i7-3770k overclocking results temps/volts

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Boris P

Boris P

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I have tweaked everything according to this: http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards

I'm running at 4.5 ghz with 1.23v and temps went to as high as 84c-86c on 2 cores. seem to stay 70c after 10 minutes.

Also, using dynamic voltages is not good for testing right ?

I did not overclock the memory, it's set on 1600mhz without XMP. OC'ing the memory benefits gaming significantly ?


Just noticed it's on Storage forum, I'm sorry, can u move to overclocking plz ?
 
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fudgecakes99

fudgecakes99

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Yeah intel stopped doing soldered ihs's with the 2700k. 3770k isn't a super great overclocker save deliding and mounting a custom water cooling setup. That said, no overclocking the cpu isn't going to give you massive gains in fps, maybe a frame or three, though it is also dependent on how the game is setup, if a game is like far cry 4 which is cpu heavy you'll significant gains as compared to say shadow of mordor which is much more gpu intensive. Regarding ocing ram no you won't see any benefit unless you run virtual machines, work around in video rendering or photo shop. At most maybe faster win rar compression? No fps gains what so ever with overclocked ram.
 
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Boris P

Boris P

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Okay, so I'll keep from OC'ing the ram, no need.

Regarding the CPU, I wonder maybe I did something wrong. what is the lowest voltage I can run 4.5ghz ? I'll try lowering it to 1.2 & test it, is it safe?
 
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4Ryan6

4Ryan6

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I'm running my i7-3770K at 5ghz with 1.375v fixed voltage and load temperature running IBT about 72c running 4 cores with HT disabled, enabling HT takes 1.395v to stabilize and runs IBT at about 78c.

The CPU has not been delidded!

My memory is running at 1600mhz cas8, 1.5v and XMP is disabled.

All Intel power saving features are disabled.

 
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Boris P

Boris P

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Wow 4Ryan6, You get better temperature at 5.0ghz than I do @ 4.4 ghz with 1.2v

I don't know.. I just built my PC a week ago, mounted the H100i and stuff. I have 2 fans in front in pull configuration, 1 fan on top of case in exhaust.
I don't think that the fact I have a micro-atx (corsair 240air) is the issue of this.

Could it be that I spread the thermal paste wrong ?
what are my options.
 
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fudgecakes99

fudgecakes99

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Well, the problem could be a number of things, it's possible that your h100i is deffective, it is a closed loop cooler maybe they didn't top it off? Faulty pump? Very Unlikely. Thermal paste could also be the issue, if you put too much thermal paste, generally speaking you want to put a rice sized blob in the center of the ihs. A cpu die is much much smaller then a gpu die, which encompasses the hole of the ihs.

What i think. Thats about the average for an overclock from a h100i. You got about a .9ghz overclock on a 3770k which's base clock is about 3.5. The issue most likely is that's what your cpu can handle. Not every die is created equal, and it seems that 4Ryan6 either has some open loop water setup or lucked out on the silicone lottery .9ghz overclock isn't bad.
 
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Boris P

Boris P

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I did not mention that the CPU was bought 2nd hand, from a guy that overclocked the cpu to 4.4 ghz on offset voltage for about 2 years or so with custom water-cooling.

Any chance windows 10 OS adds fuel to the fire ?

* I will reseat the pump, wipe & reapply the thermal paste, I'll try to get rubber-washers for the backplate, although I did not check if the thing is loose at all , maybe there's no need for that.

* I consider adding 2x Coolermaster JetFlo120 fans for the radiator for a push/pull setup. what are your thoughts on that ?
 
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fudgecakes99

fudgecakes99

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Push pull isn't worth the performance difference in my opinion. You're only going to get a variation of a few degrees 2-3. The biggest thing that would decrease temps would be decreasing volt/ getting a bigger rad. I suggest checking out swiftech.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/25950/ex-wat-347/Swiftech_H140-X_CPU_Liquid_Cooling_Kit_H140-X.html?tl=g30c321s818

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/25187/ex-wat-327/Swiftech_H220-X_Expandable_All-In-One_Liquid_Cooling_Kit.html?tl=g30c321s818

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/25634/ex-wat-334/Swiftech_H240-X_Expandable_All-In-One_Liquid_Cooling_Kit.html?tl=g30c321s818


their are a few kits you can look at from swifttech. They're more expensive then a closed loop counterpart, but the best part is you can add radiators to them later on if you so choose. A lot of options for expandibility the prices range from 129-149. In descending order single 140mm, dual 120 mm, dual 140mm. If you want to see bigger gains, i'd suggest going with an even bigger rad. maybe you could jerry rig some sort of setup if you removed the tubes on your current closed loop rad and add another rad to it?
 
