PC will not boot after attempting to fix CPU overheat. Any help appreciated!

Anthony Tedeschi

Honorable
Jan 11, 2014
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10,510
TLDR at the bottom cause this was so long.

Heya, long time reader first time I've needed to post (Have been able to use other threads to figure things out until now). Sorry if this is overly detailed, I'm new to hardware troubleshooting and I think I messed something up, so want to make sure I'm thorough and detailed.
I'll start from the beginning because I'm already about a week into troubleshooting this thing.

So I had some CPU issues (I7 2700k). It was overheating so I shut it down and took off my cooling system (One of the single pass Corsair coolers). There was some corrosion where the tubing met the motor but there was no visible leaks or fluid on the system or the cooling unit itself.
The thermal paste layer seemed really decayed so I added a new layer of thermal paste (and made sure to use one of the press methods as to not over-apply)

I booted up my PC, loaded up windows and everything looked OK for a short period of time. Still high ambient temps (Using Real temp), but still staying in range where I wouldn't see any throttling (70C), and I hadn't re-closed my case so I assumed just some airflow issues. I then noticed I hadn't connected my outer case fan, so I plugged it in to one of the 4 pin PSU connectors.

I shut the PC down to reboot. I was met with a high temp error, and my PC booted into the bios. After about 15 seconds in the bios, my system froze and I was unable to access anything on screen. I immediately flipped the power switch on the back of the PSU and pulled the power chord. I attached an old stock CPU fan, Pulled out the CMOS(?) battery on my MOBO as per all of the guides I've read on the site, discharged it/put it back in, and tried to reconnect things. The computer wouldn't boot.

I took a break for about 4 hours and started doing some heavy reading to see how I was going to tackle this. I followed Almost every step on this guide: http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-perform-steps-posting-post-boot-video-problems. I also removed the CPU and took off ALL the thermal paste (Very carefully) encase I had used too much/some had possibly spread somewhere it shouldn't have (I do not believe this happened, I was just covering all grounds).

Tried, still wouldn't boot. Disconnected all cables, tested power supply with a fan by putting the paperclip in the green/ground wires, and the fan powered on fine. Shut it all down.

Tried connecting my monitor to my onboard, and left only 1 stick of ram. Plugged in my 8 pin CPU power cable, my 24 pin cable, and unplugged case LEDS (Also connected my mobo sound thing). Tried booting the machine, to no avail. not even a flash of light.

I then read another thread that said to try booting the machine without the 8 pin CPU power cable. So at this point I only have my fan, my monitor, and my 24 ping mobo cable plugged in. After doing this the power button actually started working.
I get a quick flash of the fan, then after 2 revolutions the system shuts back down.

My next step was going to be to replace the CMOS(CMOD?) battery on the mobo. I don't know what step to take next.

TLDR OF WHATS HAPPENED:



  • CPU overheat
    Replaced thermal paste
    PC crash after running at more stable temps. Computer no longer responds to power button.
    Replace Corsair liquid cooler with stock CPU fan encase bad cooler. Still unresponsive.
    Tested PSU with paper clip. fan and fan LED ran fine.
    Reconnected only core devices (CPU fan, CPU/Mobo power, Monitor in onboard) Power button still unresponsive.
    Same as above, but with a disconnected CPU power cable. PC gets power when I hit the power button, but only for 2 seconds then shuts down.
    Don't know what to do next other than replace the ?CMOD/CMOS? battery (I don't remember the name but you know what battery I mean)

I'm guessing I fried my CPU? I've looked at all my capacitors and checked badcapacitor.net but none look like they have gone bad. New to hardware TTS, so I don't even know where to go from here. Buy a new PSU before CPU? Buy new CPU? ERMAGERD

Specs:

PSU: XFX PRO 850w
CPU: Intel I7 2700k ((+10%OC))
MOBO: Asus P8Z6-V LX
RAM: 2xGB Gskill Ripjaw
 

NerdIT

Distinguished
Hey there Anthony,

In my professional experience, 99.9% of the time it is the board that gets fried -not the CPU. I've been working on/with computers for a long time and can count how many times I've had a bad chip on a hand maybe two..!.

I would put my money on the PSU and/or the Mobo.

You need to test your PSU on another board/system to make sure it is pushing solid...the paper clip test doesn't really cut it, and it doesn't tell you anything about your 12v rail, which is vital for CPU stability.

PSU testers that give you a digital readout are fairly cheap ~$20-30 -I would suggest grabbing one or testing it on another system to rule that out.

After that I would verify your that your RAM works. But honestly it sounds like you have a fired motherboard.
 

Anthony Tedeschi

Honorable
Jan 11, 2014
8
0
10,510


Thank you very much for the quick reply.

I have a second machine in my home that is literally a stock dell with nothing added side from a graphics card. Should I try the PSU in that system, or would I be better off testing it in a machine that uses similar power to mine? (The machine I would be testing the PSU on is literally 10 years or so old, running off an old dual core CPU.

Is it possible that a bad CMOS would cause the motherboard to short the power in the manner I described above? Basically I'm just wondering If trying the power supply in another rig does work, should I replace the CMOS battery before replacing the motherboard?

Thank you again!
 

NerdIT

Distinguished
Hey sorry for late response,

The CMOS battery COULD be the problem, however that is more rare to see nowadays, they are cheap as dirt so its worth a try!.

It's not really "advisable" to take a PSU that is possibly malfunctioning and try it on another machine because if it is pushing/leaking to much power it could fry the other system -although I doubt that would happen, and if you don't care much about the old system then I would try it.

If its an older board it will probably only need the main 24pin cable... If that boots up and stays on...then as I suspected you board is fried :(.

CPU's rarely fry unless you do some EXTREME overclocking -even then usually the mobo or PSU will have a fail-safe and/or take the bite instead of the chip.