How hot should my CPU be running? (i5-4670k)

SneakyRed · Jul 3, 2015

I'm worried my CPU is running way to hot but i'm not sure... CPU Thermometer says I am getting approximately 95 degrees Celsius on all cores and that is while writing this with barley any load on it. Those seem like quite high temperatures to me, but i'm not sure.

Specs:
CPU: i5-4670K @ 3.40GHz with stock cooler
GPU: EVGA GTX 980 superclocked with acx 2.0
RAM: 16GB G.SKILL Trident X Series @ 2400MHz
MOBO: Z87-G43
PSU: CX850M
Storage: 250GB Samsung 840 evo ssd
Case: Corsair carbide 200r
OS: windows 7

i7Baby · Jul 3, 2015

CPU temps should be 40C max idle and 60C max gaming - at 22C ambient.

CPU temp is about 5C less than average core temp. Get CPU temp from your mobo utility software.

CompuTronix · Jul 3, 2015

SneakyRed,

Except for the stock cooler, nice rig!

Here's the typical operating range for Core temperature:

80C Hot
70C Warm (Heavy Load)
60C Norm
50C Norm (Medium Load)
40C Norm
30C Cool (Idle)

Core temperature is the standard for thermal measurement because it's consistently more accurate than CPU temperature.

Although CPU Thermometer measures Core temperatures, it's not a recommended utility because it's not always accurate.

Core Temp is an excellent utility, or even better, use Real Temp to measure your Core temperatures, as it was developed specifically for Intel processors: Real Temp - http://www.techpowerup.com/downloads/2089/real-temp-3-70/

Rergardless, it's very likely that your stock cooler has popped a push-pin loose from the motherboard, which is a common problem. This causes poor contact pressure between the cooler and the CPU, resulting in high temperatures in BIOS, as well as in Windows at idle, and especially at 100% workload.

You can troubleshoot this problem by pushing firmly on each corner of the cooler for about 30 seconds while watching your load temperatures. When you see a significant drop, you've found the loose push-pin.

The push-pins can be deceivingly tricky to get them fully inserted through the motherboard and properly latched.

(1) To re-seat a single loose push-pin, release the latch mechanism to the retracted clockwise position, then reset it to the counterclockwise position, but do NOT push on it yet.

(2) To get the pin fully inserted through the motherboard, push only on the leg, NOT on the top of the latch.

(3) While holding the leg firmly against the motherboard with one hand, you can now push on the top of the latch with your other hand until the latch clicks.

(4) If you're re-seating the entire cooler, then be sure to latch the pins across from one another, rather than next to one another. Use an "X" pattern, so as to apply even pressure during installation.

Intel Stock Cooler Installation Guide - http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/338655-28-intel-stock-cooler-installation-guide

If you'd like to learn more about the differences between CPU temperature and Core temperature, as well as so much more, then please read this Tom’s Sticky: Intel Temperature Guide - http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-1800828/intel-temperature-guide.html

Thanks,

CT :sol:

SneakyRed · Jul 4, 2015

CompuTronix :

SneakyRed,

Except for the stock cooler, nice rig!

Here's the typical operating range for Core temperature:

80C Hot
70C Warm (Heavy Load)
60C Norm
50C Norm (Medium Load)
40C Norm
30C Cool (Idle)

Core temperature is the standard for thermal measurement because it's consistently more accurate than CPU temperature.

Although CPU Thermometer measures Core temperatures, it's not a recommended utility because it's not always accurate.

Core Temp is an excellent utility, or even better, use Real Temp to measure your Core temperatures, as it was developed specifically for Intel processors: Real Temp - http://www.techpowerup.com/downloads/2089/real-temp-3-70/

Rergardless, it's very likely that your stock cooler has popped a push-pin loose from the motherboard, which is a common problem. This causes poor contact pressure between the cooler and the CPU, resulting in high temperatures in BIOS, as well as in Windows at idle, and especially at 100% workload.

You can troubleshoot this problem by pushing firmly on each corner of the cooler for about 30 seconds while watching your load temperatures. When you see a significant drop, you've found the loose push-pin.

The push-pins can be deceivingly tricky to get them fully inserted through the motherboard and properly latched.

(1) To re-seat a single loose push-pin, release the latch mechanism to the retracted clockwise position, then reset it to the counterclockwise position, but do NOT push on it yet.

(2) To get the pin fully inserted through the motherboard, push only on the leg, NOT on the top of the latch.

(3) While holding the leg firmly against the motherboard with one hand, you can now push on the top of the latch with your other hand until the latch clicks.

(4) If you're re-seating the entire cooler, then be sure to latch the pins across from one another, rather than next to one another. Use an "X" pattern, so as to apply even pressure during installation.

