FX-8350 Temps with Enermax Liqtech 240

Eh, RAM is RAM, and my system doesn't crash or anything, so spending money on RAM isn't my priority at the moment, lost my job and the UK job market is...well..very very bad. I just thought it'd run cooler, but I suppose it isn't exactly an intel so it would run hotter.

AMD OverDrive gives me somewhat different temperatures from SpeedFan. But idling at about 40 with a Liqtech 240 CPU cooler under no load is kinda, acceptable? Also, it shows thermal margin, im guessing that's how much more it can go before throttling or something?

So....this is embarrassing....when I was younger, like 14 I knew more about PC's than I do now. Never OC'd though, but I tinkered with the BIOS earlier and just used my BIOS OC'er cause idk what half of it means and I'm running at 4.3ghz without touching the voltage at all. By negative thermal margin you mean basically still got room to move? And taking it all the way down to -5C? So 5c off the thermal throttle point?

And ermm...what's the PWM?

I'm currently waiting on another PWM fan hub so I can run my chassis fans seperate from my Rad fans, as I had no control over the rad fans if I plugged them into the CPU header, but as far as I'm aware, this board only has 1 4pin fan header, so whilst I'm here, If i put a y cable off the 4pin and ran 2 fan hubs off of it, would i be able to control them each separately or would I be in trouble, or is there another simpler way that saves me money? Obviously the corsair AF120's aren't PWM, but apparently running them off of a fan hub allows you to control them with voltage or something. I mean currently I can't get my Noctua's to go below about 23% before they basically just stop. And the Corsair's go a little lower but you can tell they're struggling just from the white LED's. I want to run my chassis fan's independent of my rad fans so I can run them at about 50-60% instead, they're not loud at all, the Noctua's are once they get spooled up; so I like to keep them running fairly low when speedfan notes it below 40c.

My next upgrade is an SSD as it's the biggest bottleneck in my system. According to Speedfan my actual System runs at about 40'c idle an goes up to 50'c under prime95. The NZXT H440 has appalling air flow, but call me a sucker for good looks. I also thought that to OC you kinda need to up the voltage once you get to a certain "threshold"? If anyone has any solutions or thoughts/answers to anything I've just typed it'd be appreciated hugely.

Edit: At idle AMD OverDrive says I have within 49-57 thermal margin, 49 on some cores, 57 on others, it fluctuates incredibly quickly but I guess that's kinda expected, this is with AMD Cool'n'Quiet running though, even though it is OC'd to 4.2ghz. This is at 24% fan speed for every fan in my system so, not too bad I guess. Also why doesn't AMD OverDrive let me control any fans? It doesn't even detect any. Some people said I should run my fans in pull instead of push just for cleaning them from dust, but, my fans are currently on the bottom, If i put them on the top without flipping them over then i'd jut be blowing a tonne of air at the top of my case, now they are SP fans so would it still be able to suck the air out? These fans have some "aero fins" on the parts of plastic that run across the front of the fan blade, but only have them on the side the arrow is fainting, something to do with channeling the air and to cut down on noise, surely if i was using them to suck they wouldn't be anywhere near as efficient, and I would rather blow air from outside into the case but that then just brings me back round to the dust problem, I don't want to have to completely rip my rig apart every time just to clean the rad fins.

Ahh I see I see! Well, as they're is no way to fashion a fan to the front or rear of the motherboard, the rear because of no room behind the case and the front because it's a big plexiglass window, I'm going to make up a bracket so I can "angle" the rear exhaust fan a little so it at least points at the cooling block, and I'm going to make it an intake instead of exhaust too, I'm hoping that the air from the front 3 intakes and rear intake will kinda clash just above the block itself, so it'll create some un-smooth airflow around the motherboard.

I am running with a CPU multiplier of 21.5x for 4.3ghz, with an actual of 4.290ghz, but with Turbo enabled I get to a maximum of 21x and it won't let me adjust it anymore, it's like it maxes out, but this is in AOD, whether it'll let me use turbo and set the multiplier to 21.5x in the BIOS is a different story. I know that if I OC'd in the BIOS it wouldn't exactly register it in AOD, like the target mhz would be at 4000 but the actual cores would be running at like 4200, so I'm guessing it's either OC in one or the other, BIOS seems more stable.

I have a dedicated fan controller already, the NZXT comes with one as standard and as much as it's ten pin, it's not linked to the motherboard itself so yeah I can run the chassis fans at 100% all the time but with no way to monitor or adjust them at anytime. So I got a phantek one, with a single 4pin that's used for power and to send the PWM signal through, but only problem is that all the fans follow the same RPM as the fan in "fan1" header on the hub. So I have my rad fans in fan1 on the hub, so all chassis fans follow in suit of whatever speedfan tells the rad fans to do (also the minute speedfan registers the CPU hitting 50c it shoots them up to 100% no matter how I set the fan curve in fan control).

I kinda guessed that, Noctua do a undervolt adapter you can buy separately but I'm not sure that'll let me get them any lower RPM wise than what they're already reaching. They're sat at about 1300rpm at 26%. I'm running dual 120 fans at the bottom of my rad pushing outward, acting as an exhaust. Maybe mounting them on top and blowing air in from outside the case would help a fair bit with PWM cooling, the air that get's blown out the top vents especially if I'm playing a game isn't exactly "cool".

I find the system likes to crash a bit if I OC above 4.2 which seems a little low, but this is all without touching the voltage, and this is all without doing it manually too. If I do it in the BIOS then it's just with the OC software in the actual BIOS, which seems to work pretty damn well if I'm honest, let's me set the multiplier to my own choosing or select a preset of going up in 5% increments. But if I do it through AOD, again it lets me set my own multiplier, all be it with less "custom" settings, always in the .5 increments. Would you recommend OC'ing through the BIOS instead of AOD? If I'm honest my system isn't exactly stable, my HDD's aren't great and they keep saying on startup they need to do a disk check, but ultimately i'm going to swap to a 1TB WD Whatever colour and a SSD for my boot and main games.