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Display driver amdkmdap stopped responding and has successfully recovered

So I just finished building a new PC. I had a small problem with a loud fan and made a thread about it, but it's been solved. But now I have a new issue. My system keeps crashing and when I check the event log, I see this message:

display driver amdkmdap stopped responding and has successfully recovered

There are a lot of these. The PC will freeze, the display will go out, then it will come back, then go out, then come back. I tried the dxdiag program in Windows 8.1, it found no issues. I installed everything off of my mobo disc, and I used the AMD auto detect program and it says I have the most up to date drivers.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157528 - this is my motherboard

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814202137 - this is my GPU.

Nothing in the system seems off. Everything recognizes the GPU, the fans work, nothing is overheating. The only thing in my device manager is my SM Bus Controller has an error with it. What does this do and could it be causing the problem?

I bought StarCraft 2 for the new PC and when I try to install it, the screen flashes 3 times and I get 3 error messages saying device driver AMD has stopped working but recovered. It's when I am doing general things on the PC like using the web browser and it crashes that it really messes the PC up.

Idk if I should send the card back or try Windows 7.
83 answers Last reply Best Answer
More about display driver amdkmdap stopped responding successfully recovered
  1. I would suggest doing a Safe Boot (hold down F8 while booting), select Safe Boot with networking. Once there, uninstall all AMD video card related drivers and Cataclysm. When done, download the free copy of CCleaner and run it. It will clean up various parts of your computer, including anything that might have been left over in the registry when uninstalling the AMD drivers. When CCleaner is done, Restart the system going back into Safe Mode just like the first time.

    This time, download the latest available video drivers from AMD, and install them. Same with Cataclysm. When done, reboot and go into Windows normally. Hopefully, things will go a little smoother for you this time.
  2. This unfortunately did not work. I went into safe mode, I uninstalled all things AMD and my driver. I downloaded and ran CCleaner, I dow loaded the new Catalyst which installed the same driver I already had.

    I began the SCII installation and it actually ran for about 10 minutes, but the machine just flashed the screen a couple times and crashed. And even just now as I try to go to the event viewer it is slowly flashing from desktop to blank screen and will probably require a restart.

    So I have restarted and checked event log. Lots of display driver amdkmdap stopped and recovered warnings, also some errors about Service KMSELDI terminating unexpectedly. It seems each batch of driver display warnings is preceded by the KMSELDI service shutting down.

    Idk what to do. I might give Windows 7 a try and if it doesn't work, send the card back.
  3. Did you install the Intel motherboard/chipset drivers?

    http://www.intel.com/support/chipsets/inf/sb/CS-013541.htm
  4. I thought I had, but maybe not. I will try when I get home. I have also been reading it could be a factory OC GPU. The Newegg description does say factory clock 950Mhz or something, and 1000Mhz boost clock, maybe I should try lowering it to 950?

    I also read it could be bad memory. I will run memtest86+ when I get home. Lastly, this is the PSU I bought for the new build. 700W should be enough, yes?

    http://m.newegg.com/Product?itemNumber=N82E16817153167
  5. Right now, I am more inclined to suspect the software than the hardware. Because the video driver is failing, and that its normally a software problem, but not always.

    99.9% of the time, factory overclocks are fine.

    We keep a list of power supplies here on Toms. The Thermaltake TR2 has not yet been rated. That normally means the company has not bothered to send units out for reviews, which I tend to take as a sign they do not want reviews on them. So while I cannot say that it is a bad or good unit, I would be suspicious of it right now. Other power supplies from Thermaltake range from Tier 2 to Tier 4 (good to junk), so I cannot base it on that.

    If the power supply is a quality power supply, then that would be enough capacity. If on the other hand, its a junk unit, it might not be. But I do not suspect the power supply right now.

    Get the Intel drivers installed and see if that makes a difference. And yes, testing the memory cannot hurt.
  6. I installed the latest Intel drivers but it made no difference. It has crashed 3 times in the last 20 minutes since installing them. I do see artifacts on the screen both when Windows loads and on the Windows 8 start screen. Idk if this means the card might be bad or if faulty software issues can make that happen.