Intel Stock Cooler Installation Guide - http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/338655-28-intel-stock-cooler-installation-guide

If you'd like to learn more about the differences between CPU temperature and Core temperature, as well as so much more, then please read this Tom’s Sticky: Intel Temperature Guide - http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-1800828/intel-temperature-guide.html

Thanks,

CT :sol:

So I tried pushing the pushpins in like you said and I didn't see any change in performance. But, I have a theory. It's possible that it has been running this way from when i built this PC. So in order to confirm or deny this theory I have two questions:
Would the heat of the CPU change performance, and if so, what range of fps should I be getting in games? Lets say for example cs:go.

CompuTronix · Jul 4, 2015

SneakyRed :

(1) Yes.

(2) FPS has little relevance.

The reason why there are so many conflicting reports of different temperatures, is that everyone tests their rigs with different stress tests, clock speeds, Vcore, coolers, ambient temperatures and measuring utilities that read two different types of processor temperatures.

Applications, rendering, encoding and gaming are partial workloads with fluctuating temperatures, and aren't suitable for thermal testing or comparing temperatures, but they're great fuel for endless speculation and debate.

You need to try again. This issue definitely sounds like a push-pin problem.

Are you sure that you did this properly and allowed enough time for observation?

"You can troubleshoot this problem by pushing firmly on each corner of the cooler for about 30 seconds while watching your load temperatures. When you see a significant drop, you've found the loose push-pin."

The key word is "load". You need to put a stead-state load on your processor such as Prime95 version 26.6 - http://windows-downloads-center.blogspot.com/2011/04/prime95-266.html

Run only Small FFT’s.

Use Real Temp to measure your Core temperatures, as it was developed specifically for Intel processors: Real Temp - http://www.techpowerup.com/downloads/2089/real-temp-3-70/

CT :sol:

i7Baby · Jul 4, 2015

So I tried pushing the pushpins in like you said and I didn't see any change in performance. But, I have a theory. It's possible that it has been running this way from when i built this PC. So in order to confirm or deny this theory I have two questions:
Would the heat of the CPU change performance, and if so, what range of fps should I be getting in games? Lets say for example cs:go.

even without the latch, the cpu cooler holds everything down.

SneakyRed · Jul 4, 2015

CompuTronix :

SneakyRed :

(1) Yes.

(2) FPS has little relevance.

The reason why there are so many conflicting reports of different temperatures, is that everyone tests their rigs with different stress tests, clock speeds, Vcore, coolers, ambient temperatures and measuring utilities that read two different types of processor temperatures.

Applications, rendering, encoding and gaming are partial workloads with fluctuating temperatures, and aren't suitable for thermal testing or comparing temperatures, but they're great fuel for endless speculation and debate.

You need to try again. This issue definitely sounds like a push-pin problem.

Are you sure that you did this properly and allowed enough time for observation?

"You can troubleshoot this problem by pushing firmly on each corner of the cooler for about 30 seconds while watching your load temperatures. When you see a significant drop, you've found the loose push-pin."

The key word is "load". You need to put a stead-state load on your processor such as Prime95 version 26.6 - http://windows-downloads-center.blogspot.com/2011/04/prime95-266.html

Run only Small FFT’s.

Use Real Temp to measure your Core temperatures, as it was developed specifically for Intel processors: Real Temp - http://www.techpowerup.com/downloads/2089/real-temp-3-70/

CT :sol:

Tried two more times running the prime 95 small FFTs torture test measuring temps with Real Temp pressing down each push pin for 30 seconds each. No noticeable drop.

CompuTronix · Jul 4, 2015

Let's go back to basics. If you built the computer, did you remember to remove the thin clear plastic cover from the bottom of the cooler?

lancerzero9 · Jul 4, 2015

Just spend the 30$ to buy an aftermarket cooler
Watch a youtube video on how to install that exact cooler
Run RealTemp and tell us what you see

I have the same cpu/gpu and my system when air cooled idled in the 30s and 70s when gaming. I was just using the good ol' 212 Evo as a cooler.

SneakyRed · Jul 4, 2015

CompuTronix :

Yes.

SneakyRed · Jul 4, 2015

lancerzero9 :

I want to try to overclock soon so that might be a good idea. Going to troubleshoot some more first.

CompuTronix · Jul 4, 2015

SneakyRed :

If the fan is running on your stock cooler and you don't have a wire pinched between the top of the processor and the bottom of the cooler, then regardless of your efforts, the problem still points to insufficient contact between the processor and cooler.

The only way to be absolutely certain that all the pins are fully inserted and securely latched is to look at the back of your motherboard. Like I said in my first post, the push-pins can be deceivingly tricky.

Still, this is an extremely common problem. Almost everyone has trouble getting the push-pins seated and latched. The design is poor at best. The problem is there; you just haven't seen it yet.

Did you follow the Intel Stock Cooler Installation Guide I posted above for you? - http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/338655-28-intel-stock-cooler-installation-guide

SneakyRed · Jul 5, 2015

CompuTronix :

SneakyRed :

If the fan is running on your stock cooler and you don't have a wire pinched between the top of the processor and the bottom of the cooler, then regardless of your efforts, the problem still points to insufficient contact between the processor and cooler.

