Computer turns on for 5 seconds then fails to boot. UNLESS...

Toggle sidebar Toggle sidebar
S

Seif52

Honorable
Dec 31, 2013
7
0
10,510
I've searched these forums and what I could of google as well. I couldn't really figure out what to search to begin with. Anyways..

After putting in the new CPU and Mobo, my computer would start up, fans would start up fine, and then after about 7 seconds, the computer would shut off and attempt to restart. The only thing I could do to keep the computer running would be to turn off the PSU in the back of the computer, wait 10-15 seconds, and then start the computer back up. It's been running for 2-3 hours since I last did that. All my connections appear to be done correctly.

I have no idea what the issue is. It's almost as if the PSU doesn't have enough power stored up to do an initial boot. Even though PC Part Picker claims the computer will only use 372w of power maximum. I plan to disconnect all of my connections and reconnect them while I wait for responses.

Any ideas what the problem is?

Thank you

I just upgraded CPUs and Mobos. Specs below.

System: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/YRhLgs
CPU: Intel i5-4690k
Mobo: ASUS z87 Pro
RAM: 8gb DDR3 1600
GPU: Gigabyte R9 270x
PSU: Corsair 80+ Bronze 500w
 
Solution
MarkW
When I read the headline, I thought, "I'll bet that's another Corsair CX power supply."

And I was right. I spend far more time dealing with people with that series of power supply than all other power supplies. Way more.

Some people here on Toms keep a list of power supplies, ranking most of them as Tier 1 through Tier 5. We recommend only buying a Tier 1 or Tier 2 power supply. That Corsair CX is a Tier 3. I do not know what is wrong with those things, but I wouldn't give one to my worst enemy.

I am going to link the list that I use so that you can look and see what power supplies are listed under Tiers 1 and 2. Please do yourself a favor, and return that CX. Get something better...
Sort by date Sort by votes
spooky2th

spooky2th

Splendid
May 18, 2010
4,855
1
26,960
If you are using the old boot drive with the same OS, that is more than likely your problem. Switching boards hardly ever works right unless you reinstall windows from scratch. Different boards and especially different manufacturers have different MB drivers and configuration files.
 
Upvote 1 Downvote
MarkW

MarkW

Judicious
Dec 7, 2009
6,308
0
32,960
When I read the headline, I thought, "I'll bet that's another Corsair CX power supply."

And I was right. I spend far more time dealing with people with that series of power supply than all other power supplies. Way more.

Some people here on Toms keep a list of power supplies, ranking most of them as Tier 1 through Tier 5. We recommend only buying a Tier 1 or Tier 2 power supply. That Corsair CX is a Tier 3. I do not know what is wrong with those things, but I wouldn't give one to my worst enemy.

I am going to link the list that I use so that you can look and see what power supplies are listed under Tiers 1 and 2. Please do yourself a favor, and return that CX. Get something better,

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2547993/psu-tier-list.html
 
Upvote 1 Downvote
Solution
S

Seif52

Honorable
Dec 31, 2013
7
0
10,510
Spooky, I've been trying to put a clean Win 7 onto the PC but these issues have prevented me from doing so. A clean OS install is definitely step one when the PC comes back to life.

Mark, thank you for the information. I've purchaused a new PSU. It seems the CX line doesn't have a good reputation afterall. I found a Seasonic G Series 550w, tier II, for a low price. I'll be switching those out tomorrow.

In the mean time, does anyone else have any other suggestions? I disconnected all of the parts and reconnected them, found my CPU has proper thermal paste, switched all kinds of compatible ram around on the mobo, unhooked the power beefy GPU and tried integrated graphics, anything I could think of.

What gets me is that once it boots up, everything works fine. No issues at all. The only thing I can think of is the initial boot stresses the PSU too much and it flips a safety to shut off. Any ideas on why that is?

Thanks everyone.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
A

aks_1337

Reputable
Aug 4, 2014
222
1
4,860
1. Reseat all the components inside the case (applying new thermal compound to the CPU)
2. Reset your BIOS (removing and reinserting the CMOS battery)
3. Ensure there are no extra motherboard standoffs installed then the ones which are required (can potentially short the board and cause problems)
4. Replace the current PSU with the new Seasonic you bought and ensure all cables are connected properly and only hook up the cables which are needed
5. Boot the system and test to see it POSTs properly
6. Delete all OS partitions from your HDD and re-install windows clean and it should run fine
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
S

Seif52

Honorable
Dec 31, 2013
7
0
10,510
aks, once the PSU comes in tomorrow, I plan to take everything out, ensure they're completely clean of dust, and re-seat them in the case. I removed and reinserted the CMOS battery and got the computer to boot properly on the second attempt. As long as I do not turn it off, the computer has been running as if there was nothing wrong.

When it comes to standoffs, I have only the ones recommended. None are extra. However, I assume that it wouldn't be an issue to use LESS than required? To limit the issue of shortening the board if that's my issue?

I'll be conducting a clean install of OS as soon as the new PSU comes in. The few times windows is required to restart during install will cause the computer to not boot up.

Patrick
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
A

aks_1337

Reputable
Aug 4, 2014
222
1
4,860

Regarding the standoffs, make sure all the standoffs required are attached to the case.. Don't put less then the recommended amount and obviously don't put more.
Once Windows is re-installed and you've done everything you said you're going to, post back here with any updates. For now, just got to wait I guess.
 
Upvote 1 Downvote
S

Seif52

Honorable
Dec 31, 2013
7
0
10,510
Alright. Update time.

I'm.. not really sure what the overall problem was, but it's solved now. Many headaches later.

It very well may have been the CX PSU I was using. That's what I'm going to chalk this mess up to. My new Seasonic G-series 550w PSU, a clean OS install, breadboarding all of the components, and a fresh application of thermal compound to my CPU solved everything. I'm currently updating my new Windows as I type this. I had a few hiccups along the way, needed all different PCIe cables with the new PSU (The ond ones caused my PC to turn off instantly. Weird?), and nearly put the CPU in the socket upside down :no:

Huge thank you to MarkW, aks_1337, and spooky2th. You all saved me hours of frustration.

Patrick
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
You must log in or register to reply here.

TRENDING THREADS

Latest posts

Moderators online

Share this page

COMPANY
RESOURCES
FOLLOW
Top Bottom