    I downloaded memtest86+ but have no idea how to use it :\ I'm also at a loss on how to underclock my GPU. I'll look into it.
  7. On memtest, there are 2 sites... the one I use is http://www.memtest.org/

    Before you run memtest in the next step, I would like you to shutdown the system, and remove your video card. That will eliminate it from being a source of any errors during the memtest run. You can plug your monitor into the back of the motherboard and use the IGPU in the CPU. Memtest doesn't do graphics, so it won't matter.

    Download the ISO image. Burn that to a CD/DVD. Then boot from that disc. Let it run overnight. If it finds any errors, it will report them to the screen. This is assuming that it makes it overnight. If there are no errors when you get up in the morning, then its not likely to be the memory.

    I am beginning to suspect the video card, but lets eliminate the video card best we can first.
  8. So I ran it this morning, both sticks passed with no errors. Also, I left the card in as I was pressed for time before I ran some errors and the card frankly is a pain in the butt to remove. So I guess the memory is fine. I am about to go to work, when I get home I will use my 7 disc and try a clean install of that and see if the card works better on that OS. If not I guess I will send it back to Newegg.
  9. Ok, I did a clean install of Windows 7 this afternoon. The card displayed everything fine throughout the entire installation, the entire time I used Windows 7 installing things...

    ..until I installed the newest driver for the R9 280X. Same artifacts on the screen, same "AMD driver stopped working but has recovered" message from Windows 7. I am about to try to use an earlier driver for the card and see what happens, though this didn't work on Windows 8.
  10. If the older driver doesn't fix things, RMA the card. You have done everything I could have suggested with that card.
  11. MarkW said:
    If the older driver doesn't fix things, RMA the card. You have done everything I could have suggested with that card.


    I have begun the RMA process. Last night I uninstalled the card, removed all drivers, and hooked the HDMI cable up to the on board graphics. I installed Starcraft 2 and was able to play fine. The game suggested medium on most settings, I chose low just to be safe. I didn't see any issues.

    However today I am seeing the same reddish artifacts on the screen as I was when I was using the graphics card. I am including 3 pictures, hopefully you can see the weird spots clearly, sorry about the dirty monitor. I'm just gonna link the URL, the pictures are pretty massive.

    http://i.imgur.com/QvGvBAG.jpg - This is from a forum. The spots are all around "New Topic" and along the right side.

    http://i.imgur.com/ycJ0Eyk.jpg - Same, maybe a better view of the right side.

    http://i.imgur.com/BVNnL9U.jpg - Just the desktop.

    They are really easy to see when the screen is on something dark. Also images. I have no idea what this could be.

    Also, my GPU box says a 750W PSU is recommended. Mine is 700W. The build should only be pushing slightly above 400W according to PCPartPicker.

    I am worried now that maybe I am going to mail off the GPU tomorrow and it's not really the issue.
  12. Yeah, I checked 2 places that I on the power supply minimum, and both also say 750 minimum.

    That power supply is an unranked power supply on the list they keep on power supplies here. Which normally means that there have been no reviews done by trusted reviewers. Which normally means the company selling the units does not want them to be reviewed. Which normally means they are less than high quality units. Which is not a good thing.

    So I looked at the egg rating on Newegg. 3 eggs out of 5. That concerns me. Most of the time, a good unit with over 100 reviews will show 4 eggs or better. I will stop there, because this involves a whole lot of speculation.

    If you want to get a 750w unit, I would like to see you get a high quality unit. II recommend Seasonic power supplies. I believe that they are the best made power supplies on the planet. Its is the only brand of power supply that I will buy anymore. So I went to Amazon, and asked it to show me Seasonic 750w power supplies. Here is a link to what came up:

    http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_c_0_13?url=search-alias%3Dcomputers&field-keywords=seasonic+750w&sprefix=seasonic+750w%2Ccomputers%2C283&rh=n%3A541966%2Ck%3Aseasonic+750w
  13. Replace your power supply, not the GPU. The Thermaltake TR2 is the exact power supply that brought me to Tom's Hardware in the beginning. My very first post here is related to that power supply. I've literally seen at least 100 threads here on Tom's alone that were related to that power supply model and erratic behavior, failures and "ghost issues" are common indicators of the TR2 troubles.