The only way to be absolutely certain that all the pins are fully inserted and securely latched is to look at the back of your motherboard. Like I said in my first post, the push-pins can be deceivingly tricky.

Still, this is an extremely common problem. Almost everyone has trouble getting the push-pins seated and latched. The design is poor at best. The problem is there; you just haven't seen it yet.

Did you follow the Intel Stock Cooler Installation Guide I posted above for you? - http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/338655-28-intel-stock-cooler-installation-guide

I have been wanting to upgrade my cooler anyway and think I will do that. You have been more than helpful in answering my original question. Thanks for everything!

CompuTronix · Jul 5, 2015

Well that's an excellent decision. It's always a good idea to replace the stock cooler just to get away from the push-pins for a more substantial retention system ... not to mention upgrading the thermal capacity.

Enjoy your rig!

CT :sol:

SneakyRed · Jul 7, 2015

CompuTronix :

I just installed the new CPU cooler, a Hyper 212 Evo, and its running under load at 60 degrees Celsius. Also, the problem with the stock cooler WAS with the push pins. One of them wasn't through at all. It didn't go through when I pushed on it either.

Thanks so much!
-Sneakyred

CompuTronix · Jul 7, 2015

SneakyRed :

Load at 60C?

Please define "load".

SneakyRed · Jul 7, 2015

CompuTronix :

Sorry, temperature under load from Prime95 at 60C.

CompuTronix · Jul 7, 2015

Prime95 version 26.6 Small FFT's?

Also, what is your ambient temperature?

SneakyRed · Jul 8, 2015

CompuTronix :

Yes and approx 75° f.

CompuTronix · Jul 8, 2015

Thank you for that information. Just so it's completely clear to everyone, your results would be properly expressed as:

Core temperatures are 60C during Prime95 v26.6 Small FFT's at 24C ambient.

You're in good shape and have plenty of thermal headroom for overclocking.

Enjoy your rig!

CT :sol:

Noamias · Jan 3, 2017

CompuTronix :

SneakyRed,

Except for the stock cooler, nice rig!

Here's the typical operating range for Core temperature:

80C Hot
70C Warm (Heavy Load)
60C Norm
50C Norm (Medium Load)
40C Norm
30C Cool (Idle)

Core temperature is the standard for thermal measurement because it's consistently more accurate than CPU temperature.

Although CPU Thermometer measures Core temperatures, it's not a recommended utility because it's not always accurate.

Core Temp is an excellent utility, or even better, use Real Temp to measure your Core temperatures, as it was developed specifically for Intel processors: Real Temp - http://www.techpowerup.com/downloads/2089/real-temp-3-70/

Rergardless, it's very likely that your stock cooler has popped a push-pin loose from the motherboard, which is a common problem. This causes poor contact pressure between the cooler and the CPU, resulting in high temperatures in BIOS, as well as in Windows at idle, and especially at 100% workload.

You can troubleshoot this problem by pushing firmly on each corner of the cooler for about 30 seconds while watching your load temperatures. When you see a significant drop, you've found the loose push-pin.

The push-pins can be deceivingly tricky to get them fully inserted through the motherboard and properly latched.

(1) To re-seat a single loose push-pin, release the latch mechanism to the retracted clockwise position, then reset it to the counterclockwise position, but do NOT push on it yet.

(2) To get the pin fully inserted through the motherboard, push only on the leg, NOT on the top of the latch.

(3) While holding the leg firmly against the motherboard with one hand, you can now push on the top of the latch with your other hand until the latch clicks.

(4) If you're re-seating the entire cooler, then be sure to latch the pins across from one another, rather than next to one another. Use an "X" pattern, so as to apply even pressure during installation.

Intel Stock Cooler Installation Guide - http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/338655-28-intel-stock-cooler-installation-guide

If you'd like to learn more about the differences between CPU temperature and Core temperature, as well as so much more, then please read this Tom’s Sticky: Intel Temperature Guide - http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-1800828/intel-temperature-guide.html

Thanks,

CT :sol:

Does that mean that my cpu should be 30 degrees celcius warm or 40 degrees? Because as it said "normal" on 40-50 degrees but "cold" on 30 degrees? Because my CPU is 30 degrees is that too cold or is that good? I know too much really isn't good but is too low also bad?

CompuTronix · Jan 3, 2017

Noamias,

As you're a relatively new Member here at Tom's, you may not understand that it's inappropriate to post on a Thread that's more than 6 months old, which is referred to as "necroposting". We discourage necroposting because new answers may not apply to older questions as technology advances so rapidly in computers.

However, in this instance your question is valid, so my answer is no; unless you're trying to operate a desktop PC in an extremely cold environment such as less than 10C, there is no "too cold". If you want to learn more, then please click on the link above and read the Intel Temperature Guide.

This Thread is nearly 18 months old. Regardless of how you found this Thread, please do not post on any Threads more than 6 months old. If you have a specific question, then please start your own Thread.

This Thread is now closed.

CompuTronix
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