Water-Cooling Noob here :/

cpauler0897

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Feb 28, 2013
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Hello, I'm currently thinking about my a water-cooled build, but I haveno clue what parts are compatible with other parts. I would love to do a custom loop. I've been watching several tutorials so I just went on several water-cooling sites, and picked out some items with a little knowledge on what to look for.

I know I want my custom loop to be soft-tubing. I don't trust myself with PETG, or hardline tubing, for my first time.

These are the components:
PC Upgrades
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CASE: Phanteks Enthoo Primo Aluminum ATX - Black ($249.99)
PH-ES813P_BL

(I'm still changing my mind on the case. If anyone has a a suggestion between the Phanteks Enthoo Primo or the Fractal Define R5, please let me know.)

CPU BLOCK: XSPC Raystorm CPU Block - Blue ($54.99)
RADIATOR: XSPC EX240 2 x 120mm, Dual 120mm Low Profile Split Fin Copper Radiator - Black ($49.99)
TUBING: Tygon B-44-3 PVC Beverage Tubing, 3/8" ID, 1/2" OD, 1/16" Wall, 10' Length, Clear ($24.55)
RESERVIOR: EK-RES X3 250 ($62.99)
FITTINGS: EK-ACF Fitting 10/13mm - Black ($6.49/piece)
COOLANT: EK-Ekoolant EVO UV BLUE (premix 1L) ($16.99)
PUMP: EK-DDC 3.2 PWM (12V PWM pump) ($75.99)
 
Solution
Well looking it up, it seems XSPC doesn't make the reservoir pump combo the same anymorehttp://shop.xs-pc.com/xsp/XSPC-Acrylic-Dual-525-Reservoir-for-Laing-D5_25433.html (old design) Now it looks like they have it threaded from outside to avoid unnecessary force. So unless you get the old design I cannot say what is good anymore. I just avoid those.

I haven't heard of too many other cons in dye fluids besides cost since you have to switch out the fluids ideally every 6 months and some brands have been known to part out so the liquid is split from the dye and it gets icky. Maybe because people left it in the loop for so long? not sure really....

You can however spot a leak really EASY with dye :)

iamacow

Admirable
First off Phantek makes amazing cases and are easy to mod. Mod and Watercoling friendly for the whole Enthoo series). Fractal Design is cheaper, but not nearly as good.

If you are just cooling the CPU, honestly I would just get an AIO (All in one) cooler and call it a day. They have come a looooong way since the Corsair H50. So much cheaper and hassle free for about 3 years (than it dyes out or pump dies). Only reason to go full blown water cooling now is if you have a video card and or you just want something that look very cool (when done right).
 

cpauler0897

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Feb 28, 2013
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Thanks for the input on the case. I'm pretty much set on the Phanteks, but then I'll set a water-cooled R5 thinking it would work plus the case is cheaper.

My computer, right now, has an AIO in it (Corsair H100i Extreme Performance). I want to do a custom loop for looks pretty much :p I've always wanted to try it out, and honestly give me another project to look forward to. I'll definitely consider add my GPUs to the loop for sure. I want to see how the build would come together with just the CPU first, since GPU blocks cost an insane amount.
 

garrett1986

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Jun 8, 2010
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18,660
best cpu block out there period. i recommend this because you can always go and get another rad to throw in the loop, but once you have already gone and spent $60-$80 for a cpu block you best make sure to get a really good one.

https://shop.ekwb.com/water-blocks/cpu-blocks/supremacy-evo?dir=asc&order=price

as for rads, get what you like most 240mm rads will suffice, going more expensive is mostly bling, lots of channels are good, full copper construction is nice, fins per inch should be as dense as reasonable.

do not use an aluminum radiator ever. do not use any aluminum in your loop at all. really you will thank yourself for it later.

also make sure to get some good static pressure fans with very little space between the blades (vs a faster/more cfm fan with thing blades)

pump, make sure its a good one, last thing you want is a pump to die after a month.

