Windows 10 based desktop will not stay on for more than 5 seconds before shutting itself off.

RoninDarkFox

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Nov 17, 2015
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Hello everyone. Im currently in the process of upgrading my Gaming rig. I got the new AMD Fury air cooled video card to replace my Nvidia GeForce GTX 780 air cooled video card.

I switched the two of them and started up the system same as i did when i put the gtx 780 in the system initially. Then once it got to the desktop i installed the AMD drivers for my now windows 10 system. (originally win7 pro, now win 10 pro) proceeded to uninstall the nvidia driver after rebooting the system and then thats when things start to act strange.

My computer slows down dramatically and BSOD 's and shuts down. Now i reinstall the nvidia drivers in a hope to re-stablise the machine, and i switch the video cards back. But strangely the computer still proceeds to force itself to shut down after about 50 seconds -1 minute.

From here i figure out that my new video card had a much higher wattage requirement than the old one and was more than my psu could handle. so it was recommended by a friend that i replace the psu with a stronger one to start with so i got a 1600 watt psu just to make sure that wouldn't be an issue again. (upgrading from a 850watt psu) Also as a precaution i bought a new motherboard and separate cpu and cooler, in-case when i killed my previous psu i might of damaged the other components.

So once i got everything put together in the case i started it up and this time it gives me three red lights on the motherboard that i haven't seen before, so i don't know what they mean when they flash certain colors. (my previous motherboard really didn't have any obvious lights that i noticed.)
The ram one quickly flashes first then the CPU one and then the one labeled VGA which i don't have any VGA port on the computer so i assume its referring to the video card. After the VGA light flashes the ram one flashes on and stays on for a second or two and then the load lights on my video card all light up and then the computer shuts itself off. Now there was no display coming up on my tv i use as a monitor. The motherboard boot screen before windows usually loads didn't even show.

So i look around on the internet and some say to try and reseat the CPU and see what that does. i do that and nothing changes. Another says to reseat each ram stick in each slot individually (i have 4-8GB 1866mhz sticks), i try that and still nothing changes. So at this point im thinking maybe the motherboard is defective so i send it back and get a replacement. Also
Code:
ive
tried all of this without attaching the CPU cooler yet.

I have a local computer tech look at it and he after checking all the connections and helping attaching the CPU cooler for the first time sense the new components have been put in. Starts it up and gets the exact results i have. He does eventually get the video card recognized with a AMD splash screen appearing but still no motherboard or bios screen. This all has been done while im away so i had to take his word for it. I get it back home after he could do no more with it. and i started it up trying to see if i could get the same AMD splash screen he was mentioning and nothing.

So at this point im at a loss for what to do and what could be the issue. Any help or suggestions that haven't already been stated above would be welcome. i just want this thing to get to the desktop and stay on. I plan to re flash the hard drives and do a fresh install of windows and the most recent AMD cataylist win 10 drivers as of about a week ago via USB thumb drive. i plan to boot from an AMD 240gb ssd and store and run all my games from my 4TB HDD.

Thanks for any help and looking forward hearing from you all.


Links to my parts below for reference:

Power Adapter for Video Card
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812423175

Motherboard
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131877

CPU Cooler
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186134

CPU
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819113347

Power supply
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817494006

Graphics Card/Video Card
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814202157

Case
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B1R8JT0?colid=19D60T7EXA8IC&coliid=I182P2N43XV1KB&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl

SSD
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820228119&cm_re=amd_ssd-_-20-228-119-_-Product

HDD
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA7WM39S9769&cm_re=4tb_internal_hard_drive-_-22-236-622-_-Product

TV Display
http://www.walmart.com/ip/VIZIO-M50-C1-50-4K-Ultra-HD-2160p-Class-LED-Smart-HDTV-4K-x-2K/43310255

HDMI cabling used to connect to TV
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/monster-gold-series-9-in-wall-hdmi-a-v-cable-gray/9907014.p?id=1219043716433&skuId=9907014
 

Mark_1970

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Nov 14, 2015
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Why do you have a psu pcie cable splitter in your parts list when psu does not need it and do you use it?
 

Alex192

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have you cross referenced the light on the board with the manual that came with it. Also maybe a BIOS problem though i doubt that. check if there is any bios updates for vishera cpu compatibility
 

RoninDarkFox

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The Graphics card powercable pins are a specific shape and order. I could not get any of them to fit the video card exactly and i had an adapter from when i had the gtx 780 installed and it worked but unfortunately none of the native cords matched the layout that the graphics card had. so thats why i got the splitter because it oddly seem to match exactly
 

RoninDarkFox

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Nov 17, 2015
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i looked in the manual for the lights and they are the post status lights. it says that "if an error is found the critical components LED's will stay on till the problem is solved." The confusing thing is they flash but except for the ram LED at the end of the sequence i explained above in my original post, they all just flash on and off and don't all stay constantly on at the same time like the manual says if there were an error.