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Boris P

Boris P

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I opened my case, touched the tubes and the pump/head-block. the very mild-vibration confused me, so I turned my 3 fans to about ~50% power.

I touch the tubes and the pump, I can barely feel anything, not sure it's even from there.

The tubes and the head are a bit hot, the radiator itself is not really hot/warm. Is there a bit more ampiric way to check if the pump is working correctly ?
 
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fudgecakes99

fudgecakes99

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Well generally speaking the most "heat" would be felt at the copper heatsink. You shouldn't feel much heat on the radiator if you did that would indicate it's not dissipating it correctly. Theirs no definitive way to check if the pump is working "optimally" But i'm assuming it's doing it's job or you wouldn't have even got the 4.4ghz overclock to begin with. It seems that with that setup thats all your cpu can handle without changing to a bigger closed loop radiator or going open water loop.
 
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fudgecakes99

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Regarding running a dual loop in a water cooled build to separate gpu's and cpus. Would their really be that big of a difference if it was all running into one pump? I mean, the temperature difference from running a dual seperate loop vs a single loop shouldn't be that big right? From what i understand as soon as the temperature start to stabilize it wouldn't matter or would their still be a massive difference in temps?
 
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4Ryan6

4Ryan6

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Do not overlook the statement is in relation to reaching a 5ghz CPU overclock.

Many that argue that it doesn't matter are not reaching that level of CPU overclock that the combined GPU/CPU heat affects the higher CPU overclock plateau.

The voltage required to reach a 5ghz CPU overclock 100% stable results in a CPU load temperature that has to be independently dealt with.

These are from my own direct discoveries but you'll have to reach that level of CPU overclock to see the effect.

Conumdrum covers DeltaT here and does touch on the topic.

 
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Boris P

Boris P

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This is all fun. it was fun at least but I'm gradually becoming more n more frustrated.

I bought 70% alcohol, wiped thermal paste, applied new paste, turned out shit, wiped, reapplied, turned out fine.

I noticed I do have the thing everybody speaks about with H100i, "loose backplate" but as soon as I mount the block and screw it, it fits just fine, or at least it seems so.

I didn't find any rubber-washers in town, as the only store that probably has it, was closed.

Anyway.. launched PC.. tried firing 1.80v at 4.4ghz .. reached 82-83c.
Tried 4.3ghz with 1.5v = 74c max, 71c average. * why so high difference ?
I suspect this is really the cause of an old chip, a 2 years used chip that was overclocked for 2 years, the guy had open watercooling and seemed to know what's he doing, but who knows right ?

I guess there's no point in replacing my Corsair AF120 fans on the radiator with SP120 ?


Getting new watercooling system is out of the question, I rather get a new mobo and chip :D I've seen awesome results with H100i..

:( :( thank u guys

EDIT: I think I may have damaged something when I reseated the CPU. whenever I load the windows, every change to frequency in BIOS, doesn't stick in windows boot. additionally, it takes like 10 seconds to pass the POST Asus logo when I restart PC, wtf ??

what have I done ?
 
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Boris P

Boris P

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I figured out the 10-15 seconds pre-boot thing, it was the USB header that I plugged h100i to, I changed it, and VOiLA! I'm back to booting in a blink of an eye.

Still going gradually with the lower voltages, I'm so stubborn I will fry my cpu eventually.

Currently stress-testing: 4.5GHZ with 1.165v, but CPU-Z shows drops to 1.136v ~ probably because I forgot to set the LLC(llc?) thing to Ultra-High.
Running prime small FFT's, temps; (3rd core always the hottest) 78c max, 68c minimum.

What is the possibility I will be capable to run 4.5ghz with only 1.136v or up to 1.15v? oO
 
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fudgecakes99

fudgecakes99

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If you're having bios problems take out the cmos battery and do a hard reset. Start from scratch. Your cooler could also use those washers it should have a tight clamp onto the cpu without being too tight. Also depends on the thermal paste you're using i use arctic 5. Generic cpu thermal paste isn't bad, but meh thermal paste only costs a couple bucks why not. Keep trying to undervolt it to see if you can get a stable clock at lower volts.
 
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Boris P

Boris P

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I used a CoolerMaster Fusion 400 paste, I think it's fine.

I went up to 4.6ghz with 1.17v ~ first ten minutes the highest temp I saw was 78-79c, cores 2-3 usually get hotter than 1 and 4.

This time it was a Blend test, I went out for work, I've set 'Core Temp' to shutdown PC if temperatures exceeds 86 or 87c.

After 1 hour it reached 87c and shut down, luckily I had it logged in a file to varify how long it lasted.


I'll try to lower the voltage with 4.6ghz and see if I can get anything stable...
 
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