New Home Networking: What Questions Should I Ask Myself?

Where will your Internet connection enter the home? Will you be using a [small] rack in a closet somewhere? Will you want room for a NAS box there, or other centrally-shared peripherals (e.g. printer, fax, scanner/copier, or will they be located somewhere else? Especially if it will indeed be a closet, make sure that location has a suitable power outlet, and you may want room for a UPS.

Cool beans! I'm sure you know to make sure the batteries are in an area that gets adequate ventilation to prevent [explosive] hydrogen build-up.

Consider your lengths and if possible go with all home runs to your head end. Run all Cat6 as it is cheap enough now where there is no reason not too. Terminate into patch panel in your head end and then patch through to your switch. If you become worried that a length may be too long, you could install a switch in a midway point and terminate those cables in the same room to patch through to the switch. You could then patch those two switches together with either a fiber run if the switches have the supporting ports or with another cat6 run. If you have a "normal" size house within reason, you should be able to home run Cat6 cable to a head end.

You could implement QoS and Vlans, but if you do not have a ridiculous amount of connecting equipment then you will probably be fine. I would highly recommend the Netgear ProSafe lineup. A 24 port PoE switch is not that expensive and you will be able to natively rack mount it while only using 1u of space.

Also, with those cable lengths, you should be completely fine to make home runs straight from the station side.

If you have a cluster of systems at point "A" and another cluster of systems at point "B," you might consider using a fiber run between them. If not, you're still well within the 100 meter limit for Ethernet runs.
As to all your different systems, you might want to put all the security devices in their own subnet, but that's an IP issue, not wiring.
For the wiring, if you use conduit it will be easier to pull additional lines later if you need them.

Another option for your security cameras, if power is needed, could be Powerline networking. Especially out to remote light poles on the property, this could cut down on the wiring you need to do.

Also, please remember to use velcro. Zipties can cut into the cabling and ruin the run. Velco is also much easier to modify in the future. If you have the money, I might recommend running 2 or 3 runs to certain areas such as where your computer is located or to where you may have a home entertainment system. When you start adding too many switches to a system, issues can start occurring. Are you also running Cat6 for your phone runs? If you were planning to do that, I would just use Cat5/Cat5e. If you are going to use IP phones then you had might as well run Cat6 as you may want to place something else there later that may require data.

We have had great experiences so far with Netgear GS728TP-100NAS model switches. If you can fit one into your budget it should last you for years and you will be able to rack mount it. It will also allow you to expand later should you wish as it has more ports than what you require.

As for Cat6 patch cables, I would just get ICC cables. They are on the cheaper side and the boots can be a pain but I have had great luck with them so far and have really not had any performance issues. They perform as expected.

For the station side I would highly recommend Leviton QuickPort Cat6 Jacks.

http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-61110-RW6-eXtreme-QuickPort-Connector/dp/B000RATBWQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1428077036&sr=8-1&keywords=leviton+quickport+cat+6

They may be pricey but they last and do the job. As for patch panels, you could go Leviton again, or you could go with a cheaper ICC patch panel. You can definitely tell the quality difference between the two in terms of rigidity while punching down the wire, but I have not noticed a performance decrease with the ICC panels. Just brace the front of the panel with your hand or something while punching if you use the ICC panels.

There are definitely cheaper options out there; however, you get what you put into it. You could always run the cable now and terminate later at the station side with the more expensive keystones as need the jacks to help save some money now but I would recommend terminating everything that you want now as you would be able to validate the cable run. It is much more hard and expensive to go back and replace a cable once everything is roughed in and you find that a cable run is defunct.