Need advice.. EVGA GTX580 Classified [Hydro Copper] Cooling Solutions...

John Arneson

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May 13, 2013
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Im looking for a water cooler system for my EVGA GTX580 Classified card [Hydro Copper] . It seems hard to find clear information on what the proper system is to use?

Notes:
* The card has plain 3/8in Barbs installed only.
* Lower cost is good.
* No need to OC vga as of now.

Secondary Questions:
1. My comp is a built by me (Air Cooled) Core 2 Quad Q9550 Yorkfield Quad-Core 2.83GHz LGA 775 95W. Q: If it would make more sense.. I could consider Watercooling the CPU also?
2. Psu is an Antec TruePower Quattro (850w) with 4 12v / 18amp rails. I think the card requires 42amps . Q: Is this psu adequate?

I can be a resourceful type and so I'm typically able to retrofit parts well. But any ideas just need to be sensible.

Any info would be greatly apprish..
Thank you :)
 
Solution
Most reservoirs are plastic, yes. Not 100% sure what that dual bay reservoir/pump is made of. I assume plastic for the majority of it. But painted surfaces should be decent. Just that raw metal to metal with a liquid medium that causes a lot of issues.

Performance-PCs is pretty much a one-stop shop for NA at the moment. Straight from manufacturer and a few Ebay and Amazon stores are all that is left. FrozenCPU is out of business (though the website is still up and lists inventory and still takes orders)

Most of the water cooling knowledge about metal interaction comes from some early nickel plating attempts. It didn't end well for a lot of people and manufacturers weren't honoring warranties. Pretty much all the full cover blocks...

Eximo

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I assume this is a recent acquisition? Not much cause for a GTX580 (Though still a fine card, roughly equivalent to a GTX960)

Well a pump, radiator, and reservoir at the minimum (and some fans). Do you know if the barbs are replaceable?

Power supply should be fine as long as you split the connectors amongst the rails. The cabling should have done this for you, doesn't hurt to double check though.

Since you don't need a CPU block, most of the kits will be unneccesary, unless you want one.

Looking at about $150 no matter how you do it.

Popular if you have the room for it:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/new-xspc-x2o-dc-750-dual-5-25-bay-res-pump-reservoir-combo-v4-black.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/magicool-pro-slim-profile-2x120mm-radiator-black.html

That totals $90 without shipping. Add your choice of 120mm fans and get some hose and fittings. Distilled water and a kills coil (piece of silver to put in the reservoir) and you should be good to go.
 

John Arneson

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May 13, 2013
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*I assume this is a recent acquisition? Yes bought it off a dude for 200 bucks. Not sure really if it even works (Wonder how I can try it out w/o spending a ton..

Another deal is I have 2 ATI 58** is Xfire. If I remove the Driver Suite / Software.. Windows wont reboot. So thats another something to deal with. lol

*I do split PSU connectors.

*This card most likely out performs my Q9550. If it made much of a dif to Watercool the cpu to OC it up to get more from the vga card.. Well maybe I would :)

Anyway I'll leave it at that and I will evaluate the links you sent and return.
Thanks Eximo..
 

Eximo

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You could probably get away with firing it up and booting into the BIOS with a fan blowing on it. It won't draw horrendous amounts of power unless it has to do work.

Mine used to clock down to 20, 40, and 80 Mhz when truly idle.

Q9550 should be a decent match actually. Still a potent CPU. Overclocking a Q9550 can have enormous gains though. 4+ Ghz was quite common.

Try this for your driver issues: http://www.guru3d.com/files-details/display-driver-uninstaller-download.html
 

John Arneson

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"draw horrendous amounts of power" Like it when it does that! ;)

"Q9550 should be a decent match actually. Still a potent CPU. Overclocking a Q9550 can have enormous gains though. 4+ Ghz was quite common." ...

Q9550 + 16gigs DDR2 on a Gigabyte GA-EP45-UD3P. Ive in the past have oc'd it but on air didn't seem to want go too far so I set it back to stock. You think on Water it could make it all worth a permanent OC solution?
 

Eximo

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The stock rating for the ASUS DCUIIs I had was 244W, never did take a measurement when I clocked them to 900Mhz (Lots of users had theirs running at over 1000Mhz, which is something stock Kepler GPUs started doing at the GTX770.)