    There is always a chance of something else having been damaged by a cheap power supply, but considering your issues linger and are similar, even with the GPU card removed, is a good indicator that the common denominator is the power supply which can in fact not even come close to supplying it's rated power and has many other issues besides. It used to be a Tier 5 "replace immediately" unit, but they have released a new version of the TR2 so it dropped down into the unreviewed list.


    Most models still being sold by TigerDirect and some other vendors are highly likely to still be the older model though. There is also no proof at all yet that the revised model is any better.

    http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2194316/likelihood-psu-failure.html
  14. Thanks for the responses, guys. I have gotten a refund for the PSU and will mail it off tonight and order a new one tonight. I will update when it gets here if it fixes the issues.

    http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=17-139-051

    What do you guys think of this one?
  15. Honestly, it's much better than the TR2, but still a lower quality unit. I'd like to call it a piece of trash, due to the high failure rate, but it's not quite that bad. You can do MUCH better for the price, like this Super Flower built unit that ranks up there with some of the best units available:

    PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

    Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($73.99 @ SuperBiiz)
    Total: $73.99
    Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
    Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-07-09 17:17 EDT-0400


    But this unit is more than enough for your configuration and is a Seasonic built unit. Very good unit too:

    PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

    Power Supply: Antec Neo Eco 620W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($64.99 @ SuperBiiz)
    Total: $64.99
    Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
    Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-07-09 17:18 EDT-0400
  16. Ok I ordered the EVGA PSU recommended. I guess it will be here Monday or Tuesday, will update when I try it out.
  17. We'll pray to the PSU gods for you. Don't get too depressed if there is still an issue. It's neigh unto impossible to figure these kinds of issues out with a PSU shaped object installed in place of an actual PSU anyway, so at least it will narrow it down greatly if it doesn't end up being the issue, which I think it is. Plus, at least you'll know you have a very good, solid, reliable unit installed that's going to last you another five to ten years. Don't forget to register with EVGA when you get it too.
  18. Update... the new PSU did nothing. I have it installed and the 280X back in the machine and I am getting the same issues as before. The same red artifacts, the same crashes. Although, I could have swore the latest driver from before was December of 2014 but now it's telling me I have the latest driver from November. Not that it matters, I guess. Something is messed up anyway.

    I will try installing the driver from the disc again and fiddling around with BIOS, but I am lost as to what the issue could be. The same artifacts appear even when the video card was not in the system. Idk.
  19. Are the AMD drivers still installed? If they are, remove every last one of them, and then run CCleaner on the registry. They are not needed if the AMD video card is not installed, so lets eliminate those from the equation too.

    http://www.piriform.com/ccleaner/download
  20. I don't ever recommend running CCleaner or any other registry modification software. It's too easy to screw things up, plus, if you've just recently done a clean install it's doubtful that much is there anyhow. I'd run the DDU as outlined at the following link, then install the latest drivers for your OS and card as indicated on the AMD website. Link to all relevant software is at the following link in addition to instructions on what to do:

    http://www.tomshardware.com/faq/id-2492424/laymans-simple-guide-solving-graphics-card-issues.html
  21. I use CCleaner on my registry now after almost any uninstall of software. They just leave way too much junk in the registry when you uninstall things.

    But I also create a restore point before doing those things just to be safe. So far, I have never had to use one of those. I'll keep knocking on wood too. :)
  22. I like the DDU much better for graphics card related cleaning as it only focuses on known files and entries that are related to the selected card family and doesn't bother other stuff in the registry that may be unrelated unbeknownst to the novice or even intermediate user. Safer for them and they don't tend to be as likely to mess anything up.
  23. I am trying the DDU right now.

    When I uninstalled the current driver it reverted back to a 2013 driver for the card and it gave me numerous "driver has stopped working" errors, but the machine never crashed. It crashes constantly with the latest drivers installed.

