PC shuts off (power cuts) when playing video games

Hamster1010

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Jan 19, 2015
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My PC shuts off abruptly when I play video games. I just got a new graphics card and when I play graphically intensive games, yet games well within the cards specs (Mass Effect 1 and 3, Watch Dogs, Lords of the Fallen) it cuts the power after a while of playing. I will attach a link to an OpenHardwareMonitor Report of when I was playing Mass Effect 3 on max settings.

http://justpaste.it/OpenHardwareTXT

Specs left out of report

PSU: ATX 700W power supply
Memory: 2x2GB Corsair Memory Cards
OS: Windows 8.1

What is causing this? What can I do to fix it? Thank you for any responses.
 
Solution
To clarify the confused information on this thread, the B2 series PSUs are NOT the only good models made by EVGA. All of the B2, G2, P2 and V1 series PSUs offered by EVGA are exceptional units.

You can get a good general idea, perhaps even more exacting than general, by checking any PSU model in question against it's listing on the Dottorent PSU Tier list. Models listed at Tier 3 are "ok" but are not recommended by the majority of experienced builders as a good choice for systems with gaming cards or overclocking. Tier 2B or higher units are recommended. If your model isn't listed and you can't find a reliable review of it, it's probably junk.

Tier list: http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-1804779/power-supply-unit-tier-list.html...

Hamster1010

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Jan 19, 2015
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My OpenHardwareMonitor info suggests that it isn't a heat issue, and while at first I thought it was, I was playing Mass Effect 1, a relatively old game, which shouldn't make my CPU or GPU even bat an eye, and it still shut off, I kept jumping back and forth between thinking it was the power supply or heat but at this point, from the other responses I have been getting, I am thinking power supply
 

Hamster1010

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Alright, let me try to list everything out.

Motherboard: ASUS M4A77TD PRO
CPU: AMD Phenom II X4 945 Processor
Memory: 2x2GB Corsair Memory Cards (yes I plan to get more)
GPU: Nvidia GeForce GTX 660 (brand new)
Hard Drive: 1TB SATA Drive
PSU: Kingwin 700W ATX Power Supply Model CP-700

2 case fans, 1 CPU fan, 1 GPU fan, and 1 power supply fan

1 DVD-ROM and 1 DVD Burner
 

ager

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Jan 18, 2015
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yeah man...i think it's time for you to get a new psu..you dont have to take 700 again...a 500-550 will do..just get a nice one..dont cheap on psu..its kinda important
 

Confused Idiot

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Jan 9, 2015
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EVGA makes top of the line PSU's, but the only good ones are B2 series which are above 750 watt (I use on FYI)

Go with seasonic or corsair (Seasonic I prefer)
Keep in mind it's good to get more than you need for upgrades!

If you will never upgrade ever http://pcpartpicker.com/part/seasonic-power-supply-m12ii520bronze

If you want breathing room for upgrades http://pcpartpicker.com/part/seasonic-power-supply-m12ii620bronze

Keep in mind that you ALWAYS get at least 20 watts more (even if you dont want to upgrade)

If you ever want a new Video card (higher end) or a higher end CPU you will need to make sure the PSU can support it. Plan ahead!
 
To clarify the confused information on this thread, the B2 series PSUs are NOT the only good models made by EVGA. All of the B2, G2, P2 and V1 series PSUs offered by EVGA are exceptional units.

You can get a good general idea, perhaps even more exacting than general, by checking any PSU model in question against it's listing on the Dottorent PSU Tier list. Models listed at Tier 3 are "ok" but are not recommended by the majority of experienced builders as a good choice for systems with gaming cards or overclocking. Tier 2B or higher units are recommended. If your model isn't listed and you can't find a reliable review of it, it's probably junk.

Tier list: http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-1804779/power-supply-unit-tier-list.html

Since I can't find a reliable review of that particular Kingwin model, it's probably not very good, or it may just be extremely old and any reviews that may have been done are long gone.

I suggest, as a starting point, that you download HWinfo, install it and run "sensors only", take screenshots of the sensors data (This will likely take three or more screenshots to gather all the sensors listed) and post the resulting images here.

http://www.hwinfo.com/download.php

The following link will explain how to post your screenshots here:

http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2173703/post-images-tomshardware-guide.html
 
Solution

Hamster1010

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Jan 19, 2015
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LARJhEa.jpg


c9U78iR.jpg


I hope that is visible
 
Perfect. Everything looks "ok" here except I think you missed one additional screen of sensors. No big. The important sensors were there. Now, do the same thing again with the GPU under full load this time. Use Heaven or Furmark or another utility, or load up one of the games that causes it to crash and fully load the GPU, wait about five minutes and take those same screenshots again. Post the results here.
 

Hamster1010

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Jan 19, 2015
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Code:
After using Furmark for 5 minutes (Furmark was in fact still running when I screenshot these as you can see at the bottom of the screenshot) specs for FurMark were resolution 1920x1080 and 8x MSAA anti-aliasing

ITYhSsW.jpg


bKryvK3.jpg
 
I don't see that it's an apparent PSU issue, so I think for the time being you can rule that out. It could still be an issue but looking at the sensor readings and without taking measurements with a volt meter I'd say it's ok.

I'd try the driver methods I linked to above and see what happens.

On another note, what windows bit version is installed. Looking at the HWinfo sensors it looks like you only have 3GB of RAM installed with some of it being system reserved. If you have 4GB installed perhaps there is a memory issue. Run CPU-Z and post screenshots of the memory and SPD tabs.
 

Hamster1010

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Jan 19, 2015
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I have done those driver instructions and run into the same problem (also the games themselves demand less memory than I have)

This computer runs Windows 8.1 64-bit

Not only that but I happened to have a 4GB Memory card ready, and I thought it might've been the problem and it was not so I have now put it back in, here is the Memory and SPD tabs

z69F9jp.jpg


BGx6vFE.jpg


2G8Dqpf.jpg


a1DmvCV.jpg


edit: left some slots out
 
Considering the OS wants 2GB, hardware reserves additional memory and games have further memory requirements, more, up to 8GB, is always better. 4GB is enough for general use unless the game titles ask for more as a minimum requirement but with 8GB you won't be likely to ever encounter issues due to the memory.

It could still be an issue related to a faulty module. I'd run Memtest86, for 7 passes, on each module individually.

http://www.memtest86.com/download.htm

Run Seatools for windows on any connected drives to determine health. Run the Short DST and the long generic. Drive brand is irrelevant.

http://www.seagate.com/support/downloads/item/seatools-win-master/