What parts and etc I will need to get started on a real cooling system

Motherboard model is going to be extremely important here, so I'd suggest you look on the motherboard itself and find the model number. There are only a very few motherboards that should be used with the FX 9xxx series processors, but unfortunately some dipshit prebuilt system vendors like CyberpowerPC and IbuyPowerPC, or unknowledgeable system builders, use inferior boards not recommended for use with these chips and VRM overheating is a big problem.

Single fan liquid coolers are also NOT sufficient for keeping these heat monsters cool. You need either one of the top end tower air coolers, or, at minimum, a 240mm all in one liquid cooler. A 280mm liquid cooler is highly recommended.

I'm going to assume you got this through Ibuypower PC, since AZZA does not list the Atlas case on their website and it is most likely available only through Ibuypower on their prebuilt systems. I'm also highly skeptical that it has support for larger than 140mm radiators, which are not suitable for keeping the 9590 cool enough. I'd suggest you are probably going to need a new case and at minimum a 240mm AIO cooler like the Cooler Master Nepton 240m or Corsair H105.

Furthermore, it's probable that another motherboard may be indicated as I know for a fact that Ibuypower has been pairing the FX-9590 with motherboards that should never have been used with it, due to poor thermal qualities. I'd also want some terrific case fan cooling with that processor, and so almost certainly you want every possible fan location on whatever case is used, to be utilized. Make certain that front, side and bottom fans are bringing air into the case in an intake configuration, and that top and rear fans are configured as exhaust, expelling heat from the case.

Finding a product page for your case model, somewhere, would be very helpful in determining if any of this is going to be possible using that case or not, and knowing what your motherboard model number is, is absolutely essential.

This is exactly why we do NOT recommend buying systems from IbuypowerPC and CyberpowerPC.

http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2869275/1300-premade.html

I'd probably do something like this. Put the radiator in the front in an intake configuration so the coolest air will pass through the radiator, and will still allow you to use the top fans as exhaust in order to disperse heat from the hottest area, which is always the top of the case. Move the fans that come preinstalled in front of the case, to the top, to use as exhaust. Rear fan comes preinstalled. You may even be able to use the extra third fan that comes preinstalled in front along with the radiator mounted there, but I doubt it. You might consider modifying the side panel to accept a fan there, if you're inclined to do modifications, so you can create an additional intake there that will blow directly down on the GPU card and motherboard VRMs.

Not essential, but an idea anyhow. You could also rig a smaller 80mm fan with a custom bracket to blow directly onto the motherboard VRM area, but again, while this WILL help, if you're not comfortable with it it's not strictly necessary. If you stick with your current motherboard, I'd highly suggest possibly doing something like this and if you google motherboard VRM custom cooling you'll likely find lots of ideas on how to do this.

If you can't swing all three parts, I'd definitely at least go with the case and cooler. If you prefer an air cooler, I'd go with something like the Noctua NH-D14, D15, Cryorig R1 Ultimate or Universal, Phanteks PH-tc14pe or Thermalright Silver arrow IBE extreme.


PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Nepton 280L 122.5 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 ATX AM3+ Motherboard ($160.85 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: NZXT H440 (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case ($98.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $359.83
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-11-29 16:02 EST-0500

Water/humidity, like occurs via refrigeration or evaporative cooling, is bad. You don't want to do that, at all. We have example threads with big FAILs to exemplify this, all across tech sites. Don't do it. That's my advice on that.

Removing the side panel will help somewhat, but even then you will get no airflow OVER the motherboard in the same way you do when you create an air draft via an intake and exhaust path, which is what helps to cool the motherboard VRMs in situations where there is liquid cooling being used and no residual air movement over the motherboard since no CPU air cooler is installed. But so long as you have top and rear fans in exhaust configurations, it can't hurt as a temporary measure, so I'd do it if you can keep stuff out of the case, and only as a temporary measure.

It will also not help much with CPU cooling, as all heat exchange will occur via the radiator, so those fans are pretty much entirely responsible for that. If your radiator is a rear mounted exhaust configuration, there may be some benefit to the CPU since it will likely have cooler air to work with, but the trade off probably nets little benefit to the VRMs which is where the majority of throttling problems on lower quality boards happens using the 9xxx series chips.

I think I'd probably recommend getting a air cooler over using water since the airflow across the motherboard, even though it's somewhat miminal on a tower cooler versus a top-down stock style cooler, is quite helpful. I don't know, that's up to you but I think if I was stuck with using that motherboard I'd switch to air.

The problem with your small liquid cooler is that it doesn't have the volume capacity to exchange heat, plus it offers no cooling to the motherboard VRMs. Putting it by an AC unit probably is next to useless and potentially even harmful.

Honestly, I think you're trying to find a redneck solution, no offense, that really doesn't exist. These processors are problematic. Like I said before, I think I'd probably just UNDERCLOCK the CPU, by limiting it's maximum clock speed in the BIOS, which will reduce it's temperatures and voltage stress on the VRMs until you can afford or have time to provide a proper solution.


VRMs and throttling explained: http://www.overclock.net/t/943109/about-vrms-mosfets-motherboard-safety-with-125w-tdp-processors



Some things you can try: http://www.overclock.net/t/1202751/amd-fx-cpu-throttling-fixes-please-sticky

I guess if it works. I've seen worse, but imagine your power bill is going to reflect it as well. Good luck with that, hope it does the trick. I'd be careful though.

Whatever you do, don't spill your drink or laugh and spit any water ANYWHERE near the floor while that's running, or it's game over. Everything inside the case will be done had it!