that I can illustrate the differences in processor thermal signatures between different stress test software.

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