    With a generic driver installed the machine works fine with no errors or crashes. It only seems to be when the drivers are installed that artifacts and crashes occur. Also I had PCIE set as the default graphics in BIOS even when the card was out of the syystem, Idk if maybe that's why I saw artifacts even using on board graphics.

    Catalyst installing now. Another weird thing, the display would not go full screen with AMD drivers installed. If I have to RMA thus card I might go with Nvidia even if I have to downgrade a bit.

    Catalyst almost done now. Ok so now it's giving me a driver from June 22 of 2015? Bizarre.

    Ok so the artifacts disappeared, I loaded up Starcraft II and saw no abnormalities, the display was in full screen, and now the crashes have started up again. Just crashed for the 2nd time. I am rebooting into safe mode so I can maybe check the event viewer log without the PC crashing.

    Ok so there are a lot of errors about the Intel HD Graphics Service or something stopping pretty much with every crash. I have disabled the service, let's see what happens.

    Aaaaaaand all the artifacts are back. And right as I am about to take a picture at the SCII launcher, the machine crashes. :(

    It really seems like a software issue as opposed to hardware. I have no idea why I'm only just now getting a June 2015 driver from AMD when it's always been Nov 2014 before now. I guess I will try a clean OS install tomorrow.
  24. I'm not sure why you're bouncing from OS to OS. What version of windows is currently installed? Is it 32 or 64 bit? Did you disable the integrated graphics in the bios, if there is an option to do so there, and delete the display adapter for the integrated graphics in device manager? If not, I would do so.
  25. I would really like to know what the crash logs are saying.
  26. That would be helpful as well.
  27. I started on 8 and switched to 7, both because the machine kept crashing and I hated 8. The 7 is 64 bit. By crash logs do you mean the Event Viewer or something else?
  28. Event Viewer.. normally, when the system crashes or power goes off, in the fraction of a second before everything dies, it can write a log of what happened.
  29. Booted it up this morning and it crashed about 15 seconds after reaching desktop. Went to BIOS, changed primary graphics from PCIE to onboard, it's running fine so far. Don't even see any red artifacts. Every time it crashes, this window appears on the desktop after reboot, this is what the dialog box says inside:

    Problem signature:
    Problem Event Name: BlueScreen
    OS Version: 6.1.7601.2.1.0.768.3
    Locale ID: 1033

    Additional information about the problem:
    BCCode: 116
    BCP1: FFFFFA80096704E0
    BCP2: FFFFF88003B00CEC
    BCP3: 0000000000000000
    BCP4: 0000000000000002
    OS Version: 6_1_7601
    Service Pack: 1_0
    Product: 768_1

    Idk if that is helpful or not. This is what is in the event viewer:

    Error log - The computer has rebooted from a bugcheck. The bugcheck was: 0x00000116 (0xfffffa80096704e0, 0xfffff88003b00cec, 0x0000000000000000, 0x0000000000000002). A dump was saved in: C:\Windows\MEMORY.DMP. Report Id: 071515-31293-01.

    Critical - Log Name: System
    Source: Microsoft-Windows-Kernel-Power
    Date: 7/15/2015 9:48:48 AM
    Event ID: 41
    Task Category: (63)
    Level: Critical
    Keywords: (2)
    User: SYSTEM
    Computer: Our-PC
    Description:
    The system has rebooted without cleanly shutting down first. This error could be caused if the system stopped responding, crashed, or lost power unexpectedly.
    Event Xml:
    <Event xmlns="http://schemas.microsoft.com/win/2004/08/events/event">
    <System>
    <Provider Name="Microsoft-Windows-Kernel-Power" Guid="{331C3B3A-2005-44C2-AC5E-77220C37D6B4}" />
    <EventID>41</EventID>
    <Version>2</Version>
    <Level>1</Level>
    <Task>63</Task>
    <Opcode>0</Opcode>
    <Keywords>0x8000000000000002</Keywords>
    <TimeCreated SystemTime="2015-07-15T14:48:48.960009500Z" />
    <EventRecordID>5107</EventRecordID>
    <Correlation />
    <Execution ProcessID="4" ThreadID="8" />
    <Channel>System</Channel>
    <Computer>Our-PC</Computer>
    <Security UserID="S-1-5-18" />
    </System>
    <EventData>
    <Data Name="BugcheckCode">278</Data>
    <Data Name="BugcheckParameter1">0xfffffa80096704e0</Data>
    <Data Name="BugcheckParameter2">0xfffff88003b00cec</Data>
    <Data Name="BugcheckParameter3">0x0</Data>
    <Data Name="BugcheckParameter4">0x2</Data>
    <Data Name="SleepInProgress">false</Data>
    <Data Name="PowerButtonTimestamp">0</Data>
    </EventData>
    </Event>

