Power Supply Problem

Computers Taste Like Metal · Nov 22, 2015

Ok. This has been problem after problem for me.

I had an issue where my PSU was ticking. it heard like it was coming from the cord plugin area.

After much time my brother told me he somehow in his stupidity has SWAPPED cords.

I have a 2008 dell desktop that is around
400 dollars. Not even anywhere close to powerful.

My PC is a beast, and has an EVGA 750 watt PSU.

So, that probably 125v cord has been in my PSU for a week.

And I'm sure that's why it is ticking.

He probably has been killing my PC.

So, then, I realize, I have about 5 of these cords in my house, you know, the kind that PSUs use. A bunch of different ones, most say 300v on the cord.

How the hell do I know which one is the one I should be using? Can I buy a cord online for my PSU?

thx1138v2 · Nov 22, 2015

Stamped on the plug that goes into the PSU there should be some numbers followed by letters. 125 V means it is rated for no more than 125 Volts. 10 A means that the wire inside the cord will only handle up to 10 Amperes of current.

The voltage rating applies to the power grid system you are on. In the U.S. the grid is 120 Volts so a 125 V cord is fine if you are in the U.S. Otherwise, you need a rating above whatever your local grid Volatge is.

To get the Watts multiply the Volts times the Amperes. So the example above would be 125 V times 10 A or 1250 Watts. That's the power rating for the cord. You could, for example, have a cord rated for 350 Volts but only 1 Ampere which would be only 350 Watts.

So what you want is the cord with the highest Watt capacity (Volts times Amperes).

Note that the calculations above are just generalizations and actual power figures get quite a bit more complicated. Also note that the Watts calculated above have nothing to do with the PSU power rating. The PSU power rating, 750 Watts in your example, is the maximum output of the PSU. It will always require more than that as input.

4745454b · Nov 22, 2015

Cords are nearly all the same. The only difference would be the gauge of the wiring. And even if were drawing ~900W to provide a full 750W, the smaller diameter cords should be ok. You only need to worry about 18 gauge cords above 1.5kW or so.

Ticking sounds remind me of something hitting the fan. It is possible for something electrical failing however. If its under warranty I'd send it back. if it's not under warranty then I'd open it and LOOK (no touch.) for things hitting the fan or a part that looks like it's breaking.

Shaun o · Nov 22, 2015

The rating you see printed along the cable is put there for as you know how much voltage the wires can handel, and the amount of amps also flowing through the copper cable also.

If you look a bit harder you will also see a AWG value That relates based on the number how many copper strands are used to make up each wire of the cable.

The higher the AWG number the more strands of induvidual copper lengths are used, that relates to how much current, and amp age each wire can handle in voltage and amp load.

Before the copper core melts.

So as long as you choose a cable with a higher AWG value rating the safer you will be.

4745454b · Nov 22, 2015

The higher the AWG number the more strands of induvidual copper lengths are used

Incorrect. A 4gauge wire is thicker then a 28gauge wire. The lower the number, the thicker the wire, the more current it can handle. It also don't have to be a stranded wire, it can be a single wire.

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