Need some assistance understanding online PSU calculators and choosing my PSU specs

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Maze88

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Nov 27, 2015
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Hey, I am building a new PC; and am at the stage of selecting an appropriate PSU.

This is my current build plan, in addition I'll probably stick in my previous 500GB HDD (can't remember it's RPM, but we'll assume 7200), and sometimes plug in things like a USB based phone charger.

1) I see most decent PSUs are certified 80+ (bronze..gold..etc.). Am I right to believe the efficiency differences between them are not going to make a significant difference (>$10/yr) in a power bill, even in the long-run, assuming standard gaming and use? if so is it fine to go for a model with a bronze (or even standard) 80+ certificate, from a reputable brand?

2) I am using an online PSU calculator to determine the Wattage I need; which give results such as Load Wattage along with Recommended Wattage. I'm trying to understand if these values take into consideration PSU efficiency.

3) How much additional headroom of Wattage should I get, assuming in the future I may OC, add a storage device, or possibly get a new graphics card or CPU?
 
Solution
Barty1884
PCPartPicker is fairly accurate - displaying a "max" load. So in your case 372W
There's more to a PSU that 80%/Bronze etc. See http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2547993/psu-tier-list.html

1. You want a minimum of Bronze. Minimal power bill impact at the lower PSU Watts. For example, a 500W PSU at 80% will pull 625W at max load. If you had a 1500W PSU for example, that'd be pulling near 1900W. That could impact a utility bill significantly.

2. A lot of PSU calculators will not factor in certifications, simply because there are so many poor quality units out there. PCPartPicker is pretty accurate though.

3. Generally you want about 20% headroom to allow for overclocking. It's near impossible to suggest a PSU for a new GPU...
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Barty1884

Barty1884

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Apr 16, 2015
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PCPartPicker is fairly accurate - displaying a "max" load. So in your case 372W
There's more to a PSU that 80%/Bronze etc. See http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2547993/psu-tier-list.html

1. You want a minimum of Bronze. Minimal power bill impact at the lower PSU Watts. For example, a 500W PSU at 80% will pull 625W at max load. If you had a 1500W PSU for example, that'd be pulling near 1900W. That could impact a utility bill significantly.

2. A lot of PSU calculators will not factor in certifications, simply because there are so many poor quality units out there. PCPartPicker is pretty accurate though.

3. Generally you want about 20% headroom to allow for overclocking. It's near impossible to suggest a PSU for a new GPU, as that entirely depends on what you look for (although CrossFire is easy to tell - at least another 200W).

So, as a rough guess. 372W + another 200W (to allow CF) + 20% headroom = 686W.
So, my suggestion(s) would be: If you plan to CrossFire in future, 650W to 750W (quality units though).
If you just want a unit for now, 500W is more than adequate.

Read the Tier list though, you want quality units (Tier 1 or 2)
With all this being said, the SuperNOVA B2 750W is on sale at the moment for $56.99 - You can't go wrong there at all. More than enough headroom, and will allow upgrades in future.
http://pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-power-supply-110b20750vr

Don't worry, a PSU will only pull what it needs from the wall (ie it's not pulling 750W if your build only needs 372W. At rare maximum load it will pull around 465W)
 
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Solution
M

Maze88

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Nov 27, 2015
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Thank you for the detailed answers; I don't intend to do Crossfire or SLI, and have decided to go for the SeaSonic 620W 80+ Bronze M12II EVO in the end.

If anyone can show just cause why this PSU cannot be joined ideally in my PC build, let them speak now or forever hold their peace (you have four days, until I go to the shop!).
 
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Barty1884

Barty1884

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Apr 16, 2015
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There's absolutely no reason not to go for that PSU - it'll work just fine.
I'm assuming you've checked prices etc & it's the best priced, high quality, readily available unit for you.

When I follow that link, it takes me to Canadian Amazon (it might be because I'm in Canada, and not where you actually set the link up), if you're in Canada - what local shop are you heading to?
 
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Barty1884

Barty1884

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Apr 16, 2015
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Ah, ok then. Then I won't be able to help you find the same quality for cheaper (comparing the price of the unit you linked seemed expensive). As long as you stick to Tier 1 or 2 you'll be fine, and the one you picked out is a solid unit.
 
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