Well, like I said....that light is there to indicate a problem with the 5 volt rail... though as I remember an old WS build I worked on for a user, it was a blinking light that indicated an overcurrent problem. That light
should be lit even with system OFF and PSU plugged in and on.
5 volt standby power (SB PWR) is required for system to boot and is how wake on LAN, KB, Mouse, etc and stuff works. It means some USB ports get powered.
I would pursue the following:
1. Reset CMOS, set all BIOS settings to default.
2. If light is
blinking, then ... to my recollection, you have 1 of 3 possibilities:
a. You have a short somewhere (solution ... breadboard outside of case)
b. Your PSU is not delivering appropriate voltage (solution test with meter for voltage between pins 9 and 7)
c. Your board is borked.(RMA)
As for all the other LEDs, a light on means a problem. Tho, again to my recollection, this simply is telling you that you have standby power.
http://www.hardocp.com/article/2009/11/02/asus_m4a785tdv_evo_motherboard_review/
The SB_PWR LED illuminates with an active power source connected to the board.
That's an AMD board and an old one but unless the way they do things has changed, the light being on is telling you that stanbdby power is NOT your problem and that the problem lies elsewhere.
in which case, your problem lies elsewhere.
GoldKingCobra :
Can anyone just tell me what the orange light means?
Note: The X99 Sabertooth has one main 8pin CPU power and one auxiliary 4 pin, the 8pin is plugged in and the 4 pin isn't.
Just noticed this:
See page 1-34 of the manual. In my experience, these are alternate options tho some boards I have seen folks use both for severe overclocking . normally plug in just the 8 pin. However, the way this reads, to my eyes, it sounds as if they saying you need both. I'm thinking it's just poor writing tho. Then again, it doesn't say plugs (plural). I don't think it would hurt to plug both in but am 99.9% sure it's not necessary.
I would try swapping the modular cables tho.... One thing about cablemod cables is that they reduce the gauge of the wires such that if you use cable combs, the wires fall right out. I am not sure whether the wire diameter or insulation thickness was reduced but I am not comfy with either.
Understanding that you have zip tied everything down, that should still allow you to troubleshoot using the original cables ... just yank the connectors, leave the custom cables where they are and sloppy run the original cables for testing, one at a time.
Did you boot the system with the stock cooler ? Thatz a step I always take to make sure everything works before I start installing heat sinks or water blocks. As for CLCs, I am not a fan so can't help ya much there. Only all-in-one we ever use is the Swiftech H240-X