always, always run a single metal in your circuit, you can mix copper and nickel sometimes (depends on the nickel), you can mix copper and brass as well. the very last thing you want is galvanic corrosion.

remember even tho barbed fittings aren't the prettiest they really are the most dependable, most quick disconnects and adjustable fittings are just a hazard waiting to happen.

absolute best coolant you can use is straight up distilled de-ionized water with unmixed automotive antifreeze 70% water 30% antifreeze.

water is the best fluid to use because of its thermal properties, the purest water possible keeps contaminants out of the system. automotive antifreeze will kill anything trying to live in your loop, will lubricate your pump and prevent corrosion.

you can go as low as 80% water and 20% coolant for slightly better temps but the 70/30 mix should prevent any corrosion for the lifetime of your loop.

do not use dyes or silver coils, you specifically do not need to use a silver coil if you are running a full copper loop (copper is a biocide).

all dyes over time will break down, clot up, depreciate your cooling performance or otherwise "expire" because of the heating/cooling. some dyes may last years, some weeks but ALL dyes will eventually break down. pure water and automotive antifreeze will only need flushing/refilling every 5 years or so.
 

cpauler0897

Honorable
Feb 28, 2013
35
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10,530


I was looking at that CPU Bloc, but was really unsure about if one is better than the other, so i picked the XSPC for looks. I'll definitely change the block.

For rads, i was going to get a 240mm for the top of the case, then if I feel like adding the GPUs, put a 360 or 480 rad at the bottom.

Pumps are one of the main things I'm confusing about. I know its just a pump and spend a good amount of money on it because its the heart of the loop, but is there any benefit from getting the pump that attaches to the bottom of the reservoir or should you get a separate pump and stick it out of sight, out of mind?

How are compressions compared to barbed fittings? After seeing how barbed fittings work, they do look more reliable than any of the fancier types of fittings. Its, just, that I don't want to have to zip tie every connection and just rely on the compression fitting doing what the barbed and zip tie would essentially do.

Out of everything I've read or watched, only one video commented on Anti-freeze mix. Would the anti-freeze route be more beneficial than adding a specific anti-growth agent?

Dye is one thing I was on the fence for. I was love to use a dye... Only because my build right now is black and blue so it would really tie everything together. I was going to use Dis-stilled water over a pastel coolant, because I really didn't want to have to flush everything so soon.

 

iamacow

Admirable
I would avoid dye just because it will stain everything and it does not come off. I just been using distilled water over the years with a silver coil to avoid ick from growing.

I've used Barbs and Compression fittings, both are good, barbs sounds like its better but unless you really clamp it down, it can leak. Compression can leak easier I think, but the chances are just as low if you use the right compression for the tube.

For the pump, i've used it all and my worst experiences so far has been the bay pump/rez. I had all 3 crack and leak from the vibrations of normal use. So I just use the pump and rez separate. it sticks out, but no leaking issues.

Lastly the BEST block out currently is the Heatkiller 4 PRO. Its nearly $100 but damn does it cool well.
 

cpauler0897

Honorable
Feb 28, 2013
35
0
10,530


As for the dye, I'm not going to be inter-changing tubing or chaning the color of my build so staining isn't an issue for me. Are the any other cons about using dye?

As for the pump, that helped out my choice. I didn't think of the vibration on the reservoir.


 

iamacow

Admirable
Well looking it up, it seems XSPC doesn't make the reservoir pump combo the same anymorehttp://shop.xs-pc.com/xsp/XSPC-Acrylic-Dual-525-Reservoir-for-Laing-D5_25433.html (old design) Now it looks like they have it threaded from outside to avoid unnecessary force. So unless you get the old design I cannot say what is good anymore. I just avoid those.

I haven't heard of too many other cons in dye fluids besides cost since you have to switch out the fluids ideally every 6 months and some brands have been known to part out so the liquid is split from the dye and it gets icky. Maybe because people left it in the loop for so long? not sure really....

You can however spot a leak really EASY with dye :)
 
Solution