Designing my desk computer project and was wondering about cooling.

Miles Crystal

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I have been designing, saving, and purchasing components for my customer desk for a year now. I have a question on the cooling and wanted some input and suggestions if it needs changed before I buy the materials. I don't want to do water cooling if I don't have to. Here is the desk/cart and the pc area with cooling. The left side is intake that will have a filter on the back opening, and the right side is exhaust.
Thank you so much for you help and suggestions.
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that all looks fine! just make sure the desk is in a well ventilated room. Good luck with that project i would love to see how it turns out. :)
 

Miles Crystal

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My concern was the air flow. This will be on wheels, so I can easily move it away from the wall in my woodshop to get access to cables in the back and filters on the openings. The woodshop is usually 68-85 degrees depending. I will post some pictures as I can during the build.
 

Miles Crystal

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For the filter, I am going to use a K&N filter material so I can clean it. Sorry, I'm a car guy, lol. I am having a hard time finding an 80mm Blue LED fan for the CPU. It uses a small 4pin connector on the motherboard.
 
Beautiful!

K&N air filter material (i used them in my first gen crx si) will *NOT* flow nearly enough air with PC fans. PC fans do not create enough pressure unlike auto intake manifold pressure. Look into a simple screen cloth like is on case filters, or use a cut down cheap fiberglass (not HEPA) furnace filter. You are looking for max flow with very low pressure.

The build looks at high risk for a loop of "hot air leaves on the right side and is pulled back in from the fans on the left side since both flows meet at the back of the desk (?? guessing from picture, look like they exit 10 inches from each other then hit a wall that is behind desk.). Is there a way to duct the cold air / hot air away from each other, or will both exit and entry be at the back of the drawer area ? (if you are thinking of a low power build this is much less of a problem). Could the left side fans exit left ? If the right side exhaust fans exit right side your legs will get too warm.

What components are you planning? A simple web surfing computer (low power laptop class) is going to be fine. A 300W typical power gaming system is another problem (gaming in a woodshop is usually 68-85 degrees depending seems interesting. Looking at part schema, etc. on a PC while in a workshop makes sense but dual monitor for that seemed extreme)...

For a simple web surf system consider a laptop. It's already optimized for low power and the brick could be outside the drawer saving 20% of the heat. Customer ducting for input and output air to the laptop exhausts could save you a lot of fans, or the enclosure you have should work fine. (many laptops reverse airflow to their fans to remove dust buildup, so be sure you know which way the air flows if you fan feed the ducts). But a laptop doesn't look good in your window. A power MB + CPU (such as is used in All-in-one builds that don't dump heat well with integrated, not gaming video would drop into that drawer with no effort. Some have external power bricks rather than PSU with fans, that would help also.

Are you using a computer case in the build? If so good - cases are designed to put air flow where it's needed and not have dead air spots. You'd just need to make sure that the case gets cold air into all the input areas, and the output heat is ducted to your exhaust fans. I'm guessing you are not from the neat glass window.

If not using a case for a gaming rig (also good) consider where the PSU output air is going. A duct to your exhaust fan could work wonders. So could mounting the PSU where it's exhaust fan replaces one of your exhaust fans. Look at where the PSU draws cold air and give it a good supply. PSU will dump 50W+ of heat while gaming.

Consider a closed shell video card that exhausts air out the back of case rather than into the case. That could really help if you can line it up with one of your exhaust fans. Nvidia makes some nice ones, and is also the maker of the best video performance per watt video cards. Suggest you use an nvidia Maxwell based graphics card for gaming. They come at a number of price/performance points.

Consider a spot fan for MB voltage regulator (the MB will have a heat-sink on it, you just point a spot fan at the heat-sink. Fear is dead spots on MB components that normally get airflow in a case. Likewise use the intel downdraft CPU cooler not a (better) flow thru cooler (hyper 212) so that it fits in your drawer and so that it blows air down across the memory and MB components. MBs are designed to make this work.

POST PHOTOS when done. Really nice design. If you can say use of the PC people will have fun suggesting low power, heat tolerant components. Fro example, SSDs hate heat (the failure rate goes up with temps), so mounting disk in put airflow would be good. Spinning disk also don't like heat but they are much less sensitive. (I work with enterprise class ssd fail data so this is truth). ;-)
 

Miles Crystal

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Thank you both for the information.