    There are multiples of these two errors. It seems the Intel HD Graphics Service error has stopped since disabling the service. darkbreeze, there is a BIOS option for primary graphics adapter, and I had it set to PCIE. I don't see the onboard graphics in the device manager while the card is installed, only the card. Ok, now that I have changed the BIOS settings and am using the onboard, I see both now in device manager. So I will delete all drivers again for the 280X, run the DDU again, run CCleaner again, and then uninstall the onboard video, then try to reinstall the June 2015 drivers for the 280X and see whats what.
  30. Critical - Log Name: System
    Source: Microsoft-Windows-Kernel-Power
    Date: 7/15/2015 9:48:48 AM


    Your power supply is dying. It is dropping power just long enough to force the system to reboot.

    I've read something about those TR2 units... and if I remember right, Darkbreeze loved them about as much as I love the Corsair CX junk. Which is not at all.

    I am going to link the PSU list that is kept here on Toms. We only recommend buying Tier 1 or Tier 2 power supplies. Anything from the lower tiers is not worthy of being in a gaming system in my opinion.

    http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2547993/psu-tier-list/page-15.html#16254791
  31. Well I'd typed out a long reply but it seems the forum is having issues and it's taking forever to load and the reply was lost.

    Anyway, I uninstalled the 280X, deleted the drivers, uninstalled the onboard graphics. Ran DDU and CCleaner. The machine worked fine with onboard graphics and even with the HDMI plugged into the card, until I reinstalled the newest drivers. Artifacts and crash. I reinstalled the Intel onboard driver and am using it again with no issues. I don't get why the card would work fine until you put new drivers on the system. Anyway, here are some error logs from Event Viewer.

    This is what every critical log says:

    Log Name: System
    Source: Microsoft-Windows-Kernel-Power
    Date: 7/15/2015 10:33:05 AM
    Event ID: 41
    Task Category: (63)
    Level: Critical
    Keywords: (2)
    User: SYSTEM
    Computer: Our-PC
    Description:
    The system has rebooted without cleanly shutting down first. This error could be caused if the system stopped responding, crashed, or lost power unexpectedly.
    Event Xml:
    <Event xmlns="http://schemas.microsoft.com/win/2004/08/events/event">
    <System>
    <Provider Name="Microsoft-Windows-Kernel-Power" Guid="{331C3B3A-2005-44C2-AC5E-77220C37D6B4}" />
    <EventID>41</EventID>
    <Version>2</Version>
    <Level>1</Level>
    <Task>63</Task>
    <Opcode>0</Opcode>
    <Keywords>0x8000000000000002</Keywords>
    <TimeCreated SystemTime="2015-07-15T15:33:05.148808100Z" />
    <EventRecordID>5784</EventRecordID>
    <Correlation />
    <Execution ProcessID="4" ThreadID="8" />
    <Channel>System</Channel>
    <Computer>Our-PC</Computer>
    <Security UserID="S-1-5-18" />
    </System>
    <EventData>
    <Data Name="BugcheckCode">278</Data>
    <Data Name="BugcheckParameter1">0xfffffa80093e34e0</Data>
    <Data Name="BugcheckParameter2">0xfffff880040c2cec</Data>
    <Data Name="BugcheckParameter3">0x0</Data>
    <Data Name="BugcheckParameter4">0x2</Data>
    <Data Name="SleepInProgress">false</Data>
    <Data Name="PowerButtonTimestamp">0</Data>
    </EventData>
    </Event>


    There's really nothing else that looks relevant. Another bug check log for each crash like the one in my last post. Warnings about NETDETECT or something not starting since this is not a mobile platform. I am lost.
  32. Well, this is the second one showing power failure.