Well, if you want to go whole hog I do like to tout my recently installed H240-X(280mm), or H220-X(240mm) if you don't have the room. Pump, Reservoir, Radiator, CPU Block all in one and it is designed to be taken apart. On the plus side for you the stock fittings are 3/8" so you could basically add two hoses and be done without overclocking. To overclock you should probably add a radiator.

H240-X is $150
H220-X is $140

http://www.swiftech.com/H240-X.aspx

You can check my build link for the fittings you would need to convert up to 1/2"
 

John Arneson

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May 13, 2013
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Hmm ok we are getting things in order. Its a bit hard to tell though if you're (or when you're) speaking of the GPU or CPU within the last comments. For me at least sorry ;)

I'll say this then:
*We know the GPU has to be Watercooled by design so thats a given. And is probably plenty fast to support even an OC'd Q9550. As if this is the case I wouldn't be necessarily OCing the Video Card.

*The Q9550 on the other hand could benefit the GTX580 / if I were to Watercool and OC the CPU.
--------------------------------

*I'm sure the Barbs are interchangeable.

*I don't mind not having the room to install a Pump, Reservoir, Radiator. Heck the GTX580 is a 1/4in too long for the case. My forte is making things work so I'll push on through the pit falls with good results.

*You seem to have a good grasp on these things.. I don't need to push CPU to 4ghz but if cooling it with water has the possibility to let me reliably continuously run it up near these higher regions I would more likely go Whole Hog :)

So now its all about value...

To make it more simple once you have all of your input on these topics I will go through all the info you've given and reply at once.

Thanks a ton!
 

John Arneson

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May 13, 2013
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Ok here is what I came up with just from Performance store...

http://prntscr.com/7inag3
(Let me know you can see it?)

*I would to make sure I have everything I would need in the system?

I switched out the Radi. Going with the bigger one and fan is more $ but not by a lot when you double up the 120mm fans cost. If you have other idea's based on this Im happy to hear them also.

H240-X CPU Liquid Cooling KiT is sweet btw.
 

Eximo

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Not sure about the 200mm radiator and the fan. Those are rather oversized. If you have a place to mount it and the fan fits the radiator, you should be fine.

Another small detail. That is an aluminum radiator, and I believe the GPU block is copper. It is not recommended to mix metals in the loop as one will eat the other through electrical decomposition.
 

John Arneson

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May 13, 2013
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"200mm radiator and the fan rather oversized"
Yeah they are but I can make these things work. Those large fans are nice and quiet to. I Have a old but real nice alu Antec case. I cut a widow in the side panel and that big Rati could be mounted just outside / with the fan on the inside of the custom plastic window. Could be a sweet setup.

"aluminum radiator, and I believe the GPU block is copper"
I was an engine machinist for 15 years. You are so right. (Water+Minerals+Electrical+Heat) make Acids that eat metal. Compound that with mixing metals and vibration you will have issues.

I should have thought of it.

I have to change up things I guess. Convenience is getting it all from one store :\

Ok so this what I'm dealing with:
*Copper VGA.
*Copper CPU Block.
*Copper Radiator.

Should the Reservoir then be Plastic?
Not so sure thats as much an issue.

Thanks Eximo :)
 

Eximo

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Most reservoirs are plastic, yes. Not 100% sure what that dual bay reservoir/pump is made of. I assume plastic for the majority of it. But painted surfaces should be decent. Just that raw metal to metal with a liquid medium that causes a lot of issues.

Performance-PCs is pretty much a one-stop shop for NA at the moment. Straight from manufacturer and a few Ebay and Amazon stores are all that is left. FrozenCPU is out of business (though the website is still up and lists inventory and still takes orders)

Most of the water cooling knowledge about metal interaction comes from some early nickel plating attempts. It didn't end well for a lot of people and manufacturers weren't honoring warranties. Pretty much all the full cover blocks available are now straight copper restrictive flow systems.
 
Solution

John Arneson

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May 13, 2013
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Yep ok thanks Eximo. I'll get back to rearranging that stuff soon as I get a few minutes. see what I end up with and post.

You been good help with good news and I'm going to give you the Solution Solved now. You can add comments if you would like at any point it all helps. :)

Thanks man