RAM slots 1 and 2 cause power cycles...computer won't boot

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uh oh spaghettios

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Jul 1, 2015
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I am building my first computer and my problem is that if I put a stick of ram in slot 1 or 2 then the computer will not boot, rather cycle on and off. From what research I've done it seems like other people have had similar problems. However nothing I've tried so far has helped.
If I put ram in slots 3 and 4 then my computer will start up just fine. The motherboard recognizes both sticks. My question is if it is ok to just put the ram in slots 3 and 4 (as opposed to 1 and 3 or 2 and 4)? Also, if this is an indication of a bad motherboard, will this problem be self contained or start affecting things other things later on?
The reason I ask these questions is that I'd rather not have to send the motherboard back... but if it really is a problem then I definitely will.


UPDATE: When I used the Hyper 212 Evo I had to have it very loose on top of the cpu in order to boot with ram in slots 1 or 2. After I figured this out I started to fiddle with how much pressure I was applying with the Evo. I probably took it off and put it on again 4 or 5 times and then eventually no matter how loose I screwed it down the computer wouldn't boot. (all this time the computer will still boot with RAM in slots 3 or 4).

I decided to just put the stock heatsink on the cpu (i5 4690k) and lo and behold the computer will now start with RAM in slots 1 or 2. But... with the stock heat sink my idle temps are 10-15 degrees higher than with the Evo. :(

Any suggestions?? I would really like to have my computer run cooler.
 
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What temperatures are you seeing? Did you thoroughly clean the original Intel thermal grease off before installing the stock cooler?

I haven't used watercooling myself but it sounds like it's gotten a lot better over the past few years. I would think the heat exchanger would have less mass and less lever arm and so should be more mechanically stable, but I've got no direct experience to back that up...
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Vahe Bro A

Vahe Bro A

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Jun 2, 2015
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it's not going to cause extra problems. but that's weird how the 1 and 2 are messed up. Just letting you know If you do not put the ram in correctly it will give Code 55 on the motherboards Debugger ( idk if you have one or not) but Sometimes When you put in the RAM and you hear it click a little in place sometimes it's not in place.

try to install it like this. put the ram in half way then push in the left side (where it does not have the lock) make sure that side is put in all the way. then push down the right side just so it goes in to a point where you think it's about to lock into place. once you got it into that position push it in hard and fast so the ram locks it's self in quickly and nice. If you have to push the locker up in order to lock it then it's not in correctly.

just try. I had old RAM and i took 1 of them out to check what brand it was so i can look up the speed of it. and when i put it back my computer started restarting and i saw Code 55 on the debugger on the motherboard and i got scared because 55 is ram. i thought i messed up my ram or something. and i took it out and reinstalled it better and the computer booted up nice.

idk it can be that the motherboard has defective RAM slots. I would personally RMA the board and do 1-3-2-4 setup. also why should you have a defective motherboard when you just got it. But try reinstalling the rams better.
 
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uh oh spaghettios

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Yes if there's one thing I've become good at today it is at installing RAM correctly.. When I put them in I the lockers click into place just how they are supposed to. I guess I will send the motherboard back.
 
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Bill-777

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Typically, you'll have two each of two different colored RAM slots, say blue and black on the board. If your installing a dual ram kit (2 sticks) you should use two slots of the same color. Use the color that matches channel one. Your motherboard manual should have more details on valid configurations. Some simply won't work.

Of course the specs of the RAM kit need to be supported on the motherboard. You can't install 1600Mhz RAM in 800Mhz only board, etc...

Also, some boards can be very picky about what RAM they'll work with. The manufacturer will often publish a list of certified RAM. If the specs are all right and it still doesn't work, chose from the vendor's certified list.
 
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uh oh spaghettios

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So I found the problem... and now have another one. The issue was that the cpu cooler that I am using - the Hyper 212 Evo - was tightened down too much. However the only way I can get the computer to turn on with the RAM in the proper slots is to have the cpu cooler so loose that the heatsink will twist. For example, after I have loosened the screws on the cpu cooler when I reattach the fan to the heatsink the heatsink will twist on top of the actual cpu. To me that doesn't seem very good, but maybe it's okay? I don't know. I feel like if I try and send the motherboard back they will say everything is fine with it so I'm not sure if it's worth it to do that.
 
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norsestar

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Apr 8, 2014
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If you can loosen the cooler and get the RAM to work then there's nothing wrong with the motherboard. Having the cooler loose enough to twist doesn't sound like it's going to make good thermal contact, but that's a big cooler and maybe it just gives you more leverage to twist it. I've seen a number of threads from people having trouble with RAM and PCIe if an aftermarket cooler is installed and overtightened. Are you planning to overclock? If not, then the stock cooler should be adequate.
 
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uh oh spaghettios

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I've been working on it and it seems the only thing that works is to have the stock cooler on. But my temps are much, much higher. Probably won't overclock, but definitely would like lower temps. Any ideas for a cooling solution that doesn't put so much pressure on the cpu? Idk much about water cooling, would that be a possibility?
 
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norsestar

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Apr 8, 2014
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What temperatures are you seeing? Did you thoroughly clean the original Intel thermal grease off before installing the stock cooler?

I haven't used watercooling myself but it sounds like it's gotten a lot better over the past few years. I would think the heat exchanger would have less mass and less lever arm and so should be more mechanically stable, but I've got no direct experience to back that up...
 
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Bill-777

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You should consider a different cooler, as well. Some motherboards simply won't support certain larger coolers due to space constraints. It's hard to say without seeing your system....

If you decide to return the board, as long as you haven't damaged it and still have all the packing materials, you should be able to exchange it. Make sure to reattach the CPU socket protector, when packing it up. If the socket gets damaged the board is worthless and your exchange will be denied. Finally, I'd simply be honest about your reasons for exchanging. Picking the wrong board for your desired system configuration or similar should be good enough for most vendors to exchange a board, provided you return it in a salable state. You maybe charged a restocking fee, as well.
 
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uh oh spaghettios

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My bios said my computer was at 55-57 Celsius when I had the stock cooler on. I took it off, cleaned of the thermal paste and used the thermal paste from the 212 Evo. When I put it back on I could not boot the computer again.

I think I'm at the point where I'll need to buy something new... In this case do you think a new motherboard would be the solution? If I'm the one who messed things up by over tightening the cpu cooler then I would rather buy a new part than return it.
 
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