I have a Seagate ST3000MD:
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/4tb-3tb-hdd,3183-4.html
Was storing some data on the hard drive a couple weeks ago when I had a program throw an error at me, mentioning something about an I/O read error. As a precaution, I ran chkdsk /r on both partitions of the hard drive - it found some stuff, fixed it, and I just moved on.
A week ago, I noticed performance on the hard drive was *extremely* slow. Games were taking a long time to load and large continguous files were copying at 1 MB/S.
I tried to run chkdsk /R on it again but that took forever - I sat through the whole thing up until stage 3. It found and repaired buttload of errors but once it hit stage 4 I had no choice but to cancel it as I did not have the time to wait for it.
Ran SMART tests on it using CrystalDiskTools and SeaTools and they both took *forever* to detect the drive (the HDD activity LED light on my computer stayed solidly on).
I took this as a sign that I had to start evacuating data, except the thing was copying at a piss poor 1-2 MB/s, so it was taking forever. I had about 1 TB of data to copy.
While I was doing this copying the drive would randomly just drop itself out. I had to hot unplug the drive and hot replug it in, go to Device Manager, and rescan for hardware changes for it to pop back up.
I was able to keep this up for a few days, but today that trick no longer worked. Even letting it cool down for a few hours and popping it back in didn't help.
The hard drive spins up fine - I don't hear any clicking. It just won't show up in Windows. In fact, if I try to restart the computer with the HDD plugged in - it kind of shows up in the BIOS, but then the computer ends up hanging after the drive detection phase of the POST.
The drive is still under warranty so I plan on RMAing it, but I want to get as much data off the thing as possible. If it wasn't under warranty I was thinking of doing a PCB swap because I suspect it's something electrical that's wrong, but I don't know.
I've read numerous articles and watched Youtube videos claiming the "freezer trick" doesn't work, so I won't resort to that (plus the place I live in has rather high humidity so condensation is likely). Anyone have any suggestions for last ditch methods I can use to recover this?
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/4tb-3tb-hdd,3183-4.html
Was storing some data on the hard drive a couple weeks ago when I had a program throw an error at me, mentioning something about an I/O read error. As a precaution, I ran chkdsk /r on both partitions of the hard drive - it found some stuff, fixed it, and I just moved on.
A week ago, I noticed performance on the hard drive was *extremely* slow. Games were taking a long time to load and large continguous files were copying at 1 MB/S.
I tried to run chkdsk /R on it again but that took forever - I sat through the whole thing up until stage 3. It found and repaired buttload of errors but once it hit stage 4 I had no choice but to cancel it as I did not have the time to wait for it.
Ran SMART tests on it using CrystalDiskTools and SeaTools and they both took *forever* to detect the drive (the HDD activity LED light on my computer stayed solidly on).
I took this as a sign that I had to start evacuating data, except the thing was copying at a piss poor 1-2 MB/s, so it was taking forever. I had about 1 TB of data to copy.
While I was doing this copying the drive would randomly just drop itself out. I had to hot unplug the drive and hot replug it in, go to Device Manager, and rescan for hardware changes for it to pop back up.
I was able to keep this up for a few days, but today that trick no longer worked. Even letting it cool down for a few hours and popping it back in didn't help.
The hard drive spins up fine - I don't hear any clicking. It just won't show up in Windows. In fact, if I try to restart the computer with the HDD plugged in - it kind of shows up in the BIOS, but then the computer ends up hanging after the drive detection phase of the POST.
The drive is still under warranty so I plan on RMAing it, but I want to get as much data off the thing as possible. If it wasn't under warranty I was thinking of doing a PCB swap because I suspect it's something electrical that's wrong, but I don't know.
I've read numerous articles and watched Youtube videos claiming the "freezer trick" doesn't work, so I won't resort to that (plus the place I live in has rather high humidity so condensation is likely). Anyone have any suggestions for last ditch methods I can use to recover this?
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