    Critical - Log Name: System
    Source: Microsoft-Windows-Kernel-Power
    Date: 7/15/2015 9:48:48 AM


    Log Name: System
    Source: Microsoft-Windows-Kernel-Power
    Date: 7/15/2015 10:33:05 AM

    45 minutes apart. Unless you have a cat pulling the plug out of the wall and then plugging it back in real quick, I think we know the source of the reboots right now.
  33. MarkW said:
    Critical - Log Name: System
    Source: Microsoft-Windows-Kernel-Power
    Date: 7/15/2015 9:48:48 AM


    Your power supply is dying. It is dropping power just long enough to force the system to reboot.

    I've read something about those TR2 units... and if I remember right, Darkbreeze loved them about as much as I love the Corsair CX junk. Which is not at all.

    I am going to link the PSU list that is kept here on Toms. We only recommend buying Tier 1 or Tier 2 power supplies. Anything from the lower tiers is not worthy of being in a gaming system in my opinion.

    http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2547993/psu-tier-list/page-15.html#16254791


    I bought a new PSU though. One of the units darkbreeze recommended. A tier 2 unit on that list. I don't know.

    I did see in the link darkbreeze provided earlier that you shouldn't plug the computer into a power strip, which is what I am doing. I will try directly plugging and starting the driver removal/reinstall process again.
  34. Something is not right. The errors are clearly power failures. The Windows kernel detects the power dropping, and dumps that log out real quick. Thats the only time I have ever seen that error.
  35. Plugging directly into the wall did nothing. As soon as I reinstalled catalyst and the new drivers and rebooted the PC, it crashed when it loaded the desktop. Back on the on board graphics now. Same critical error log.
  36. Describe what you are seeing when it crashes. Does it just reboot, does it freeze up, what happens?

    If it freezes, press CAPS LOCK and see if the keyboard caps lock light changes.
  37. I'd try a different outlet, just for sh#$s and giggles. Maybe that outlet has an issue. By that I don't mean the other socket on the same outlet either as they could share a common issue. Try a totally different outlet, with no extension cords or power strips being used. Make sure you have BOTH the 24pin and 4 or 8 pin CPU power connectors attached to the board. Make certain you have the card supplemental power connectors attached to the card directly, not using 4 pin Molex adapters.


    You may also need to unscrew the motherboard and make certain that none of the case standoffs that the motherboard attaches to are in a location where your motherboard does not have a screw hole and that no loose standoffs may have been forgotten and been pinched between the motherboard and case which in both cases could cause a short circuit situation, which might create any number of problems including a power issue.

    I'd double check every single item here:

    http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-perform-steps-posting-post-boot-video-problems


    And if that fails to net any results, you may need to do this:

    http://www.tomshardware.com/faq/id-1753671/bench-troubleshooting.html


    It could also be that you have a faulty motherboard or graphics card.
  38. MarkW said:
    Describe what you are seeing when it crashes. Does it just reboot, does it freeze up, what happens?

    If it freezes, press CAPS LOCK and see if the keyboard caps lock light changes.


    It freezes for a few seconds, the screen goes black, and it reboots. The mouse nor keyboard work.
  39. Everything I see here indicates power failure to me. I google "microsoft-windows-kernel-power event id 41 task category (63)" which is what I see in the last event you posted, and they go all over the map...

    The fact that this problem has continued to exist through 2 versions of Windows, and 2 different power supplies is beginning to point me to the motherboard/CPU. On a Z97 motherboard, the power regulators are mostly on the CPU now. Which CPU do you have?

