Help creating a liquid cooling loop

Have you read through the watercooling sticky at least a few times?

Also to clarify, reservoir size doesn't make any difference in cooling; it is preference.

There isn't really a 'best component' but there are a lot of reviews on different components, each of which are dependent upon the flowrate and cooling ability of the radiators and fans being used (delta-T of the loop). The sticky is meant to give you an understanding of what components do, why they do them and how to figure out what they can do for you based on the remainder of components you are selecting. There isn't a watercooling sticky out there that 'just tells you what to go buy' since new hardware and components are always coming out. It is up to you, the consumer, to understand what you are attempting to do and figure out the loop you want to build based on budget, cooling goals and aesthetics.

Components are all compatible - almost all use G 1/4 fitting sizes, which is the universal watercooling fitting thread size, so your barbs or compression fittings will work in anything that uses this. Do not confuse G 1/4 fitting size with the ID and OD of the tubing size being used, these are different and there is a section in the sticky that covers that, as well.

Why is this a risky project?

I'm not trying to criticize your need to ask questions, I just wanted you to help yourself learn what YOU need to know in order to make good decisions. What if you asked and someone on the forum gave you poor advice, which you then took and spent several hundred dollars on (or insert applicable currency)? Knowing what you need and why you need it (or want...need is a strong word when it comes to custom PC cooling solutions) is key in understanding what you're getting into.

Relax...I'm only trying to help. To be honest, you've really stuck by your guns and done a lot more than 95% of those looking for quick answers...this is a good thing.

Pump: DDC or D5 are your best bets. These are often rebranded by Koolance, Swiftech and a few others like Phobya, etc. There are other decent alternatives, but for the money, these are the ones I only buy. I own an MCP350, MCP355 and D5 and all have been rock solid. D5 ran for over 7 years and still runs...I just don't currently use it since I have an mITX box...it won't fit. D5 comes in Vario and fixed speed. Vario goes from speeds 1-5, fixed runs approx at speed 4 of the Vario. D5 has higher flow rates and good head pressure, DDC is lower flow, but really good head pressure. D5 is usually native 1/2" ID fitting size, but some come with G 1/4 fittings. DDC is natively 3/8" ID tubing size, but some use G 1/4 also.

Radiators: Most brands you will find are pretty decent, some better than others, depending on what fans you will be using. High FPI (fins per inch) radiators work best with high CFM and high static pressure fans. Low FPI rads work well with most fan speeds, better with high. If you run fans with speeds lower than 1200 RPM, running them in PULL is typically more effective on high FPI rads. Lower speed fans are better in PUSH (typically) on low FPI rads, but some find this negligible either way. For example, my 140mm rad is running on push with my 140 fan since it's pretty high flow and high RPM. My 240 rad is running pull with 2 slim fans.

Tubing sizes greater than 3/8" ID doesn't really result in any greater cooling or flow rates...it *does* but the performance curve really begins to flatten out above 3/8" ID.

I'd suggest colored tubing over dyes or coolants. Distilled water and some sort of anti-microbial works just fine. PT Nuke something similar works well (usually copper or cupric sulfate) or you can go with a chemical/biocide- which is what I do...from a pet store. Never had crawlies or green goop.

Clean, clean, clean, CLEAN new radiators. Hot soapy water soak and rinse a few times helps. If you can also run a few rinses with a 25% vinegar 75% water mix a few times also, that helps. Rinse everything really well...no soap should remain. There is oily residue from flux and the copper/brass forming process that needs to be removed as well as residual metal flakes and junk that remains. Trust me...new radiators are really dirty...you don't want that running through your pump impeller...it would be like sandblasting it over and over as the loop runs.

Never EVER let a pump run dry...always insure it has water to flow into it. Many pump bearings are ceramic and they will permanently fail if they are allowed to run dry and overheat.

When filling a loop, if your pump begins to suck air, kill the power and prime the loop more and/or refill your reservoir. Power the pump on to run the loop until water is low...Repeat these steps until loop is full. Some pumps like my 5 1/2" bay res DDC pump require that you prime the pump via a little priming port before filling the reservoir and powering the first time. Be sure to read your pump instructions to see if you have any special needs to address. A DDC or D5 pump that is well taken care of should last a very, very long time...I've heard of guys running D5's for a decade without impeller replacement.

Welcome to Toms Hardware ringmany, Good info rubix has given you, here's some from me.

Standard water cooling fittings that fit what you have listed are G1/4 threaded O-ring sealed for the end that screws into the rad,water blocks, etc.

The other end of the fitting needs to match the ID (Inside Diameter), of the tubing you decide to run with barbed fittings the OD (Outside Diameter) is not critical when using the proper stainless steel hose clamps, but is critical when using sized to fit clamps, make sure those type of clamps are also OD sized.

Flexible tubing used with compression style fittings, is ID/OD critical, meaning if you wanted to say run 1/2" ID tubing you can acquire it in 5/8" OD or 3/4" OD so the fittings would need to be size compatible to properly seal.

(Compression fittings are more expensive and are more toward the aesthetics or looks of the end result)

Example: If you ran 1/2" ID tubing and wanted to run compression fittings you also need the OD of the tubing so lets say the OD is 5/8", then you need a G1/4 1/2" ID, 5/8" OD compression fitting.

Make sure you apply the UK conversion over to mm to get properly sized.

Many of us use barbed fittings and stainless steel hose clamps for various reasons, my reasoning is simply they are cheaper, easier to setup, and once it is all sealed up inside the case hardly noticeable what you used anyway.

What you choose is totally up to you.

I fully understand the risky fear to get it right, there is always a fear of the unknown so ask your questions until you are confident before pulling the purchasing trigger.

We all have our own ideas of what we feel is best and most of our suggestions are relating to products we have actually used and regarding pumps I am a D5 variable speed pump user, it is an excellent workhorse for my needs, has served me well with so far no failures, we all know nothing lasts forever, but constantly running for 3 years now is good IMO.

I run 2 Swiftech MCP655 variable speed pumps as I run 2 independent loops, one for the CPU (Because I overclock the CPU much higher than most), and the other for the GPU, which isolates the DeltaT from each loop from adding load heat to each other.

Here's an education in DeltaT for you to look over, written by Conumdrum.

http://www.overclockers.com/guide-deltat-water-cooling/

I suggest you check this out as well.

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2196038/air-cooling-water-cooling-things.html