I did wonder about the heat exhausted going over to the intake port. Debated on putting the intake opening to the left side of the desk and the exhaust where is it.

I actually have case parts from and old computer case that I am using the motherboard tray and back panel. The PSU is mounted to the back panel with the fan blowing right into one of the exhaust fans. I made the internal size to be as close to the computer case as possible.

This is just a cool custom build for my enjoyment and use. I have always wanted to build a desk with and integrated computer that you can see since I was a kid with my first glass desk. I use this computer for web research, my cad drawings and plans for projects, and office software, not a gamer. The two monitors helps me with my cad to spread out my work and make it easier.
 

highstandardz

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Well, going strong on the build. I have some pictures.

https://photos-3.dropbox.com/t/2/AABqJww4bd6OVb4S0KNRd0gNb77wgXYPs3AU1eRhAt4vyw/12/247718015/jpeg/32x32/1/_/1/2/2015-08-08%2011.29.39.jpg/ENKVtuABGNQaIAIoAg/WRCqT4F01yKaeInOUu9Mgq2zlyJi4yU1b5rVXQk_MLA?size=1280x960&size_mode=2
https://photos-5.dropbox.com/t/2/AACS6LdimuQbXmmWK7otw-3jkNloOq69gXDabaBR74VQpg/12/247718015/jpeg/32x32/1/_/1/2/2015-08-18%2010.22.22.jpg/ENKVtuABGNQaIAIoAg/Q_5c6YneRptw-_ajuIhxTT-F0wKGJ7TPOZtYIjikXLA?size=1280x960&size_mode=2
https://photos-6.dropbox.com/t/2/AADLa5IMCyPR5Srxi-PXICMB3zKYyGNs3SLLn0flVfZ6Zg/12/247718015/jpeg/32x32/1/_/1/2/2015-08-21%2015.36.20.jpg/ENKVtuABGNQaIAIoAg/NtlpPQoR02DknOFzczLAuBbqZ_JDnMMlmOjrJMiDu3o?size=1280x960&size_mode=2

Is there a good site to purchase connectors, (male and female, with terminals pins), to make my own connectors that you guys recommend?
 

highstandardz

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highstandardz

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Can't believe how I forgot to post a finished pic, LOL.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hsydqj5kh5ag9kd/2015-09-26%2019.44.41.jpg?dl=0

Turned out nice and been using. The filter material wound up being leggings over a cutout. I clean it every couple of weeks, the pc is running great.

I do have one question. The front usb 3.0 worked on the old case and the new front panel usb 3.0 doesn't. Do they make and adapter to go from HP/MSI 7778 mother pin layout to a standard pin layout?
 
Really nice. It came out better than any of the pieces looked.

Re the USB3, the connector should be totally standard. Look for lose connections then look for chipset driver for the MB and make sure the USB3 (which might need a MB unique driver) is working in device manager.
 

highstandardz

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Thank you. I am happy with most of it, just wish I could have found a piece of spalted maple for the top. Eventually I will find some spalted maple and change the top.

I checked for connections, drivers, and msi bios. Even contacted MSI and HP. I did find and artical about HP and usb 3.0 header connector being different than standard. I can plug the usb 3.0 assembly that was mounted to the original HP case and it works fine, but anything else it doesn't. The rear usb 3.0 work just fine, only the header plug to feed the front ports don't work right.
 
bummer. The doc for your MB does call out an internal USB3 header. http://support.hp.com/us-en/document/c03343058 ".. I can plug the usb 3.0 assembly that was mounted to the original HP case and it works fine, but anything else it doesn't..." wow.

Easiest is probably to buy a $20 PCIe x1 usb3 card if you want the front panel to work. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815124120

Or if you just want the USB3 port to work at USB2 speeds you can use a $10 adapter to plug the USB3 cable into a free MB usb2 header. http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Internal-19-Pin-Adapter-G11303050-RT/dp/B00B1RM5YU

Hardest would be to play with a meter and find which pins on the working HP cable go where then try to build an interposer that got the pins right. I'd guess this would be more painful than just buying a PCI card with USB3.

update: I'd guess from how clean an implementation you chose that you would not want to do this, but.... if you hooked up the HP cable to the MB you could use a $10 USB3 male to USB3 header adapter to connect the case front usb3 port. Something like http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-3-0-Motherboard-20Pin-Header-to-USB-Type-A-Male-Adapter-CablesOnline-GC-U25-/270887046286?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368