Build Log: Modding Prebuilt PCs: Example: Dell T20/ Optiplex 9020/ Precision T1700

sr2002

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May 19, 2009
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(I don't know if this is the best forum category to post this thread. Admins please move it if you think its needs to be in another forum)

I thought I would post log of the excessive modding that I did to my Dell T20 in the hopes that it would help other who are thinking of buy/modding these prebuilt systems:

(I know, I would have been better off building my own PC. But the thing is I originally bought this with the Xeon E3-1225v3, which for approx. 300$ was a steal. But then I got bitten by the DIY bug and wanted more powah!! so kept on buying parts as I could and here I am with spare parts enough to do a second build. Hopefully my journey helps others out who might be in a similar situation)


Upgrade list:
1) PSU: EVGA SuperNova 550 GS
2) GPU: EVGA GTX 970 SSC
3) Cooling: NZXT Kraken/ Cryorig H7
4) Thermaltake 120mm ring LED fan
5) Processor: i7-4790k
6) Wifi: Asus PC-AC56
7) Red LED strips

What you will require for upgrades:
1) ModDIY Dell motherboard adapter for ATX PSU
2) Dell 5-pin fan header to 4-pin adapter
3) NZXT Kraken Watercooling installation standoffs (these are the ones that fit in the stock backplate)

With the above listed components and upgrade parts, you should be able to install any after market GPU as well as some specific cooling solutions.

Cooling:
1) Cooler Master EVO 212: This heatsink should install on the stock backplate, but is 160mm tall and does not let you shut the side panel.
2) Coolers that should fit: any coolers shorter than 150mm. Cryorig H7 is the largest one I could find that will fit this case. However in order install it, you will need the standoffs (fortunately I had the ones from my Kraken x31) that will fit the stock motherboard backplate threads.

GPU:
1) Any GPUs shorter than 10.5inches will fit with the hard drive cage installed.
2) for longer GPUs, the hard drive cage has to be removed. You will need a drill and metal compatible drill bits to drill out all the visible rivets that hold the cage. The rivets on the back are inaccessible as the righ panel cannot be removed. Don't hesitate the pull hard and rock the cage to dislodge it from the back rivets. Removing the drive cage will also open up space to install a front mounted 140mm radiator (refer to the pictures).

How they try to keep you from modding:

These motherboards come with non standard power plugs (ModDIY solution works)
They have a bunch of sensors in fans as well as in the chasis that the BIOS checks for at startup. So if you change something you may face errors on startup and might be forced to run diagnostics. But dont worry as the above mentioned parts worked for me and the diagnostics only bothers you the first time when you install them.

They use pre-threaded metal back plate that also has threads to hold the CPU locking bracket. So if you try to replace the backplate, you will have no place to thread the cpu clips. Also, since the backplate also has integrated threads for heatsink mounting, only certain brands of cooling kits will readily fit those threads. The ones mentioned above work fine.

Here are the pictures:
Initial stock condition:
IMG_0571.JPG


The connectors
IMG_0569.JPG


Video card clearance 10.5inch
IMG_0583.JPG


With the NZXT Kraken x31 in Push-Pull (which I had to remove because the case construction has very weird airflow and the kraken was just not performing well enough. Will be salving this AIO for the G10 NZXT GPU cooling kit later on):
12239235_10206521017318881_729267322186610453_o.jpg


Motherboard removed for installing Cryorig H7 Cooler (most tedious job ever):
10557486_10206825067959957_8504383766599839567_o.jpg


What it finally looks like:
12492027_10206825067919956_1627749556449911248_o.jpg


Conclusion:
In spite of all the anti-mod sentiment that people have with these prebuilt machines, there is always a way to work around. I hope my experience helps others.


Please leave comments if you guys want to hear about any diagnostics or system performance before/ after these mods. [/img]

Mod edit: Sorry but we don't allow self promotion
 

sr2002

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May 19, 2009
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I do this because I love modding and PC builds are my passion. Plus like I mentioned the I got the whole box for 300$ shipped, the xeon alone costs 220$ ish. So I initially bough that and I kept on modding as my wallet permitted.

But now its at a point where I'll basically be doing a separate build, all I gotta do is buy a motherboard and a case. The plan is to turn this T20 back into a server for my homelab and use these parts on my next build.

As for performance, I'm getting turbo boost on the 4790k upto 4.36Ghz with idle temps at 32-40C. Temps with intel XTU stress test running for 20min it never went above 70C
GPU Idle temps: 44-50C. GPU boosts up to 1495Mhz@ about 80-82C (which is a little high but, this case is not very wide to permit ventilation on the sides)

Over all the mods did help with the performance. Just replacing the stock power supply helped me on-board iGPU and CPU sustained clock speed. My R15 benchmarks improved too.

I know that no one will mod these things to this extent, but even if they want to just upgrade the PSU or want to know which After market cooler works, then refer to this thread and hopefully get some pointers.
 

ccclandshark1

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Jan 17, 2016
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Upgrading my Dell 7020 with same psu. I've got the mod adapter to power the motherboard with the 24 pin ATX plug. Should I unplug the SATA power that originally came from the motherboard, and connect instead to the SATA cables coming directly from the PSU?
 

sr2002

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May 19, 2009
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You can leave it on if you want. But I would suggest removing the sata power and instead sourcing it directly from the new PSU. I did it just to take the load off the internal power circuitry, the lesser current it has to push the better.
 

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