Thank you though for directing me there because i didn't know what they were called exactly when i put everything together.
 

RoninDarkFox

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Nov 17, 2015
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Update: After letting it set overnight i tried starting it up and it got to the motherboard boot screen and then it went to windows recovery screen which got me excited. It sat there for about 3 seconds and then shut off. So i tried again and this time it got to the motherboard screen andi hit delete key triying to get into bios and it just shuts off again. i call a tech savvy friend of mine and he suggests resetting the cmos battery so i do and doesn't seem to change anything. He then suggests something ive tried before "just trying one stick of ram in slot one" which unfortunately i can't because of how big the heatsink fan is for my cpu cooler. So i try it in the other three and it doesn't change anything. So he and i agree there is alot of potential variables and he normally doesn't build gaming rigs so he hasn't worked on very complicated systems before. One final thing we are trying is to just let the whole system cool off and i try it again later tonight.
 

RoninDarkFox

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Nov 17, 2015
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Well i tried it again tonight and i got it to go into bios for about 5-6 seconds and then it shut off again. and then i couldn't get back there again when i tried again one more time. it didn't stay on long enough for it to get into bios eventhough i pressed the delete key like the first time. So frustrated because im not sure what single component is bad if its just one. I have a hunch it may be the CPU, but i don't have another working one to try in its place to be sure at this point.
 

Mark_1970

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The pcie cables on psu don't fit your graphics plugs, are you sure you are doing it right? a splitter is taking all the power from one rail, this could trip the psu into overload/shut-down/ instability. I would begin with rectifying this just maybe you are trying to plug the cpu/ram 8 pins to graphics rather than a pcie, . some error with psu install maybe. that psu has 2x 8 pin cpu/ram power plugs that do resemble pcie plugs. it also has 10 x pcie 6+2 pins, so if you need a 8 pin you bundle the two wires with the six to make a 8 pin, refer to your psu manual . But that psu also has 4 rails and if the mobo power cables that use rails 1&2 get loaded with powering graphics or more on those same rails that shuts down psu too due to overload, care must be taken to distribute components onto different rails as to not overload. Rails 3 or 4 are 30A and thats the rails wanted to run graphics as the others are a bit low. the 30a rail used should not power anything else

I guarantee your 10 pcie plugs all fit your 2 plugs on your graphics if placed correct

 

RoninDarkFox

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Nov 17, 2015
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Thanks for the reply. I see what your saying and i went ahead and switched out the adapters (cause i have two, and 8-pin to two 6-pin. And the spliter mentioned above) for two 6+2 pin cables coming from separate outlets on the power supply and from the red color coded area which by the pictures on the page says GPU, so i assume thats what they are meant to be connected to. Well after having it sit idle for several hours and starting it up. it booted all the way to the windows recovery screen and appeared to go even further. But then it thought for awhile in a pure blueish black screen after that and then shut off again and then on two more tries i was only able to get the motherboard boot screen to come up where you can press f2 or delete to get into different bios.
 

Mark_1970

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Yep if i understand correctly you are still using those adapters/splitters when your psu should only use the supplied pcie cables on the psu, they are standard pcie and Will fit without those splitters. your not getting confused with the 2x eps 8 pin and 10 x 8 pin pcie. one EPS 8 pins used on motherboard near cpu and two pcie to the graphics card. those pcie can be used as 6 pin only or as a 8 pin plug by taking the two and slide in a groove on the 6 pin side then inserting.into the plug of graphics card, can only insert one way round.
Sometimes i wish i could just come over and look myself

So you say" I have a local computer tech look at it" meaning a pc store or such very experienced and they could not fire it up? May have to except either a part came not working or your initial tampering somehow fried it, I mean if a pro cant make it work? then maybe it just dont
 

RoninDarkFox

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Nov 17, 2015
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Update: took it to another computer shop after the first one couldn't fix it. The second one sounded like they knew more about what they were doing than the first and within a weekend they had found that the CPU cooler was not seated correctly. (The first tech put it on the cpu, not myself.) This apparently contributed to the motherboard going bad and also the main tech at the second store told me that i needed a beefier cpu cooler because the one i had was not cooling the cpu enough and that the heat generated was just sitting there. So he told me in addition to that to get a couple more case fans to help pull the hot air out and to replace the motherboard. (which i've already done once) After doing all that i should be good to go. he also got it to POST, which it wasn't successfully doing before. So once i get the motherboard back and get it all put back together and fire it up and cross my fingers it all goes well. ( like they said it would).
 

RoninDarkFox

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Nov 17, 2015
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ok, sorry didn't notice that. its changed to the correct one as of the time of posting original message.

I agree after doing some test and having the second local repair shop mentioned above look at it.(they told me about the possible issue) Heres the new one im getting to replace it:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181060

and then these to help with more air flow:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608026