    On on a side note... Awhile back, you asked us about a Corsair CX power supply... We both told you to avoid it. I continue to run into those units almost daily. So a few days ago, I asked for what I was told would be impossible. I asked that the Corsair CX series of power supplies be moved from Tier 3 to Tier 4. Lots of other people supported me. Including Darkbreeze who has also been helping with your problem. And today, the impossible happened. Corsair CX series power supplies have been moved to Tier 4. They now officially rank as junk on TomsHardware.com
  40. Which is where they belong. Somebody should file a class action lawsuit against Corsair for selling PSU shaped objects filled with crap.

    I'm really leaning towards the motherboard or CPU as well, however, it's VERY uncommon for a CPU to be or go, bad, unless something has been intentionally or accidentally done to damage it. I'd pull the CPU out and make absolutely certain there are no bent pins on the CPU or motherboard. You may need to use a magnifying glass depending on how good your eyes are. Mine have started getting bad in the last year or so, so that's what I do now.
  41. I have no bent pins.

    I completely dismantled the entire PC and started from scratch. Computer runs absolutely fine still via on board video but the second I installed new drivers and switched to 280X, got little red specks in my screen and crash.

    I downloaded Speedfan because I was thinking maybe cooling. But it says 32C for the GPU. Interestingly, if I increased the GPU fan, the machine seemed to stay on longer when I'd boot Starcraft. I cranked it up to 85% and was actuslly able to make it to the title screen with Kerrigan before it crashed. Before, I'd never even made it past the splash screen. But, Idk if that means anything, because after that crash I set it to 100% and the machine crashed after I googled True Detective and hit images just to monitor temperature.

    Voltage never varied either. I still have an RMA open on the 280X, I am mailing it back tomorrow and maybe hopefully it's just the card because otherwise I am at a loss. Now I remember why I stick with consoles.
  42. 3vsb: 3.42
    Vbat: 0.00
    VCore: 0.88
    +12V: 12.20
    AVcc: 3.39
    3Vcc: 3.39
    VIN1: 0.92
    VIN2: 1.74
    VIN3: 0.80
    GPU Vddc: 0.85

    This is what Speedfan shows. Are these normal power levels? The chart feature in Speedfan showed no variation in anything but GPU temp when I loaded a game.
  43. Oh man... I sure hope the video card is the problem. This one has been kind of crazy.
  44. Consoles suck, and they have the same hardware, to a lesser degree, but are less configurable and perform worse, than a PC. Everything in a console can have the exact same issues as a PC, and do. I used to get about ten to twenty consoles a week when I was actively advertising my business, and they have hardware failures just the same as a PC. Probably not as often, because they use very specific hardware and limit what it can do, but they fail as well.

    The Z97 anniversary is a low end board, so it wouldn't surprise me if that ended up being the issue, but I'd go ahead with the GPU card RMA anyhow. The first R9 280x I had was a Sapphire, and it was bad out of the box. The replacement worked perfect and still does. Then I upgraded to the 290x, and guess what? The first one was bad within a week, and the replacement has been going strong for about six months now.
  45. I am leaning towards the GPU as well, but then here is my issue. I just updated my Intel onboard graphics driver to the newest one, and guess what I see when I go to watch some of the EVO fights on twitch?

    This, full of flickering little red specks. So maybe not the GPU? At least it doesn't crash and restart though.
  46. IF it's doing the same thing with the integrated graphics, then it's not the GPU card. It's either the motherboard, CPU or power supply. Are you still running this system plugged into an extension cord, power strip, UPS or anything other than directly from the wall socket?
  47. I think I will stick with what I said on the 15th. I still think its the motherboard or CPU. I have no way to know which it is. We have no spare parts to swap out. And that is what would be needed to figure this out.
  48. And in my thoughts, bent pins could STILL be possible. I've had at least, at LEAST, ten to twenty clients who've brought me machines they either built or worked on that insisted there was no way there could be bent pins or disfigured sockets and as soon as I took them apart and looked under a magnifying glass, or sometimes even without one, sure enough, there was. Quite a few of those displayed power related issues and graphical anomalies as well. But it could be simply a failed board or chip too.
  49. Like this one, that the average person would look at and never, ever, notice:


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